I’m glad you found value in this video! Thanks for your comment😃🤙🏼

If your clearances are within specifications you shouldn’t have a hard time turning over your engine. You must verify your crankshaft journals and compare them to your bearings. Once you verify the correct clearance you can assemble. In order to have a free rotating assembly, you must torque your caps on both the main bearings & con-rod bearings. That is if you clearances are to the specifications! Once torqued, the bearing shells will take shape and offer the correct clearance. If you do NOT torque them, the will still sit in an oval shape within the parts. This not a good time to rotate the engine, as the bearing shells can move or become scored. If you rotating assembly is tight, after all bolts are torqued you can have serious issues: - A bent crankshaft -Crankshaft journal issues -Bearing shell issues Etc. Let me know what you figure out

@@WorkshopRebuild there was no bearing shells on crank when i took pistons out.

@user-rd8es2bm2r Excuse me, I thought you commented under a diesel engine rebuild video, my mistake! You can either have tight connecting rods or tight pistons. If you crankshaft rotates freely without the connecting rods bolted to them, then there is your issue. If the crankshaft does not rotate freely, you have an issue with your crankshaft bearings.

@@WorkshopRebuild it spins freely with just the crank. I did just get it bored out .10 over. The ring gap was within spec. I'm using the old connecting rods.

Thank you for your comment, Marcel! I learnt this work in Switzerland😊👍🏼 Grüess Andreas

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Thanks for the heads up! What do you recommend for tapered water plugs on engine blocks? Regards Andreas

@@WorkshopRebuild The street says aircraft adhesive Made by permatex

Assembly lube stopping + 75PSI of oil pressure…🧐😂

Straight oil will give you a shiny finish, but it will come off over time. There are chemical sealers you want to apply after bluing that work better than just using oil, but it's really up to you. Cheers

I know what you mean. I had an issue with that too on my JD 855 and I just put two zip ties on the magnet to connect them. The magnet must've lost power over the years and they did not connect anymore. The PTO lever is still mechanically activated, so I didn't see this as a bad solution. If the PTO were to turn on electronically, by the touch of the magnets, I would have replaced them, but in this case they do not. It's up to you if you want to replace the magnets, or just put a zip-tie on them in the meantime as a temporary fix. I also had an issue with my seat switch which was completely corroded, and that also ties into the PTO activation. Before replacing the magnet, be sure it's really just the magnet and not possibly the seat switch as well. Regards Andreas

Thank you for your comment, it means a lot! I thoroughly enjoyed rebuilding this engine and it will go back into a restored BMW motorcycle. I cannot wait to share the final results with you. Regards Andreas

Thanks for viewing and leaving a comment! Cheers

Hi there, the front hydraulic couplers have a shoulder on them and they are fastened/held in place with snap rings to the front plate. Here is a link to the drawing for the hydraulic couplers: www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/john-deere-parts-lookup/model-300-hydrostatic-tractor-16-hp-k341-aqs-kohler-engine-pc1474-left-front-hydraulic-kit-300-316-s-n-095-000-hydrostatic-tractors/4275-35358-546931 On this website you can also access other drawings for the JD 300 that might come in handy. Regards Andreas

Which side of the front plate does the snap ring go on? It looks like it goes on the backside which doesn’t help my situation. I’m thinking there’s another problem anyway that we could talk so I can explain this but thank you for responding to me.