Please don't ever take these videos down. Very good information.

I did this engine swap 3 years ago and there were no videos online at that time regarding how to do this that I could find. It was quite the experience. I sourced a 2011 fusion engine with 31,000 miles on it for $600, and now the swap has 55,000 miles on it, and I couldn't be happier that I saved this car(I had only had it for 3 months when the engine failed). It has been fun watching these videos and taking a trip down memory lane on this project. Regarding the timing, I did make a bracket that bolted the flywheel side of the crankshaft to the case, which allowed me to tighten things down without having things move at all. Great videos, and I'm sure this will really help people wrap their heads around this project before they get started, or get through some of the tough spots.

here's our follow-up, we swapped the 2.5 crank pulley for a new 2.3 pulley, turns out whom ever did the engine swap missed that detail. the pulley was off by one tooth & the slots of the cams were off by 10 degrees. in addition, to the timing codes we had two O2 sensor codes. we performed the timing exercise exactly as you did & now we are 100% times! we also replaced the serpentine belt & two O2 sensors. the engine is now as smooth as silk & no codes! when that vvt kicks in it's an amazing feeling, it's like turbo power without the turbo lag. we owe it all to you, you are an amazing diy'er my cousin just subscribed to your channel, we look forward to many more videos form you. keep up the great work, I will post mileage info from time to time. thanks a mil.

Hands down, the best detailed description that I have ever seen on KZfaq. Excellent work and I hope you know how much I appreciate your guidance

Bloody fantastic video mate! I love how you took your time to explain things thoroughly and clearly! Thanks

Everything is worth Watching! Good Job!!

I think you got it.Never give up

By far...one of the best online...guide

Thank you for this! Didn't know pulley wasn't keyed and pulled balancer off for a welder to repair bottom serpentine belt tensioner hole (broke off immediately when breaking bolt loose). Thought I was probably completely hosed when I saw no key slot in crank. Was able to re-time by pulling the starter and back up and running after waiting for washer to arrive!

By the time you get this figured out you'll be an expert on Mazda's 2.5 engines. You really are a patient man. Very complete and well explained process. But I have to admit, I skipped ahead a little. :)

This timing is the easiest to do . As long as you have the tools it's a breeze but great detail video .

Sorry to be the guy with all the comments! But I found that on my car at least (2007 Mazda5), the driveshaft didn't need to come out, just remove the 3 bolts and pry it a bit, while installing the crank pin. Was very tight this way but I figured better than removing it. Maybe you've already figured this out since this is from 2017 but just figured I would add what happened on my vehicle

First, thanks for great videos and explanation. Excellent !!! So you have not replaced the second friction washer, is is ok not to do it? I need te reseal my timing cover - ofcourse on a car, and I'm afraid i won't be able to take off oil pump sprocket - I saw many people have problems taking it off, its damn tight. Its M6 2.5L.

you can also use a CHAIN WRENCH with a piece of an old serpentine belt to hold the crank pulley

He has the BEST VIDEOS, I've seen, on how, to do the timing on a motor. I have never done the timing on a motor before. But, after I have seen, your videos, I now know I CAN DO THE TIMING. THANK YOU SOO MUCH, for your videos, it will help me save so much money. BECAUSE, of his videos, it gives me the CONFEDENCE'S KNOWING THAT I CAN DO IT😉

if you are ever in NYC give me a heads-up, would love to buy you a drink!

thanks for that info, how can I get my hands on the service manual for my model? is it readily available at the local dealer? in u r video u talked about changing the timing wheel on the intake cam to match u r car's computer. that wheel is a press-on fit. as a dyi'er how did u make the switch? what is involved in removing the cam, what do we need to pay attention to here? I imagine the timing chain position is critical here. do u have any videos of this process? thanks again.

Good tips in this video... I can see how loosening the crank bolt after rotating to stop and making sure that the crank didn't move back, is a step that can be overlooked! Diamond washer is on the inside & outside of the crank pulley? Is there another between the chain sprocket & crankshaft?

I have ttree other follow-up questions regarding timing. first, when the cams r aligned with the timing plate, how can I adjust the position of the timing wheel on the intake cam if needed? second, when u said that at tdc the cam lobes of the cams r facing each other, u mean that the pointed ends of the lobes of cylinder one on both the intake & exhaust cams r facing each other, correct? third, how did u identify the ninth tooth on u r crankshaft pulley. I noticed it had a white mark, did u put that mark or was I manufactured like that? I don't believe our crankshaft has any markings on the teeth. thanks again.

I just subscribed! Great series of videos, u r better than most professors! I admire your dedication to this swap. I have a situation, which u may b able to shed some light on. I recently bought an ‘07 Mazda 6 & just found out that the engine was swapped to a 2.5. The problems with my engine r long crank time to start up, rough idle, sluggish in stop n go driving but smooth & powerful at highway speeds. & off course check engine light. my question r; I am not sure if the new engine is from a ford fusion or a Mazda 6, I think it's a Mazda 2.5 cause it uses those annoying paper oil filters & I think no 2.5 fusion comes with this type of oil filter, correct? second, there is a factory sticker on the side of the valve cover with I presume the serial number & the number 2.5 along with some other numbers. do u know how to decipher this sticker to I.d. this engine? the dealers r not helpful on this one. third, r all the parts u switched from u r donor to the donee engine the same for the 6 as well as the 3? fourth, did u reprogram or change the original 2.3 computer in the car to work with the new 2.5 engine? I did not see any evidence of u touching the original computer in any of u r videos & by the way, I have watched each of u r videos approx ten times to make sure I didn't miss anything. thank you in advance for u r response to my questions.

the latest update is we replaced crankshaft & camshaft sensors with new 2010 sensors but they made no difference. perhaps we should have tried replacing them with the 2007 2.3 sensors?

Thank u so much I did that in 30 min

thanks for this info. we will also replace the serpentine belt when swapping the pulleys. which belt did you use on your 2.5 engine? the part numbers for the 2.3 & 2.5 belts are different, indicating that the belts are different. the codes we are having right now are P0011, P0016, P0031 & P0037. the first & second codes are timing related. the third & fourth codes are O2 sensor related. did you have the same codes when your timing was off?

I hear it's important to change the diamond washer to the harmonic balancer, I got a new bolt and washer, but I noticed there's another washer behind the chain sprocket, do I have to change that one as well? I can't find that specific washer, I can only find the bolt with diamond washer, is it the same as the one behind the sprocket?

Cool . looks like it should run

thank you for u r detailed response. today we replaced the vct solenoid/actuator but there's no difference. the codes I get r O2 sensor & intake cam advance timing. I am thinking the issue could b the crankshaft pulley because of the long start up time. I know there r small differences between the Ford & Mazda 2.5 pulleys but do u know if there r any differences between the Mazda 2.3 & 2.5 pulleys? I hope we can continue our thread until I fix this problem. thanks again for u r insight.

question for you, when you swapped the 2.5 pulley for the 2.3 pulley did the 2.3 pulley fit right on the crankshaft without a problem? did you need to make any modifications to switch the two pulleys? thanks.

What's the problem did you notice why you suspect the timing is off? Does it make loud sound or perhaps consumes much gasoline than normal?

On the ford fusion you can access the fly wheel from the underside of the engine coming from the transmission side of the bellhousing. Eliminates the removal of the starter. Just a tip.

Gracias por tu buena información thanks

Hi Baxrok2, is it your mazda automatic, that 2.5 you get it from what car and it was autmatic, it was a direct fit for harnesses and transmission??? By the way im watching you videos anytime i have a chance so little by little there i go!!! Thanks in advance...

I watched your other series today inside your garage giving the full lesson with the engine out of the car, I mentioned you did not show cam lobe angles at TDC Compression stroke but you did here, thank you. The crank pulley bolt is fat and should be able to be reused but most of the time when a bolt has a Torque To Yield final tightening of some number of degrees, 90 degrees in your case, these TTY bolts should be replaced. Since these engines are friction fit as you call it, I would also use locktite on this bolt as a backup measure. For your future viewers to be sure that the crank pulley does not move, it is very important as the crank position reluctor wheel is attached directly to the back of the pulley and it must not move for ignition timing purposes and time correlation between the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor for whatever computer timing purposes. A minor deviation will also translate into power and fuel economy to drive the importance home to the DIYers who don't have special tools or feel perfection is of no great importance.

okay thanks i was i little suprised to find out mazda ford use the same engine.

Thank for all this information, going through your videos now, watched the warning one :). I've started on my swap, any chance you could share the dimension of the peg? I have a small machine shop and it will be easiest for me to turn one on the lathe. I'm looking for the peg diameter and length, Including the threads but not the hex head. Thanks

Sorry if this is a dumb question but did you have to remove the oil?

I have a quick question, in what position does the sprocket on the exhaust camshaft go? (Not the vvt sprocket)Theirs no mark or indication as to how to install it! Thank you.

hi there sir if my motor is still in time and i wont to put a new timing chain and i put it on tdc and lock the cam it sued work i maybe ? thank you for the info

I got the piston top dead center loosened that bolt then took a cloth around the shaft and and vice grips not all that tight and nudged the counterweight back into the locking pin.

is it the same engine as the ford company build in the ford focus

So you have to have the pulley on in order to set your cams. In your other video I seen you use a wrench on your cams,?

hi im from the phil.. i need help.for parts... my car is 2.0 2004 mazda 3 at . its the cv axle on the right side that i need.. the housing the holds the tri bearing is worn out, where did you buy the parts for your mazda? here in the phil its a bit more expensive and its hard to get one espacially the right cv axle

I have another video titled: Problems, Problems where I talk about it. It would start but barely run. If you stepped on the gas it would just die, so no power at all. Intake manifold vacuum was 9.

Just put up number and then at the bottom put the spot to 6 o’clock but something in the hole so it won’t move and the crank sensor push it down put everything back together turn key off and on so gas can get up there now start the car👍💵

Hi I had a question , I have a 2004 Mazda 3 2.3 hatchback and I want to install a 2008 Mazda 2 2.3 hatchback engine long block , my coils connection don’t fit my old harness so I installed the old ones , my crank sensor & camshaft sensor was different and swapped it with over , is there anything eles I would need to swap over???

Hey how long is the crank timing bolt ?? The one that goes in the plug hole I know it 10 mm x 1.5 threads I just need the length

After removing the Crankshaft pulley bolt how did you get it off ?

Hi sir I have been watched all of your four videos about details for this process when engine was out of car but honestly i cant understand after you put camshaft plate and timing peg then rotating the crankshaft by bolt to make it timing with camshaft gears then when you loosn the crankshaft pulley bolt to putting crankshaft pulley to be timed with all others how you guarantee the crankshaft not slipped counter-clockwise when you did it although engine still on the car ? How you prevent crankshaft to move a little ? I hope my question is clear ?

Ok now my pulley is on with the six mm bolt in and my mark is way off at 11 0'clock not even close to the sensor . were are you counting 9 teeth from?

Did this swap with a ton of your help got CEL ....idle drifting from 1 to 2.5 rpm initially AutoZone code said throttle body. Dropped in new one now drift is less (.5 to 1 rpm) code for MAF.....any ideas? Car works great thank you for your help this is only problem that remains!

Thanks. Is this used for mazda 3 2009 z6 1.6?

Hi Baxrok2, hwre i am again forgot to ask, from what car you get the engine, what model and year? Then again in advance!!!👨‍🔧

Hey! I was talking with Thomas EXOVCDS and he mentioned you might be the better person to talk about Mazda 3's. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind answering some questions for me?

I having the same problem any tips in not to have a harder time

My 2010 Escape 2.5 L idler pulley mount just broke off spontaneously on me (50K miles!) and now I have to do all this to get a new pulley and belt back on. Worse, I'm in Mexico where everything has to be ordered 10 days in advance. I watched all your videos, and now feel I can do it in my sleep (famous last words! ), thanks mucho for putting these out. Ford specs crank bolt removal with an an Air Impact. Do I really need it? Or will a 1/2" breaker w/cheater suffice ?

Thanks, been wrenching for many years, dropped the bottom pully on an engine swap to pull out the top, all I can say who is built this crap? :-)

Drive video soon? haha. I am interested in doing this swap in my 2007 mz3 hatchback.

at min 13:40 you show the tool but then don't show you screwing it in. I have been trying to put that tool in but the steering is in the way any solutions ?

I have a Mazda 3 2006 that had an engine swap, just went through your procedure but noticed at the end that my crankshaft pulley is different than yours. With everything timed its at the 5th tooth and has multiple gaps in it vs the one I see on your pulley. Car was idling fine but very low on power, new pulley comes tomorrow so I am hoping it resolves my P0016 code. Not sure what this pulley is off of though.

I did/am doing this with my 2007 Mazda, and at the moment it's in and it starts. The problem is that the ECU is saying the timing is advanced by %10 and it runs bad. The crank was put on after TDC was found. Could anyone help with ideas on how to fix?

Great video, you should be a teacher. I'm trying to understand, how is chain sprocket attached to crank. You've been able to turn the crack, while cams have been in fixed position, so chain sprocket inside the engine have to be loose.

2001 ranger 2.3 Would a 2.5 be a possible replacement?

So I don't understand, did you completely get this done wrong?

could you please tell if the timing tool is available on Amazon.com

why is that the "..crankshaft now can spin independently of the camshafts.."?..(at 19:15)

the revealing answer to u r question is, no, we did not just swap the engine. actually we just bought the car from a guy who goes to the auto the auction. we now realize that the engine was swapped after we took off the engine cover to do some servicing, isn't that rich! off course he seller claims no knowledge of the engine swap, so now we r "forced DIY‘s." therefore, we greatly appreciate all of u r videos & answers to our questions. what source did u use to get the torque specs for the parts u switched, would the torque spec b the same for u r Mazda 3 & my 6? specifically, r the torque specs of the pulley bolt the same for my 6 & u r 3? r the torque specs r dependant on the yr of the donee engine as opposed to the yr of the car?

Having to do this now too. Anyway I can email you?

Is a 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 engine different from a 2006 Mazda 3 2.3?

the latest discovery is we found out that the crankshaft pulley is from the 2.5 engine, they never swapped the pulley from the original 2.3 engine! And the plot thickens.....stay tuned for more discoveries on this engine swap. in two weeks I plan to get a KZfaq channel and post a video of our repairs on the swap. we will dedicate the video to u so check u r comments I will give u a heads-up when it's posted. we would appreciate all of u r feedback & encouragement.

Hey! I worked on this exact swap little by little for the past two weeks. It was so successful for me and I'm very fortunate everything went well. I stumbled across these videos of yours the day before I finished my swap. Here's a video of my cranking up my engine when it finished. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iJehos6ZkpjHf5s.html

I believe it's fair to say the mechanic owes you some retribution sir.

Does this also work for the mazdaspeed 3?

the question that should be asked is WHY did Mazda not KEY the PULLEY/CRANK snout and mark the cams and cylinder head like they and every other manufacturer has for YEARS...VVT or not - STUPID

after setting all the timing ,engine unable to run ,but only keep cranking