For anealling appropriate a decent size biscuit tin (metal) fill it full of nice clean DRY sand bury you hot pieces in the sand and cover with a couple of inches of sand and you have a nice cooling set up - vermiculite also works well

It's a double door onto a Juliet balcony I cannot even open them to get to any screws or anything

Hi, Just a few comments about the material. It is unlikely to be En24, certainly not by design. If it were a DIY project I suppose it really could be anything. En24T (aka 817M40) is a medium carbon alloy steel and usually sold in a heat treated condition - viz.the 'T' in En24T. As such it is a through-hardened material - usually used as is. A common material for steep taper tooling was En32 which is then case hardened. I bought a lot of 40/50 Int Tooling in the 70s - made by former Bristol--Erickson employees in the UK. I used to ask a lot of questions about what I was buying. The thread would not be hardened, which was important if a power drawbar was used. By copying a taper like you did, you will have avoided a common mistake. The tooling taper should be 'fast' - that is to say, by design, the male tool taper is steeper than the mating female spindle taper angle - bigger at the larger end. This is to keep the tooling location biased at the nose to prevent the tool rattling at the front. The poorly made example you have showed that clearly. Matching angles will tend to produce a tool that refuses to release cleanly. I hope this is useful.

Thanks Mister, very helpful !

Nice job there Paul. I have the same hearth bricks, and find they make a huge difference in what I can achieve with only a small torch.

Induction coil heater. Going to get something to do that. Had to use tungsten mason drill on a hardened piece, worked, but need another way.

nice video, thank you for sharing.

I think if it were too easy, we would choose another hobby :)

Hi Paul. I wish my lathe had a nice feed clutch like that. Mine just had a shear pin. When I first got the lathe I managed to shear it several times. It's just got an M3 bolt through it now 😂. That said I've not managed to shear one in ages. This video has given me some confidence to attempt a repair on a tapping head that has a bent shaft that is far too hard to machine. I looked at it a few years ago but put it to one side because I wasn't equipped to deal with it. I think I have everything I need now, so I may well have a go soon. Thanks 👍👍

A find a bit of gloop on the tap helps - Rocol RTD or suchlike.

Excellent video Paul. The M series Harrison's have the safety clutch on the feed shaft too.

Email sent

Thank you, I really like the way you use lots of wording specific to the task, it really help when going to the hardware shop!

Hi Paul, that was a well hardened adapter does make you wonder why they didn't check the taper before hardening. Interesting to see how little apparent force springs the clutch. Great video and a useful piece to have in your collection. Have agreat weekend!!

You turn a small job into a humongous job.🤣

Good work saving that adapter. You could do with a bigger tap wrench Paul, for more leverage, it's better on your hands. That clutch takes a Terry's pre unit 650 Triumph valve spring. I lost the drive while machining heavy cuts on my previous Harrison L5, the spring had collapsed. One of those fitted perfectly and worked spot on when needed, lol. Cheers Tony

A great save - potential scrap to useful tool - definitely worth it! Tenacity pays off again.

Nice save, great addition to the shop.

Hi Paul. It’s these side projects which exercise the brain and give you the chance to learn new skills without too much monetary pain. Well done on achieving an excellent result. 👏👏👍😀

Great build Paul, you are becoming quite a toolmaker! A tip on the annealing of that part, I know you wanted the small area to soften, but you should heat the whole part evenly 450-550F then bring up the end to non mag. Prevents distortion, internal stresses, CRACKS , slows cooling, and all sorts of bad metalurgy... glad it worked out well for you.

nice one Paul i never carshed my Harrison feed, but will check that feed clutch now for future reference.👍👍 atb Kev

Great job,GREAT VIDEO. Thank you and take good care of yourself. Kimber.

Go buy a cheap MAPP torch, the cylinders are cheap, and you get small pieces to cherry red with ease.

It turned out well in the end. I wonder if you would get even more heat into the work with two more sides of insulating brick i.e. top and end. Efficient looking clutch.

I’m kinda in a similar position. Needing to turn down a case hardened shank. I am going to try to turn it down with a CBN insert. I’m looking into the diamond tip as well as the ceramic. My machines capable, not sure if I am. Read, read and watch some KZfaq University, and read some more. I was betting on a “removable shank” but it didn’t play in my favor. So I’m left with either cutting it off and threading it/pinning it. Or turning it down to a R8 or straight shank to be used in a collet. I believe it is case hardened. So this will be fine… Probably..

That was a nice save of the adapter Paul. You wonder how they got the taper so far out in the first place. I buy adapters from Cutwel in Heckmondwike when they have a sale on. Although before I bought the mill I checked on prices and 30 taper are considerably more expensive than 40 taper for some reason. Its the main reason I went for a mill with ISO40 tapers. I'm not sure of 30 taper prices when they have a sale, but I was paying less than £20 last time I got some. And those are balanced to 15,000rpm, so good for our sort of use.

Excellent save Paul! Phil

I think that jobber drills (or jobber-length drills) are for general purpose drilling and are somewhere around 8x to 14x the diameter of the drill bit. They have longer flutes than mechanics-length (also called maintenance-length drills) drill bits and screw machine drill bits (which are shorter than the mechanics-length drill bits). The shorter the drill bit, the stiffer it will be. The "longest" drill bits are extended-length drill bits, but I've also heard them called aviation drill bits. Of course, I'm certainly *not* a drill bit expert! ;)

Very nice work sir. I’m sure I’ll have in the future similar adapters to make. Thanks

nice job

I'd Love to see how that slip clutch in constructed internally. I've been wanting to make one for my import lathe

Took a bit of work, but now you've got a usable adapter.

Very well done, Paul. That was a lot of work. Sure, you could have bought one, but if all we did was buy things, then why do we have all these machines, right?

thank god for clutches! sometimes drilling nasty hard stuff i have had success with a good quality masonry bit, cheers Paul.👍👍

A lot of work to make the adpater fit. Very well done. I am amazed the Harrison had the clutch which worked. Wow, a big relief. Dave.

What a lot of faffing about, even if you have all the tools!

Does the job nicely 👌. Ref pronouncing "Kenya", its always been "Kenn Ya" to me, no idea if it's due to hailing from the Black Country?

It seems much simpler when you disregard tpi altogether and just use the pitch. Pitch is simply the distance between the threads and the lead is pitch x number of starts usually 1. For all threads the lathe is set for the lead. Cut one lead and then advance one pitch on the compound slide. Rinse repeat for the number of starts using the same number at the same position on the thread dial for any thread. Tpi just confuses things and is only a number to enable calculating the pitch which is actually useful.

100% of something you dont try will never work

What I think is magic about creating storage space, is how quickly it's filled :)

Very good. Lidl Parkside battery drill? I have one too, had it five years. Never misses a beat. As good as one I'd have paid twice as much for. I thought you could maybe put wooden dowels in the shelves so you can place the vice etc over them to stop them falling off. Not that they could. That line of thinking comes from years spent on ships.

Looks good 😀

I pronounce Kenya the ‘modern way’ Tanz in ‘ere was, sometime around 2007 ish, a suntan parlour on the first roundabout on the A61 heading north out of Leeds city centre. It’s quite probably the greatest ever name to appear on a shop sign.

Hi Paul. I have been putting off adding much needed shelves to my workshop for far too long. I suspect your timely video will spur me into action. Nice result. 👏👏👍😀

IMHO, all lathe and milling machine tools and accessories should be kept in mobile cabinets, which protects them from chips and dust. Heaviest items at the bottom, lightest at the top, all on pull-out sliding shelves. Frequently used, heavy accessories like mill vices can be kept on top towards the back for balance.Another mobile cabinet holds wrenches, hammers, files and another cabinet holds all bolts, screws and associated tools. In this way, the floor can be kept meticulously clean. I also have a benchtop cabinet for measuring, drawing and scribing tools. All benches are mobile as are mech. hacksaws, bandsaws and shapers. Lathe and milling machine are on plinths of large concrete pavers. Mobility is everything!

Hi Paul, Good bit of house keeping looks just right, well done. No idea how to pronounce Kenia, sorry!! pronounciation is always a real minefield!! Have a great weekend!!

Hiya Paul Good to hear that you appreciate the input on the gloves. My wife found them for me and clued me in to their superiority :) It amuses me that it was wour wife, in turn, who discovered my recommendation and passed the clue to you :) By our (spouse's) power combined, we shal conquer the world (of reusable disposable gloves). /G edit: And you are welcome for the timber on behalf of my nation - greetings from Danmark :)

do you have a link to those gloves ? cheers ben

👍👍👍👍nice one Paul i just need room to find to fit a shelf🤣🤣👍👍 atb Kev

Very nice work sir