Don't Blame Wingspan! These Mistakes Limit Your Reach

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Күн бұрын

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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro & Video Overview
00:28 Climb 1: Lateral Dyno
00:42 Climb 1 Analysis: Hip, Foot Placement Issues
02:31 Climb 1 Demonstration: 3 Mistakes to Avoid
02:49 Mistake #1
04:10 Mistake #2
05:51 Mistake #3
06:51 Climb 2: Vertical Dynamic Move
08:16 Climb 2 Analysis: Humans Aren't Made for This
9:14 Climb 2 Demonstration: Why Climbing Training is Weird
10:40 Drill #1
11:43 Drill #2
13:20 Drill #3
14:57 Climb 3: Full Span Move
15:21 Climb 3 Analysis (Dan): Need More Extension
16:36 Climb 3 Demonstration (Dan): Maximizing Reach
19:02 Climb 3 Analysis (Jason): Figuring Out Body Position
19:36 Climb 3 Demonstration (Jason): Reverse Engineering Movement
21:20 Recap of What We've Learned
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 131
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

Пікірлер: 100

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

If you'd like to be featured in a video follow us on Instagram @hoopersbetaofficial! Sorry about the background drill noises in the gym 😭we will avoid filming while they're route setting in the future!

@huntergibson7675 11 ай бұрын

Awesome video! Not related, but can you make a video about toe health and ways to fix toe pain? I’ve recently started experiencing a lot of big toe pain even though I’ve been climbing for many years

@VeryShortClimberBeta 11 ай бұрын

I've watched (what I assume to be) every single KZfaq video on climbing technique for maximizing reach, and this one gets so much more technical and situational that I feel like I have a lot of new ideas to try and practice. Great vid as always! Always honored to be featured but honestly more stoked at all the lessons to learn in this one 😁

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Yayy that’s great to hear! Thanks for submitting the video(s) in the first place!

@WyandWombat 11 ай бұрын

I think this was the first time I watched an AG1 ad.

@andresanchez2000 11 ай бұрын

Thanks so much for including my video in your analysis! This is so interesting and makes so much sense as I've recently been dealing with chronic runner's knee and after going to a sport's medicine doc he told me that I had overdeveloped and tight quads and weak glutes in comparison and he recommended stretching the quad and strengthening the glutes. These drills with be so helpful for both my climbing and my runners knee!

@victoryzy 11 ай бұрын

I was just about to skip the ad till I see where it went 😂 kudos to the team

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

haha glad you enjoyed it! We try and make them fun.

@meclimbing 11 ай бұрын

I've been pretty over Athletic Greens ad reads on all the climbing channels but I actually watched this one. Good work Emile!

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Thank you! :)

@jhy8191 11 ай бұрын

Jason + Dan = amazingly detailed and practical information!

@emilholck87 11 ай бұрын

Couldnt agree more!

@jensplinzler1604 11 ай бұрын

With such good content, wo cares about drilling noise. Keep up the awesome movenment videos!

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Haha thank you!! :)

@metyu3730 11 ай бұрын

These videos are getting better and better, thank you again! :-)

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Glad you think so! We are always looking for ways to improve.

@maverickburns864 11 ай бұрын

great video! I really like the editing you guys have been doing recently, it adds a lot of quality to the videos

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Emile get's all the credit for that! I agree though, the edits really add to the video and make them more enjoyable to watch :) - Jason

@blancheladera-puncer 11 ай бұрын

Thanks! A content that helps small climber to be more dynamic. Thanks for the drill, definitely gonna make it part of the warm up.

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

We hope it helps! Happy climbing.

@edpsych42 11 ай бұрын

Thanks so much for sharing this. What a great video!

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it!

@edpsych42 11 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta I’ve actually been able to apply the principles already. And successfully! 🙂

@georgegray2712 11 ай бұрын

Thanks for the fantastic videos!! You two give the best technical advice on climbing on KZfaq!

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Thank you for the kind words! Glad our advice is helpful.

@triplea657aaa 2 ай бұрын

I love how you guys break down the biomechanics of how to do things.

@HP-cu2nl 11 ай бұрын

Love Dan's T-shirt No place too far Perfect for a video about dynos 😅

@krisbooth8441 11 ай бұрын

The concept presented at 20:50 blew my mind haha. So simple, but for some reason I never thought to do it.

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Definitely one of my favorites!

@Birb_brain 11 ай бұрын

this is so useful. the analysis is thoughtful and the demonstration really helps translate on to the wall

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Awesome! Glad you think so :)

@middle-agedclimber 11 ай бұрын

You guys are providing a gem after gem. Watching every ad on your videos is the least we viewers should do.

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Much appreciated!

@TheAbd1233 11 ай бұрын

Hey great video. I think it really helps understand the mechanism of dynoing. I am robotics engineering so been thinking of the mechanics of this but never made sense in my head.

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Thank you! Glad it was helpful / helped clear things up!

@benja_mint 10 ай бұрын

the ad was so good i watched it twice

@richardthurston1208 11 ай бұрын

As a shitty climber coming from a small amount of ballet experience all of the training that ballet does in the turned out position seems to carry over extremely well to the drills mentioned for climb #2. Maybe cross training ballet would be a more fun way of developing strong jumps in the turned out position?

@danielbeall7725 11 ай бұрын

I’d love to! Ballet has good carryover for a lot of sports, but I’ve found it difficult to find consistently good teachers / people able and willing to teach non-beginners in other sports. Any recommendations would be awesome!

@crystalding5589 11 ай бұрын

I do this! Beginner in both ballet and climbing and dabble in various other sports and training methods, but what I love the most is discovering transferable skills and using them to get better across the board. Glad you’ve mentioned it!

@martinofinotelli1884 11 ай бұрын

Very nice work guys! I especially found the first 2 videos very useful. Also, my favourite joke was the "physical" climb in the ad which was not physical at all :D

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Glad someone picked up on that 😂😂 those slabs are just so physical!

@emilyjenkins7496 11 ай бұрын

Thank you!!!!

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

You're welcome!

@MohamedAshraf-fw1dc 8 ай бұрын

As always, your videos are golden, it’s like a Netflix show that I’m meaning to watch, and i know I’ll love, and i procrastinate getting to it, and then i get to it, and I’m thinking “i need to preserve this”, i need to pass this down to people - keep up the incredible content

@HoopersBeta 8 ай бұрын

Thank so much!

@somefishhere 11 ай бұрын

Congrats on over 100 episodes! What app do you use for the video playback with arrows?

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Thank you! We use OnForm

@robertpeschke7746 9 ай бұрын

Very interesting to track the progress of Jason's hairstyles throughout the videos. As a suggestion I think you should put together a progression videos of Jason's hair. kind of a "through the years" type video. Would be fascinating to track the progression. Meanwhile Dan is very consistent.

@burningfear3336 11 ай бұрын

just want to thank you guys I used to use a wheelchair 50% of the time but after climbing for years i no longer need it yoour injury recovery was esppicialy important for me.

@bluepalmsmusic 11 ай бұрын

About the ads…I think the way Mr Beast integrates them into the plot of the video is the best way to go.

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Thanks for the feedback, what did you think of this one though? I thought Emile crushed it.

@bluepalmsmusic 11 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta it was very creative! It was good! But it is still skippable, because it is a standalone part of the video. Mr Beast talks about ads integration on the Lex Friedman podcast (available on KZfaq). I hope it can elevate your content even higher!

@Aaron-xq6hv 11 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta I preferred this one. It was amusing enough that I actually watched it, (probably the first time I've ever watched an ad on a climbing channel) but I could still skip it if I really wanted. So that seems like the perfect balance to me. Despite what the person below says, if they were "integrated" I'd likely just drop any channel that does that because I'd never know what's real or what's paid for.

@gball8466 11 ай бұрын

Does Dan have a source of the old orange Scarpa Instincts? They are the best slipper ever and I'm still salty they discontinued them.

@danielbeall7725 11 ай бұрын

Sadly just a couple pairs left in my garage before they’re gone forever 😅 Kills me to even use them, but if they languish much longer they’ll just oxidize and turn into antiques 🤷🏻‍♂️

@BeGravity4 11 ай бұрын

Just an excellent video

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Many thanks!

@sebastiantory-pratt1373 11 ай бұрын

Thumbs up for the ad alone. The rest of the video was pretty quality too ;)

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

haha :) thank you. I think our next one is pretty solid too - I'll be waiting to see your feedback (comes out next Monday!) - I'll be waiting for your feedback hah

@georgegray2712 11 ай бұрын

Main problem at 0:40 was he didn’t yell loud enough. When you scream, you should see flocks of birds fly out from the trees and the entire forest go quiet afterwards.

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Very true! No one teaches that properly! 😆

@neo778 11 ай бұрын

Great content, because in climbing you allways can improve your technique, no matter how long you climb. Which app would you suggest to analyse moves? E.g. For slow motion, split view, painting arrows …?

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

True! There is always room for improvement. We use an app called OnForm.

@neo778 11 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta Thank you!

@patchiebeaver139 11 ай бұрын

Could you do an in depth video of interpalmar ligament injuries

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

We would love to do rehab videos on any / all injuries. That one is a bit more niche, though, and may take a backseat for a bit compared to some other videos but it's on our radar :) Thanks for the suggestion!

@patchiebeaver139 10 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta makes sense. I just dont have insurance so im not going to the doctor haha

@SonnyKnutson 11 ай бұрын

@Hooper's Beta What video analyzing program do you use in these videos?

@James-mr5kb 7 ай бұрын

OnForm

@g0rbz 11 ай бұрын

lmao RIP @ 18:44

@yourneighborwiththecutedog 9 ай бұрын

my pet peeve of climbing videos is when the camera person doesnt show the hold that is being reached for. its just so frustrating to not be able to see where the climber is trying to get to.

@ApequH 11 ай бұрын

A propper plie (ballet squad), in first or second position is great for climbers

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

I was thinking that myself when filming! Seemed useful for these types of movements!

@sstrong42 11 ай бұрын

Modern movement analysis is what climbing has needed for, forever basically.

@benja_mint 10 ай бұрын

i'm a tall guy, and i wanna be even taller to skip even more holds. this video is gonna help me :D

@HoopersBeta 10 ай бұрын

Be prepared for the ensuing hate from onlookers ;)

@patchiebeaver139 11 ай бұрын

Can i climb with an interpalmar ligament injury. Theres never been pain. I just noticed something weird one day and its been inflamed inbetween the ring and pinky in the palm just under the knuckle

@joetipton8681 11 ай бұрын

What are those adidas pants called?

@Cfontes82 11 ай бұрын

Coffee is considered a food group.... LOLed for real

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

One of the best food groups.

@rotamrofsnart 11 ай бұрын

I would love some pointers on how to move as a taller climber (2m) on routes that have high foot holds. I always feel like I'm being pushed out of the wall on those kind of routes.

@Yt-qi9ot 11 ай бұрын

Damn, didnt notice how nice your haircut was until you stood sidewwys for the stepup. Whos your barber? Lol

@Kevin-tp4gl 8 ай бұрын

I think people do not blame wingspan but the fact that for the exact same hold you have to overthink what do to better and compensate that you have a shorter wingspan than other people. therefore making much effort for the same result, which can be kind of boring

@Aidllorca 11 ай бұрын

What climbing shoes are they???

@joetipton8681 11 ай бұрын

Old scarpa instinct S

@danielbeall7725 11 ай бұрын

@@joetipton8681 Good spot! I love them so much! The new ones are good too though 😉

@Aidllorca 11 ай бұрын

@@joetipton8681 cheers dude

@joetipton8681 11 ай бұрын

@@danielbeall7725 thee best I think. Haven’t tried the new ones, there next on the wish list. Haha brill vid dude ty.

@Boogieforme 11 ай бұрын

Mmmm tastes like nutrients!

@Lilwayha 11 ай бұрын

What will short people blame it on if they can't do it then?

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

They won't need to blame it on anything once they send the climb ;)

@ioidt 11 ай бұрын

@15:12 Mario?

@nbka8rs 11 ай бұрын

Algogo

@fredpilk7759 11 ай бұрын

Sonic?!

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Haha thank you for guessing! Mario ;)

@antoniomolina3612 11 ай бұрын

@@HoopersBeta i knew it was mariooo

@wisconsinair 11 ай бұрын

I hope Dan is getting paid

@HoopersBeta 11 ай бұрын

Of course, he's part of the team!

@celinepires6353 5 ай бұрын

Hi ! Just sayin, it would be great for the recap to have more "to do" and not the mistakes to avoid, i will remember the mistakes now 🤣😅

@tylerparke1580 2 ай бұрын

Who tf would name a boulder Trail of Tears?