Out of all the videos I watched on this repair, you are the only one who said leave the top pin in and slide it out. Thanks. That was a great time saver. And one thing less to deal with.

Hey. Little tip for ya. Whenever you use the clamp to push the pistons back in. Turn your clamp around so the part you screw in is outside the caliper. Then you can put it center and push both pistons in evenly.

10 year old video helped me out today. Didn't even think to flip that caliper up and slide it out. Been putting my brake job off on my truck because of this. Only video I've found that has shown this. Thanks!

Man I'm glad i watched this was curious how to get at that top bolt

Just put my Rear brakes on this afternoon. Your tip on that top bolt was a life saver. Not knowing that would have been a pain. The thing I ran into, was having to grind off the channel on the pad were it slides.. After that, it went great. Thanks again.

Was having difficulty with the rear pin this morning, thanks for the advice

Thanks for the good job on the video. I was "that" guy who couldn't figure out how to get the second slide bolt out so I put off changing the rears. Your video showed me how to get around that and then it was easy.

This is an excellent tutorial! I had never done the rear brakes on my 2500hd. I bought it used. I only looked at this to see how to remove the rotor. But, I wish I had watched this before I took it apart, as you really had some great tips, especially about the top pivot bolt. Keep making these tutorials, it is REALLY appreciated!

@TheDurnans Thanks for the comment, Yes sometimes I wonder why GM used those Torx-Bolts in there, In the past I have also replaced the torx bolts with standard hex bolts, and have seen a lot of other people do the same. Glad you got it fixed!

Sir ur video saved me! I could not for the life of me figure this out. I attempted to take the caliper bracket and caliper off but the bolts was so tight I couldn’t. Didn’t know what to do till I watched ur video. Thank u sir!!

Thanks for the great video. I did the rear pads on my 07' 2500 HD for the very first time this afternoon.

Awesome video - just about to do this on my 2002 HD2500. Now I have the confidence to get it done right! Thank you for very clear instructions and awesome video work (speeding up the boring parts was a definite plus :-) )

Great tip on taking off caliper ... very informative unlike other video's that are just plugging their company and show nothing.

Glad you made this video! Helped me on my 03 Burban! Very clear and precise, not like those garage guys. Thanks!

Excellent video. Thanks for the refresher. I am fixing to change my pads and rotors now. I knew how, but this vid was a great refresher. Thanks again

Thanks for the very informative video. You covered some good tips and tricks.

Excellent video, good to know about the upper slider bolt staying in place. On my '99 2500, they are all 18mm, no T55 bolts on it, that must have come later.

Excellent Video. Thanks for the Tip on the top bolt. (Just did my rear brakes.) On 2004 they change the Caliper bolts (from Torx) to a 16mm bolt.

This is the best video ive found on this thankyou! no nonsense and straight to the point!

Thanks for the video, mines a 2004 Chev 2500HD. I pulled the caliper with the guide pins, and didn't know your trick. I also couldn't get the rotor off. I'm going to pound on it more in the morning when I can see and maybe put a little PB on it tonight. I really liked the video because I wondered if I needed to take the hub off to get the rotor off and that would have been a big nitemare, so thanks, again...very, very grateful for the video. Dan

Thank you for the video. You explained this very well. From Iowa

excellent video but I did have one problem not shown. I'm an old contractor so the problem threw me for a while, After 130k miles my pads were still as good as new but the stopping power was notably deteriorating so I decided to upgrade. Here in the foothills every job I tow my dump trailer to is on a hill. With no slop between the pads & rotor when I tried lifting the caliper there was a metallic clunk, I couldnt see what was hitting & thanks to this video I knew not to get too rough with it. After many attempts to get more space between the pads & rotor I decided to remove the 2 main bolts which worked out fine, the whole thing came off & pads fell out which showed me the problem. The rivet on the back of the pads was hitting the edge of the hollow piston, even being gentle caused a small pip on the piston but I was able to file it flat before the new installation.

@waste9000 Thanks for the question, Your vehicle has "Lug Nuts" which need to be loosened before taking the wheel off. Once the lugnuts are loosened, jack up and support the vehicle, once it's up in the air, continue removing the lug nuts. Once those are off, the wheel and tire assembly will come off. Good Luck!

Notice how the caliper bracket moves when he removes the pads? He may have already loosened them before filming. Those bolts are indeed very tight and tough to break.

About to do mine and I needed to know what torx bit I needed. I then saw the awesome trick for the top bolt. Noice!!! Here in 2021

Nice video. Very thorough. Thanks for making it.

@Tungsten23 There are many options from the factory when a vehicle is originally purchased, I believe one of them is disc or drum rear brakes, yours must have left the factory with rear drum. Unfortunately there is no way to convert it over to rear disc. We do have a video on youtube of replacing some rear drum brakes (although on a Ford, they are all similar). Thanks for the comment

Thanks for a great video. You take your time and explain things very well. Great job.

Great video dude!!! Covered all I needed to know.

Thanks for the video! Good job.

Awesome video the best by far I have seen for this job!!Great explanation and tricks!!Thanks again Cheers!!!

Very detailed explanation very good explanation love it

Thanks, appreciate comprehensive video, liked your trick with the Pin Bolt removal behind leaf spring...

Good show. Need to add some grease on them caliper sliding bolt and the pads. BTW the T55 is PITA you can replace it with 18mm bolt.

Just the answer I was looking for. Thanks

Great explanation , enjoy watching this video

Thanks for the show, on thing, might waste the fluid in the caliper when pushing back, open the bleed vs pushing the heated fluid back up through the abs module, and no torque wrench? Thanks again for the refresher and wrench sizes.

Thanks for the video, reason I came on here was because I didn't how to remove top caliper bolt, little did I know I don't have to!!

@APDTY I am going to have to do this also. I'd like to see how it's done. I'm sure going to try to gitter done without removing the axles.

@Tungsten23 There are only 2 minor advantages that I can think of when it comes to Drum Brakes,, 1) The brake shoes last longer than rear brake pads. 2) Parts are usually less expensive for Drum Brakes. Other than that, I personally prefer disc brakes to drums. Thanks!

It's jacked up underneath the rear end where the leaf spring mounts. The jackstand, although you can't see it, would be positioned right next to the jack head.

That rubber boot needs to go up over the lip on that T-55 bolt/pin. I put new boots on when I did mine and the boot didn't go over the lip on the pin as easily as yours did, but you used the old boots. There are aftermarket hex head bolts that will replace those T-55's. Mine were corroded and I had to take my whole caliper off and put it in a vise to get my bolts out. I twisted a 3/8 inch drive impact socket getting those bolts out. You made this look easier than what I experienced.

Awesome thank you, I had the jist of it, just wanted o see what was behind that rotor after I knocked it out. great tip on the top slider, I was on of them pissing around with that bolt once on a ford, it's a real bastard! that tip will be extremely useful. thanks again, great video!

@azzman71 at about 8:45 in the video you can see the setup we used to push the caliper pistons back in, we did use a c-clamp and old brake pad.

This is an excellent video to watch before taking on this job. The only thing he does not mention is that the caliper bracket bolts can be tough. You need to use an impact socket and a long breaker bar. Otherwise a very good video.

Thank You...Informative video.

Great video man!

A few things, after I take the roter off I take the bracket off it makes cleaning a lot easier and the pads fall right in and the cilps,the other thing I noticed why didn't you inspect the pins and Lube them, when I get calipers with the T50 torque's I replace them with new ones that have 18 mm bolt heads, because if the last guy that worked on it might have gorillaed them tight or replaced one wheel, they could strip or even worse break the torques. When I reassemble I always use. Never seese on the threads on bolts and pins you don't need much I use it on the back side of the rim too so the wheel will never freeze to the hub. I've done my 3500 Silverado this way from New it has 180000 hard miles and still going strong .

Great video

great video, thank you

Great video, Thanks!

this was a great video. Everything covered. Thanks!

this guy you know what doing. Explain minimum details how easy are

Great video! thank you

Thank you very much! nice video

Thanks for your help..

Cool video

good video... Do you have any videos for how to replace the LCA on a 2004 2500hd silverado 4X4?? thanks

Thanks for sharing.

@nacho210210 Hi David, Honestly it is not on the books at this time, but the parking brake shoes are not too difficult. The proper procedure is to remove the rear axle shafts to get the parking brake shoes off. But it is possible with a little prying. (You can pry the parking brake shoe straight up over the axle)

Grasias you vídeo help Grasias

Nice video, thanks

Thanks Man!

consider pinching the break line before pushing the piston back into the caliper and use the bleeder valve to release the fluid. Doing so prevents the chance of pushing contaminated fluid into the master which could damage the ABS.

One more thing. Those caliper bolts took a 4 foot breaker bar for me to remove. Did you guys edit that out? Just wondered....it'd be good to mention those babies are loctited on really, really well.

@ADPTY, thank you for the reply. idk man if i knew it was a factory thing i would've opted to order it. But mine is a LT trim and from what i've seen they put 2 drums in the rear of tahoes, saburbans and the yukons. 1 more question bro, is there any true advantage to drums?

I see you can remove caliper from toques plate with bottom bolt removal but can it be done with the top bolt removed as my bottom bolt has rust deposit and 3 of the torques bit teeth are basically gone

Is it the same proses for the front brakes

Thank you

oh btw, should i grind those edge of the pads, to make little loose?

I have an '02 2500 (not HD). Half a can of PB Blaster, an impact and two broken T-55 tips. Those "easy" bolts haven't budged. Next....

@fallguy100000 After the 4 footer to break the bolts free, I still used a 16" bar about 3/4 of the way out. I've never experienced any bolt removal like it. All of them were this way...it was a yellow colored adhesive they used @#$#@!!!!

Love the way you clean the only clean part and put all that dirty crap back on.

Please let your customers be aware; Brake fluid has an affinity for water, in the air (humidity). The "phenolic" pistons can & will swell up if or when they have absorbed water ( which can be in the brake fluid from humidity in the air. This WILL happen in motor homes which do not drive very much, but just sit still most of their life, so the brake fluid does not heat up enough to drive the water out of the brake fluid.) , and the only real cure to prevent the brake pistons from sticking is to replace them with new metal pistons. I had to buy all new calipers for all 4 wheels. I know all this because I have gone through problems with the brakes sticking several times and heating the brake system to the point there were no brakes. It took the brake manufactures a LONG time to find out the cause of the sticking brakes. Nothing like driving on a crowded limited access expressway with NO BRAKES.

Beware of Amazon "Confirmed Fit" as it does not ask enough model specifics and says it fits your truck when it might not. First mistake might have been mine as I may have selected the wrong engine code (1 or 2) Both codes are for Duramax diesel. The next two attempts were the ACDelco 18A928AC and the Raybestos Professional 580000R. Both of these were 3.5 inches deep instead of 3.63ish and wouldn't clear the E-brake. Frustrated, I went to get official GM part number and discovered that 15712801 is left and right, but 15712803 is left only. If Amazon had better specs like NAPA and O'reillys I could have avoided some of this hassle by selecting the 3.63 deep unit. I almost went to O'reillys and paid $80 but I discovered that Amazon had the same ACDelco 18A926A for $40 and I could get it the next day. It arrived as promised and fit. Anyone know if the G80 locking rear dif option might be causing my trouble?

@APDTY you can convert it to disc. its a 550$ kit. Cant remember the name of the manufacturer. I looked into it for mine.

great video.. tell Interstate Batteries ya want a new hat...

if the rotor/drum combo are stuck on, disengage the parking brake, so the brake shoes inside the rotor had can back off and you can just slip it off... of course, your front wheels are chocked also there's a star-wheel adjuster access hole in the backing plate just above the axle... usually coverd by a rubber plug a very short handle flathead screwdriver can be inserted there and you can back off those brake shoes from the drum/rotor combo other than that, & not showing that you re-lubed those sliding caliper pins... not a bad video!

I wish you would have mentioned when and why we would need to replace the rotors not the rotors but the caliper when and why would we need to replace a caliper and how much would this cost if you had to have somebody do it without replacing the caliper and with replacing the caliper what would the bill be both ways approximately I know everybody charges in different hourly rate but what would it cost approximately

great

I couldn't really see how you jack-up the rear to get the wheel off; could you show how and where you placed the floor jack and jack stand? Thanks

Hey man, you still around? I got a 2015 chevy 3500 that looks the same as your setup. I cant get the damn rotor off to save my life. Is it a floating rotor like yours is? Do i just need to grow a pair and hit it with a bigger hammer? PLEASE HELP! Also thank you for the tip on the top slide bolt for the caliper. I just took the whole unit off. One more thing, sometimes its easier to pry on the break pad while its still all assembled to push the two pistons in. Its much easier and i've never damaged my rotor in the process.

Anybody got a link for a pair of HEX-BOLTS for the rear calipers on a 2010 GMC 2500 4x4 ???

Great video!. 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500 2x4.. 1.6 hrs labor? is that correct. that's what my mechanic charged me

is this the same for a 02,1500

I tried and tried to do it like you did but the top pin I could NOT GET IT IN!!

I take this video works for a 2011 hd, right?

Is this the same for 2005 GMC 2500HD?

1 question. why does my 09 silverado only have drums in the back and discs up front? got anything for rear discs?

The caliper bolts are not Torx but are Star headed T55 is correct size but wrong nomenclature. I use hi temp anti seize for sliders and caliper piston top wear services. Do not use low temp oils or greased. Never-seize is high temp rated.

wouldn't hurt to put some brake/caliper grease on those pin bolts before re-inserting.

I wish you would have slowed down the process of putting the pads and I've never seen it done and I don't know if it's any particular way of doing it right and wrong way

No grease?

What size is that t 55! ???

What size is that t 55 ????

Just in case your wondering that “greasy, oily substance” on the rotor from the factory is called cosmoline

Why torx on rear but not on front? Pain in the ass

Don't force it in there just hit it with a hammer. LOL

I heard the sound of a calibrated elbow @ 8:36. Was a good video, but please inform people of the extras that you didnt do.. like checking the guide pins for corrosion, re-greasing them, because you got them out already and should really put some blue or purple loctite on caliper brackets. go ahead and spend the extra 10 bucks and get some new pad clips if the ones you have are corroded. GM's pad clips suck and have for years. Great source for early wear that shows itself as false bad guide pin

What is that noise in the background