Pls add duramax

Yup its gay af

If you lift your truck, putt the proper size tire & wheels on it. Not those low profile garbage things.

Their money their truck

My car sidewalls are more manly. I can fit truck tires on it with a little trimming

Might as well hang a rubber ball sack from the trailer hitch...

So we’re the 24v

@@jakebrich669 yes but the 12 valves are still running without even on wrench laid to them. They put that motor in farm tractors combines Thrasher's water pumps generators you name it. The 12 valve has a heart of gold I can't say that for the 24

My opinion a 12 valve sounds better plus being quieter in the cab

I’ve only got one issue with 12v and 24v the fuel pumps and injection pumps poor design

Dallas Korpan the 24v yes not the 12v

Therapy? Lol sounds like a school bus. That brings back a lot of childhood trauma.

@@brarautorepairs There's two kinds of people I suppose hahahaah

Love my 12v

@Chris Farley no not on the killer dowel pin they make fix kits or you can make your own there is a bolt right next to it so all you need is thin piece of metal and cut or grind it into a tear drop shape and drill a hole in the bottom of it and put the point over the pin or you can do what some do and just remove the pin if it is almost out it is not needed when I do mine I'll see if it has moved if not I'll leave it in with the fix if it has moved I'll pull it out. Yes a 12v should pull that reliably 👍

i have a 6.7 but I would agree👍🏻

Chris Farley +1 for the 12 valve, bad ass engine will last a lifetime as long as you take care of it

Chris Farley hey just letting you know I bought a 1997 12 valve Cummins and it has 262,000 miles and I just did the killer dowel pin. It consists of taking out the radiator, serpentine belt, the clutch fan, oil fill tube, a few small accessories, and than the front timing cover. Than after that it’s real simple with the tab kit you just make sure the dowel pin is in the hole all the way flush and there’s a threaded hole right next to it that you lay the tab over and a bolt will bolt it right In, 18 ft lbs of torque on it, red lock tite, and she’s bullet proof

The 24 valves are trash. After two lift pumps, an injection pump, a bad ecm, and a engine fire later, I'll never own a 24 valve again and I don't think I'll fully ever trust a Cummins

Nicholas Burch the first thing I did was to put an Air Dog Raptor in mine, keep the FP up, should be ok, also always run an additive. An ECM could go bad on anything. New trucks have 40 computers. I’m all for keeping my VP44 truck going.

@@detroitdiesel-vu3ig well damn

Hell yea! Awesome s**t right there!

Upload a video about it I’ll be willing to see that beast!

Damn thats o awesome.. my 03 f150 v6 4.2 stick shift had 455.000 but is about to die.. I notice, that's why I ended up getting a 00 ram.

my 97 Rame has 2,197,682 miles and still running like new

ALF DOGG bull shit man

Why is it easier to do upgrades on?

@@jaydenherrera6970 Better aftermarket for the 24V.

What 3 speed transmission is in the 12 valve?

@@vinoewhines 47RH more than likely. Just a hydraulic version of the 47RE.

amen to that!!!

Same. I drive a 2nd gen 12v 5 speed short cab dually. I live in dallas and drive 2 hours a day in heavy traffic. I like the 2nd gen because it's more comfortable. Mines almost mint with ice cold ac and radio. I do have to turn radio up because of how loud the engine is. I have it making 400hp and like to go fast

@@thesunflowchannel1995 Haha one thing you can definitely say about 2nd gen and newer trucks they definitely are more comfortable riding than the 1st gens. 1st and 2nd gens is where it's at for me. After that the government ruined diesels requiring so much emissions garbage especially with the 6.7 it has destroyed the reliability and fuel mileage we enjoy with our trucks.

@Chris Farley Should be. No computer work needed though youd need a pretty heavy duty engine hoist as these engines tend to weight around 1200 lbs. They sell tranny adapters of all sorts the 12v seems to be the most commonly swapped diesel

@Chris Farley I totally understand your situation my friend and I'm lucky enough to have a minivan for the family hauling but I know many can only afford their to have their truck to do everything. If you really, REALLY want a 1st or 2nd gen unfortunately if you want a ''mega cab'' for the family you're going to either have to find someone selling a converted truck (there were NO factory 1st gen 4 door trucks sadly and very few 2nd gens) OR buy a truck and have it converted. This still would be cheaper than doing an engine swap into a newer truck because with each generation, tons of electronics and emissions equipment was added. My recommendation is to either go with a new truck and if you're in a state/country that you don't have to get the vehicle inspected for emissions do a delete (it's still a federal law violation, but those corrupt crooks violate laws daily so screw'em I say! lol) The delete will make the 6.7 very damn reliable comparable to cost of an older truck but if a delete is not an option I'd look for a 3rd gen truck. Here's a brief description what you'd get per year and note the newer, the MORE likely you can find a nice big cab. 03 SO - don't see too many. not sure of power ratings maybe close to 265hp and 440 torque. Nothing wrong with the truck/motor combo. 03-04 HO - 305 hp and 555 torque. Most like because the motor is very responsive to hp upgrades, and they did not come with a catalytic converter. 04.5-05 - 325 hp and 600 torque. Again very upgradeable, easy to add lots of power, but came with a catalytic converter which seem to fall off anyway. 06-07- 325 hp and 610 torque. Same as above, for the most part. Just newer grille and headlights. 07.5-08 - 6.7 liter 350 hp and 650 torque. Some say the fuel mileage is not as good as the 5.9s because of the DPF, and EGR emissions regulations. Other than that great trucks. Good luck friend, mo matter your choice if you do the usual checks when buying a used vehicle (blow by check, proper maintanence check) you're getting an engine that can last a lifetime!

@Chris Farley I think the best option for you would be to buy a Ford 7.3 with a crew cab. The 7.3 is just as reliable as the 5.9, and you could easily find a mid-90's F350 crew cab around the $8k range. The 6.0 is actually a great engine as long as it's deleted and bulletproofed, or it's an '05 or newer. My dad has had both: an '03 and an '05 6.0. We noticed problems with the '03 as early as a year after buying the truck. It kept dying the whole way out to our ranch. But the '05 has had no issues. When we had another '03 6.0 and the engine blew, we looked twice into swapping a 12v into the truck. The conversion easily added up to over $17K. So we decided that, since the trans had low miles and you could do more to improve a 6.0 than you could a 6.4, we'd just install a new 6.0 in it.

Note perfectly good vision. All I see is wannabe

All I see is, trucks trying to be a pickup. I bet if you look at, the rig that tows these mall crawlers, it is a real truck.

Lol, not to bright. That's why I said, "if you looked." you dont see a tow rig, because they are doing a video of these wannabe pickups cruising the city streets. Lol

Then why are you still responding? Good day sir, have a splendid friday! Keep burning dinosaurs.

Mall crawlers

nathan campbell no difference between tow other than head lol

@@codyyellott117 better flowing head would reduce egt's, giving the same engine a better WORKING power. I solved my towing issues though. Sold the ram and bought a freightliner.

How is that going for you?

@@drewbot69 so far I’ve been dailying it for work since it has a dump bed. I plan on buying a d250 for a donor engine and a oem gm dually bed

I hear you. Had an 01 2500 with a 47re. Would run a little rough right after startup but smoothed out quickly. Took it in to the dealer and they " could not duplicate". Moved 1300 miles away towing a trailer and it ran fine. Bout a 6 months later it quit. Different dealer replaced the fuel pump. So that's what that noise is that I was supposed to be hearing before start. Ran for over a year with a bad lift pump. A year later I had to replace the VP44 when it failed. Learned what that shreider valve is for ( checking fuel pressure ). Did that at every oil change from then on. Everyone has to tell me how crappy the Dodge auto transmissions are. Mine had 205K on it when I sold it. Never had problem one with it. Filter and fluid change every year. Sold it to a friend so I still see it driving every day hauling his trailer. I did educate him on checking the fuel pressure into the VP44. Even gave him my pressure gauge. Now I'm down to just my '06 5.9 HO common rail. Standard cab long bed 4wd. It has the 48re with 155K and has given me no troubles although I would like a manual. This one I will never sell

Exactly! I have the same HD NV5600 Cummins with an AirDog Raptor transfer pump, non 53 block, '00 model 4x4. It's basically a single tire 1 ton truck. Had it since '02, never selling. Love it!

Great info! 03s also have a 360 degree thrust bearing, which I believe is unique to that one year as far as common rails go. You’re right about the emissions equipment too. Additionally, 98.5 to 2002 second gen 24 valves didn’t require catalytic converters either because they were, at the time, compliant with federal emissions requirements without them. They instead had resonators. Same thing with the 03 to 04.5 common rails (non California versions), no catalytic converters from the factory. The 12 valves require catalytic converters, to be legal that is. This is the reason you can still easily buy turbo back exhaust systems in the US for the aforementioned years. Other years you’ll only find cat back systems.

You could get early 3rd gen HO's with an automatic, it was the 2nd gen HO that were manual only and they were still putting NV5600's behind the HO engine for 2005 models.

Did you do the conversion?

I'm pretty dumb on the subject, but can you do this?

Or more work/mud truck like not these pavement princesses

Why?

@@farmerboy9029 they have the same engines he was talking about so it doesnt matter

@@mryeast1538 because they look stupid and don't go well with the message of the video.

@@JohnButler350 the message of the video is which one is better 12v or 24v. Not which build is best

Have you decided on anything yet? My goals are the same as yours...A lot of 10,000 lb towing with fuel efficiency. My build plan is a Ford crew cab with a 12 valve Cummins. If I can find one with manual trans, the truck should get a minimum of 4mpg better than a Powerstroke with auto trans. I'll be driving 100k per year so that extra 4mpg is worth $6,000/yr in fuel savings.

But wich one has more economy the 12v our the 24valve?

Cummins. No G. Get it right

We're supposed to believe you've worked on these and still call it a Cummings

Same here. My '96 ain't much to look at, but she gets the job done and is just fun to drive.

how did u come up with a new engine, Cummings? CUMMINS!!!

That's because smog inspections are done only on model year 1998 and newer diesels. This is coming from a licensed smog inspector. Also, it's Cummins, not Cummings.

355,000 on mine still runs great.

285,000 on my 2005 5.9 24V