Thank you!

Thanks for the comment. That's a great idea. I used to do that, but it was quicker to use the same tool to take them all out at the same time, and it's not very dusty where I work.

Sorry to hear that. Is the light on the power brick green after charging? I assume you tried pressing and holding the power button until the screen turned on? The unit may be defective, and will require a replacement.

Hello, unfortunately I don't see a way of lowering the brake light without replacing the rear fender and extending the brake wiring.

Hello Kat, thanks for the question. The C100 has mounting points for a front basket. I haven't tested it out personally, but it looks like the basket may interfere with the front wires. A solution would be to untie the cable management, and route the cabling around the basket. I hope this helps.

@@ColinLeung Thank you 🙏🏼

Hello Gill, thanks for sharing your experience. I did not notice much of a wobble with the stem fully tightened. I recall it feeling less stable with the stem fully extended though, and personally prefer solid stems since I've had them drop on me from being semi-loose in the past.

I believe so, but cannot comment on the longevity of the product. It has an advertised range of up to 15mi, and you can typically expect half. 7.5 mi is more than your 2mi ride, so range should not be a concern. Please keep in mind that batteries wear out, and may last 1+ years depending on use and number of charges.

Hello, do you have a picture of it? If it's like this listing (amzn.to/4eUahII) then one black and red wire with the plug connects to the battery. The other black and red wire will connect to the black and red cable out of the controller in the yellow box. Reference the red and black cable at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nt2TfM2InKqWYoE.htmlsi=pM5Baqu4i8acnBGz&t=333

Yes, the seat post can be raised. If you look at this timestamp you can see how far the seat post goes in. Thanks kzfaq.info/get/bejne/npuRZrOdnJfXYYU.htmlsi=m8K_QuzidurTwJFM&t=157

Hello, I did not change any of the settings to get 28km top speed in the red mode. What max speed are you getting? Perhaps there is a speed limit that needs to be changed through the app for your specific model.

@@ColinLeung i just reached the 28km on the app thank you

@@AA-wo9ri I'm glad you got it resolved

@@ColinLeung one last thing i want to use this this for fun do you think this scooter is enjoyable and suitable for me

@@AA-wo9ri Yes it can be fun if you set your expectations. It's zippy for flat or curvy urban settings, but cannot take bumpy trails well.

It doesn’t in real life, it’s just the way the camera records it.

@@Shythatguy oh ok

@@WWEisthebest @shythatguy is correct. The scooter's LED display has a certain refresh rate that appears constant to the human eye. The camera captures 30 frames per second for example, and is able to pick up the flashes. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flicker_fusion_threshold

Thank you!

You're welcome. Thanks for sharing your experience with the C100, and I'm glad you're enjoying it!

Hello Daniel, I have not tested the front basket on the Discover 2, so I cannot say with certainty that it will work without modification. Looking at the cabling, mounting points and basket, it would appear that the cable management spiral ties can be loosened, and front brake line routed on the side of the basket and rear brake line pushed behind the basket. If there are still issues turning then you can disconnect the brake lines from the calipers, and reroute the brake lines through the basket. This will require rebleeding the brake lines since it's hydraulic. I hope this helps

@@ColinLeung Yes it does and wud end up being more work than I wud want to do on my own. I only want a professional bike tech working on my hydraulic brakes. Self assembly with a basket isn't going to work for me. THANKS for the feedbsck.

@@danielbecker9836 You're welcome

Thank you!

Thanks for letting me know. I sold the scooter, so I'm unable to try it

Sorry to hear that. Is it a hinge bolt that threads into the frame? You can try using Locktite Red to create a permanent hold onto the bolt.

Unfortunately I did not, and sold the ebike shortly after installing due to limited garage space. The range is dependent on the battery.

Are you referring to which brake lever controls the front or rear brakes? Thanks for the comment.

I don't recall a beeping sound from the bluetooth. Does it beep when you turn the scooter on, or when connected?

Hello Larry, I did not notice any jerkiness when riding. Are you gradually twisting the throttle? You can look through your programming settings, and match the ones that I had to see if it helps. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6l2fdOi0p2XmGQ.htmlsi=etDASN4hVSL0ji2T&t=759 If that doesn't work then I'd suggest reaching out to Vetanya. Thanks

You're welcome! The handlebar can be swapped on most bikes. Just make sure the handlebar diameter matches your bike stem, and shifters/brake levers.

I was on the highest gear. The gears only limit the max speed, and does nothing to torque like a manual car. Thanks.

Haha. My kids have done more damage to the flooring than the ebike.

You don't have to get the OEM smart ones. NGK or Denso should work. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebWUdtWntqm1eok.htmlsi=nR2_RN1tBZXu9ZJF I used (3) NGK LKR7BGP-8 G-Power Platinum Spark Plugs (95983 G-Power Platinum) amzn.to/3VJbauO

Thanks again! ​@@ColinLeung

You're welcome!

Thanks for the comment. I've noticed some scooter brands have the same, or similar products, but rebranded. It's possible that Gyroor does that too.

Sorry to hear that. I did not experience the fork wanting to spin when I let go of the handlebar. Was the fork bent during transport, or handlebar or fork not aligned properly?

Sorry, I checked their affiliate website and they don't have any current codes on the S2. Only $30 off the S2 Pro with code DRS3.

I'm glad it worked!

I appreciate it!

You're welcome. I hope he enjoys it!

It shouldn't matter as the brake levers/sensors connected to the controller are the same for both v and cantilever brakes.

Thanks for the comment. You can always paint over a color or two, so it's not a complete rainbow if you really wanted that pattern.

Thanks for sharing. You're welcome

Thanks for the comment. I've found that most adjustable height handlebars become loose over time, or wobble causing a safety hazard.

Sounds right

Hello Eileen, adjusting derailleurs can be difficult as there are a lot of parts to factor. I haven't had a chance to look for a video explaining how to adjust it, but will try to explain over text referencing this rear derailleur image. www.sefiles.net/images/library/site/pict_rear-der_f.gif 1) Ensure the rear derailleur is installed properly. It should be flush against the derailleur hanger, and I recall having to push something in this video to fully screw it in. 2) On the rear shifter by the handlebar press the lever numerous times to release all tension from the line. You may be gear 1, or the highest number depending how your shifter is labeled. 3) Looking at the rear derailleur cable there will be cable adjustment barrels from the shifter to the rear derailleur. Turn all of them clockwise to release all slack from the cable. 4) Using an allen key loosen the bolt at the bottom of the rear derailleur holding the derailleur cable. Pull and hold the cable towards the front of the bike to pick up any cable slack, and retighten the bolt. The goal is to have some slack that we'll pick up with the rear derailleur adjustment barrel, but get rid of any excessive slack. 5) There are two (hi and low) screws on the side of the rear derailleur. They will set the lower and upper limits of the derailleur, so the chain doesn't slip off. Looking from the pulley at the back of the bike turn both clockwise, or counter clockwise to see which controls the lower limits. The pulley will move left or right. Adjust the lower until the rear derailleur holds the chain without slipping off. The derailleur pully should line up with the lowest cassette. If the lower limit is too high then it won't stay on the lowest cassette, and try to jump to the next cassette, so you'd have to loosen the lower limit. 6) Push the shifter lever one click to the next gear. This should be #2, or the second gear from the highest gear depending how your shifter is labeled. 7) With the rear wheel off the ground turn the pedals to rotate the rear wheel. The rear derailleur should not shift. If it does then there's too much tension in the line, and slack would need to be removed. See #4. 8) Turn the derailleur cable adjustment barrel counterclockwise in 1/4 turn increments to increase the tension in the line while spinning the wheel until the chain shifts to the next cassette. Looking from the back the pulley should line up with the 2nd cassette, or be very close. 9) Try shifting up through all gears first, and down through all gears. If it's trying to jump to the next gear turn the adjustment barrel clockwise in approximately 1/8 turn increments to release tension in the line. If it's not going to the next gear then turn the adjustment barrel in counterclockwise in approximately 1/8 turn increments to increase tension. Repeat several times until you can go up and down in all gears without it skipping. 10) At the highest gear adjust the hi limit screw, so the chain doesn't slip off. Similar to the lower adjustment screw. I hope this helps. I found this video, but haven't had time to watch it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9GKq7N6v5fSl40.htmlsi=i6eqcCx3tbM1SfLt

Sounds good!

Oh, if you're in the SF Bay areas I'm planning to sell this exact scooter for $250.

Also, the ring bell thingy will also fall off after a while. I had over 7000km on my good bike, but it got stolen. So I bought a new one, but it was ip54 and got destroyed by light rain even if IP52 should survive rain droplet. So, best to always make sure you get an IP56 bike