Just did this for my 2011 Yukon XL this afternoon. Took me about 3 hours- about 30 minutes to get the old one out and 2 and a half hours to get the new one in 😂. Thanks for the video! Saved me from removing a lot of unnecessary stuff!

Decent freaking video. So sick of others saying to lock the steering wheel and remove the steering arm under the hood. They say it makes you have a “little more work room” which may be true, BUT, people will be sorry when they dont mark where things line back up and there alignment feels off because the wheel is no longer straight. DO IT THIS WAY THIS VIDEO SHOWS PEOPLE PLEASE! He is doing IT the CORRECT WAY. Don’t make extra work for yourself. Also for those asking about the passengers side. Its the same part/mount for both sides and literally the same process. The only thing you have to do on the passenger side is remove the tire and the wheel well. You can remove it enough to bend outta the way or take it all the way off so you aren’t fighting it flopping back on your arm while you’re unbolting the mount. On a side note Advance Auto sells the ANCHOR BRAND MOTOR MOUNT, Part # 3211 FOR $90 bucks EACH! Doesn’t even come with the heat shield either which you need! Amazon sells the EXACT SAME PART for $30 lol. Reviews are pretty crappy on it too. For $90 a side just buy an oem AC Delco factory replacement mount. But as a mechanic from PA this guy here does it correctly. Its not hard. Takes about 30-45 minutes if you are mechanically inclined or 1 hr and a half for the drivers side and probably 2 hours for the passenger side if you are new at working on cars. Take your time and take pictures on your phone if you’re unsure of yourself. Watch your fingers that they don’t get smashed too incase your lift of the engine method fails. He has correct tools but if you are using incorrect methods be extra careful lol. Great Video explaining location of bolts, the size and type of sockets to use, and thank GOD for the Milwaukee impact lol. Im a new subscriber for sure! One clue I wanna add as to why these mounts go bad often for some is (and I mean this seriously) is if you have a bad front strut and the vehicle is sitting lower on one side It stresses your sway bar and can break the sway bar bushing clamp bolts or even the sway bar linkages, and if really bad enough YES it will stress the heck outta the motor mounts and will keep rebreaking. Keep up on maintenance to save money in the long run. Learn from me when i was young and dumb lol. It happens. Don’t beat yourself up. But like this dude says, YOU CAN DO IT. Some of these videos make it sound like you’re rebuilding the motor or something. Hardest part like he tells you here is wiggling the motor mount out. Thank You for putting out correct information and detailed information. **Also hit like and subscribe if this video helped you. It will help him and thats the least we can do to show appreciation. 👍 This took his time and cameras and editing not to mention knowledge. Lets help each other out. Thank You Sir!

Process for 4wd: *Remove wheel/tire *Remove inner fender well *Disconnect electrical connections in the way *Remove exhaust manifold heat shield *Remove broken mount heat shield (ripped it out by hand) *Remove mount bolts *Jack up engine using catalytic converter, this will create enough space to maneuver the old mount out. It's like a puzzle but it can be removed through that space. *Install new mount *Reassemble Did this today, it was a bear of a job, the worst part was the bottom mount bolts that did not want to come out. The threads are exposed to the elements and have a lot of built up crud. No way to access them to clean them I just sprayed them with penetrating oil and kept working the bolts back and forth. About a 4 hour job. Once the mount was unbolted I was able to manipulate it through that space by turning it upside down and around. I put the new mount in the same way I took the old mount out, it took some finesse but I was able to get the new mount in place relatively easy. If you're having a hard time Jack the engine up some more. I took the time to clean the bolts and the threads before reinstalling so that I would not have a hard time with the bolts going back in. I did not have to drop the front diff, I did not remove the steering shaft and nor did I remove the exhaust manifold. So it can be done without removing any of those items.

Bro hands down the best explanation on KZfaq

The oil vs heat on mount is killing it bro!

Thanks that was a big help, I just replaced one on my Silverado

Thanks for you video, Simple straight to the matter.

I bought a DEA.MARMON D5 A5365 Ride control mount from RA - defective metal design, would not fit right into the frame channel of my sons 2009 5.3 silverado. wasted 3 hours trying to get it working - then went to autozone and plunkted down 3x as much on a duralast that fit perfectly. btw - a friend said to NEVER jack by a Cat. Converter because the smallest dent or deformation can cause the inside to shatter, creating a really expensive fix. Thanks for the video, it saved a lot of time and helped my planning. BTW. changed the $15 trans mount too, and it was completely rotted away into two pieces - three 15mm bolts. I did not remove the steering shaft, but I did remove the heat shield (15mm) and will safety wire and RTV red the shield back in place next .

Exactly what I need today!

Thank you for this video. Autoshop acted like they had to pull my motor completely out to access

Great video, helped me 100%. Thank you very much.

Great video. Saved me a ton of money...

Very good video! Props

Sweet just got these tools on sale. Thank u

Using the exhaust manifold will break off bolts on your exhaust manifolds. This creates another problem with these vehicles. The jacking is better done with a 2x4 and jack on the oil pan.

Nice job man, thanks!

This comment section is whack lol He gets on here and takes time out of his own day to make a video to help someone and y’all hate on him for doing a video on a 2wd instead of 4x4. Y’all are something else lmao

I have a stock height Silverado. Since I don't have access to a lift, do you think there's enough room to lay underneath the truck and jack the motor up using a floor jack and a regular jack stand?

Great video. Thanks for uploading. Is there a torque spec?

What about if you have long tube headers? Got a price from a 3 shops which all say $1,000+ just for labor for both mounts, no parts because I bought the Atomic mounts, because they will need to removed both long tube headers to swap the engine mounts. For my wife’s 2013 Yukon Denali 2wd with rhe 6.2L. Will also have to do my 2012 Silverado 6.2L with long tubes that’s 4x4 but it has a 15” lift on it so hoping it will be easier with the diff drop from the lift kit. The long tubes are the primary concern, do they really need to be removed?

Awesome video, what should a good shop charge for this?

This mount job is no joke. The heat shield Is the biggest problem with the job

Watched enough to decide to drive to my mechanic

would you lift the engine on the back of the oil pan?

I did mine in my 2014 Yukon Denali AWD both sides in 2hrs with A floor Jack and an engine hoist on the floor

I'd love to watch him do it on a four-wheel drive model I just did one and I literally defied the system it came out right through the driver side fender well

Thanks for your help

I have a 2012 Silverado 1500. Took the driver side but can't get to all top screws on passenger side. Any tips?

Very good 😊 , tomorrow I will be remove , these mount , how much labor take

I'd like to see you do a 4WD model.

This is relatively easy and straightforward on a RWD Yukon/Tahoe. HOWEVER, on a AWD version I just remove the front differential which takes about 20 minutes and remove the bolts that secure the Rack and pinion to the frame which allows you to move the rack just enough to extricate the differential from the vehicle. You will ultimately save a ton of time by doing so, and basically turn the vehicle into the version GreaseMonkeyRepairs shows in the video. Hope this helps those of you with an AWD version of the vehicle.

Great job.Where are you guys located?

GOOD VIDEO

What about a 4wd truck?? It will be the same process??

Where did you lift the other side?

I know I won't get an answer but is jacking up the motor using the cat not risky as it could do some damage?

You risk cracking the catalytic converter jacking from that point js other then that good video

Well, being that I don’t have a lift like that or know anyone with such a lift, doing this from a creeper does not look like much fun! How much should this cost from a reliable shop(not the dealership)?

That heat shield is more a pain in the ass, than it is helpful. I removed a broken motor mount that did not have a heat shield. It wasn't hard to remove, which I'm sure wouldn't have been difficult to replace. But, the new motor mount did come with a heat shield. It was a pain. It does not fit flush against the motor mount plate, and the holes do not line up. I ended up having to cut the corners of the heat shield with metal snips, so that I could fold it up, to get bolts installed and tightened. If you ask me, I'd just remove the shield, or buy the mount without it. The broken mount showed no signs of heat damage. It was just broken, like the one in this video. So, the shield really has no purpose. That's MY TWO CENTS.

Great videos. Just curious how many hours labor should a shop charge for this job?

What if it is a 4x4? wtf do you do then? Take front diff out?

What kind of jack is that?

Driver side on a 2WD does look pretty straight forward. I think I might pay someone to do the passenger side on my 4WD though lol 😬😂

2 engine support an 1 transmission?

Thank you.

"It's really not that hard..." ...with 9' of socket extensions, a socket swivel, a lift, X-ray vision, and several hundred dollars of tools you probably don't have. 😂 Don't forget the several hours of vigorous swearing!

I thought I'd see how to remove them but everyone gets the easy ones only 2wd. Where are the 4x4 ones

Good video but I wouldn't jack up on the exhaust tho

Great video but please change that e title to specify 2WD. Granted I should have checked underneath before taking the top bolts out/thought about this but time was short so I wasn’t thinking about it!

You said you were going to put links for the tools

Can you drive with a broken one. I have a07 Tahoe... What's the cost for this job btw?

1:30 the metal shredding off the bolt while being undone is just another small minute detail often over looked while working

How many mounts does the.silverado have. I have a 2008 4.8 2wd. Have bad motor mount but want to make sure I order correct one.

Anyone what would some of the reasons to replace these motor mounts? Thank you

Wish i can do it, i have no garage. getting it done for $650 OEM what cani do.

Just did my 07 4x4 tahoe driver and passenger side

How did u get it in place so easy u didn't show it

Defective from the Heat from the headers?

Did the bad mount make the suv jump or jerk a little? Made you feel like it had transmission problems by any chance?

You did not show the re-installation process of getting the mount installed into position.

Thanks but I need to know how to do this at home. I guess use a car jack to lift the engine?

I need to service my traction control and stabilitrak 07 Yukon denali . Any video's

Good job bud , the engineer are from what Disney world that works for GM that Design these trucks

Does it matter, 2wd vs 4wd?

Is easy for rear wells drive 4*4 is more difficult

Could a broken motor mount cause my stablitrak and traction control lights to come on? Could be the snow and slush causing that but my engine light was flashing with the vehicle shaking lightly?, hitting bumps the last day sounded odd in the front end passenger

Does he give a coupon for the new exhaust manifold gasket repair wok that he induced by jacking the mount & trans by his “shortcut” method?

Mines a 14 I’m guessing it’s the same

Yeah it’s easy if you’ve got a set up like the one you have in the vid

🍻

Thanks for the video. No I can see it shouldn't cost $600 at the dealer to do this. It's like what........an hour of labor? Thanks again

What about the passenger side

Ive gone through 3 driver's side mounts in about 4 years and ive got the smallest motor for a yukon xl (5.3L). OEM is junk. Just installed a set from summit racing. Should outlast me now...

Passenger side video?

What size bolts does the mount use

Why you didn't show passenger side?

4wd really isnt much harder considering you can drop the front diff in 10min.

I’d like to see how you put the shit back in bc it going for me

You should of did the driver side the hardest side because of the starter and ac compressor in the way

Now try that again with on a 4x4 version of the vehicle. Good luck.

now make a vid of a 4wd model, i bet you will struggle with the AFT lower bolt to engine.

Ummm just jack the motor up some by the oil pan. Lifting it up by the exhaust??

Thanks!

says it’s not as hard as people make it out to be then proceeds to do the job on a 2wd 😂

That “Millwaki” (or how ever you spell that bullshit) fuck them bolts up! No hate just sayin, good vid man, thanx bro👌🏽

You really need to put (if it’s a 2WD) after that “it’s easy you can do it”.

You should’ve showed the passenger side, that one is a bear 🐻

Forgot to mention on my Silverado the heat shield is in the way

These are notorious for have broken manifold bolts pls find a new method

That's the easy one now do the passenger side......

Do a 4x4!

This dude used the exhaust pipe to raise the engine...

Is this AWD?

I got scared when I saw the jack stand under the catyltltycytcllcttylic converter.

2 wheel drive is easy. 4x4 is more work.

We’ll see if it’s as easy as your the video lol

Every mechanic that I've asked they want to go with the 8 hours that the computer calls for, even if on the end they do it this way.

Now 4x4

There should be no need to change a motor mount on this new a vehicle unless poor quality from the factory they dont have enough power or torque

Yeah it’s easy because it’s Rear wheel drive. 4WD is a whole other story. Not easy!