I’ve got a Japanese tool dealer that specializes in saws but I may start selling tools on my website soon.

Where are you located in the world?

@@CowDogCraftWorks I'm in Sweden, so a European store would be preferable. But if shipping costs are not too high I could order from other parts of the world as well. Amazon has Swedish and German sites but I did not find this kind of blade there. Perhaps I'm not using the correct terms to search for it. I've been using search words such as replacement tang blade Japanese saw.

@@Ianssoniihonestly I would check out Kurashige tool. They ship directly from Japan. I order a lot of stuff from them and they do have quality saws. Although I believe a lot of them have handles. I’m actually getting a batch of saws in myself. E-mail me [email protected] and if shipping isn’t too oppressive I could probably make something work for you.

Yeah. Think of hitting it on the opposite end of installation side.

Honestly? Fairly inexpensive. The trigger mechanism is from neptonics. It was under a hundred bucks… granted I made this like four years ago. I got the reel from them too and that was fairly inexpensive. Of course… the tools to build it aren’t necessarily cheap. It really depends on your hardware kit… definitely check out neptonics for that.

@@CowDogCraftWorksill definitely check them out! I’ve been thinking of building my own speargun after watching your videos, since my buddy is a carpenter i guess me and him can work on one! Would be great to send u the final results!

😂

Oh yeah the guy I made it for was very happy to point that out. 😂 luckily you can just unscrew it and flip it around.

Unfortunately I didn’t make it for myself so I don’t really know how it goes.

​@@CowDogCraftWorks Ah too bad, I personally would have asked for feedback to the person I gave this gun.

It’s been a long time since I’ve made it so I’d have to go measure it. If I had to guess though… the head is probably like a 10x8 face and 12” long. Handle is probably 48”.

Sure is.

The epoxy maintained its adhesion but… do not place anything hot on the epoxy without a trivet of some kind… wife let a citronella candle burn to the base of the can and well… it created problems.

Thank you. So for the most part they’re almost all either made from Japanese white oak (kashi) or Japanese red oak (hon akagashi). I do know a guy that lives in Canada that cuts his own dai from Osage orange. Suzuki tool is a great resource for getting Japanese tools in the states. Thanks for watching. ❤️

Neptonics website

::responds to this impaled by thirty chisels of various lengths:: 😵 💀

That’s awesome to hear. Thank you for watching. 🙇🏻

Thank you!

What’s that now?

The top is “butt joined” for lack of a better term to the torsion box style base. So there’s nothing restricting movement. It expands and contracts freely along its width.

Niiiice.

You’re welcome!

No.

Thanks my dude!

My only caution with a card scraper is the flexibility across its length. You want to make sure the relief is even across the full width of the block. I wouldn’t worry about oil clogging your sandpaper. Once the oil cures in the block it’s a bit of a non issue.

@@CowDogCraftWorks okay I'll be careful of that.

Could be a few things. For starters it sounds like your depth of cut is too deep. The blade should barely protrude from the body. If you’re sighting down the bottom toward the mouth it should resemble a thin hair at the mouth. You should be able to take effective passes first without the chip breaker.

Came out great. I’ve got a video on the full build on my channel.

I can’t get this thing to shake if I tried. It’s a brick. I am considering taking the leg chop off and replacing it with a bench hook. Since this video I’ve gotten really into Japanese tools and the leg chop, while useful at times, tends to get in the way.

I have a variety of stones but my low grit stones 3000 and under are nsk diamond resins. Not particularly practical from a cost perspective but they do cut very fast.

@@CowDogCraftWorks Those are expensive indeed, but resin bonded diamond stones are great. Fast cutting speed and flatness of diamond stones but the feel of a waterstone.

@@michael.knightso these don’t stay particularly flat between uses. But they cut very very fast. For more flatness the naniwa diamonds are excellent.

One of my favorites from the group

Awesome! Tag me on Instagram or on here when you get them up and running. Love to see it.

I will👍 ill make a reel about it I think. But not a guide 😅 just some visuals

Hell yes

Thank you! Hope it’s an excellent reference source for those looking to break into j tools or those looking to level up to intermediate practice.

No not particularly! Although from what I understand in Japan… and even china and Korea… they’re pretty indifferent about what material it actually is made from. They just use what’s laying around. Actually when I buy high end tools… or new old stock tools they often come in a wooden box that’s made from paulownia… which is similar to balsa almost, might even be softer.

Much appreciated. I will say: I have been getting exponentially slower with each video after this.

I believe I linked it in the right corner of the screen in an info card but Jim Blauvelt’s lecture from the Maine Japanese woodworking festival gives a great run down of the chip breaker.

And you will also see me in the background of the video creeping around getting knowledge. 🤣

This is the process for setting up a new plane… so… if you’re setting up a lot of new planes… that’s kind of your answer. But practically speaking what you’re referring to is the maintenance aspect. You dont need to tap out often. I believe in the video I mention that you only do it when your ito-ura gets wasted away from sharpening the bevel and you end up in the hollow itself. That takes a while… it depends on how much you sharpen and how much you work. I’m a fairly avid hobbyist and I’m tapping out maybe once a year as a maintenance measure. What you will do more often is tune the bottom of the dai itself, but once that’s established it’s a couple swipes here and there. Three points of contact is harder to maintain but a standard two points of contact smoother doesn’t take much to keep running. If I’m planing a lot and for a while I’ll have a couple planes set up and I’ll check the bottoms periodically because of humidity changes through the day. But any actual scraping is minimal at best.

Thanks for watching. Like I said in the video… definitely pick up the literature. I believe that the literature combined with the video will be a very powerful resource for most.

@@CowDogCraftWorks I've got the Odate book on order and will definitely keep an eye out for the other one. Thanks!

@@ellinwoodworksI’ve actually got the brotherton book linked in the description and pinned comment. Unfortunately for my wallet it’s not an Amazon link 😂 but it’s available at Hida tool online. I believe I also added the Japanese books as well but those come from a store in Japan.

It dents the iron and displaces it which causes the hard steel’s shape to change. Also the hammer is not sharp. It’s a cross peen that is rounded and polished. Closer to a planishing hammer.

Appreciate it my dude!

Actually a quick one I picked up for kiwa recently… not from the book… but get you a luthiers reamer for that side hole.

Thanks for the kiwa tip. I have ongoing issues with mine and I'm the sole guy here using Kannas ... So self learning . thanks

@@dirdick43 also the other kiwa tips that were given to me was to open the mouth up a little further than you would with a smoother and the surface at that hole needs to be as smooth as you can get it in both directions. Any little splinters or choppy spots will cause shavings to hang up and jam. With all this being said… kiwa at any size are notoriously fussy.

Desmond King includes some details on setting up a kiwa kanna in his book “Shoji and Kumiko Design: Book 1 The Basics.” The first third of the book is all about setting up kanna.

Thank you!

Hell yeah. Yours was a little guy too right?

​@@CowDogCraftWorks I think it's 45mm?? It's about the same size as the one your working on in the video

@@JTWoodworks nice! Yeah smaller is faster to set up but there’s definitely not as much room for error.

@@CowDogCraftWorks I know. You said that in the video 🙄😂 Seriously though, the video helped a lot

@@JTWoodworks 🥰

Thanks for watching Roger! My hope is to have this be more of a standing reference to give people some visual accompaniments to the instructive literature out there, hence the very clear chapter system. Thanks as always for your support. It’s fellas like you that keep me rolling through the sharing part of this journey.

@@CowDogCraftWorks you're welcome, I've just watched the build for your father in law too , that looked great after having to make a bit of on site tweaking. I bet he was pleased ,, nice one as we say in England

@@rogerwoods1351 yeah he was psyched. I think he liked being in the video more than anything to be fair. 🤣

@@CowDogCraftWorks he'll be asking for royalties😂

@@rogerwoods1351 he gets a free shirt every year 🤣

My dude! This is what I like to hear. Be sure to tag me once it gets set up. Would love to see how it goes.

I will show you the result.@@CowDogCraftWorks