1 Climbing Rule to Never Break (& Other Tips)

Рет қаралды 73,502

Күн бұрын

⚠️ 20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affil...
Check out some guidebooks:
➡️ Bishop: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/locati...
➡️ Red Rock: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/locati...
➡️ Joe's valley: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/locati...
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
🧗20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount (frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=...) OR free shipping on any product with code "hoopers"
🤚10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
📱 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affil...
💪 $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": shorturl.at/mnxU5
🍕 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (diet tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com/
👟 REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🧗 The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
🧗 Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🙋‍♂️ KZfaq Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s...
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedul...
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for KZfaq, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview
00:40 Classic run & jump error
02:10 When your hip mobility ruins your heel hook
03:46 Hip mobility heel hook drill
06:02 Shoulder advice for avoiding injuries
08:55 Her heel hook is perfect (+compression tips)
12:11 Alternate beta
13:01 The MOST useful climbing app, ever
14:03 Proof shoulder external rotation strength is key?
15:27 When to use heels vs toe hooks
18:17 One climbing rule to never break (Janja's scorpion)
19:39 Drive your knee accross the wall, not into it
21:42 Slow climbing will kill your sends
24:22 Pay more attention to opposition
25:36 The Big Climber
32:30 Why you need blubbers and better pad placement
33:51 Trick for pad placement
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 140
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/o...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

Пікірлер: 88

@bullydungeon9631 7 ай бұрын

The big climber portion was actually extremely helpful for me, for helping a friend. It's tough to couch someone when you don't know much already but especially when they're a hundred pounds heavier and you don't want them to get discouraged

@Idiomatick 29 күн бұрын

Realistically, losing weight would be the easiest, fastest, most effective thing they could do to get better at climbing after the first month or so. Obesity is insane hardmode. Climbing a V1 with a 100lb backpack is hard enough, but the extra weight fucks up their off the wall time too so it's actually much harder than that.

@danedalton 7 ай бұрын

Thanks a bunch for critiquing my climbing! The jabs were what I needed LMAO. Was just watching your lateral knee video as this came out!

@NickAlberto 7 ай бұрын

the "trimming your videos" tip got me weak 💀

@danedalton 7 ай бұрын

@@NickAlberto Hahaha the biggest pro tip

@jonasfilms4825 7 ай бұрын

these are the absolute best videos on the internet. I learn so much

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

That's awesome to hear! Thank you for sharing.

@levi.climbs 7 ай бұрын

Important to note at 20:00 is how close the heel is to the wall compared to the other person's. Having the heel farther out helps get over it.

7 ай бұрын

These beta break-downs have been the best way for me to learn techniques. Thanks you guys!

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

That' awesome! Stoked to hear that :)

@runforrest86 7 ай бұрын

that bullet time heel hook example was fantastic!

@czech42 7 ай бұрын

yas, please a video on scorpion kick would be amazing!

@bouldersuechtig 7 ай бұрын

Thank you, as always very good content, so helpful!

@robdb1993 2 ай бұрын

Love these video analysis videos !! Learning loads thank you

@chuffer595 7 ай бұрын

Sad to not see Dan Beall and Anna at Ironworks for the Q&A on Friday, but so grateful for what these excellent breakdowns!

@arkadaurum298 7 ай бұрын

Dans coaching is invaluable!

@jesenteh9022 7 ай бұрын

Thank you for featuring and critiquing my climb! It's a shame that the bloc has since been taken down so I cannot incorporate what was pointed out in the video. I did not end up sending that one but it was fun working on it.

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Thanks for submitting!!

@smockytubers1188 7 ай бұрын

Always love these videos.

@felixbaker8709 7 ай бұрын

It's always a good day when your vids come out. Love em!

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Woot! Thanks for the kind words 🙏

@ericlin158 7 ай бұрын

lol. Casual bomber headstand at 8:32

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Hah true!

@stefanopaoli717 7 ай бұрын

Several nuggets in here. Thanks!

@Toopa88 7 ай бұрын

Oh wow, I thought this was just another 4 year old video I'm binge watching, but apparently it was released 4 hours ago. Thanks for the videos and I really enjoy your (silly) humor 👍 (26:40 LOL)

@areteclimbing 7 ай бұрын

Watching you talk about face pulls and particularly in the context shown in this video, do you think single arm face pulls would translate better to the strength and stability required in moves like this? It would seem to incorporate the torsional moments about the spine more accurately than the double arm face pull.

@lubo3934 7 ай бұрын

I've been waiting for another one of these:3

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Woot woot! We have no plans to eliminate this series so there should be many more in the future. We are always looking to improve though, so some changes or alternatives may pop up in the future.

@scotthooper2126 7 ай бұрын

So cool to see The Flesh Price in a video! That's my home crag and was my first v6 of the summer!

@dbruneau280 7 ай бұрын

Yeah pretty cool to see the Glen here! I don't think they really diagnose the main issue, which is the location of the left foot, IMO. Flagging or using the available feet further left will help open up the hips, which will pull them in closer to the wall, automatically. Pushing with a left foot further out left will also allow the climber to pull more laterally with the heel. I haven't done this specific climb, stoked to try it soon to test my theory...

@the_soap_opera 7 ай бұрын

nice ! the niagara glen made it onto hooper's beta !

@bcyork 6 ай бұрын

@28:20 is something I've never consciously thought about or heard mentioned. It's a fantastic thing to bring to the front of the mind and maybe give some extra life into shoes and toes! Thanks

@kayaclimbing 7 ай бұрын

Boom! Great vid, as always y'all!! Keep on.

@davesmith1588 7 ай бұрын

Ha, I've done that run and completely miss the foothold move 😆

@TheBigClimber Ай бұрын

Thanks so much for reviewing my climbing! Those tips were super helpful and I’ll definitely be working on them! I’ll keep putting in my videos so that I can get that awesome feedback! 😂

@HoopersBeta Ай бұрын

Thanks for submitting! Looking forward to seeing your progress 💪

@TheBigClimber Ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta You prompted me to post a progress video! I've definitely come a long way from starting, and your videos have been a huge help. I honestly don't know how I missed this one till now! Thanks again!

@AlphaRapture 7 ай бұрын

First time watching this type of video from you guys; awesome breakdowns to learn while drinking my coffee. Is the drawing app that you're using on iOS or Android? It's lovely.

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Oh nice! Welcome to the series :) Glad you are enjoying it, and with the perfect pairing of coffee ;) - The app is called OnForm. It's available on both platforms.

@AlphaRapture 7 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta thank you! I'm also a trainer and love to see the different tools to help enhance my coaching. :) Just watching your channel in a short time has helped with not just my climbing, but also my personal lifting, so thank you for all your work!!

@bouldersuechtig 7 ай бұрын

Unfortunately this App ist very expensive (5€/month personal, 29€/month coach)

@TRD_Kyle 7 ай бұрын

Solid video. I am an absolute sloth when i climb so while it wasnt my video, i needed to hear those slow climbing jabs. Also going off that last one... check your top outs! Any bit of knowledge for where the holds and what the topo is like is probably the best thing i can do for myself outdoors.

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

For sure! Checking out the top out is super useful. There may be a hold that you otherwise wouldn't have found. And yeah hah I feel like many climbers could use that subtle reminder to climb a bit faster. It's certainly a useful tip :)

@SiIentAzn 7 ай бұрын

I'm so surprised to see my local gym there! And I have a feeling i know the guy too haha

@yuteyang6811 7 ай бұрын

Loving this series! What’s the app that allows you to stop and draw on videos?

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Glad you're enjoying it! We use an app called OnForm.

@yuteyang6811 7 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta thank you for the info.

@davidsimpson3885 7 ай бұрын

love the comments on flagging and smearing for beginners, after angels of holds and working in Opposition is the first thing I Show people who I get climbing for the first time.

@sampsonliao2946 7 ай бұрын

Random, but what app is that youre using to draw on the video

@ralfrussel1950 7 ай бұрын

What software are you using for analysing? And as always, great video.

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

OnForm :)

@J_ST 7 ай бұрын

15:33 nice opportunity for a pogo

@nvincentabuan 7 ай бұрын

babe wake up new hoopers beta video just dropped

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Yew!

@gripsclimbing 5 ай бұрын

What software do you use for graphic analysis?

@HoopersBeta 5 ай бұрын

It's an app called OnForm

@sylpalo 7 ай бұрын

Hi I really like this explains climbs. Good Job and extremly helpful. But i'm french and it's difficult to understand what the doctor says... (hope that KZfaq translator helps me) For the apps on Sesame Street boulder it's a shame that the video shows the method. For me it's important to jump into the unkwown decrypt the rock. Ethel did a great effort on this pure line.

@HoopersBeta 6 ай бұрын

Sorry for the unclear explanation! I am happy that you are enjoying this series, though!

@Randres24 7 ай бұрын

That was a nice clink haha

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

One of the best clubs I've heard in a while. Full commitment

@Slab_Justice_Warrior 7 ай бұрын

Have you ever had a video instructing falling tactics? A lot of climbers that transition from the gym to outdoors do not have the body awareness to control a fall, or at least anticipate what to do with their body in space when falling. Practicing falling appears to be a major way to prevent injuries that boulderers tend to not do. Many climbs that could be done with a single pad at just the crux end up having 3 or 4 pads on them, which erodes the base of the climb over time. Practicing falling (thoughtfully) would help prevent injuries and lessen the impact of erosion from pads. Thirdly, if you know how you are going to fall when attempting a move, and have to confidence to land on the pads, bouldering becomes less scary and you are enabled to commit to moves due to the confidence you have in your ability to fall and land on the pad safely.

@thenayancat8802 7 ай бұрын

How does having more pads at the base of a climb significantly erode the base of the climb?

@Slab_Justice_Warrior 7 ай бұрын

@@thenayancat8802 If one pad moves around, it disturbs the area underneath. In a deciduous forest where small organisms live in the leafy matter, this can squish them and kill them. If the organisms are not there to hold the top soil in place, rain water can wash it away. Deserts have their own microbiomes under the crust of sunbaked sands that can be disturbed by pads. That is just the start of pads causing erosion. Two pads is double the surface area, so it doubles the erosion.

@ResidentHooook 7 ай бұрын

Suppose it's not so simple. If a single pad needs to be dragged along under the climber as they progress, versus two stationary pads, being placed once and then removed?

@thenayancat8802 7 ай бұрын

@@Andy-fd7zh I guess we should also minimise the number of people going climbing? If you're not going to send your project today, you don't get to go to the crag!

@thenayancat8802 7 ай бұрын

@@Slab_Justice_Warrior Hey just out of interest, do you eat meat? Also I think you have something mixed up here. The "small organisms" that would be squished by pads aren't binding together the top soil. People walking on soil would presumably cause just as much disturbance to the "microbiome" as pads would, if not more. It sounds like you've got some weird fixation on people who use "too much" protection when climbing, maybe work on that rather than hiding it behind a fear of "erosion".

@Mrperson662 7 ай бұрын

I need to practice climbing faster for sure. I climb like a sloth. Where my sloths at

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

haha :) even as a non-sloth myself, I still practice climbing faster. I'm more "in the middle" (speed wise) but do find that when I feel super confident/comfortable, I actually slow down rather than speed up. Sometimes it's OK, but often it's just zapping necessary energy.

@locallingapan 7 ай бұрын

Any tips on using climbing to lose weight? I find myself getting stronger but losing even a couple of kilos would be nice.

@Mrperson662 7 ай бұрын

I went through a little cut phase recently and I dialed back my climbing a bit. More short, low volume max strength sessions with a lot of rest. High protein intake

@LSDerek 7 ай бұрын

I haven't weighed myself quite a while. I'm pretty sure though I'm on the heavier side, also due to creatine. I personally wouldn't bother with trying to loose weight. But if you can change some aspects of your diet, especially less unhealthy snacking, less/no alcohol, and only eat just healthy food, you'll probably loose some weight but more importantly, feel more fit.

@lui5gif 7 ай бұрын

Diet will ultimately play a bigger role, and they've already vouched for diet tracking. I started using macrofactor because of the recent over/underrated video, and been very happy with it. Other than that, building muscle will help your metabolism, which will help a bit with weight loss. But you can also throw some endurance exercises, like climbing the same boulder multiple times with little to no rest, or different boulders, whichever you prefer. If you prefer not to supplement your climbing with other sports, this should introduce a cardio component into your training, which should also contribute to weight loss. But again, I'd focus primarily on diet.

@La0bouchere 7 ай бұрын

Diet is the main factor in losing weight (caloric deficit and macros). Exercise doesn't really help outside of allowing you to eat more calories and still be in a deficit.

@wisconsinair 6 ай бұрын

The bigger the Dan in the thumbnail, the more likely I am to click on this video

@HoopersBeta 6 ай бұрын

😂👌

@dark-o 7 ай бұрын

Jason, Jeff Cavalier "the real inventor of facepulls" is probably promoting them more than you. I'd say you are very close second 🤭❤️

@HoopersBeta 7 ай бұрын

Dang, I guess I'll have to step my game up then! haha. Honestly sometimes I feel like it's annoying hammering the same exercise, but if it works....

@dark-o 7 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta I confirm it has worked great for me and increased my upper body stability and gained +5 in strength :) 💪🔥❤️

@maciejlorenc2500 7 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta I am poor climber but i did similar exercise (with bands) for those muscles and i felt better in the gym. Way stronger and i only did 3*10 for each arm every other day. That works. If I could do facepulls at home i would do them.