The info your needing is in part 1, starts around 12:17 in that vid. Basically I ground the bottom of it to remove the roller and then used alot of heat, while putting what was left of the detent in the vice and using a punch on the hinge to drive the hinge part away from the remaining detent.

@@DoubleRRestorations thanks for the info you made it look easy hope it goes that way for me too!

@christopherhuot2826 Its a cool tool for sure.

I just decided to use it at full strength

@frankkennedy5361 Thank you, and thanks for watching.

It started life as a Parts Tree from Auto Twiler. I modified it into the door lift. I have a few videos of putting it together on the channel. These doors are so heavy. You are correct, its very difficult to do with just a jack.

Very true. Thanks for watching

Good luck on your search. Either car would make a great project!

Someone had definitely been into one of these before.

@@DoubleRRestorations The new seals are definitely a pain in the but to install.

@CamaroMan79 Lots of patience for sure.

Thanks for watching.

Not sure I follow on what part your wanting to remove. You could adapt an amber led into the housing, either on the stand portion or under the mirror easily.

Yes! Thats usually how I buy it. I just keep a clean spray bottle handy to pour it in when needed.

Thankfully for guys like us restoring these cars, they are reproducing alot of the parts we need.

Good tip. Thanks for sharing.

Probably, but the clarity of the clear lens is also gone. The replacements are nice too. Well worth it imo.

Hope you get your car back on the road and get to feeling better

I'll have to look at mine with a straight edge. I have one door that is original here in the garage. I know there is some crown, but will have to check. Send me an email and I can send you some pics. My email address is [email protected]

Its amazing when we take this stuff apart we always say "Ill remember", then later we are like, 'how did this go?' Lol. Glad it helped.

Thanks 👍

Not sure I follow. Are you talking about the 12 pin connection for the cluster?

Yes. I have since found those pins and have fixed it. I de-pinned and replaced the pins. Thank you for your reply.

When I did my 81 there was some witness marks where the old hinges used to sit, not sure if they visible or not. The metal was slightly pitted in this area. I would try to get the centered for the most movement as possible, I usually concentrate on the door to quarter and rocker first. Small adjustments and alot of patience. I will keep two bolt semi snug and loosen one bolt to help in slighty moving the door so you dont over compensate and lose your starting point.

Glad it helped

Glad the video helped!

Its a degreaser. Its supposed to be safe and can be diluted if needed

Glad it helped. Will definitely wear a better mask for protection.

Glad you like them! Should have some new vids released soon.

Yes, absolutely. These were items that he already bought and started installing before reaching out to me. An updated wiring harness would have addressed alot of issues I ran into.

Sounds like a great project. Ive started back on mine. I hope to stay on it till I finish now.

Very true! With these old cars its a balancing act.

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. Life does get in the way. We are back in the garage, and I have finally started making Camaro content again. It's taking a bit to get everything rolling again. My daughter Sam bought a wrecked Mustang, and we are also still finishing it up. We are almost done with it, so we will have a 10 video series coming out on it as well. Im hoping to retire in the next 5 years myself.

Glad to hear the video helped.

Yes I did. Thanks.

I just had this one car in helping a friend out. I normally work on 2nd gen Camaros.

Thanks Jim. I have several vids I have been working on. I hope to start releasing them soon

Yes it did, I left it in there a few days checking in periodically

@@DoubleRRestorations I'm trying to soften the handles on some old fully forged camp axes/hatchets. They're from the mid 1970s, so no clue what type of rubber the over-mould handles are made from. Simple Green is a lot cheaper, and less strong than a 3:1 mixture of 90% isopropyl alcohol to wintergreen oil. Much appreciated. I hope it works. After I'm done softening them, I was going to use J-B Weld Black RTV to seal up some cracks in the handle rubber. If you have a different suggestion, let me know. Thanks again.

Sounds like plan, let me know how it goes. I did put some silicone paste on these boots afterwards and they still look new.

@@DoubleRRestorations one of the black rubber handles is completely detached from the steel shaft. That handle is in worse shape. The other handle, on the nicer camp axe/hatchet (it's a Craftsman 4810 made by Vaughan - 1080 high carbon steel) is still adhered very strongly to the steel shaft. Hopefully the Simple Green won't eat away the original adhesive from the rubber to the metal. Even if it does, I still have to adhere the rubber handle of one hatchet to the steel shaft. I figure I'll rough up the steel shaft with some low grit sandpaper paper, or a steel brush on a Dremel Tool. Most people recommend cyanoacrylate to attach the rubber handles to the steel shaft. I've got Loctite blue crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), E6000, and regular J-B Weld. I figure I'll start with the E6000, because it's what I have the most of. There's also a special method for rehandling golf clubs that works quite well, but the materials are expensive. I'm trying to keep this inexpensive, since these hatches have more sentimental value, than real value. I'm concerned if I use regular J-B Weld, the handles will never come off again! That stuff is very strong. I think the E6000 is the right place to start. I'm not sure I trust crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), even though that's what's recommended.

Thank you

Thank you, Im not sure about the purpose of the spring. Maybe to help with alignment.

Glad to hear. Sounds like a great project!

Glad to hear. Thanks