Thank you for the feedback!!

My pleasure. Glad you liked it!

Thank you for the feedback - good luck when you decide to take on the job!

@@johnsworkshop3312 tackled one today. Perfect!

@@christopherpecina1158 Thank you for the feedback!

Thanks for the feedback!!

Thank you for the feedback!!

Thank you Josh!

I really appreciate your feedback. Thank you Rhino Rider!

You’re very welcome. Glad I could help.

Wow, great compliment. Thank you Terry.

Thanks for the feedback! And good luck on your upcoming job!

Thanks for the feedback! Good luck on that drivers side!!

@@johnsworkshop3312 it was so much faster, i never want to do it again tho. original rotors and parking brake. salt free truck from out west, hopefully i never have to replace.

Thanks for your comment. I hope the driver side goes smoothly!

@@mipakr I hope you’re right!

Thanks for the feedback. Good luck on your truck!

Bad news: the entire parking brake mechanism beyond the cable was removed by the previous owner. No wonder it didn’t work! Good news: OEM ACDelco replacement was only $57 on Amazon, shoes included. Got your video bookmarked to assist with the repair when it arrives.@@johnsworkshop3312 Thank you!

Thanks Terry!!

Wow - thanks for sharing that. I guess I was really luck on the rust. Probably have much less salt here in the midwest, and this truck didn't do much duty in the snow.

Thanks for the feedback. I always struggle with how much detail to include so it doesn’t get too long. Thanks for taking the time to write a comment.

Nvm dust brake shield *

You're right. On the rust question - it depends on how bad it is. There are two purposes to that: 1) hold the various parts and 2) provide some protection from the elements. If the outer edges are rusting away, that may be ok, but if the rust is weakening the parts more near the center, that could be a problem.

Thank you. Glad it helped

Glad you liked it!

Thank you, Bill!

Thank you D!

@@johnsworkshop3312 I use my wire brush on my bench grinder more than any other tool! I kept wanting to loan it to you! :D

@@dziggy3004 wish I had time to clean off the frame rust and seal it up with something.

@@johnsworkshop3312 I was thinking about cleaning up the bolts (from thread locker) and plungers, et al...

@@dziggy3004 Ah, gotcha. That is a good idea.

Thank you!

I wish there was a hole in the plate.

Thanks for the comment. Good luck, and I hope you don’t encounter much rust!

Thank you for replying! One more question I replaced my brake pads, calipers and the hoses why my brakes still feels like they lacking,my tires are hard to spin them? TIA.!

@@JoseJimenez-ee2gr with new calipers they should back off pretty well. The only thing I can think of is maybe there is air in the lines. That can cause odd behavior, but you would notice a squishy pedal.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!!!

Thank you for the feedback!!

Thank you!

Thank you!!

I wonder if the reason it is harder in one direction is due to the transmission turning. I had both rear wheels off the ground so when I turned one, the other turned too.

You’re welcome. Thanks for your comment!

I’m super lucky to have little rust. Need to spray more oil on it now. Starting to look a little more rusty.

You read my mind 😂 My new england Silverado is a rust bucket 🪣 😞

@@jaystrappa I used some por-15 on mine (a 2001 silverado in Ohio), and it's awesome!

don’t be Salty🤣

How far is yours adjusted too where the two cables meet under the driver side? Mines maxed out and I want to adjust it right seeing as my pedal goes all the way down

@@Teddybites meaning you've got the nut tightened all the way down and cable is very loose when parking brake is release, and not tight enough when parking brake is engaged? --> You may want to LOOSEN the nut and then use the parking brake a few times so the auto-tensioner at the parking brake pedal can ratchet up some of that slack. Let me find that video i bookmarked about how the parking brake tensioner works with new parking brake shoes in, my nut is about 1/2 way down. it will vary from truck to truck depending on how much slack the parking brake auto-tensioner has ratcheted down. with parking brake released, the cable shouldn't have enough tension to pull the lever at the parking brake drum I think "perfect" setting is where the first couple clicks of pushing the parking brake does not hold the vehicle from moving - you just removing the slack from the cable. This prevents parking brake from continually having force against parking brake drum when brake is released. Otherwise you will wear out the emergency brake lining. In general, properly adjusted, the parking brake does not need much travel to fully lock the wheels, as long as the brakes start holding with pedal about halfway down, you're good. Once you've put the rotor back on, you should be able to turn the wheel by hand with both wheels off the ground(open differential), a slight grinding noise is ok since the parking brake isn't perfectly centered so one edge will touch the inside drum and cause that sound. Put in neutral if your differential is a locker/limited slip and can't normally turn the wheel.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m95jpc-FrJPQdpc.html&ab_channel=TheGAutomotiveAndMore Note you do not need to do the parking brake reset. This is just showing you that there is a parking brake adjuster that will take the slack out of the cable by ratcheting the cable tighter when parking brake is released.

@@thebluelunarmonkey thank you for that video you posted that was my problem!!!

@@Teddybites you're welcome !

If you have someone operate the emergency brake while you look at the back of the the two rear brake backing plates you can double check that the cable is moving. If that is the case then I’d recommend pulling the rear rotors to check condition of the shoes and other linkage components

@@johnsworkshop3312 good idea! Thanks

I have the pedal released when pulling the rotor off. Otherwise the shoes will be trying to grab it while you’re pulling it off. Sorry to hear about the broken bracket, but glad you got it sorted out. Once it is adjusted right you won’t be able to turn the rotor or pull it off with the parking brake applied because the shoes will be grabbing so hard.

Good point! Even if it is not asbestos, that dust is certainly not something you want to breathe in.

It was in park and both rear wheels were off the ground. It was also in 2 wheel drive. With the parking brakes adjusted properly the wheels should rotate without dragging. If you have a limited slip differential (and I’m not sure if they put them in these trucks) then you would need to be in neutral and both wheels would turn in the same direction and the driveshaft would be turning.

Thanks for the tip!

I think you are just fine to drive it temporarily. On these the pedal does go to the floor when the brake is set. The parking brake should not interfere with normal driving. Just be careful if you park on a hill. That noise is probably one of the parking brake shoes rubbing on something. Good luck with the repair.

It will still go all the way down when fixed, but it will hold the truck on a hill. Mine wouldn’t really grab when I started.

Or maybe a junk yard…. Good luck with your project!

@@johnsworkshop3312 I made one. perfect fit and function. thanks

@@-jimmyjames awesome!!

You could probably get away without it, but if you’re like me you’ll probably want to make it 100% right. I hope you can get it out. Good luck!

@@johnsworkshop3312 You pegged me right 😀 I ended up drilling out the broken screw and tapping a new one. A big headache without taking the axle off. I never use the parking brake and probably wouldn't have bothered with them if I didn't have to replace the completely rusted off dust shields with 2 piece ones. In hindsight, I wished I had pulled the axles. The job is so much easier without them in the way. You can build the entire shield, mounting plate and parking brake setup on a bench and put it on as a unit.

@@jerseyjim9092 Glad you got it sorted out right. You'll feel better about driving it around knowing that there is nothing missing and it was put back together correctly. Another advantage of doing it yourself. Not sure if a professional shop would take the time to do that.

You need that retainer clip to hold the emergency brake shoe in place and you can remove the shoe without removing the clip. I learned that the hard way. You can hammer out one stud to gain access to drill out the hole for that retaining clip.

@@nico8587d Thanks, that's what I ended up doing. On both sides. I knew that cheap hf tap and die set I bought 20 years ago would come in handy someday. 😆. The design of these parking brakes leaves alot to be desired and since I've never used them I probably should've left them alone. But I had to take them off to get the new 2 piece Dorman dust shields on. These are another thing that drove me nuts. Had to keep bending them here and there to stop them from scraping the rotor. I don't think I would've had that issue with the one piece but that would've required pulling the axles which for various reasons if I had to do this job over I would. In the end it would saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Shortcuts rarely pay off.

Thanks

For sure. Can’t be too careful about safety!

Thanks for the tip on the Locktite!

It goes all the way down. But holds great on a hill.

I got lucky because this was my father in law’s truck and he didn’t drive much and kept it in the garage.

Thanks for your comment, and I’ll have to cut back on the thread locker!

That’s exactly what my problem on my 2000 silverado

Awesome - glad I could help!

I removed the drum and it turned out that what it needs is just an adjustment on the star wheel.

Look at 21:52 or so in the video. You have to wiggle the shoe around a bit but it will go on.

Good point - be sure not to breathe any of that dust!

Thanks for the tip!