@mrmusclecarsuspect5362 yeah reason for returning the set I got. They looked sketch like they'd rolled around on the ground and in boxes for a while. Wasn't willing to test.

@MatlasDI yea. I've never had a bad experience like this with ebey but never again. The seller first agreed to oay for damages, but he requested a bad rating removed before helping, so he was just trying to get bad review removed and mot help. I had to spend ojt of my poket agsin for another transmission

@jjequihua8842 Before teardown, I still had the grimmspeed topmount that was modified for speed density. It did well and honestly felt more responsive in daily driving than the front mount, likely due to the shorter piping. I have a different front bumper on the outback, so I'll be going custom with this next setup to limit having to chop that bumper up. I've seen people run various front mounts without having to do a ton of work. I'd just be mindful during of where the charge piping comes out of the core. That's typically the issue rather than fitting the core itself due to the huge foglight housings protruding from the backside of the bumper 👍

@beck4218 If you haven't seen my video of teardown on my outback, that car had a shattered flexplate. I haven't seen a torque converter itself physically break outside of normal lock up issues, etc. That's crazy.

@@op170 car uses a tomei unequal length header.

@@bedevil1 🤣

Got the kns/dba 4000 rears, so they just use the oem legacy/outback rear shoes. Fastwrx.com has everything you're after 🤙

avojdm.com/bp-legacy-sports-grille-pre-facelift/ this should be the one (says WON'T fit jdm in the comments) but I got mine from their ebay store iirc. 🤙

Not required for the swap. My wheels would contact my inner trailing arm in the rear due to size and offset, so I use a small spacer for clearance.

You can change it with the transmission in the car, you just have to drop the pan and take out the valve body. 👌

So heavy lol glad I won't be doing one again for a while 🤣

@@MatlasDIhey Matias how can we contact you do you have a email

Thanks, unfortunately I am back to the 9 to 5 😆 🤣

Had access to ssm3, so went in and reset memory 2, then just standard driving, mild throttle allowing it to shift on its own for a couple drives.

@@MatlasDI thanks for the reply dude!! So I gotta take it to a shop I guess for that. I have an Obd II scanner that can clear trouble codes but I’m pretty sure this is beyond its capabilities. My dumbass just installed a new valve body without realizing I’d have to deal with the computer.

@Libroerina a lot of people don't reset learning, but I would recommend to after replacement. Probably won't hurt anything, but won't relearn to the best of its capabilities.

@@MatlasDI thank you so much for the advice 🙏

Miss you guys too 😢 ❤️

I believe she is in the high 300s now.

I'm not sure. Haven't heard from him in a while. I think he just went back to focusing on his normal job.

They recommend blasting it if possible, but going on almost 2 years and I've had zero issues with any of these parts. No undershield on the car as well. The scotch bright worked well. If you have access to sand blasting or aluminum oxide blasting, then go that route, but at home methods for that make a massive mess..

@@MatlasDI Yeah your stuff came out mint! I don’t know if scotch brute will cut it on cast iron Speedtech manifold, maybe 80 grit sand paper? Or you think red scotch brute pads?

@murk1352 I'd try with the pads made for steel. I think that is red, yeah. 🤙

@@MatlasDI Yeah I think it’ll be fine? 😂 You’re not going to see it, I just wanted to protect it, same with the turbine housing, it will have a blanket on it. I could buy some aluminum oxide & a hand sand blaster. But like you said, that shit will be everywhere! I should have just had Speedtech do it, but I wanted a different color than black & I still had to do my turbine housing anyway. I hope it comes out good, the cars fast but it’s a show car too, a lot of titanium hardware & carbon on the car. Guess I’m gonna have to cross my fingers on this one! Thanks for getting back to me, I appreciate it….💪🏻🏁

@murk1352 no problem man, wish you the best 🤙

Yeah TLDR 100% 🤣

Ok.

It's a built 5eat from level 10 transmission. High stall torque converter, upgraded valve body, ported front pump assembly and upgraded frictions and irons.

@@MatlasDI sweet build. wish there was more love for the 5eat out there. Probably wasn’t cheap either!

Hey Paul, that can be a little tough, being that the issue is intermittent. Those year ranges had a faulty torque converter that they did a part supercession for, iirc. But since I'm assuming it's a cvt, I don't really have good advice for self diagnosis of an issue like that, and it may be a lesser headache to have it diagnosed at a dealer. I'd double-check that it is transmission/drivetrain related and not a dirty/ faulty maf or o2 sensor.

No, it's pretty simple, though. Just tapping the buttons lets you set min max warnings. Not too much else to it.

Nope, it ran perfectly fine outside of the noise of the plate tapping the back of the engine.

Still lookin good! Might need something for the neon if I decide to keep it 😉👌

Yeah all sketch.

I made a few other changes at the time, since these are quite a bit stiffer than the bc springs they came with, but comfortable when correctly set up on the street, I think 10k/10k or 10k/8k would be a really nice street setup on this car.

Ok I’m on a Jetta diesel going from 7-6 the bc came with to 6-5 swift upgrade. Ordered them a couple of days ago hoping to get a little bit of softness back , also going from 225 40 19 to 215 45 18 to get a little more softness and a bit of mileage back too.

Same fender width and suspension as the wagon, so Same spec is fine.

What are the specs? And how much did you roll your fenders?

@aldob25 These were 18x8.5+35 They did stick out a little bit, and with the 245s I rolled each fender, and gave them a very mild pull. It isn't so much the top of the fender area, but more so, the door arch area for the rear, just due to how the suspension moves.

Some kits will route like that, depending on what you have. 🤙

I'm not sure of the exact operating voltage, so I can't say yes or no. I'd say it's probably safer to use less, Iirc some of these operate as low as 5v.

I do all of that, yes. But currently, due to space and time restraints, I've paused things for now. If/when things change, I'd make an announcement about it. 🤙

Nah, I was actually going to write an update on that. Bulbs had flickering issues for a bit. Thought it was an issue on my part with the connection, then one bank on the passenger side bulb went out, so it was only illuminating half. Further research on the brand I found it doesn't appear they make their own products. The marking on these are actually from a different company entirely, just rebranded. Further checks and research.... Chinese rebrand. Do not recommend. They were very bright, that's about all I'll say about them. Stick to a good hid kit, or leds like morimoto/ diode dynamics. I will also add I did not try to contact them for warranty, so I can't fully state if it would have been taken care of by them or not. This was a product test/ review with products provided at no cost by them. I just didn't want to mess with it and switched back to companies I've used in the past after finding out the products I was sent aren't actually manufactured by them. 🤙

Nice tip 🫡🫡

Very fun comparison 🤙

Thanks man, everything was installed prior to tuning, but I'm also on hybrid speed density on this vehicle. I don't normally recommend full atmospheric bov's unless you're on some form of speed density tune.

Yea that's what i was figuring. Appreciate it man miss your vids!@@MatlasDI

@ryandrews9612 thanks dude! Miss making em. Hope to get things in order to be able to start working on some stuff again soon 😢

Yea man looking forward to your added shenanigans! Take care man@@MatlasDI