Nah, and I used to hate mouse touch pads. Tuning a DSP doesn't require much mouse use.

Basically yes. But the vehicle acts like an acoustic box that multiplies certain frequencies as it absorbs others hence why he is using the RTA to manipulate the EQ curve in order to get the acoustic curve as flat as possible disregarding the electrical signal

Looks like a third bro

Yes, most DSPs have a remote level control that can be assigned to a specific output or group of outputs that act as a master volume and/or subwoofer level control. Sometimes it is included with the DSP, but usually it is a separate add-on purchase/accessory.

Well that is totally dependant on the car, sub ,amp etc. Generally you want your sub xover a half octave below your hpf for the fronts if you want the sub to sound "up front-ish".

@@melissathompson7229 Forgive my ignorance but when you say set the subwoofer crossover 1/2 octave below my hpf what numerical value dues 1/2 octave represent? I have my hpf for the door speakers around 87-95 hz (the front door speakers are 6x9"-87hz and the rear doors are 6 1/2"-95hz). So I think my subwoofer is crossed around 80 Hz. What would be optimum setting? Is it generally 80hz? My apologies I'm trying to read as much as I can to absorb as much knowledge as I can.

@@charlesabbott9605 no worries at all. If you have your fronts high passed at say 80 hz which is a great starting point a full octave below would be 40 hz. So a half octave would be roughly 60-65 hz. Obviously you have to play with it a bit to get it perfect but that's a good starting point. However if you don't have a DSP you will probably only have the option to set your subwoofer lpf to something like 63 hz which is generally fine

@@melissathompson7229 thank you thank you thank you!

@@melissathompson7229 Did you mean to reply to someone else? I'm talking about time delay. Nothing to do with crossovers. If your sub delay is wrong, It can cancel out your mids. If you "fix" this with EQ. You are just making your amp and speakers work overtime. Using a Tape measure for this is like using a sun dial to tell what time it is. Is it accurate? sort of? but also you could have the whole thing backwards. (not a perfect example but hopefully you get my point) As in you might want to have your subs phased 180, (and also then, the delay will be totally different) for the best response. REW has a time alignment tool that works great. All you need is a measurement of the front mains and of the Sub. Tons of info on this under "sub alignment" in the home theater world. Car audio seems to always be a step behind. If You DO want to do this with RTA, (which is a pain) you can do this. Crossovers at (your example) 60 and 80hz. Pay attention to the WORST result here at 70hz. Increase the delay in the sub, then remove the delay and increase the delay in the speakers. Flip the sub 180 and do the same with subs, and then start over with the mains. Wherever your biggest dip is, is the maximum cancelation. Now that you know the worst result with the most cancellation, you flip the sub 180 from where that is and you should have your best result and correct delay. THEN you can EQ that 60-80hz area if needed.

That will just make everything a hot spot?

@Chris Butler If you have a DSP, the crossover controls and adjustments are much more Precise and Flexible than the amplifier's, so use the crossovers in the DSP. However, I would use the HPF crossover in the amplifier to set a "protection/safety" crossover on each Tweeter at around 1.5kHz if possible. For the majority of car audio tweeters on the market, you will want to set the crossover in the DSP at or above ~3kHz. The protection or safety crossover on the amplifier will be about an octave below the actual tweeter crossover in the DSP and will not affect it. But by doing this, your tweeters will be protected if you accidentally play test tones or music through them without a crossover set in the DSP, or if the DSP glitches or resets while tuning (it can happen!). Andy at Audiofrog suggests using a simple 68ųf (68 microfarad) poly capacitor placed in-line on a 4-ohm Tweeter's positive wire to effectively offer the same protection. The Microfarad value of the capacitor may need to be changed depending on the impedance of the tweeter being used and its Fs (resonant frequency), and the desired final crossover point. For example, some tweeters are 6 Ohms or 8 Ohms. Using this simple capacitor on the tweeter applies a -6dB per octave crossover filter to it well below the final crossover point. There are online calculators to figure out the proper value of the capacitor that is needed (depending on the desired protection crossover frequency and the tweeter's impedance). For some strange reason, Dean does not think this is necessary or advisable. But I'm guessing that he has never had to pay for expensive blown tweeters when this happens. Go to the Audiofrog website's Tech Tips Section to find the article on using a capacitor to protect your tweeters when using a DSP without passive crossovers.

@@bbfoto7248 awesome thank you! Dsp world is all new to me, I’ve really enjoyed learning about it.

Only if they’re wired to the crossover in a bi-amp configuration (if possible), but then you lose your DSP crossover functionality between the two speakers. Passive crossovers don’t have a HPF for the mid so at least you get that option with a DSP.

@ 8:00 here's your answer

There's an rta app from audio control available on app store. Also consider buying a good dac. I'm currently using tempotec sonata hd it really makes a huge difference in overall sound.

@@deepeshgolani1 Nice to hear that inexpensive DACS can actually make a difference.

In one of the videos with Jeff Smith, they posted a Spotify Playlist of their Demo/Tuning tracks. I would seriously consider purchasing the Audiofrog UMIK-1 kit and following the Audiofrog Tuning Guide PDF that is available for free download on the TechTools section of the Audiofrog website. Andy at Audiofrog has included some excellent Demo tracks on the CD that is included with the UMIK-1 Tuning/Measurement kit. Also check out and Search for *Erin's Audio Corner Playlist* on Spotify!

@@bbfoto7248 Wow thank you so much! A bunch of great info.

Some where between 1/2 and 3/4

@Five Star Car Stereo so you guys don't set amp gains until after setting eq? Or is that only for factory, will that apply to aftermarket?

Yes

Nope super easy

Yes you would need all

Sorry you don't already know that they have...4-5 months ago. kzfaq.info/sun/PLvJwOrkzwYIB4c6rR5USOBMZrDhGsLgZg OMG...look who did video #5...

@Kenny Bales Kenny, thanks, I've seen those videos, but NONE of them cover the process of taking accurate Acoustic Measurements in the vehicle and then applying the PROPER corrections in the DSP, which is THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT of "tuning" a DSP. Again, look at JL Audio's recent videos using their new TüN v4.0 DSP software and MAX microphone measurement system as a reference.

Who cares what you appreciate. Seriously, you're uncalled for.

@Kenny Bales Say what you will. I stand by my comments. I'd rather speak out and be called various derogatory names than let thousands of viewers consider this video their "reference" tuning guide. Viewers would be better off following Audiofrog's FREE step-by-step Tuning Guide that is available as a PDF download which is located at the bottom of the "Tech Gear" UMIK-1 microphone measurement system page on the *Audiofrog* website. In addition, you really need to take multiple microphone measurements in several locations within the "listening window", or use the "moving mic method", to get a *spatial average* that will more accurately represent the acoustic amplitude response of the system in the main listening position. "Setting Up" the I/O Routing Matrix and general settings of the DSP is one thing. But making proper acoustical measurements and applying meaningful corrections to the DSP is another entirely. Dean admitted to not ever actually using his Audiofrog UMIK-1 because it requires the use of the fantastic but intimidating *REW* software. *REW* is incredibly powerful and feature-rich, and you can easily "get lost in the weeds" much like Photoshop for images. However, there are just a few key settings and features in REW that you are required to learn and utilize in order to make the proper measurements. Yes, a bit more time and experience is required to understand and interpret the results properly in order to apply appropriate and meaningful corrections to the DSP and improve overall system response. While a "Target Curve" was mentioned (but pretty much quickly dismissed for some unknown reason), the end results of Dean's adjustments and "corrections" were so very far off from any known and accepted Target Curve that would actually produce pleasing results, that it is scary and honestly a disservice to the car audio enthusiast community. Dean obviously has HEAPS of installation and OEM integration knowledge and wisdom. But *properly* Measuring and then Tuning a car audio system that uses a DSP is an entirely different skill set. Unfortunately, they have limited time to produce these videos properly, and that along with Dean's ADD forced him to skip or not thoroughly explore the necessary processes that produce a successful tune. The process he used and the ultimate "tune" that he ended up with may sound "exciting" and "good" at first listen by the general audio enthusiast when they pick up their vehicle, but IMHO, it will be far from ideal over the long term and across all genres of music and recordings, leaving A LOT of room for improvement on the table. If you want to watch in-depth videos that clearly explain the process of taking measurements and system tuning using a DSP, check out the more recent *JL Audio* videos using their *TüN* v4.x software. If you want to learn through hands-on experience, check if former IASCA World Champion, Mark Eldridge, is still offering classes through his *MSE* Tuning Course (Mobile Soundstage Engineering). COVID might have postponed these courses or clinics...I haven't checked in a few years. To be fair, IME, 90% of car stereo enthusiasts wouldn't really appreciate or want a properly tuned and "balanced" SQ system. I've also found that a lot of people don't really care about recreating an accurate soundstage with pinpoint imaging in their vehicle. They really just want a loud, clean system with "killer" bass, and a fully enveloping experience. For example, Fernando really likes an over abundant amount of sparkle and sizzle from his tweeters that would drive most musicians, audiophiles, or studio engineers nuts. Anyhow... Good luck with your new system and install...and enjoy the music!

@@bbfoto7248 Jesus Christ, are you retired, or something. Ain’t nobody got time to read all that. Tl;dr if you’re happy, I’m happy for you. Just don’t forget to be nice to people.

@Kenny Bales Well, if you can't keep your attention focused long enough to read a few paragraphs in a KZfaq comment, I don't know what to tell you. :-/ I'm a photographer, gaffer, musician, and home & car audio enthusiast that cares enough to take the time to try to educate people so that they might gain more satisfaction from their stereo system regardless of how much money they have invested in it. I hate seeing people spend a lot of money on good equipment and a DSP and not get the absolute best performance and enjoyment out of it! Proper acoustic measurements and DSP system tuning are in-depth topics and skills with MANY technical facits. No Pain, No Gain. Everyone these days expects to be spoon-fed and only wants to watch videos...can't be bothered to actually READ and learn, FFS! Sorry if I'm not being "nice", but people these days are lazy AF! SMDH

We have 2, Fernando doesn’t like them