Right. But I dont think it shouldn't be hard to find this part, since ford use the same part so you can find this at any parts store or online

@@Mercenary_MaL thanks, yes, I have found the part on ebay. Very easy to find. Thanks again for this video.

I would not add a check valve, and I certainly would not replace the oem with a valve further down the line. It needs to be as close to the vac pump as possible. It will work further away, but the further you go the lower vacuum will be. It all depends on how much you value boost and spooling, so if those are things people want, and I know I do, you want the oem valve in the oem spot. It doesn't take much drop in vacuum to start feeling it in boost, at least on my car.

Yup thats the exact part number

If the check valve gets clogged up or broken that definitely can mess with the airflow of the vacuum pump, really doesn't take much to mess up airflow for a vacuum pump. Now for the ECU that may have something to deal with the vacuum pump if the check valve doesn't fixes the code. A d I'm not sure why it be oil on it, I'll have to do more research on why it does that and o get back to you

The default is full bypass, as you call it, or wastegates fully open. This vacuum is the only thing closing the wastegates. Unplug the vac line to it and take it for a drive and you'll see. When you start loosing vacuum because this valve starts failing, gets torn or whatever, you lose power. You may not notice if it's just a little power, so you need to monitor what's going on to see if the ECU is happy with the vacuum it has, or not. It's normal to have a little bit of oil in the vac line just past the valve, and I do mean little. If you pull the line at the solenoid and see oil, that valve is shot.

Gutted Cat, straight pipe

Nope, I only changed it because I got the car used so I was just changing all the parts as a precaution

P0299?

Yup, I should have all the parts in the description

I only see link to the valve you’re talking about. I was curious about your intake hoses. I noticed they’re not the plastic and flex cloth tubing that is usually stock.

@jasonk86 I sent you a link, when you get these intake hose, make sure you get a 3 inch coupler. You will have to cut the intake pipe so it can fit. And you will be able to stick the coupler into the old intake housing once you cut off the cloth material. Let me know if you need me to make a video. And I will post one www.ebay.com/itm/373400035624?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cxmw3mtnrew&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=hacm5mpqtxk&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Make a video for this I bought the stuff but I would like to see how much to cut and how to position them.

I'll try my best because the front-end of the car is still getting repaired

It shouldn't be super oily buy it should have some oil on it

It's ok if the valve itself is oily because the pump side had oil flying everywhere and it gets on the valve, which will e dripping wet when removed. What you don't want to see is a lot of oil in the vac line between the valve and solenoid it goes to. If oil gets as far as the solenoid then the valve is not only bad, it's probably disintegrated. That valve is very delicate and will fail, it's just a matter of when. I'd check it at every oil change, or any time you think power is lower than normal. I'd replace it regardless if the car has 50k or 5yrs on it.

www.ebay.com/itm/334573589804?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cREh4egmTWS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=hacm5mpqtxk&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I dont tolerate negative engery on my channel just a fair warning so 😂lol its only $10 so worth a try to see if it helps the issue before going into more expensive fixes, if you still having issues with the boost then replace or clean the boost controller which is another cheap and easy fix

@@Mercenary_MaLobviously this person has no knowledge of this platform.

This check valve is a very common failure point for this and the M157, and it causes low boost when it fails. People do need to be wary of what replacement valve they get because the cheapo chinese ones I've seen are lame. To get peak possible boost I broke down and bought a whole quality pump just to scavenge the valve off it. So an fyi to anyone buying a $10 valve, check your boost, or better yet, check your turbo duty cycle to see if the valve is good enough or not. The more boost you want, and the quicker you want it to spool, the better that valve needs to be.