03:30. for that metal piece cover... it goes on the filter canister grove side

I apologize for the late reply, I’ve had a crazy last few months moving from Alaska back to Texas. I’m sure you’ve probably already figured this out, but for future viewers I’ll go ahead and respond and pin your comment. At approximately 2:07 I show the TDC mark on the Harmonic Balancer. I’ve painted mine with an orange paint pen to make it easier to see. The harmonic balancer will have a straight line with TDC stamped into it next to the line. There isn’t a pointer or alignment mark, the TDC mark just needs to pointed directly up at the 12’oclock position. You can eyeball it and verify that you are indeed TDC by the movement on the valve rockers. If rockers are all tight, you haven’t reached TDC. If there are loose valve rockers, compare them to the notes in the description to see which set of valves are ready to be adjusted. Thanks for your engagement!

I just used a pry bar with a vacuum cap over the end and pried on the timing lugs on the crankshaft pulley

I apologize for the late response. Thank you for following along. It is a messy job, but sure does beat paying a shop to do it.

Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it!

Yes sir, check out this link. This will break down service intervals and the factory recommended fluids/capacities. www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/6.7-cummins-maintenance-schedule.html

It’s held up really well. I’m planning to do a follow up video about how it drives after 6 months to give my final thoughts. As of right now the truck drives much better. The stabilizer didn’t remove all of the shakes but it did have a significant impact. I believe what is left is just a product of a 3500 and M/T tires.

@@AllAmericanGarage reservoir fox shocks on the front may help.

Yes, the crush washer for the drain plug. I’d be careful attaching to a ratchet. It’s extremely easy to over-tighten with a ratchet. I ran my torque wrench on 18ft-lbs, once it was torqued I checked it by hand. I was still able to get about a quarter turn out of it even once torqued.

@@AllAmericanGarage Well our vehicle has the same design. I am unable to screw it on until it reaches 18 ft.lb. just with my bare hand. You must be a lot stronger than I am. And a torque wrench IS a ratchet, is it not?

I didn’t even consider that, I appreciate the input and praise!

There isn’t a gasket for this particular cover, the integrated O-Ring in the cover is meant to function as a stand alone.

You are right, the 2.5L is an option for the RAV4’s. However, depending on year and trim of the vehicle, there are also 2 2.0L options for the vehicle.

@@AllAmericanGarage In 2009 in the USA there was the 2.5 liter four cylinder and a V6 option.

It does make a lot of noise. My trucks straight piped with a Dual Disk, so it’s already annoyingly loud to most. It doesn’t bother me. I intend to publish a video at the end of the month with my thoughts on it. I’ll try to capture the noise.

It does not

Sure blame it on your helper... That wasn't one of your kids was it? I admit, I did that myself once but it was only 2 or 3 quarts that went straight through the engine when I realized what I did. Oh well, I'm 75 and that was the first time I did something like that.

@@njsongwriter lol I am his kid. I think that was a sarcastic joke since I threw him under the bus in this video😅

Is the turbo spooling? With the EGR deleted you should be able to hear it pretty well. How are you identifying that you no power from the turbo? Is it based off the factory boost gauge on your dash?

Turbo actuator is likely stuck. It's fairly common. City Diesel makes an actuator replacement kit. It's fairly simple to do from the passenger side fender well.

I had code U010C (Lost communication to Turbo). Symptoms are low boost until 4th gear. EB eventually stopped working. Test 4 wire plug at turbo actuator. Pin 1 = 12.6 volts, Pin 2 and 3 = 2.5 volts (+/- 0.8 volts is fine) key on and 120ohms key off. Pin 2 and 3 are your can bus communication wires to your ECM. Pin 4 is ground/return. If yours plug to actuator test OK then pull actuator. Make sure you drain your coolant first. Check by hand that your turbo gear/lever moves from closed to open with little effort. If it moves freely then 97minitaco is correct. City Diesel actuator is the way to go. If the turbo lever is hard to move/doesn't move you need a new turbo.

@@aholmes447if the lever is hard to move why not just replace the actuator vice the entire turbo?

​@andymike6575 The lever gear is on the turbo side and runs inside of the turbo. The actuator is the motor side and splines on to the gear/lever. There may be a way to disassemble the entire turbo and clean it to get the vanes unstuck (which would free up the lever to turn freely). Everyone I know that has a stuck lever gear on the turbo side replaces the turbo. Fortunately, mine moved freely. So just replacing the actuator fixed my issue. Unfortunately City Diesel was 5 weeks on backorder. So, I had to go with a cheap Amazon one. So far it's holding up though.