Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting! Yeah, I was curious mostly about leaving them on full time as opposed to specific times like for plowing only or what have you. I'd just assume to leave them on myself, but wasn't sure if that would contribute to early wear...

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting! Yes, I definitely did use 3 quarts. At this point, can't remember where I saw the recommendation for less, but I never agreed with it. Been using these tractors since I was a boy, and always fill it up with 3.

So, I had to go look for what I saw. I found it, and it definitely makes zero sense. In Ingersoll owners manual 8-55981 for 3016, 3018, 4016, 4018, and 4020 models, it says to use "1 pint" for transaxle. Wondering if that was a misprint? For comparison, Case manual number 9-7081 covering 446 and 448 models recommends 3 quarts for transaxle. Strange to me.... I'll stick with the 3 quarts.

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Love it! It's a great method, and even better with personal tweaks like yours.

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! So yes we tilled in 1st gear ⚙️. Tractor handled it like a champ. Power was good. The tricky part about it is that it does not have a live pto like modern machines, so the clutch has to be released for the pto to spin. Not really tricky, I guess. You just have to remember the clutch has to be released even though the pto is engaged.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 yep I’m familiar with that from bush hogging with the tractor. I’ve just always heard that running a tiller is the hardest thing you can do to a tractor pto

@superliner101hobbyfarming I suppose it could be given the soil makeup. I'm pretty fortunate to have fairly sandy soil, so maybe that helped. I know it didn't really struggle with it. The 6ft tiller is definitely the largest I would ever try on mine. I can say for a fact, it definitely earns its keep around our place! It tows, we've pulled stumps with it, ran a ground drive manure spreader to name a few things. Nice little tractors!

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 yes they are! Mine plants & cultivates corn, rakes hay, bush hogs, and does other odd jobs

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!!

Hello! Thanks for watching 👀 and for your question! The product is called Nevr-Dull made by Eagle One. You can get it just about anywhere. Local hardwares, auto parts stores, Walmart, etc...

Thank you for letting mek now.

Thank you!!

Thanks for Watching 👀, commenting, and subscribing!! This was a fun project!

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! Great info! Thanks for sharing!

Thank you!! Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! Congratulations on your find!! I'm sure you'll have fun with it. I know I thoroughly enjoyed the project and outcome! I do not know the actual value on these. Im not really a collector or anything like that. I really just thought it was an absolutely awsome looking fan when I bought it. I also bought a 16" "big brother" version of this fan to go with it. Haven't got to that yet. I did basically just enough research to acquire a little info on these particular fans to get the restoration done and have a bit of history on them. What I did gather is that these being models without actual brass blades is that they're a little bit later models and nowhere near as valuable as the ones with brass blades. I visited a few vintage fan forums during all this. It's pretty helpful. I'm sure that may help you as well. They all seemed quite friendly.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 thank you for the response and info. I really enjoy old cars and antiques

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! I thought about videoing it. However, the painting was nothing fancy. After all the old paint was removed, I just used rattle can Rustoleum "gloss black" for the main body parts and Rustoleum "Rose Gold" for the blades and a couple of accent pieces. It matched the copper/brass parts color the closest. No baking, just air dry for a good week before assembling anything to prevent chipping or anything. After assembly, I wiped it down real good with microfiber cloths to remove fingerprints, etc.

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! They are in deed! Mine does no real work now, but I was told by the man I bought it from that it was taken to the field once or twice a year to stretch her legs on a plow, even though technically long retired.

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! Glad you enjoyed it!!

ha ha me too. I thought I was the only one.

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! Enjoy your trip, and good luck with your new acquisition!!

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! I had to look your stove up online, as I did not know what that brand was. I see there are several sub-models of the "Clarity." Which do you have? I myself have always had large fire boxes, and I can see your challenge. Looks like you'd have to do everything in a "miniature" frame of mind. Smaller logs and splits of wood. I feel like this method could still be done on a smaller scale.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658ekol clarity 5 I seem to babysit it a lot because I can only put one log on at a time if I squeeze two on which is difficult it goes way up to 700degrees and the installer told me to keep it in the 500 what do you think of the temperature or do you not bother about that

@Anna-jt3xu So, several things. To answer one of your questions, I do monitor my stove temperatures 🌡. I have a magnetic thermometer on it to see where it is at all times. I have a pretty large stove, and I can pack quite a bit of wood into it, and usually, my stove will run between 500 and 600. Now, depending on how much heat I want, I will use fewer logs if just to take the chill off. It will run cooler then. Secondly, I downloaded the user manual for your stove and read it. It looks like this is not meant to be a constant heat source. The manual actually says you will have to feed your fire about "every hour." Do you use your 3 air controls? From what I see, once your fire 🔥 is going well, I would try slowly closing your primary and tertiary vents to slow your burn rate. Leave the secondaries open for clean burn. I would experiment using one or the other first (primary or tertiary), then the other, then a combination of the 2 until you find the rate and temp you like. My stove only has one air control on it, so 3 seems like a lot to me... You may have to experiment with the 2 of them a bit. Just make sure you do not close any of them so much that your fire chokes and smolders. Also, the manual recommends no more than 1.4kg (3lbs) of wood per load in any combination of 1 to 4 logs. Definitely not a lot of wood. Typically, 1 larger log would take longer to burn than multiple small logs, as 1 has less surface area. Do you know what type of wood you are using? Wood 🪵 such as oak is denser and will burn longer and hotter. Less dense woods like maple or a soft wood like pine will burn quickly with less heat output. Your wood must be nice and dry also. Wet wood will make any stove run poorly. Hope all this helps!

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 thanks for your reply yes my wood is kiln dried and I buy kindling dry it’s hard wood that I pay for £162 per pallet. I suppose it’s trial and error think I should have checked out the size before I bought it🇬🇧

@@Anna-jt3xu 👍 I spose once you find the "sweet spot" you'll get used to things. I feel like you could squeeze out over an hour between reloads. Good luck!🇺🇸

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!!! I'm glad this worked out for you, and you like it!!

A bit of prep just like you do . Im building your fire just like you aswell I will never go back . Gets up to perfect temp on my thermometer so quick cheers pal . I've got video but can't seem to post it on here thanks again mate .

Hey, thanks for checking in!! Over a hundred!! Amazing!! So I have not fixed the radio. I do still have it in its entirety. Pretty much set it off to the side for the time being. The physical cosmetic repairs for me would be no problem. I just don't have the knowledge of or how to go about replacing all the different resistors etc, nor do I have the equipment to test it and set the alignment etc. Until I can figure those hurdles out, I'll let it sit for now. Thanks for asking!

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 I can see how intimidating it could be if you’ve never done it. I’m still not an expert and don’t have all the equipment that a person needs to fix these radios. But If you ever get back to it, let me know and maybe I can get you started in the right direction.

@JackOfAllTrades2022 Thanks!! That's kind of you! It just seems like a very daunting task not understanding all the different types of resistors, capacitors, and how to read the colored bands etc to be able to purchase what would be needed. No clue where to begin... Sure would be cool if kits existed for stuff like this!

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 I wish they did have kits, would have made my life much easier. Anyway, when you’re ready, maybe I can get you started.

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! It definitely seems that the bottom logs being n/s create the needed path for good air circulation.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 if I do E/W for the bottom logs, Yea it blocks the air

That's exactly what I do. Then I just keep loading E/W. Once you've got that bed of coals, the air will burn out a path through the bottom of the front E/W log.

@robertm5969 Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!! Exactly right! Once it's hot and going well it makes its own way.

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! They sure paid off! 😆

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! It's a tad bit extra prep time, but it's so worth it!!

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! I have actually played around with exactly what your saying. I have laid smaller pieces of kindling on the bottom N to S (front to back) first then the entire top down method on top of the kindling. It did seem to allow for air to circulate at startup, however I did notice the kindling will burn quicker and you end up with the big logs on the bottom somewhat blocking the good initial air flow at startup. I had to go in and "stir things up" a bit to get the logs to burn completely. Just my experience. You might find things go differently with your particular stove. Thanks again!

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 Thanks for your reply. I didn't realize the good airflow would make things burn fast and collapse. I'll keep an eye out for more of your videos.

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!! Thanks for the input!! We'll said!!

Thank you! Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!!

I have a later (516860a) micarta bladed one. It uses the speed coil design like you are thinking about. This one is strange indeed. Clearly it works so there must be resistors inside the switch assembly. There is no coil, it works correctly... thus a resistor based version. I don't think I've ever seen this design before on any brand. If yours is like mine, there are four connections to make. Let's name it the pivoting side and the sliding side for the switch. Head Wires: The pivot side nut is where the swing bar connects should go to the stator. The other bigger nut on the pivot side is the Neutral AND your other stator connection. Power Wires: The Neutral is connecting on the pivot side along with the one head wire as said above. The Hot should go to the "furthest from off" little screw on the sliding side of the switch. Sorry, I don't have time to look for links to media. There are one or two videos that show disassembling on KZfaq. Also, there are a few hard to find pictures if you image search. I hope yours is the same setup and my words can translate clearly to actions. Best of luck getting your fan running!

Interesting concept on this. Never tried it that way....

You are absolutely correct! That is exactly what I did to my 446. One thing that should be mentioned is: Jack the rear of the tractor up, and place the transaxle on jackstands. Then go to work.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 It isn't an interesting concept. What jimquick129 has mentioned is exactly how the job is done.

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! 16!! That's pretty cool!! I have 7 and alot of spare parts. I aggre 100% with you. I always put 3 quarts in or til it flows out that fill plug.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 I used to talk to bill Parken. He was the plant manager in wisconsin for the ingersoll tracthere's, And John marto was the JI case engineer who changed the plug design. And They both said that nothing in the rear end Changed at all and that putting 3 qt in was fine and made Absolutely no different, the idea was to stop Worn out axle bushings with 2~3 thousand hours on them from leaking, And they both agreed they would put three quarts in their tractor.

@jimquick1249 Great info! Nice having an insider's knowledge on your side.

Hi! Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! Don't know if you use ebay, but seems they pop up fairly regularly. Maybe you can find a parts done fan and get her running!

Thanks for watching 👀 and commenting!! Good to hear from a fellow owner!! Ridiculous they won't fill that for you! If only they'd worry about actual important things.... It's not like there's a million tractors like that still out doing daily work. Is there a way you can convert the valve set up, or even add a removable modern tank somehow as an "auxillary" to be able to enjoy your tractor? Good luck to you! Hope you can get something figured out to keep running her! 🤞👍

Hello to you! Too cool! Love these tractors! Thanks for watching 👀!!

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!!! Love hearing about the old Case machines!! I have an LA and a '36 CC as well. CC is a work in progress. Would love a D or DC one day. Always reminds me of a miniature LA of sorts.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 The CC is basically an older version of the DC. If you look at the engine, a lot of features are the same

Love the boxiness of the of the old C's and L's!

Thanks for Watching 👀 and commenting!! So I didn't really cover it in the video time's sake, mostly. I initially tried cleaning it up and soldering it. That's did not work. Ultimately, I settled on a 2 part liquid epoxy and after it hardened, lightly ground it down a bit with a dremel tool. Not perfect and if you're looking for it, you'll find it. But, it's solid, together and functions well, so I'm good with that.

Agreed!! Thanks for Watching 👀, and Subscribing!!

Thanks for watching and commenting! Hope you were able to strike a deal! Pretty neat tractors. I've always been a Case man, but my youngest son is ALL Deere. He's taught me a bit about them, and I think these old horizontal 2 cylinders are super cool.

Thanks for watching and commenting!! So, on this particular fan, there is a small thead in reservoir under the front bearing that feeds a spring-loaded Wick that makes contact with the shaft. Rear bearing lubrication is provided from the grease in the gear box case for the oscillating gears ⚙️. The front reservoir would have to be topped off with fresh oil from time to time. Frequency varies by usage.

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 What type of oil did you refill the reservoir with?

@danconsie398 OK, so I had ordered a restoration kit from a company called Vintage Wire and Supply. In that kit was a clear 20 weight oil designed for motors and things like these fans. It's my understanding that automotive oils will damage the bearings, so stay away from those. Guess it has mostly to do with the additives... I also believe that "3 in 1" makes an oil for motors as well?

Absolutely!! She's some.good old iron!

Thanks for watching and commenting! So this fan was produced in the United States in around the 1920's, and is no longer manufactured. It runs on 110-120 volts ac current at a frequency of 60 cycles.

Thanks for watching and commenting!! So before I disconnected any of the old wiring, I took pictures of how it was hooked up, then matched the new wiring to the pics during the rewire. Also, having a new modern polarized plug to work with, I made sure that the hot lead of the plug(narrow prong) went directly to and through the switch then to the motor, with the neutral coming directly back from the motor to the plug (wide prong). Being an AC motor though, there is no actual positive or negative like a DC motor would have.

Thank you for watching 👀 and for your kind comment!

Thanks for watching and commenting!! Thanks for the interesting information! Much appreciated!

Thanks for watching and commenting! Ya know, I was actually wondering if they were the same. I saw some photos of standard black turkeys just recently and thought they looked very similar. It's ok, though, I've been enjoying these birds. Very docile so far. They like to perch on my arm and come right over to me. Pretty fun. Thanks again!

@@ridgemeadowhobbyfarm8658 that’s really all that matters buddy!