Look at the wiring video in the series. It’s helpful to break it down into smaller chunks. Each section of the build is separate to the next. Hope that helps.

Remove the wires again. Take a break. And start again. A mistake was made somewhere.

@@GaryMeatsLife . Thanks, it's the same proposition of Seplos support. After the operation i have the LCD display showing the riht information. Only it's not possible shutdown the battery. The power switch is ok, the Run Led show when ON or OFF, but the display stay always ON. Thats the answer of Seplos support : This may be because the power module of the BMS has broken down. The unstable external output voltage has caused the power module to break down, but it does not affect the use. It's just that the battery cannot be shut down. If you need to shutdown, you need to disconnect the battery.

@@Yesterday679OK. I would personally leave it, because you won’t be doing much powering down of the unit and only the LCD is drawing power when off. Of course, it could be replaced if you wanted to.

How have you tested the switch and cable? If the switch and cable are OK, then you have either connected to the wrong seat, or there is a board fault. Does it power up without the switch connected?

I hope you enjoy building it. I'm in the middle of building a second one, but was given the wrong accessories kit. Have to wait for a new one. Sharp eyes on the meter by the way. I had checked it on every setting and it didn't work. The temperature sensor was also not working. What you see in the video was just me lazily leaving it on the previous setting. I exchanged it and got a better unit which works as expected.

@@GaryMeatsLife Thanks for the response Gary. My challenges, in advance of the kit arriving are: 1) Working out what mains cable to use to the inverter - Victron say use multi-strand flexible cable without ferrules. I can find low voltage multi-strand but not ones that are clear about being good for 240V. 2) How to setup the Seplos BMS with Victron Multiplus (I will be studying your settings) and 3) how to setup the Victron Dynamic ESS, using Node Red on a GX device. This is to take advantage of the Octopus Agile tariff. It will be a slog but I will get there. I need to document what I find to help others. I am not good enough to do videos like your good self. I know that I will be chanting "Here goes" when I come to switch it on.

@@tonyjarvis4970 Sounds like you have some fun ahead of you. Once I build my second battery, I'll make and upload the BMS Studio video, so hopefully that will give you more help. I can't comment on your other queries, but I don't understand the logic in the suggestion of not using ferrules. Surely good quality ferrules make the most sense unless there is something special about how the victron clamps the loose strand wire. I would love to have something like the Octopus tariff, but I make do with a 4 hour cheap window of around 6.5c per kWh to charge my battery and EVs. If I use the battery, or need more than 5kW (inverter limit) at a time, then I pay 36c per kWh. I intend for that to be exceedingly rare, hence the second battery.

@@GaryMeatsLife Your rate is better than most prices quoted on Agile. Octopus will not allow me to go on their low price EV tariff unless I can prove I own an EV, otherwise I would have selected that route. I look forward to seeing your next video, keep up the good work. Oh - following your comment about the torque wrench I am going to do a simple check on mine. There is a point on the handle 0.2m from the pivot point. If I hang two 1 kg bags of sugar in a carrier bag at that point, with the drive end secured in a vice, it should "click" at (2 x 9.81 x 0.2) = 3.92 Nm . Lets call it 4 Nm. The calculation first converts kg to N (weight x gravity) multiplied by the torque "arm". Update - I couldn't find two bags of sugar so 4 cans of beans and a small can of coconut milk (too much info) = 2.044 kg = 4.006 Nm. The torque wrench clicked at 4.5 Nm, so I have about a 10% under torque. Thanks for the inspiration to check.

Thanks for the comment. I have seen similar concerns before and while you are correct to mention the potential obstruction, it's important to note that the tiny wires of the dashcam are as likely to stop an airbag deployment as I am to win the lottery tonight. Airbags in modern vehicles deploy at speeds in excess of 300km/h with forces exceeding 11kN. It would take a lot less than this to make the wire a non-issue. The wire would break, or be set aside in a fraction of a second, and the airbag would do what it is designed to do. Quite impressive to see. For anyone wanting to take additional safety measures, they could remove the panel and run the cable behind the airbag deployment tube, being careful not to accidentally set off the airbag, or damage it. This is a DIY guide and anyone undertaking it does so at their own risk.

@@GaryMeatsLife I suppose your right there mate. I myself am looking for a dashcam for my LEAF and I might just follow your guide. Thanks for taking the time making 👍

@@deansh8506 No problem. It's a good cam if buying the same one. It's been working away un-noticed and blends in nicely with the rest of the upper windscreen paraphernalia. It would be better though if manufacturers just had dash cams built-in, saving the headache of installing one. My Tesla Model 3 has 7 cams I can view in the event of an incident, or over the air at any time I like. This can't be achieved with third party systems and the best we can do is install a dual dash cam system and have it connected to a data sim for OTA viewing/GPS.

I expect to have one this month. I am building the second battery this weekend hopefully and will figure it out after I configure in BMS studio. I’ll record the process.

I'm afraid not. I'm not a Seplos rep, so wouldn't be in a position to advise you beyond the scope of the video.

Добрый день, можете дать ссылку на приложение Seplos studio?

The blue balance button flickers when it is activated. When in rest mode, it will glow. The capacity warning is most likely related to the BMS settings. You need to edit your capacity from 290Ah to 305Ah. Publish these changes to the battery. If you do not know how to use the BMS Studio, I will be doing a video on this soon. I am building anew battery this weekend. I needed to build a new PC before doing this.

У меня 280ач, и ещё при в ключении батареи срабатывают реле на плате планировки и через пару минут отключаются ето нормально?

@@ВиталийМорозов-м5п I assume you have assembled the battery yourself. When you turn the battery on using the rocker switch, the balance light should be solid blue. It should only blink when you press it. Pressing the button is a method to activate manual balancing for the purpose of testing that it works, or to balance the cells when the battery is at full charge. You will need to confirm the Ah capacity of your battery. Your battery will have 16 cells in it. Each cell will have the Ah capacity. This is the capacity you will need to enter into the BMS Studio when you connect the battery to your PC or Laptop. The default capacity on my BMS was 290Ah. When I first turned the battery on, I also got a capacity alarm. This alarm disappeared when I changed the Ah Capacity to 305Ah. It is possible your capacity is also 305Ah. Many cells are sold or advertised as 280Ah, but are actually 305Ah. Check one of you battery cells, or just change to 305Ah on the BMS studio. Have a look at this thread for help with BMS Studio and the correct settings listed in post #11 diysolarforum.com/threads/seplos-v3-bms-no-port-com-connection.85837/#post-1131303

@@GaryMeatsLife спасибо

Hi. I am not sure what you mean by "balancing fees". Can you clarify? I assume you are getting a battery capacity warning on the battery display and NOT on the inverter display. You are probably getting a capacity warning because you need to enter the correct capacity in the BMS Studio. The capacity on mine is set to 305Ah.

Alan, glad you enjoyed the video. I have a Hypervolt 2.0 which draws 7kW and which I schedule for 2am-6am charging. I also have an outdoor socket which would draw about 2kW. The outdoor socket is almost never used as we alternate the cars with the Hypervolt. The battery draws 5kW when charging. So the draw is 12kW from the grid over those hours…14kW if the cars were both charging. That’s the limit with my setup. My main supply is due to be upgraded also. The house then runs off the battery for the day. Funny fact: I’m currently in the UK and collected 16 more battery cells (15kWh) in the Netherlands a few days ago and yesterday another battery case. I’m about to strap the case to the roof rack on my Tesla 😂. 14 of the cells fit in the lower trunk/boot and the other 2 in the frunk. The car is stuffed with luggage and 3 people. Fun drive home 😅

@@GaryMeatsLife Safe travels Gary, Can't wait to see how your second battery pack build goes and especially how you daisy chain the 2 packs together.

I'm happy the video helped you out Jonny. I noticed the same lack of simple assembly instructions, so I put these videos together for people like you and me, who just want to know where to connect this and that and get it working. Seplos thanked me in one of my other videos and suggested and implied an interest in me showcasing their products. I have some interesting ideas for them and would love to build more of their products and showcase them, but they haven't followed up since. I enjoy building and sharing stuff that cuts the learning curve for others. I hope my other videos are just as helpful to you. Well done on completing the build!

I can't say that I have monitored this, but the cables are well within the safe zone for 100A sustained. I also need to take full advantage of the charging speed to make sure my battery is full within the 4 hour hour window. Next month, I will be adding a second battery and in time, I will be increasing my supply capacity to allow for additional batteries to charge, but the highest the cables will see is 100A. I will be upgrading to a larger gauge down the line to keep everything cool though.

I'm only somewhat familiar with my setup, so can't comment much on the JK BMS. I don't know what active balancer you have, or what triggers it. I intend to hit the balance button on my battery pack at least one per month to help keep the voltages more closely aligned. With your 16kWh capacity, you'll only have 13-13.5kWh really available if you have set the max charge and discharge voltages to 10 and 90%. My discharge is set to 85% with forced charging at 90% depleted. As far as I know, you need to use the CAN between the battery and the inverter. The generic battery setting on the Solis is "user defined". This is actually what I am using and I have an updated video on the settings I will be releasing in the next 48 hours. You can check out the first settings video I already have uploaded and that might help you out. You might also check you are using the correct settings on the BMS for whatever battery chemistry/type you are using. Again, i'm not familiar with JK, so you would have to look more into that yourself.

Do you have the battery connected to a Victron Multiplus?

@@Dizzythedes But then you wouldn’t see my pretty face 😘. I figure if someone can’t follow the instructions on the available angles, they should Go hire a Pro.

I believe cell drift is set to 50mV and should bring cells to within 3mV after active balancing. It’s good habit to hit the balance button on a monthly basis when the battery is topped up.

​​@@GaryMeatsLife30mV only. From this point is passive balancer task, unfortunately.

Small discrepancies seem to be commonplace between the inverter display and the APP. This is not just a Solis issue from what I have read. Like any electromechanical device, there will be a tolerance and this seems to be +/- 300W from my observations without detailed understanding or investigation. I hope that helps.

@@GaryMeatsLife the problem is that I haven't seen it 0 on the device even in peak sunlight hours. The device shows 2 to 3 amps. Could you please also mention what should be the CT direction and ratio and what is the criteria for setting this value?

@@wassaufkhalid8593I’ll pretext this by saying I’m a mechanical engineer and not an electrical engineer, so my understanding on this is limited and is gleaned from reading up on specialist contributions on online fora. The device will use a few amps and this may not be recorded in the APP output. Unless it is causing you to import/export unnecessarily, I would personally not worry about it. The inverter CT should point from the CU to the grid. I can’t advise on ratios. These settings are typically default values on the inverter and may only change when another relevant value is changed. The video is only intended for basic setup guidance. There are other channels which would cover settings on a deeper level. The solar DIY forum is also a great resource to troubleshoot. I’ve used it with good success.

@@devgunathillake4726 Take a look at the other video I have in this collection. One of them is a wiring video walkthrough which should answer your questions.

Thanks Constance. I am doing what works for me and I hope it helps others find what works for them. I continue to see the benefits and just had blood taken for comparison from when I started the lifestyle. I’ll share that in my next (and possibly my last) carnivore video.

I have yet to add a second battery to my system. I will be doing this next month. Logic would tell me that the second battery would be set up just like the first battery in the BMS Studio, with the exception that the DIP switch setting would be different than the first battery. The total capacity should update on the inverter. In the event I find this to be inaccurate, I will update here. For now, this is what I have. Assuming you are adding batteries in parallel: On page 26 of the manual for the SEPLOS Vertical 280Ah Battery Pack, the DIP settings for a single battery will be all OFF. When adding a second battery, you need to set the first battery DIP to pin 5 ON. On the second battery, you need to set pin 1 ON. If adding a third battery, the setting for banks 1,2 and 3 are Pin 6 ON, Pin 1 On and Pin 2 ON with respect to each battery in that order. When adding a 4th battery bank, the DIP settings become slightly more complex. Up to 16 battery packs can be connected in parallel according to the manual. Please refer to the user manual for clarification, as the settings are only accurate at the time of this post and may also be misinterpreted.

I have yet to make that video. Unfortunately my PC died on me recently and I lost some data. You may need to use an altered RJ45 utilising pin 1,2 and 5. See my responses to @banhvo4958 for more info. Using any old lan cable could cause damage to the BMS. The settings you will want to change are: Settings - Baud rate 19200 and access COM 5 Parameter settings: Line 89 and 90 (capacity) 305Ah Line 102 (Voltage) I set to 56V, as the standard 57.6 was too high for my liking. I think that is all I changed. If you see Ah setting at 290Ah, change those to 305Ah if your capacity is 305Ah.

You will need to replicate some of these setting on your inverter if the batteries and inverter are to work in harmony. See my inverter settings video for help on this.

@GaryMeatsFood I have make a new cable with pin 1,2 and 5 and now I can connect to the bms ... but now when I set AoBo protocol on invertor there is an Alarm as batname fail. If i set on user define is no alarm

@@VladBYT If AoBo gives alarm, or battery fail warning, then user define is OK to use. You will need to change some settings on the inverter, especially the floating voltage and equalisation voltage. I set mine to 57V and 56.7V respectively.

@@VladBYT Also the reason why you have battery fail alarm is most likely because the battery protocol setting on the BMS has not been set. I believe it needs to be plyontech in the software if you are to use AoBo on the inverter. However, user define is perfectly fine.

Not all Doctors. My General Practitioner seems happy enough with my decision to switch to a carnivore diet.

Hello Hart. Thank you for your comment. I am happy to help the solar community, because they helped me. I do have some ideas and suggestions to help reduce the need for customers to reach out to Seplos or a solar forum after purchasing a kit if there is a problem. I also have a couple of practical product suggestions. What is the best email address to reach you directly?

I am by no means an expert, but it sounds like your cells are out of balance. The BMS will show 100% when the first cell reaches 100%. If this cell is out of balance by an average of 10% to the other cells, then the actual state of charge would be around 90%. To the end user, it looks like the capacity is drifting, when in fact the BMS is just protecting the cell which has the highest voltage. If you balance the cells, this should make the lost capacity available to you again....for a while, but it will drift again. You could balance them every 4-6 months, or as often as you like. A passive balancer won't do a proper job with cells far out of balance. You need an active balancer, or you can do a manual top balance.

Hi Alan. As mentioned in the video, the kit was purchased from www.fogstar.co.uk for about €600. It cost me €50 for it to be dropped off in Northern Ireland where I collected from. The battery cells were from www.eu.nkon.nl and the 16 B Grade cells cost a little over €1200 delivered. If you already have the tools and don't need to buy anything else, I would put a round figure of €2,000 on it, because you will ultimately need to spend money on something else. Fogstar sell the Seplos pre-made for about €2,300 (depending on exchange rate) which is not bad when you consider that the WECO 5kWh battery is being sold for €2,000 for a third of the battery capacity. Pylontech have a slightly smaller rack battery for a little under €1,500. It can be a bit daunting building a battery, even with a kit supplied and you do take on the risk of damaging the battery, your inverter, or both, so caution is advised. I have spent hundreds more on tools and materials, but much of these are tools I wanted to buy anyway, such as hydraulic and RJ45 crimps. I needed. I spent a few hundred on wood for cabinets, but I have improved the part of my property the batteries will be located which is now dry and more pleasant to be in. I'll include these side details in the final video. I know DIY batteries are popular here amongst the enthusiasts, but I wouldn't say they are common, including the likes of the Seplos kits. I have a second one ordered which I will be collecting when I drive to Germany later this month. I plan to have a third battery before the end of the year. With the cabinets built, I might even sell the seplos kits and replace them with bare cells, BMS and balancers. Someone will be blessed with a bargain. I may even offer to hook the battery up if they are local enough to me. I'll see how things go. I'm enjoying the ride, challenging as it has been for a newbie.

@@GaryMeatsLife Thanks Gary for the detailed response. I'd love to know how its working for you so far and please create a video when you receive the 2nd one and expand the system. Alan

@@alanslattery5954I will do. I haven’t added anything new due to PC issues, but I’ve ordered a new PC to build yesterday and will be back up and running soon.

This is an easy fix, don't panic. You have a capacity warning because your cell capacity is 305Ah and your settings on the BMS are set to 290Ah. Once you change this in the BMS Studio, the warning will disappear. But I stress, it's not a warning you need to be concerned about. I haven't made a BMS Studio video yet, but if you need help, let me know. You will need to connect with a special RJ45 and change a couple of settings. Look at post #2 in this forum below. It was the info that moved me forward. Also check out post #11 for the parameters you should change. Read the whole thread and make sure you select the baud rate of 19200 when making the connection. This rate will also need to be changed on your inverter. If you have a solis inverter, my other video covers that. diysolarforum.com/threads/seplos-v3-bms-no-port-com-connection.85837/#post-1131983

Thank you

Please give me a link to that special rj45.thanks a lot!

@@banhvo4958 You need a USB to RS485 Converter for Modbus. Here is the one I used www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078X5H8H7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details You can cut one end off any internet (LAN) cable and connect pins 1,2 and 5 to connection B, A and GND in that order. This will let you connect the battery to your computer, selecting PORT 5 and the correct baud rate when making the connection. What is pin 1 you might ask? Look at the back of the LAN cable (the bit with no tab) and you will see pin 1 is the left wire. Pin 1 is Orange & White. Pin 2 is Orange. Pin 5 is Blue and White. A successful connection will give you a red power light and a flashing RXD light. Change Parameter line 89 and 90 to 305Ah. Change Parameter line 91 to 100Ah. Change Parameter line 102 to 56V. These are the main settings I recall changing on mine. Disclaimer: This is what worked for me. Follow any instructions at your own risk.

Thank you Gary!

That was my intention. Happy to help buddy!

Hi. The trick with the balance cables is to look at the length. One set is longer than the other and the longer set of course will go to the set of cells furthest from the connections, which is the "B" set of cells, which are 9-16. Each wire has a label which also tells you where they need to go. All wires on the balance cable go to the positive terminals with the exception of the 2 extra wires which go to negative 1 and negative 9. So, yes, most wires connect to the positive terminals. The temperature sensors connect to the negative terminals, as does the Active Balancer negative power wire. Good Luck with the build

I got 2 times b9-b16 ;) haha and now I am waiting the seller ship me correct one

so it seems to be common that they are not taking care to send correct ones with the box

Thank you. Recently learned about this. Always a good reminder.

2 comments in the one video :) . Again, I appreciate the comment and feedback. Would you apply the same restriction to applying salt to the meat? Are like likes of Dr. Ken Berry not carnivores because they add salt to their meat? Granted, I've never seen a lion whip out a sachet of salt or pepper and sprinkle it over the gazelle before tucking in. Lions are the best known carnivores, but even they sometimes eat grass and plants to obtain certain minerals and fibrous material. They are still carnivores, right? This is true of all other carnivorous species I can think of, so the line is not so autistic as you suggest. In reality, I call it carnivore-plus (though someone suggested carnivore-ish on another channel). My diet is almost exclusively animal based and with an amount of chocolate on par with the non meat content of a cup of coffee. I eat 2 squares of 85% chocolate most days. I enjoy it and it helps me stay on track. Using the term carnivore is intentional, as it is the term which brought me the very content I digested while preparing for the diet. Many of the content producers were "carnivore", but drank tea/coffee, ate ice-cream, drank juice and many other variants around an otherwise core carnivore diet. I would be doing people no favours if I was dishonestly reporting on my journey, or the results. I am being completely up-front here and I would argue that this content helps a lot more people than you might think it hinders. I am mere days away from 4 months on this journey and I am going strong. I have no ailments anymore and I am still realising that I no longer have certain ailments that were just in the background...such as eye twitching every few days, it no longer happens. Even my back pain is reducing, which I did not expect to happen, because that is a result of nerve damage. I haven't felt the need to burst into a store and raid the chocolate aisle just yet.

@@GaryMeatsLife you look like you are doing great on carnivore- be careful that any indulgences are gluten free (even trace amounts) or you will never get the full benefit of our ancestral diet. coffee, chocolate and nuts (peanuts are legumes not nuts) are not going to damage too much in the short run and probably have pleasurable connotations that you can work on breaking to keep the pleasure and drop the trigger. Once your gut is 100% healthy you will look back on those little indulgences with a different perspective and you will know yourself how great you feel every day without any external stimulants. Once you arrive at great gut health (which you are moving towards) anything which disrupts it will be unappealing to you. It is a journey and you are well on your way - good luck with your channel which seems to draw a lot of trolls so you must be doing something right!

@@theghostofJamesUganda Thanks for your well considered comment. You are spot on with your observations. I have been getting results wholly unexpected and I feel great for it. I simply couldn’t return to my old diet. It’s not worth the pain and discomfort I had daily, half of which I wasn’t aware of. I honestly don’t know what my diet will look like in 3,4,6 months time. It could full carnivore or it could be meat and fruit. As long as I can be healthy, feel good, have consistent energy and be around the 90kg mark, I will be a happy man. I’ll keep posting monthly and hopefully it keeps a few souls motivated and informed. Thanks again.

@@GaryMeatsLife When you go "full carnivore" if you have some wild sockeye salmon just before bed you will wake up with a big smile if you know what I mean ;-)

Yeah, very true. It's all great experience and makes it a little more interesting for me.

An alcoholic can try to moderately drink alcohol but I don't think that will work out too well. In the same context, sugar addicts will find it very difficult to moderate their carb intake. If anyone proposes that eating the crappy Standard American Diet in moderation is healthy than they need to do more research. The SAD diet is full of sugar, seed oils, toxins, etc.

@@patrickh709 Thanks for the comment and I largely agree with you. The SAD, or the diet largely shared by many nations is full of sugar, seed oils and toxins. However, I do think it's possible to moderate if you set your mind and fix it. For example; some on the carnivore diet have a coffee each day, or a tea, or like myself...a piece of chocolate and can do just fine like that. A little flexibility can make it easier to stick to a rigid diet. For some, they wouldn't have the will power and probably won't last on a carnivore style diet anyway. It's about being honest with yourself and what you are willing and able to do long term.

My latest video was published on Wednesday. I’m sure your transition will be simple. Good luck with it.

I mostly buy them at LIDL. Sometimes I cut my own if I buy a chuck from the butcher.

Thanks. It has to be sustainable, so this is my way of doing it.

@@GaryMeatsLife amazing u know ur down 33lb since u started great achievement

@@johnparker1434 Yeah, 15kg, or 33lbs, or 2.36st. Feeling the difference.

Yes, they are. Nothing healthy about them. For me, it's about finding what works for me and while a chip shop sausage is not a healthy snack, or meal, it helps me stick to the big picture. I do think I will cut these unhealth items out at some stage. This month has become more about testing my body responses to crap foods in small quantities. I even had a coke which had been sitting in the refrigerator for a week. More on that in the next video.

Thankfully it has not been very difficult for me. I consider myself lucky that I haven't suffered some of the initial side effects, such as keto-flu, or constipation. It's been quite smooth overall.