That's my fault. This was an early one, and I had no idea how to manipulate audio at the time. I don't have the original files anymore. This will get re-filmed one day in HD with better audio.

Thank you. I really appreciate that. I am definitely excited to get a jointer some day! Which one did you get, and are you happy with it?

Yeah, I need to change that title. It's either gone up, or I read the page wrong. Thanks.

I appreciate that! I wish I could get my hands on a Rockler to do a really close comparison. The only minor issue I've had with mine is the remote being a little finicky. It's not a perfect machine, but it is all relative to the price point. Maybe the Rockler is better, but without an up close inspection of every part it is impossible to say. I run the Grizzly for sometimes an hour straight, and it's probably on for a total of 2hrs every day I am in the shop, and it is still going strong. Longevity is something I can't guarantee, as I just haven't owned it for 5yrs, or 10yrs, to be able to know. Whichever you choose, I'll just say that having a proper dust collector is a really nice addition to the shop experience.

I hope you enjoy it!

I watched your first video and found it very disappointing. It did not really help me set my new saw up . I previously owned the 10-305 and happy with it. I just wanted to upgrade. All that being said you did a great job on this new video. You eliminated all the confusion that I still had after watching 1st video. Great job!

It doesn't matter too much what you use, it just needs to be only a little smaller than the area you drop it into. I used a square nut that is a little under 1/2" in width, so it slides down there but doesn't turn much. The bolt is 1/4". You can probably get a 5/16" bolt into the hole for even more contact. If you can find a square nut with an exterior of about a 1/2", and then a 5/16 bolt to match, that would be ideal. It doesn't need to be long. Even an inch would be plenty imo.

@@MMWoodworking i really appreciate your response. I tried a 5/16 bolt but the nut i got along with it won’t fit. I will try to look for a square nut tomorrow.

That is an amazing deal! I appreciate the comment, and I apologize for the potato camera quality. Re-filming in HD, with some updates on things I forgot, is on the list for videos to do this year.

Bevels = at least 60 teeth. I use a Diablo 60 tooth crosscut, but plan to move to an 80 tooth Diablo once this 60 is dull, for an even better finish. (Diablo Fine Finish is the 60, and Diablo Ultra Finish is the 80). You can use a brand like CMT, or any other brand of blade that is in the Diablo or better range. Just make sure it has at least 60 teeth. Flat bottom = I currently am using a Freud Thin Kerf Rip, but you can use any rip blade that is Flat Top Grind, or a combo blade (Diablo 50 tooth), but the combos still leave a little bump, but it works perfectly fine for the mitered box base groove use. Ideally it will be either be flat top grind or Combo. I am really liking the Freud thin kerf rip, but CMT also sells a full kerf rip, as does Freud, that are flat top. In all honesty, any blade will be fine for making the groove for the base, as no one will see the little ridges, but if you do something like a sliding lid you will want either a Flat Top Grind blade (usually only found in some rip blades), or to use a router bit. I hope that helps.

Not sure. Maybe it was to alert parents if their kids were playing around and picking up valuable things? Could just be to add weight, but in an odd way. Maybe just to mess with people!

I think you might be mistaken. Certainly plenty of Cherry varieties were brought from Asia, but I believe black cherry is native to the eastern coast of north America. I believe most, if not all the cherry sold as cherry by american wood yards, is from Black Cherry. It is a misunderstood wood for sure, but like chestnut, it was here when the first Europeans landed.

@@paulkramer4176 I stand corrected, black cherry is indeed an American indigenous species.

The router is a Bosch 1617.

That’s a shame to hear that it wasn’t great. The clamps can be tightened significantly using the Phillips screw on them. Lock them down and then tighten them. You can get them extremely tight if you want. Then unlock them and the next time you go to lock the fence it will maintain that tightness.

Interesting thought. I just do it to the table, but if you think your sled may not be quiet flat, then yeah, I guess it would make the most sense to do it to the sled. I had never really thought about it to be honest. I always prefer MDF on jigs because it is heavy, and stays pretty lat, which means I can be fairly confident it is the same. I may have to go test my sled later and see if it is any different. You may just have to test yours with some scrap wood.

From my table to the chuck when the jaws are fully tightened (out), its 12"... add 3/4" for my MDF table, and the jaws fully retracted adds another 5/8" or so. Basically, with no bit and the jaws fully out, about 12 3/4", and with the jaws full retracted it is about 13 3/8". Just account for your chosen drill bit from there. You will also want to leave at least 1/8" to actually get the object under the drill bit, and account for any point on a brad point as well. I hope that helps. This is all +/- 1/16th or so.