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"I found the video you shared to be extremely valuable. Thank you very much for taking the time to share your knowledge."

XLNT! I settled on 24v for my small project. Would have liked to do 48v but my initial 2 panel start wouldn't produce over 48v. I have 6 RV panels but ended up with two charge controllers. Gotta love Victron and the way the two controllers and smart shunt all talk to each other. 2 panels on a moveable angle adjustable cart feeding a 100/20. 4 panels fixed angle on roof feeding a 150/35. I wanted to experiment with angle and position of the cart and see if it generated more (or less) than 50% of the roof panels by moving it throughout the day and adjusting angle for the season. Now in the winter I'm really seeing significant differences moving and angle adjusting makes.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge I have learned a lot I love solar I started with a 12 volt system I've upgraded to a 24 volt system and now I'm going to upgrade to a high voltage 24 volt system

I must say that this was very well explained.

I went with the 12v 2kw inverter and its been running fine for half a year or so. I max it out sometimes running a table saw. Keeps most of my led powered. All year long Merry Cristo Mas Lights!

Your video explains it very well. Thanks. I also used an inverter and a deep cycle 12V battery - The inverter burned out after a year and the battery did not last long. 12 Volt systems are not designed for large loads or Watts no matter how you wire it.

Thanks, looking at C rating now cheers

Great content! Thanks for sharing.

Great video, information is spot on.

Took me a while to go over to 48v, starting at 12v then 24v. Because i wanted to learn. I've learnt a lot. But my 48v system is new, just one 48v 50ah lifepo4 at the moment. But it's scalable

Good video though I would add the number one benifit of higher volts is lower current which IS lower resistance resulting in lower HEAT POTENTIAL! A lot of new chargers can do all three 12/24/48v. I’d suggest to anyone dabbling in this area for the first time start at 12v for a few months until your confident to shift up to 24v and home run on 48v.. 12v is safer getting your feet wet.

Good information.

I am using 2000w Modified Inverter with 2 x 12.8v 100Ah ea Gel Batteries in parallel, charging with solar panels, connected with 50A Controller I use this system to power my 170L Fridge on a daily basis + Charging Phones, Laptop. I started to use the system October 2023 till today and I can say that it is working effectively.

The mount you save is will be taken when you purchase batteries

Unfortunately I didn't realise my 48v battery from renogy was a 15s not a 16s, that extra cell makes a big difference to capacity. My battery is new and only settles at 50volts after charging to 54v. Doesn't seem right to me

Excellent videos!

Your video is great!

How do you did your size

There should be more 12v appliances today (meaning no need for 120V / AC voltage step-down conversions) especially for short distance wiring such as RV or mini-van converted campers lifestyle

Very good

Useful

Your videos are very informative, lots for me to learn. I'm configuring a large sailboat for 12 v battery powered devices, most upgraded to LED. The boat came with a 400 w wind turbine, an upgraded 150A alternator on my diesel engine, a 1500W inverter and I plan on adding 2 x 100w solar panels to charge my house batteries which I was thinking would be 2 x 24v lithium batteries. I have room to add 2 more 100W panels in the future. I was thinking for starters 2 solar panels in series. Suggestions?

Nick, am trying to figure out best solar options for my truck camper. I currently have a 2000w inverter (Jupiter from HF), and 2 100AH lipo4 batteries. I would like to go with a 24v system but am confused about what size controller and how to wire a 12v step down converter. The struggle is real.. do you have a 24v schematic for this? Thanks for all your great info. You’ve become my number one source for all things Solar.

great informative video, one thing you did not discuss was the cost difference 12v,24v, and 48v batteries

I really appreciate your videos and I did purchase your book however I’m just just starting to read it. My question is I have a 12 24 4836 and 60 converter. I also have a 12 2448 63,000 watt inverter. How many solar panels would I need to charge using 412 V 100 amp Lipo batteries wired in series. I have purchased already to Rich solar 100 amp solar panels. How many more would I need to charge up this system? I plan to use this to power my two refrigerators if I lose electric because my whole house is electric, no gas no oil heat or everything is electric. I appreciate in advance your help with this question.

Ok make an upsett for el engine on an marine diesel engine in boat Have lithium hybrid inverter and solar Need 10 20kw el engine belt to prop shaft for generator and for electric drive

Meu sistema é em 192vdc 200a

Let’s talk about the actual situation. Currently, the best voltage platform is the 24V platform. The main reason is that various chips, including IC, MOS, and capacitors have insufficient voltage resistance. Anyone with basic knowledge of electricity will use DC-DC step down circuit, not DC-AC. This can maintain extremely high efficiency while being safe, making the overall power consumption efficiency of various electrical appliances reach 96%-98%. Instead of DC-AC boost, AC-DC results in an efficiency close to 60% or even lower. However, the 48V platform is not perfect at present, and it still needs the slow advancement of technology to improve the voltage resistance of peripheral DC equipment before it can be popularized.Moreover, the current battery yield rate and consistency are still very low. After being connected in series to 48V, the failure of one battery in the battery pack will cause the entire battery pack to be eliminated. This results in the waste of a 48V battery pack being twice as much as that of a 24V battery pack with the same capacity.

if we put 4 12v batteries in serial for 48v system and charge 12v batteries one by one independently with alternator. like first charge number one battery. after it is charged go and charge the next one and goes like that. is it possible to make a system for this.

i own a 48v system with 20 - 235W panels and I have purchased 30 - 260W additional panels , this is a 12kw system and will be adding 2 wind turbines as well which put out about 2kw each with 40 mph wind. This system came with 24 AGM batteries 105 Ah with 2 - 80 A Charge controllers, so I know that more charge controllers are necessary for the added panels and I suspect I will need more storage as the area this system will be located is overcast quite a bit, and that is the reason I purchased the other panels and need the extra controllers and batteries. This is my 1st off grid system and am unable to get grid power where this is going for a cabin. What are your thoughts regarding this situation? I feel like the panels added should allow me to charge the batteries (including the new batteries necessary) to overcome the worst conditions during the overcast time. The cabin will have approximately 12kwh of power requirements per day.

Hi cleversolarpower. My battery is 24v. Should i setup 24v solar panel (12v x 4) or 36v (12v x 6) solar panel ?

Please advice, I m using 2x400w solar panels and 3kv hybrid inverter and two 200ah gel batteries but is discharging after 4hours from sunset, and I m only running a plasma 41"TV only. I m in South Africa. ✌️

These days 96V batteries are on the marked, can you make a video with your advise and calculation examples how to setup a system combined with solar?

Pls, bought a charge controller rated voltage of 12/24v, current of 100A with max.pv voltage:50v and max.pv input power; 650w(12v) 1300w(24v) what is the maximum solar panel, inverter and battery rating suitable for it?

what will make a 100amps dc breaker 48v battery bank system to trip?

Hi Sir, I bought 12V 990 watt solar panel, 230A battery and 1100VA inverter. Now how to connect the solar panels series or parallel

Can 24volts solar panels connected to a 12/24 volts charge controller and charge a 12volts 75ah battery?

Wouldn't the Victron Orion 48v DC/DC converter work for a 48v RV for alternator charging?

2:10 How many feet of 2/0 wire are you talking about that is $114? What formula are you using?

Hello, I am using 3000W hybrid inverter, 3x200ah Gel batteries and 2x400w solar panels but it only runs for only 4hours after sunset.

If have solar controll thst have to be for extra panels. Hybrid inverter saves you all ur cycluses

Its good but to be frank you pretty much always want to go straight to 48V 16s (51.2V nominal LiFePO4). The only limitation is that the solar VOC going into the charger controllers has to be 61V+. But that's only 3 x 100W panels in series, or 4 x 50W panels in series, or 2 x residential panels in series. In otherwords, it isn't much of a show-stopper. And you have to use glass auto-fuses instead of blade auto-fuses (all fuses need at least a 60VDC rating), and ANN/CNN (or marine bolt-on) instead of ANL for the main battery fuse. That's it. For alternator connections you always have to use an amperage-limited DC-to-DC converter no matter what the battery topology if the batteries are lithium or if the bank is large. Since most people use lithium these days... LiFePO4 that is. So going 48V is not a show-stopper for alternator charging. The advantages of 48V are so massive that it is really hard to ever justify using a lower voltage. The cost is the same but the flexibility with 48V is massive. Wiring losses (heat) are 1/16th that of 12V, the cables can be thinner in general, and even just going with 2 AWG battery cabling still gives you 100A @ 51.2V = 5120W of capability. The voltage drop across long cables is almost nothing, and numerous other reasons. Equipment heat is also a lot lower and efficiency is a lot higher. And also the very same charge controller can handle 4x the solar in a 48V system that it can in a 12V system (for charge controllers which can handle 12/24/36/48V). Such as a Victron 100/20, for example. Also, for a robust system, particularly with lithium, you ALWAYS want to parallel at least two batteries at the system voltage. So for a 12V system you want to have at least 2 x 12V batteries in parallel. For a 24V system at least 2 x 24V batteries in parallel, and for a 48V system at least 2 x 48V batteries in parallel. Because of this it is generally wise, particularly when using LiFePO4, to buy batteries that are already at the desired system voltage. Then the system can be trivially expanded simply by adding more batteries in parallel without having to worry about the mess that comes with whole-battery balancers in series+parallel configurations. Legacy 12V gear is easy to handle regardless, its just a buck converter. And any heavy loads should either hang off of AC or be directly run from the 24V/48V system voltage (obviously the appliances have to be compatible if run directly from DC). Light appliances are a non-issue since a $15 buck converter usually handles them without issue. So go straight to 48V if you can swing it. And if not, at least start at 24V. -Matt

Just tap into the first 12v battery in your bank if you need 12v

Well, no one running a 48 volt 3,000 watt inverter should really use 6 gauge wire, that's not even a thing..My 3,000 watt inverter came with 4 gauge wires, and good ones, but I replaced those with better quality 2 gauge wires..Wires from inverters to batteries should always be over sized, or the maximum size the inverter will allow for..Short wires are a tiny cost when building a good system..If you are running wires 25-50 feet, that's a different story, but I wouldn't recommend that in just about any situation. I have a cabin in the forest, and I'm in a valley surrounded by mountains, so I don't get alot of sun, especially in the winter..I made a tiltable mount for my 370 watt panels, but it can also move to follow the sun from east to west..Both ends of the mount are 4x4 posts with a square frame made with 2x6's..A ten inch screw goes through the 4x4 posts and through the 2x6's giving me the ability to tilt the system..Which alot of people do..One of my 4x4's is connected to a platform I built from 2x4's and 2x6's and I put four 8 inch wheels underneath, the other 4x4 post is in a 3 foot hole in the ground connected to a bearing plate assembly..So as the sun moves across the southern sky from east to west, I can move the side with the wheels to follow it, while the other 4x4 rotates in place..I also installed some cement plugs in the ground with I bolts, so I can connect wire to the mounting system in it's various positions to secure it, in case of high winds..The system has increased it's output by over 40%, from when it was non tiltable or movable..When it hails I can make my panels go straight up and down, and the same thing when it snows..The panels are bifacial, so I also built a movable reflector for the underside..

48v does not pose any danger of electric shock. Please don't mislead people.