I was lookin for a video with more technical info as thats how i tighten my bearings, but i just wanted to add a tip for those that didnt know: When removing the rotor, after you've taken out the outer bearing, thread that nut back onto the spindle, and slide the rotor off with some downwards pressure. Once or twice is usually enough for the inner bearing and seal to pop off intact. (The nut on the spindle catches the inner bearing as your sliding it off)

One of the best videos on wheel bearings. Nicely done. Thank you!

I normally dont leave comments on KZfaq, but I found your video extremely helpful! Thank you for taking the time to make/share this with others.

Needed a basic idea of how the rotors interact with my driving abilities and came away with the basics of the bearings too....This was appreciated.

Thanks! Just did my 2009 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L with Ford Motorcraft Rotors, Brake Pads, and Ford Genuine Wheel Bearings + Grease Seal. My Truck Had a 128,000+ miles on the old setup. Great Video! Helped out a lot.

Very welcome. Thanks for watching. :)

@dustfromdust Glad i was able to help. I really appreciate the compliments.

Thank you for mentioning the cleaning of new parts, I never would have thought of that. I would have assumed it is clean being new.

Thanks so much for the informative video. Videos like this are surprisingly all together to few and far between on the internet.

Good vid, I normally don't do my own brakes but I heard the Rangers were pretty easy so I decided to give it a go. I was able to follow your video with success.

Great video! I wish more videos were like this one. It was fast, straightforward, and to the point. Plus you're saving a lot of people a lot of money, and many of them (like me) simply cannot afford to have a mechanic do this. Thanks for uploading this video.

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful.

@w00tplayaw00t The rotor, the inner and outer wheel bearing, the grease cap, dust cap, cotter pin, and the grease, then the brake pads.

World's worst mechanic here.. with this video, replacement was a breeze.. THANKS!!

Great video, very helpful. My only suggestion would be to use a torque wrench when tightening the nut. They aren't that expensive and there are so many uses for them. Also, although this doesn't apply to your situation, some viewers may not be replacing their rotors, which means they would need to use the new bearing race (the extra part you had), and it may take a special tool to get the old one out.

Great video. Thank you for posting.

Thanks for spending your time to make the video!

Awesome, KZfaq can help turn anyone into a "mechanic". Save so much doing this from home!

Very welcome! Glad I could help.

Awesome video, really informative, and explained well.

Awesome video!!! Thank you for this! I'm about ready to do this to my 2.3L ranger! -Nigel

Good stuff Sparky and thanks for going to Oreillys ;-) one thing I did see is you can press in caliper before taking it off with a big c clamp

Great video straight to the point! Thanks a lot man!

Do you have any end play once the wheel is mounted? I did as other have said about tightening and backing off a bit. Rotor spins freely but once the wheel is mounted, it has a very tiny bit of play when moving it from the 12 and 6 position.

Thanks for the video. I replaced mine and now the ABS light comes on. I was told it might have something to do with with exciter ring. It did look different from the rotors that I replaced but they look exactly like yours. Any info or ideas?

@duketherooster1 Thanks! Glad you liked it :)

If your truck is 4x4 I reccomend using a small sludge hammer and a solid steel pipe to smash off the inner barring. This is only needed if your barring is fusion to your spindle from excessive heat

This is so far the best video I have found to replace my wheel bearings I have a 2000 and a 3.0 liter 2wd. I have the same problem of course, but this is the second time that I have had this problem in the past year. When I bought the truck it freshly had new ball joints and then as soon as I got it replaced the sway bar links. So in the past year it has had all three replaced is it possible for the old rotor to be drying it out and making it knock.

I have bled the brakes on my truck several times in the 13 years I have owned it. If you don't let air into the ABS module then there will be no problems. My ABS works like it did when it was new.

Thanks for the up load!

Is it a steady pulse like the ABS is getting engaged? or is it a pulse like a brake or rotor problem?

@DuBois994 Definitely will do! Thanks for the input!

@AntibodyYT Thanks! That means a lot, glad my vid was helpful :)

It's helpful and less messy to put the bearing and grease in a ziplock bag to work the grease through the bearing. I think a bearing packer is extravagant for a weekend project.

Did you struggle to take the nut off after the washer? First time servicing a hub rotor assembly, any advice?

hey thanks alot man, this was really helpful!

Very good video. Thank you for posting!

Hey nice video i have been looking all around online trying to find the best priced good fitted rotor for my 02 ranger 3.0 v6 xlt 2wd 4whl abs. They show picutres fitting my truck either basic rotor with out bearings and the rotors with bearings? Its getting confusing. So are there any diffrence in jus year.

thanks! you saved me some time for sure...

when installing the bolt on rotor. what are the proper torque specifications?

Do you know if the wheel bearing process is the same on a 2003 2wd 4.0L Ranger? Great vid, thanks for uploading!

@Lonnie139 Im actually still having a knocking problem with my ranger suspension. I think ive narrowed it down to being the socks now. Subscribe and ill do a shock replacement vid ASAP. Thanks a ton for watching.

Can you tell me specifically what parts you bought to replace the entire assembly? Thank you very much.

I've changed the rotors and bearings. It still makes that bad wheel bearing sound up front. Also changed out the upper control arms and lower ball joints. Any idea what else it could be? Maybe a a bad inner/ outer tie rod? Bad spindle maybe? Thanks.

@chrisg405 I dont have a bearing packer... This method works just fine. 20k miles since I've done this job and no problems so far.

@hubbleISS Just ran out of latex gloves and i was washing my mechanic gloves. I generally wear them. Thanks!

dude your a life saver thanks.......

@DuBois994 I think they dont make a 4x4 v8 because of rollover problems. Thats a lot of power and its top heavy. Most people wouldnt know how to control it. Ill prolly keep with ford, they have made a lot of improvements. We will see. Ill keep everyone updated on what im thinking about getting.

It is all very simple and straight forward. The hardest part is probably removing the brake caliper bracket. Those bolts can get pretty rusty.

Great video!!!

What kind of grease did you use? Do the new bearings come with the rotor? If not about how much do they cost? Great video. I have a 2000 ranger. Tomorrow I'm replacing front shocks and right upper/lower ball joints.

what will happen if the inner bearing fits on fine, but the outer bearing is too loose and doesn't make contact with it's racer? will the heat expand the outer bearings to fit inside the racer or will it stay loose and start wobbling?

If you don't have a bearing packer I just put grease in a zip lock or similar lactic bag, toss bearing in a squish grease back and forth trying to force it into the bearing. Done more than I can remember and yet seen one fail using a plastic bag. Hope this helps someone out.

Try unplugging the battery for a bit and plugging it back in. If the light comes back on then replace the sensor. I plan on doing of vid of this soon.

Awesome, please post back and let me know how it goes :)

@salohcinekalb Sounds like the inner bearing is too small or its the wrong side rotor. You definitely need the right size bearing without a doubt.

Thanks for the tip, that's what I do now.

@wangbungal That piece is just to store the bearing in I believe.

Dumb question but... How many brake pads are there per tire? Thanks!

Hi I need HELP I changed my rotor and pads just as you did in the video and I took it out for a test drive and the brake pedal pulsed as I press on them but it only happens when when going slow. I tried a hard brake and had no pulse in brake pedal I bleeded the brake system twice and didn't feel a difference then I took out the abs sensor to clean them then I felt less pulse on pedal any suggestions on what can be the problem

No prob. Glad I could help.

@DuBois994 For my next vehicle im looking into an AWD 4.6 liter explorer or the AWD 6.0 liter trailblazer SS

The park brake functions off of a cable. The rear brakes from the pedal run off of hydraulic pressure. The friction material on the rear shoes could be completely gone (losing braking power) and its just metal on metal holding the park brake.

Awesome video, I have a question as I can't seem to find the answer. I did follow your video about two years ago when I did my wheel bearings. I am noticing a humming noise on the driver side and it seems to go away when I turn right, but it's not constant at high speeds, more between the lower to 40mph speed. I grabbed the wheel from the 12 and 6 oclock position and was able to move the wheel maybe 1mm... would this be the bearings again or would it be the hub assembly? I can't find a video indicating which is which as far as trouble shooting... Obviously bearings for our trucks are not real hard, but I'd rather not guess... Could it be that perhaps one needs to tighten the nut on the wheel bearings or is this something that normally doesn't come loose once you put the cotter pin in? Thanks, -Nigel

now that's new never saw anyone use the bearing race to beat the grease seal in before

@BDORR93 New rotors come with the race already pressed in. Not explicitly shown in the video, but it's in there.

Might want to look into changing your proportioning valve. I believe rangers have them but I am not sure.

That “extra piece” is the bearing race. If you thought your bearing was failing, you should have pressed in the new race. If the old one is pitted, your new bearing will fail soon.

i was wondering if this was the same as a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 flex fuel also 2wd?

@jreichert3 Yes it should be the same. Only the 4x4's are different.

you said to remove the inside wheel bearing to simply hammer it out?? im not sure if thats safe?? (worried) cuz i need to turn my rotors (brake replacement) and want to make sure im doing it the right way

I realize this is a older video and not to active lately but I was wondering with my rwd 02 Ford Ranger xlt 3.0 v6 im having a hard time figuring out the proper roter dimension, it’s either 10.28in or 11.28in. I was wondering if I have to use a certain one or if they’re interchangeable?

Part of the reason I do everything I can afford on my own.

Use an old brake pad to push both caliper cylinders in together to save time and to not go past flush too.

Thanks for the video!! It is very helpfull!

Very welcome!

Thanks a lot, glad the vid helped :)

great video, thanks!

Great video, just please put a note about supporting the car on jackstands? 1:02, And put your head completely under the lower a arm, then bump floor jack, oh wait"

Wheel bearing finale torque setting is 17-inch lbs while rotating the disc. It requires very little torque.

do you know if this is the same for a 2007 2.3 ranger?

I just did mine and I did what you did but now I have steering wheel shaking what is it

Good video,TY for posting it,good job.^5s

Glad i could help. :)

Pulse as the abs is getting engaged

Glad it helped :)

thanks it's very helpfull

What kind of grease did you use??

Good tip. Thanks.

after taking the outter bearing out, thread the nut back on and slide the rotaroff, this will knock out the inner bearing

Just wheel bearing grease. It can be bought at any car parts store.

What do you do when the bolt hold caliber bracket is stuck I start to strip it it's not bad I stopped at 3ed try I don't see way I could cut it off but I will need a new bracket low on funds after buying rotters brakes and bearings seals I'm just stuck not knowing what to do.

The bearings are completely sealed from any break dust. There is no way for there to be a contamination. Also double check that your rear brakes are functioning properly. Mine did the same thing right before they gave out. That was a mess.

@DuBois994 I need a V8 to pull the toys around with and the v8 is either awd or 2wd. Still thinkin about everything. Dont like the idea of having to run premium with the ss, they have a ton of drivetrain probs too. Ill prolly end up with a explorer... Maybe ill throw a supercharger on it :)

what size is that nut u took off to take the rotor off

I wonder if the rotor can be purchased with the race bearings and seala already installed.

Have you ever used a torque wrench to tighten the 'caliper to bracket' bolts? Locktite/Boltlocker? I am half way through with the passenger side. Tomorrow, the driver side.

aren't you supposed to use the race? you referred to it as a spare part in this cause I just got bearings for mine and they came with races, are they not supposed to be used? I feel like not using it could screw it up cause why would it come with the race if your not supposed to use it? just curious before I do mine

Very welcome :)

Good job, thanks