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nice to have a lady mechanic, well done

I really appreciated this video. As an upcoming female mechanic. Very informative. Thank you.

Sue, thank you so very much for all your amazing guidance, you have been tremendously helpful for a long time now - Thanks a million!

I have this exact year CRV. Planning to replace worn bushes on the lower control arm , struts and sway bar links and bushes this weekend. Thank you for this excellent tutorial Sue

I can't wait to replace my control arms (and struts) and get a much smoother and quieter ride on my aging '09 CR-V. It clunks and clanks over every little bump in the road and when I accelerate or brake, there's a ton of vibration at highway speeds, the steering is wandering all over the road, the tire wear is very uneven, the camber is way off, and the ball joints are about ready to completely fail and kill me. I'm doing this job Memorial Day weekend, and this video is fantastic! Excited to tackle this job.

It's the same on my 2012 Honda CR-V. The only difference is at 5:02. In this video for 2007-2011, the front mounting bolt is horizontal and 17mm. On my 2012 Honda CR-V it is two 19mm bolts mounted vertically. This actually makes it easier because later you don't need to lower the car before the final bolt tightening in order to compress the front bushing while in a neutral-resting suspension position. I used a wobble with my 12mm just like Sue did at 8:15. The castle nut is 19mm and needs a wrench, a socket will not fit. I just beat on the control arm with downward blows of a small mallet instead of using a pickle fork, however I live in California so rust is not an issue. I used the metal rod that's used to crank the Honda scissor jack to help me pry the new control arm into position. I started at the rear bushing and used a scrap piece of wood and hammer to tap small movements until the first bolt hole finally aligned. It took several minutes of grunting and if you're below average strength like me you may want a helper to get the new part on, however I had no helper so if I can do it then you can too. I couldn't find torque specs so I just copied Sue's.

Thank you for your training. I completed the replacement on my 2014 crv

Great video! I'm about to replace both lower ball joints. This helps me to have the right tools. 😊

First time I see a mechanic lady, she work good

Clear, concise instructions, thanks very much.

Muy instructivo e importante, muy bien explicado felicitaciones

5 stars..your videos are the best!!!

Great video… Thank you very much…

Great job

Very detailed great video. Also where you get those socket wrenches. Those are nice. I need a pair of them.

How do you remove the bushing bracket off the control arm?

Great video.How many mm does the internal diameter of the chisel measure?Thank you in advance

great job , Thank You.

thanks the video was a big help

Hello does this apply to the 2012 as well?

after changing it you have to do alignment?

Awesome video,,,,THANKS!!

That swivel socket for that one tough to reach nut is extremely intimidating. I have to replace a control arm, ball point, and sway bar link.... not looking forward to it, but driving on cobble stones in the city is driving me mad.

Dont you have to have the car on the floor before tightening the bolts? I hear the bushings will tear, or up in the air is fine ?

When do you need to replace the control arm, vs just the bushings?

Is it better to change only the bush or it's better to change the whole thing??

Amazing

Is an alignment required after this?

How do you know when the control arms need to be changed?

Always torque to spec with the suspension loaded.

Nice 👌

I have a creaking noise coming somewhere in that control arm. What could be causing it?

Is it necessary to perform an alignment after performing this procedure?

without grease before mounting the old screws !!!!!!!

Also works with 07-11 Acura RDX

What is the reason the control arm needed replacing?

فيديو رائع لديا سؤال أرجو مساعدتي سيارتي هونداCR.V2008 فيها مشكلة تسريب كهرباء اترك السيارة يومين بدون تشغيل بطارية السيارة تفرغ أستبدلت البطارية مرتين وفحصت كل شي بلسيارة ولم أجد سبب تسريب الكهرباء أرجو مساعدتي هل لديك فكرة وشكرا جزيلا

Shouldn't you have lowered the car on the ground and tightened the bolts to spec afterwards? I'm guessing the bushings will twist once the car is lowered and will rip apart in a very short time

When you tightened up the bushing nut, once the car is on its feet, you permanently strain than bushing in the car’s neutral position, greatly reducing the life of that bushing. You have to jack the assembly to neutral then tighten this bushing. The other side is already right and has brackets so it will not be strained in its neutral position. Mechanics do this all the time. Makes me wonder if the schools teach this at all.

Wrong reinstall process. Before tightening the screws, the fork must be in working position!

My dealership is asking $600 just to replace the bushings. Its looking like I'm paying.