Mercedes C-Class S203 W203 EASY replacement rusty rear BRAKE LINES / PIPES

Рет қаралды 16,427

5 жыл бұрын

Rusty brake pipes on the back of your Merc? How to replace the pipes WITHOUT removing exhaust, rear subframe, propshaft, undertrays, fuel tank & more!

Пікірлер: 21

@Twiggyay 5 жыл бұрын

Oh god. This is so daunting. My W203 didn't make it through the EU regulations test thing, so i went and bought myself a W211. The plan is to give the C-class to my brother, but for it to be approved for the road i need this done and there's absolutely no chance i'll be paying out my ass for it to be done professionally. All i have to say is thank you for making this video! I'll be using it as a sort of reference.

@jonathanwood5681 4 жыл бұрын

watched your step by step guide and did the same to my clk55 today went like clock work i would recommend DIN connectors and flares all round many thanks for your advice saved me a fortune .

@mikesmithroller 4 жыл бұрын

Great, glad it worked for you. Saves a very heavy bill at the dealership!

@MrJolem 4 жыл бұрын

Great video the only thing is the flare for the flexipipe should be a DIN bubble flare not SAE

@mikesmithroller 4 жыл бұрын

Great tip, thanks for pointing this out, I didn't make it clear in the video that the flexi pipe flare needs to be the other type.

@MrJolem 4 жыл бұрын

Great tips, watched this a few times now, learned how to make flares etc, got all the kit and I'm just about to do the same on my c class, did you have any trouble flaring the existing steel pipes?

@mikesmithroller 4 жыл бұрын

With the Clarke kit I had, it was quite easy. I chose that type of pipe connector because it took the simple flare rather than the bubble type flare, which I figured would be easier in steel. Never done it in steel before, and it went like a dream. The Merc is still on the road ... passed its MOT last month ...! Good luck. Not a fun job.

@benjaminzhou9503 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing. Are you sure the copper line is strong enough to the pressure? Isn’t the original line made of steel? It’s amazing the brake line is not made of easily replaceable sections. It seems the brake line designers never replace a brake line.

@destruxxx 3 жыл бұрын

Doing this right now on my C280, but mine are rusted above the tank as well so I'm cutting the lines in front of the tank and running new ones along side of the tank. I'm using copper nickel with DIN bubble flare fittings. I was able to get the pipes routed in the stock location after they pass the fuel tank without lowering the subframe on mine, since I don't have to flare anything up above the subframe. It's a bit disappointing they didn't use a better line coating.

@abdharr3761 3 жыл бұрын

Damn I’ve got same car

@markwalker9984 Жыл бұрын

HI There i know this is an old video so you may not reply, but just wanted to confirm that you took the subframe bolts right out ? as at the start of the video you say you just loosened them ? did i miss the bit where you took them right out ? as at the end you say you will put the bolts back in, if you can find time to reply it would be appreciated. cheers Mark.

@mikesmithroller Жыл бұрын

From memory I loosened the right hand side which kept it all aligned, but carefully dropped out the bolts on the left hand side, keeping the subframe supported as the springs will be pushing it downwards. Been a long time, sorry! Good luck.

@rbx9762 3 жыл бұрын

How long did this job take you from start to finish?

@mikesmithroller 3 жыл бұрын

Hi, I guess excluding getting the car jacked up, maybe a whole afternoon? 3-4 hours by the time it was all bled? I'm not a pro, as you can probably tell!

@scopex2749 3 жыл бұрын

Hi I have to do the same job as you!!! What size are the subframe securing bolts please?

@mikesmithroller 3 жыл бұрын

Hi ... I'm sorry I really can't remember, I think they were a Torx head, and I just used one of the standard set I have. Sadly we no longer have the car.

@rcaguitars 3 жыл бұрын

Im just about to do this. Gotta buy a 10mm inverse torx for the subframe bolts. Tried with 7/16ths and rounded the tool. Impact driver (big makita one) wouldnt move it. Left it to soak in wd40 gonna use a big bar on them.

@scopex2749 3 жыл бұрын

@@rcaguitars I soaked mine in fast penetrant WD40 overnight and JUST shifted them with a LONG breaker bar!

@rcaguitars 3 жыл бұрын

@@scopex2749 thanks. My sockets arrive tomorrow. Got a more powerful battery for the impact and will spray them up again to soak overnight. I think a big bar will be the way. Also gotta lube up the parking brake release where it splits under the rear seat as the car has been sat for many months

@rcaguitars 3 жыл бұрын

For anyone else who hasnt already got the bolts out it was an e16! Impact driver did it no probs with the right bit and the 5mAh battery. Having trouble getting bubble flare on the existing steel as i ignored the warnings and bought the cheap tool since this is a task i intend to do only once. It requires bubble flare which just pushes the tube back through the clamp even if i use a spanner on the wing nuts. Going to try again and put a little bend just behind the clamp to try and alleviate this. Also (not advised) im going to heat the end a bit once clamped to try and softwn the steel a little. Not advised as brake fluid WILL burn and you are near the fuel tank! A nice flush cut and a gentle tickle with a file to almost put a champher on the end will deffo help too. Failing that im going to completely remove the rear undertray and try joining it near the bracket there instead. Will lift the arse end up with a jcb telehandler if i have to. Headaches. I just want to put an mot on it so i can sell the bloody thing so not looking to spend more than the car is worth. Note: i tried the single flare (which isnt allowed on brake lines) and the first two times it split on the flare and the third time it didnt split but leaked anyway.