Miss conect ABS sensor 😅

This 65 yr old woman wants to know how to replace the hose. How hard is it to do the bottom side? My hoses appear to be good. So I should leave them alone?

such a simple video explains a lot. GM is like Apple - buy our new products even if the old ones are fixable

I wish I saw this video before wasting 2 hours trying to battle it from the bottom! Thank you for this!

how many times a year should you check your tranny fluid for a 2010 camaro

Nice work. Only thing i could say to help others . Is you didn’t mention that you took the axle out. Lol.

Cabel definitely didn't slide off lol.

Great video for diagnosing and replacing the hydro booster. Thank you

Looks like mine exactly

Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Helped a lot.

Thank you

Hi! Thanks for putting together this great video! I have to replace the driver side upper and lower joints on my 2016 GMC Yukon SLT. Looking for recs on where to purchase the best parts. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

My intake heater light came on. Can I still drive it?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ac5pl9Ryt8W9ZZs.htmlsi=bavQ_dTnQn-rzkSF

I had the same problem and I changed it to a new one and before starting the truck again it was reading good at 12 then I cranked the truck and went back down to 1 any tips?

My neighbor has the 2021 2500 HD Silverado and was having the exact same non starting issue. He had the battery replaced and it didn't resolve the issue. We ran across this video, tested out continuity and the 400 amp buss/fusible link had failed. He was able to track down a buss bar at an area Chevy dealership, picked it up, replaced it and he's now up and running. Thanks for making this video, it sure did save him a ton of money and headache.

Look like something I could. I will let you know…

I like the long videos helps me be more accurate I'm a female who likes to work on my own vehicle so there's no one to blame if it's not right.

Great job

Any recommendations on how to replace the alternator? Seems I have to take out the entire fan unit to remove an alternator bolt on a 2021 Yukon 5.3L

I never took hose off. Just cover. Vacuum around area b4 and inside case. Dont let nothing fall in and get sucked in turbo!!!

Great video thanks for sharing

On connector number 4 is there supposed to be 12v ? All connectors have 12 V but number four is dead. Is it supposed to be like that?

You can use the ball joint press to remove the old ball joint also.

You don't smile often but that's okayy. My daddy smiles too often! Doesn't mean he's more auto savvy

Thanks I hate listening to guys spend 15 to 20 mins to ramble on, as Jack Webb would say "Just the Facts". 11k miles and time for 2nd oil change, no warranty anymore so its time to crawl under and save some money.

Official 👍 long version.

Thanks exactly what I was looking for

The piece with the 2 - 7/32 screws that comes off. How do u replace it with new motor? The new motor doesn’t have a hole on side that needs to be covered with that piece. Just leave it off?

Great Video , right to the point , helped me out bigtime , especially with the tab part and reinstalling the plastic bracket. I took it out and didn’t remember how to reinstall it , but your video is very clear . I will definitely subscribe, thanks 🙏🏻 plus the resistor trouble shooting tips were great, hopefully i don’t have to replace the resistor , i so i ll reach out to you if there’s a video or instructions.Once again thank you for your video !!!

The bus bar is just a plated & stamped piece of copper sheet. The copper path to the various studs narrows down beneath the black plastic to create fusible links. The 400 amp link on his had failed. It must supply the starter motor and there was a short or something that caused the link to fuse. The power to the starter solenoid coil must come from one of the other studs/fusible links as the solenoid still clicked. But the bus bar design is such that once one of the links fails, the entire part must be replaced. It can be tested by checking for battery voltage at the studs or by disconnecting the battery and checking for continuity between the battery connection and the studs etc. that are supplied. You could possibly jumper across a failed link for testing purposes only but that's rather risky on a 400 amp circuit. Unless the link failed from corrosion, not evident here, a short that caused a 400 amp fuse to fail is a serious issue. I'm surprised that replacing the bus bar was enough to solve the problem but if it works, it works. P.S. It would be interesting to remove the black plastic from a failed bus bar to see just what the fusible links look like.

Do you know if VW trouble codes are recorded by the vehicle ?

What the name of the part

Its the resistor that bad

Thx boss man

I have 2020 suburban i’ve replaced ride height, sensors, compressor, four shocks and calibration and to this day still rides very stiff Any idea? Is there any way I can take it somewhere you know in Southern California

Questions brotha my 2020 Silverado 2.7L is now doing the exact same but it started while I was driving and it told me engine power reduced and the engine began to shake so I turned it off and it’s doing this exactly, not wanting to turn on again any recommendations ?

Thanks for taking the time to make this video!

I fought that belt on my '19 Sierra for at least two hours before watching this vid. 4 zip ties (5 is too many), and it was on in minutes. It took me longer to set up than it did to get the belt on. Thanks for loading the vid.

Name of the drill bit you used?Thanks

Complete and utter stupidity !! Why does the entire automotive enthusiast world have to suffer because the other half of the lazy fat world is otherwise preoccupied with overeating and getting fatter, instead of taking 90 seconds to check their tire pressure at every re-fueling !!?? Stupid people…stupid world !!

Thanks man I don’t happen to have the tool and I’ve done them before without the tool but this one I just can’t seem to get thank you for your idea. I haven’t tried it yet, but I believe it’s gonna work.

Thanks! It's not the best design for sure!

Had this issue for two weeks. Finally researched what it was and went to the dealership. They told me it had already been replaced with the recall back in 2019 before I purchased my vehicle and since it had already been replaced they won’t fix it under the recall. I only have 92,000 miles on it. They want me to bring it in to run a diagnostic test for $160 before they charge me who knows how much to fix it.

How much should this cost? Also how long it take for a 1500

Leave it to GM to get rid of the tensioner pulley and make it pain in the ass for the consumer to fix.

THANKS

I just went to American tires, and they told me $95 for each tire. Is that an ok deal?

I like both but the long format gives the details and nuances.

Thanks a lot man.