Merci : )

Thank you. I know a bit,

: ) Muchas gracias.

Thanks : )

Qué ha encontrado aquí? ¿Hizo una reparación artesanal con las manos desnudas en su regazo y lo llama un gran trabajo ??? Recomiendo ir al sitio Alexander skripchenko y admirar la verdadera calidad de las reparaciones de los motores !!! ¡Ahí es donde está el gran trabajo !!! ¡No pierdas la oportunidad de comparar falso y original !!! ¡No te arrepentirás y estarás agradecido ! Disfrute de la navegación en el sitio de Alexander !!!

@@user-ui4jr3vz9x u

Thanks, Sounds better for sure now, It was way too loud for me,i didn't like this lubing system.

@@michaelovitch It makes a huge difference when pieces of metal are lubricated. If only the previous owner looked after the car.

Merci : )

Merci : )

Merci : )

Gracias.

Thank you : )

Thank you : )

Muchas gracias from France : )

Siendo un chico de Rusia , cada vez que sube un video, presiono el dedo hacia abajo y no miro más , porque solo los reparadores primitivos reparan los motores: no hay un dispositivo manual para quitar los resortes de las válvulas de admisión y escape y se usa una Prensa hidráulica ; las juntas de las válvulas se quitan con alicates , arriesgándose a romper los frágiles manguitos de las válvulas ; la Junta debajo del colector de admisión no ha sido reemplazada ; la cabeza de la unidad no ha sido recortada , aunque la Junta debajo de la cabeza se ha quemado . ¡En Rusia, para tales reparaciones, las manos del cerrajero se arrancarán !¡Mira la reparación del motor en el sitio web de Alexander skripchenko !!! Y comprenderéis ! ¡Disfruta viendo a Alexander!!! Hola !

I'm happy if it was interesting to watch.

Thanks. You need to change the timing chain ?

The camshaft is inside the engine block, not in the head. That's why those engines are a charm to work with, and that's why the valve tappets are noisy because of the "large" gap between the rockers and the exhaust valve tappets. I have a 1986 Mk2 Fiesta that has that same engine block and uses exactly the same head gasket, the major difference is in the chamber shape and uses a carburetor and mechanical distributor. Those engines have a very unique sound, I can tell if one is coming from a distance.

@@michaelovitch bonjour. Je dois faire la même opération sur ma fiesta mk2. Vais-je devoir faire la distribution ?

@@TearsProd Bonjour, si c'est le même moteur,non,la distribution est dans le bloc moteur,en dessous de la culasse.

Merci : )

Thanks : )

Obrigado.

Thank you, I was happy when the fan kicked in,i thougt it could be the cause of all this mess,but no. the 90° final tightening is used , but not here : the shop manual didn't mentionned it,neither the head gasket manufacturer. For my previous car,a volvo 240 ,i had to warm up the engine,torque it again , then run the car for 1000 kms and torque it again. Depends on the head size,number of screws,load on the screws,gasket material (fiber,or steel layers) and vibrations i guess knowing how gas and diesel are different. They use more and more angular tightening instead of torque tightening,you are more accurate with angular,and do not rely on friction to measure the force applied. If you have some rusted threads,or more or les oil on the screws you can get one screw way more tight than the other while the torque wrench see the same force applied. Generally there is a low torque value at the beginning to squeeze a bit the gasket,and angular values to get things even when you use more force on the tool. Your message was not notified by youtube,so don't be surprised if i don't asnwer. They don't notify at least 10 % of the comments,i don't know why.

@@michaelovitch How odd about the comments, or in my case it's a thick book of jibbering ha ha :-D. I wonder why the repair manual left out the 90 degree step. A parallel book for diy repairs is the haynes manual. I've always liked the fact that they take a machine apart and show the process and how to do it. Often they have cheap methods to remove something without the 'Special Tool' that cost the earth for one use only. Stretch bolts came to mind, i have some random thoughts lol :-D I'm chuffed you recovered the engine, it's one step closer to getting the car you actually want :-D.

Merci, ça ne fait "que" 170 cv de plus que celle là : ) A quelle pression turbo elle sort ça ?

@@michaelovitch pression jpense 2,9 ou 3 je me rapelle plus ,J'ai un capteur 4Bar dessus 300nm

They do match,the rectangles were created by the exhaust fumes going through the cooling system,they torched the gasket orifices and made them bigger. Manufacturers tend to modify gaskets ,they update their design,holes sizes to modify cooling flow, the material etc,so you can see differences from a manufacturer to an other,or simply through time.

On this engine,the timing is obtained with a chain. The camshaft is on the bottom of the engine,not in the cabeza. So,la syncronizacio'n is not modified at all. Es un motor con balancin y varilla empujadora,la cadena es en el bajo motor,no en la cabeza.

: ) Thanks

: )

Thanks : )

Thank you. -Check the lightbulb. -Check if you have voltage at the light bulb with a multimeter when you engage the rear gear. -Check fuses. -If still not working ,check the rear gear switch is plugged in or simply working as a switch,it's on the gearbox i believe. If still not reverse light on,check continuity on the wires. You need a multimeter to do that. negative lead on the battery negative,or the chassis ground. positive lead where you should have 12 V coming at the wire. Continuity tests are made with the ohm meter function.

الله لا يرحكم دمرنوا العالم صارت الارض غير صالحة للحياة

: )

: )

Yes and no. You don't have the timing belt to remove ,so you don't have the accessory belt to remove either,and its tensionner to adjust if it's not a spring loaded tensionner. But you have valves to adjust,one by one,because you remove the valve train rocker assembly. Sometimes,on engines, you can have a (sohc) single over head camshaft,so a timing belt to remove,and a valve train to remove and adjust too. It's the case on TU engines from peugeot,wich have rollers to roll on the camshaft,so they have rockers,and a valve train asembly. Having rollers,and not flat tappets ,they can use very low sulfur engine oils ,wich are used nowadays on diesel engines equipped with particulates filters while they were designed in the 80's. There is not a huge difference between both systems,but it's less trouble to not have to check and re-check the timing.

They are small on the new one,simply because they were damaged on the old one,by exhaust gases going through the cooling system. Sometimes manufacturers update them,so you can see minor differences ,mostly on coolant passages,to redirect coolant flow,to get better cooling.

@@michaelovitch thanks, everything is clear now

I would buy anything wich is cheap and common,even if it has flaws,specially known flaws that you work with or fix. Generally,simple rough mechanic has more potential or resrve for you to hav fun with. So ,yes i would.

@@michaelovitch I never used to like OHV engines because of how loud many of them sounded but i do now because you're video is proof that they can run fairly quiet and have several advantages over SOHC/DOHC engines. For me the best ever OHV engines was the old Fiat OHV and Renault Cleon Fonte engine. Bulletproof engines

@@jaggass I agree,my grand father had a fiat panda with that engine in it.

Bonjour,merci. Le calage n'est pas nécessaire ,rien n'a été désynchronisé,la distribution est dans le bloc moteur,car l'arbre à cames s'y trouve,c'est le cas de tous les moteurs culbutés avec l'arbre à cames dans le bloc moteur et non dans la culasse. Oui de l'huile,les filets doivent être lubrifiés,ainsi que les écrous,pour ne pas tromper la clé dynamométrique avec des frottements parasites. C'est pour avoir un serrage répétable,même conditions pour toutes les vis. Ici ,elles ont réutilisables une fois, c'est indiqué dans la revue technique,on peut simplement les mesurer ,et voir si elles sont allongées,déformées ou pas. Le remplacement est soit nécessaire,soit inutile. "conseiller" un remplacement n'est pas normal : il y a une raison, ou pas,c'est de la mécanique. Les vis sont censées être élastiques et reprendre leur forme (déformation élastique) Si elles se déforment et ne reprennent pas leur forme (déformation plastique ) alors elles s'allongent ,et perdent leur force de serrage. Tu peux connaitre leur dimension en regardant les données des vis neuves,et mesurer les tiennes. Souvent les moteur diesel nécessitent un remplacement systématique,étant plus sujets à des fortes pressions dans le cylindre.

@@michaelovitch bonjour super merci j'en apprends ! Je vais bien regarder cela dans la revue technique je pense être sur le même moteur mais jvais bien contrôler tout cela! Encore merci pour cette réponse et explications précises 😉✌️

The manual for this car says that you can reuse them twice if i remember correctly In any case ,whatever the technic used to tighten them,you can measure the screws. Their length is supposed to stay the same than new,the length is indicated when you buy them. They deform permanently when over tightened,not permanently when used normally,they are like springs. There is plastic deformation,(permanent deformation after passed its limits of deformation ) and elastic deformation ( temporary deformation when tightened within its elastic limits)

Hi from France : )

There are,but small compared to old ones wich were torched,made bigger by the exhaust gases going in the coolant passages. Coolant flwo is generally slow in the head,to allow heat to transfer to coolant. To much flow = no time to excahnge heat,and turbulences,wich don't help to get good contacts.

Your comment ,like many,was notified to me by KZfaq. I saw it because i got an other one,notified. The hissing is a vacuum leak,it was the PCV hose wich is normally connected to the valve cover. It was removed here to be able to run the engine without valve cover and to don't have the hose attached to it The idle was high too because of that.

@@michaelovitch That was a nice lockdown project and it should drive very nice after all the work you've done to it.

: ) Thank you You are doing really useful ,Bonjour de France : )

Hola, 30 Nm first with a torque wrench 90° angular tightening as second step 90° angular tightening again as third step When you buy the gasket you should have a paper with instructions in the package.

Bonjour, Un doigt ou un joint ?

Bonjour, Il faut lire le ou les codes défauts enregistrés avec un lecteur OBD. Il faut ensuite selon le ou les codes diagnostiquer le problème. ça peut être du à énormément de choses. Il me faut plus de renseignements pour aider.

It was 5w40 oil,from a not completly empty jug,i had enough left to use on this car. What you used is quite thin,is that really that more quieter ? I would have thought that a thicker oil would dampen a bit more the mechanical parts and reduce noise.

I could be very well mistaken but pretty sure it has got quieter due to fresh oil. Toyota VVTi engines have always been a bit tappety on the outside but sounds much smoother and goes like a rocket now. I'm changing the top engine mount in the future as the rubber has cracked and wondering whereabouts i should jack the engine. Really don't want to dent the sump.

@@jaggass If it's flowing better i guess it's quieter,being able to coat parts better. The best is to jack up the engine from the edge of the block,where it's strong and thick. At worst,spreading the load on a big surface to push on the sump is the best of worst you can do. Depends of the sump's shape.

@@michaelovitch I might be better off using a hoist ad hooks I really don't want to damage my sump.

@@michaelovitch A garage said the top engine mount is cracked a little bit and the engine doesn't violently shake on start up. When it becomes excessive like it's gonna drop out then i will have it changed.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h9WcnbmluZyZk6c.html Il faut bien appuyer sur le coté qui est en contact avec la tige de culbuteur avec le doigt quand on mesure le jeu avec les cales,sinon on sous évalue le jeu,il y en a trop,et le moteur risque d'être bruyant. : )

Yes, mostly cars parts websites,amazon takes a fee on those, being an other intermediate,so it's often more expensive through them. Generally, it's oscaro,autodoc, or whatever website having the same reputable brand the less expensive ,shiping included. I compare prices to get the most possible,i even buy on two different websites if parts are cheaper on two separate purchase than on a single one both , shipping included. You can easily get 15 % immediate less spending doing that,for the same brand,part number. it can add up fast otherwise,i try to stay cheap,i'm not the rich kind...

michaelovitch I hace found extremely cheap items in Amazon Spain, rear shock aborbers for a Golf 4: 12€ each (kyb excel g) and recently a skf timing belt complete kit fot 35 € less than the next one.... It doesnt hurt to check.... Pn the other hand, I bought a gates subaru timing belt kit with water pump for 169€, oscaro 269€ and amazon almost 600€!!!!

@@honestguy7764 excel G are pretty good,that' s cheap for sure. I'll check more "intensively" before buying. Thanks.

Thanks, For this engine it's 3 daN.m for first pass Then 90° second pass Then 90° third pass You may have an updated head gasket or other method / values with your new head gasket. Change the screws too,it's a good thing to do.

@@michaelovitch thanks for your tips, i did it. Unfortunately now the engine do not start 😅 I guess the timing moved somehow, maybe the engine rotated a bit while it was opened and now the timing is not right. It sparks, and I put the spark cables in the same order, but it do not start even with spray. What do dou think?

@@florinmihai7929 Timing can't move on overhead head camshaft engines like this one. If it does not start it's because of something else. Try to see if you have spark occuring when crancking the engine. Remove a spark plug,and put its wire on it,then touch the spark plug on the engine ,then cranck it. If no spark is visible,check if you installed back the different sensors or plugs on the wire looms. A cranck position sensor not plugged in will not allow you to have spark at all. Be sure you have fuel,the fuel pump should buzz a bit when you listen carefully,it's under the rear seats. Are you sure you tried to cranck the car long enough,the fuel line maybe just empty,and needs ti fill back up ?

@@michaelovitch I have sparks, very nice ones. Fuel pump works, I can hear it but the engine do not start event when I spray it with motor starter spray. Are you sure the timing can't be delayed? Even if I moved the car a little bit in first gear when the engine was opened? I also cleared throttle sensor. I wonder if i put it back corectly...

@@florinmihai7929 You can't alter the timing between pistons and camshaft on this engine. The camshaft is in the engine block,and both are linked by a chain. Removing the head only alter the valve gap via the rocker arms. Maybe there is not enough clearance,so you don't have any compression in the engine. You should hear the engine spinning fast,and without loading the starter. You could move the engine as much you want,as soon as you install the rocker arm assembly,it would reopen and close the valves as it should. I don't think the throttle sensor is needed to start the engine. check the valve adjustment. You need spark,fuel,and compression to start an engine. You say that you have spark and fuel,you just need to be sure to have spark at the good time. ignition wires are at their correct place ?

Merci, Pas systématiquement,il faut voir ce qui est indiqué sur la revue technique ou la documentation disponible. Ici on peut les utiliser deux fois. Il faut savoir que les vis ont une longueur spécifique donnée par le fabricant,et qu'on peut les mesurer pour comparer. Ces vis ne sont pas censer s'allonger de façon définitive lors du serrage,mais de façon élastique,s'étirer un peu sous tension. Elles reprennent leur longueur de départ une fois desserrées. c'est la déformation élastique (reprend sa forme de départ ) et déformation plastique ( se déforme et reste déformé ) Elles fatiguent cependant après des centaines de milliers de kilomètres,et des cycles chaud/froid,et des pulsations constantes qu'elles subissent à chaque explosion/combustion. C'est pour ça qu'ici ,deux fois,deux serrages , c'est la limite raisonnable.

@@michaelovitch merci pour votre réponse, c'est très instructif je ne savais pas qu'il existait deux types de déformations possible ! En tout cas bravo pour votre travail, peut on savoir combien vous a coûté la voiture avec les réparation ?

@@sebastientalvard3439 521€ pour une voiture entièrement révisée : )

@@michaelovitch génial ! J'aurais pensé plus avec le joint de culasse hihi belle affaire :)

depends on what's indicated on the manual,following the torque specs,or steel quality,and type of head gasket. There are some guys wich doble the horse power with turbos and keep the same steel head gasket and reuse head bolts several times...

: )

Bonjour, Il faut vérifier le jeu aux soupapes,il est souvent bruyant sur ces moteurs.

Yes,you hear nothing,even when cold. there is not enough oil in those from factory i think. That's why you have that much gunk under the valve cover,you have a small amount of oil,and mostly dirty vapors,so it's not washed away by circulating oil.

@@michaelovitch Do OHV engines use more than OHC engines?

@@jaggass More oil ? Pushrods engines seems to see less oil flow per component. On a pushrod engine,you need to send oil to more places than on a sohc engine,you have the lifters,and lifter shaft to lube,like the pushrods. On a a flat tappet engine,you send oil in the lifters bores,and cam journals,it's lubing the whole set up.

@@michaelovitch Is that why OHV get tappety over time due to less oil flow and gunked up oil channels?

@@jaggass Possible yes. Having restrited flow is never good,and this engine is lacking of oil in the head to begin with.

You can't ?

That motor dont have new bolts old go fine

Bonjour, Si c'est une fuite entre le collecteur et la culasse,oui,le collecteur est démontable sans enlever la culasse.

@@michaelovitch l accès un peut galère j arrive pas voir ou situé exactement les vis

@@bylkihad8571 Tu peux filmer avec le téléphone et le flash,pour les trouver,ou juste regarder à quoi ressemble le joint,il y a la position des vis qui est indiquée grâce aux trous de vis du joint. C'est souvent à tâtons qu'on travaille à l'arrière d'un bloc moteur.

I did it already here : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h9WcnbmluZyZk6c.html You need to push on the pushrod with a finger when you measure the gap,so the adjustment is more accurate.

@@michaelovitch thanks for vedio👍

I can't translate correctly. What do you mean ?

Une Citroën c 3_ boite a eau fuyante et mayo un peu a la culasse !comment être certain ? Merci

Oiuhouh

P

Urmăriți numărul 5: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rMymaqiasdPOlqM.html Verific chiulasa :)

Yes,about the same work,except here it was a failed head gasket and not just for fun : )

@@michaelovitch What? Renault 21's head gasket was failed? When?

@@Hamza.234 Renault 21 is ok. This one failed.

@@michaelovitch Ha ok understood now. sorry friend but it is seeing as working at video it is failed from after video?

Yes, i still have it ,i 'm finishing it. I've bought a headlight,and need to get it inspected,then i will sell it. I just went to see a new car this afternoon,for the same price.

@@michaelovitch Nice one.

@@jaggass It's an ugly one lol

@@michaelovitch Ford Scorpio?

@@jaggass It's not that big,it's french,and it's round like a suppository,and zillions of it were produced. It's nor very original,but it's should be interesting.

5/100 is very little and allowed up to way more that that,even on diesel engines. You just follow the manufacturer recommandations,it's what i did here. You are not allowed to modify a lot of engine heads,specially on diesel engines,so your statement is not correct. A head gasket replacement do not means you have to resurface the head.

I'm in France. You want my mail adress ?

: )

Quel est le problème ?

@@michaelovitch toujour Manque d'eau dans la voiture

@@michaelovitch jai un partener 1.9

@@user-dy7si4kp1l Il faut regarder si il y a des fuites visibles de liquide. Si non,vérifier que le liquide ne s'échappe pas dans le circuit de refroidissement. Le vase d'expansion ne doit pas laisser des bulles sortir .

@@michaelovitch merci beaucoup mais il ya pas de fuite aujourd'hui jai remarqué la vapeur sortie dans chappement avec d'eau je pense que d'eau mélangées avec l'huile dans moteur excuse moi de dérangement