MERCI BEAUCOUP super cela m a été très utile thank's

Hi ... it was one of the modified polymer sealants, I think I used Puraflex 40 although that's only because I had some laying around. There were no rattles from the back end, so I guess it has done the job! good luck.

From memory I loosened the right hand side which kept it all aligned, but carefully dropped out the bolts on the left hand side, keeping the subframe supported as the springs will be pushing it downwards. Been a long time, sorry! Good luck.

Brought me a smile. Thanks fella.

Hi ... I'm sorry I really can't remember, I think they were a Torx head, and I just used one of the standard set I have. Sadly we no longer have the car.

Im just about to do this. Gotta buy a 10mm inverse torx for the subframe bolts. Tried with 7/16ths and rounded the tool. Impact driver (big makita one) wouldnt move it. Left it to soak in wd40 gonna use a big bar on them.

@@rcaguitars I soaked mine in fast penetrant WD40 overnight and JUST shifted them with a LONG breaker bar!

@@scopex2749 thanks. My sockets arrive tomorrow. Got a more powerful battery for the impact and will spray them up again to soak overnight. I think a big bar will be the way. Also gotta lube up the parking brake release where it splits under the rear seat as the car has been sat for many months

For anyone else who hasnt already got the bolts out it was an e16! Impact driver did it no probs with the right bit and the 5mAh battery. Having trouble getting bubble flare on the existing steel as i ignored the warnings and bought the cheap tool since this is a task i intend to do only once. It requires bubble flare which just pushes the tube back through the clamp even if i use a spanner on the wing nuts. Going to try again and put a little bend just behind the clamp to try and alleviate this. Also (not advised) im going to heat the end a bit once clamped to try and softwn the steel a little. Not advised as brake fluid WILL burn and you are near the fuel tank! A nice flush cut and a gentle tickle with a file to almost put a champher on the end will deffo help too. Failing that im going to completely remove the rear undertray and try joining it near the bracket there instead. Will lift the arse end up with a jcb telehandler if i have to. Headaches. I just want to put an mot on it so i can sell the bloody thing so not looking to spend more than the car is worth. Note: i tried the single flare (which isnt allowed on brake lines) and the first two times it split on the flare and the third time it didnt split but leaked anyway.

Hi, I guess excluding getting the car jacked up, maybe a whole afternoon? 3-4 hours by the time it was all bled? I'm not a pro, as you can probably tell!

Great, glad it worked for you. Saves a very heavy bill at the dealership!

Hi ... it was one of the modified polymer sealants, I think I used Puraflex 40 although that's only because I had some laying around. There are no rattles from the back end, so I guess it has done the job! good luck.

worth checking with your Merc dealer for sure, they can sometimes be surprisingly cheap. I just replaced a (genuine) rear lower control arm on mine for less than some of the used ones on eBay.

Sounds like your Merc is about the same condition as mine! Have you checked the front plates? I had to do all 4 of mine at the same time.

With the Clarke kit I had, it was quite easy. I chose that type of pipe connector because it took the simple flare rather than the bubble type flare, which I figured would be easier in steel. Never done it in steel before, and it went like a dream. The Merc is still on the road ... passed its MOT last month ...! Good luck. Not a fun job.

Thanks ... hope it was useful

Great tip, thanks for pointing this out, I didn't make it clear in the video that the flexi pipe flare needs to be the other type.