that's why old people don't enter a night club anymore. they get cataracts

You are right. BUT I switched 5inch below that in favor of an OLED panel, with Ambilight. Without Ambilight I would never feel comfortable to switch to a smaller panel. It's been about 4 years since I'm in love with Ambilight and still am.

No, I think it was on 'normal', (standard) whatever that is. I had to lower the overall video brightness to get display light ok (not recorded HRD). BUT, I do use the Game mode lately. I've changed the place(hence walls paint) and now is all white all around and the reflections are waaay more obvious so I had to switch to Game and use lower brightness to keep it "AMBIENT" not "OBTRUSION" :D

You know?! My video predates this trend. This means I really need to do a remake now.. Thanks for the reminder 😂

Sadly, the only 'config' you have for that is the ambilight style mode. Change from standard to movie and it will be darker (less white on dark scene).

@@CNCapture Turn it to "Gaming" and they will be off.

With an ambiligh Philips TV you can connect any extra Philips RGBW Philips Hue. Bulb, Lamp. Strip. No need for extra bridge. With any other TV you'd need a HDMI Philips Hue Link Bridge

Philips RGBW Bulbs in 2 regular E27 lamps

never!

This is exactly the question that I have been looking for and no one has answered it yet.

@@Gump1Gump2 finally A80J is better, better processor. But in France right now the panasonic JZ1500 is at the same price than A80J, so its the better choice.

@@MrMagicdiamond is the jz1500 better than the LG C1 in motion and video processing?

@@wakaflockaproject yes sony and pana are the best for this.

There is a gap. I don't really notice it on the wall tho' Also I have bottom at lower brightness. Maybe with a wall mount is more obvious

Would be nice tho' to get a real punchy bass out of a built in speaker 🙂 I have an Atmos 7.0 with Q Acoustics for all 5 main surround speakers. Mostly in the video is the stereo Q Acoustic 3050i..as recorded by stupid phone mic

@@CNCapture ah that explains the amazing sound, as was watching with headphones and thought surely that can't be the TV. Thanks for letting me know 👍

@@CNCapture is atmos 7.0 working without issues? I read a lot of complaints about audio issues, mainly Atmos via earc.

@@vanderslagmulders in fact..no Could not figure yet what the heck is wrong..there is an audio cutoff random, a few seconds, whatever content, whatever source, whatever cable. Worked with Arc on previous LED..

Google also figured and marked the license in my video 😄. I was impressed. I felt like that scene show's nicely how Ambilight can extend the perceived screen size.

Gasesti modelul in descriere, se gaseste pe mai multe magazine online.

you probably dont give a damn but does someone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!

@Travis Jude Instablaster ;)

@Keaton Hezekiah thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Keaton Hezekiah it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much you really help me out :D

@Travis Jude Glad I could help xD

Hasbro got yo ass bat yo

Well, like..in their face 😈😂. The bee has to play friendly

Well, honestly ,if you check my video you see that I only dissambled the part where the batteries and power switch lies. The actual board with sensors chip and memory is inside and I have no clue what it is. Best shot is that it's a mini development board programmable with some IO interface. But if it's not something that's open source then there's no way to hack it. Reverse engineering is not worth it. I would have loved too if Hasbro would have used some interface that's easy to mod/update.. they could have done so much with it.. It is, what it is! 😂

@@CNCapture see I knew you were the guy to ask about this sorta thing! Lol thanks man, but I believe if anyone pulls it off it'll be you. I look forward to seeing that vid if ya do! ✌️

Well, no I don't but it's pretty straight forward. The board has 2 connections in a corner one mm apart. (2 holes actually, for connecting cables) - battery PLUS (red) cable goes to the pin in the corner (this is an extra cable that you will add ) - battery MINUS (black) cable goes to the pin next to it (this is a second extra cable that you will add) There is a red cable from deadpool's circuit connected to battery plus. You cut this off (disconnect from battery) The board has one big black switch on the other side, with 2 big connections top/bottom. - One extra red cable comes from battery plus, to the board on either one of the connections beside the big black switch - The original deadpool (plus..red) cable that you cut off, connects to the second connection beside the big black switch. The board gets power from battery via connections on the corner, permanently. It uses lots of battery.. All the other circuits inside deadpool gets juice (power on the voltage plus) only when the switch on the board is ON (controlled via smart app / google home. etc) Then instead of a battery pack I just connected a usb cable plus and minus and keeping deadpool on (the board connected on wifi) via USB power, and it's internal circuits (head movement) triggered when I set an alarm in the app from the board or via google home.

Amazing thanks mate it’s awesome! You are right it drains the battery fast Thanks so much

Really?

Just look for RE5V1C It's available in all global marketplaces amazon, banggood, aly, ebay..and possibly local retailers Meantime I took the batteries off and soldered an usb cable to the + - instead, and now it's plugged in a usb power supply. I've checked and any 5V 1Ah usb power adapter works just fine (and any USB3 in a PC if you wish) Less portable yet way more useful. I use mine as an alarm clock now.

@@CNCapture how can you use it as an alarm clock?

@@BI-NguyenTuanThanh the app of the smart wi-fi switch allows trigger on/off and on with a timeout for off ;)

My Gigabyte AORUS Elite 1.1/1.2 does have a thunderbolt support...

Probabil e tardiv raspunsul meu insa da..la modelul asta de cooler cel putin, pus pe socker de AMD, problema e ca pompa se prinde pe socket intr-o singura directie (axa orizontala), nu se poate pune in axa verticala (cu suruburile sus/jos), si din cauza asta furtunele de apa raman fie prea lungi si incolacite fie prea scurte (in fata nu imi ajungea). Poate daca ai o carcasa mai scurta, dar ar fi o carcasa in care nu intra placi de baza lungi. Mi-a dat multe batai de cap si ma enerveaza si pe mine cum stau furtunele peste RAM... dar mi-a placut enorm de mult aspectul estetic al pompei.

Pau Sabater looks like the G Skill Trident Z Neo

It's 32GB 3600MHz G.Skill Tridend Z Neo RAM Memory; it's on the description down below the video

Fiind folosit un singur slot merge la fel de bine si pe ultimul. E pusa asa pentru a fi mai aerisita carcasa, flow de aer mai bun.

@@CNCapture OK

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