I wish I could re-like this 1000 times. I'm just starting a Miata engine swap and was 80% sure about the timing but it had this bug-a-boo thing to it. Now, after watching all 4 of these videos, I know exactly how it works, how to do it and how to fix it if things go off...which is more important than how to do it to begin with. THANKS!

Their is no need to watch anything else from anyone else. This is very done and very very appreciated.

Your video (#1-4)is the clearest explanation and most thorough. It gives confidence to those who will pursue the task. Thanks from South East Asia !

I am doing a 2.0L '97 Mazda 626, and I was lost for a few weeks until I found you.

Thank you for the videos! I love how detailed you are. For us DIYers that are learning about cars while we do this, the step by step process is helpful.

Im doing a a 2.5l swap into a 2002 ford ranger with the 2.3l. You done a fantastic job on explaining the timing procedures in your videos. You Made everything very clear for anyone wanting to do the timing on these engines. I was confused on the process until I watched these videos and have watched them several times over. Thank you very much for making these for the community!!!

Following your instructions I was able to rebuild and reassemble my 2.3 ecoboost correctly and I’m very thankful with you. Blessings 👏🏻

This is a very instructional, and detailed in depth video series guys. Very well done, and explained. Just like in a good automotive school shop/classroom.

If I had this engine and a need to time it I would have watched the entire 27 minutes. I'm sure anyone who has this job ahead of them will be an expert after watching your videos. As it is, I did watch a fair amount and I can tell the process has been very well explained. Nice job.

Awesome video!! Well explained!! The best best video I have watched so far , for this type of engines!!

I want to thank you for this 4 part series. My 2016 Ford Fusion with the 2.5 jumped time and died at a stop sign. Thanks to this video series I completely understood what I was doing when I replaced the components using the All Data DIY manual. As it turns out, it jumped time because it was missing a friction washer between the crankshaft and the sprocket. With the M6 bolt in the pulley hole the cams lined up but the engine was still another 10-15 degrees from hitting the TDC peg. I’m surprised that the engine didn’t blow up. One tip I have is to definitely use the flats on the camshaft that look like a bolt to keep it from rotating while torquing the gears down.

I'm about to do a 2.3 to 2.5 conversion in my 2004 Mazda 3. This was a great help. Thanks!

For anyone trying to time a speed or cx7 DISI MZR Turbo engine. They have a higher tooth counter crank balancer with a higher resolution engine mapping. You need to start from the flat spot on the top of the of the balancer, and count 20 teeth count clockwise and line the CKP Sensor line up with the 20th tooth COUNTER clock wise from the flat spot at top right (approx 1 oclock position of the balancer).

Incredible stuff! Your attention to detail is so reassuring. Thankyou thankyou thankyou. Will be trying it out soon.

Thank you so much for putting the time in to make such detailed videos! You saved my engine. I used your videos to with my 2007 Focus (2.0 L Duratec).

Great Information great teacher love the step by Step !! Kudos for you

Thank you so much! I am in the process of doing a 2006 Miata 2.0 due to an oil leak on the timing cover. This will be super helpful on ensuring that no mistakes are done when putting it back. The challenge for me is that the engine is still in the car so, I will apply your personal experience and hope for the best. BTW your videos are very well done.

Great video, love the way you explain with detail. Keep up the good work.

I have watched every video I could find on the Ford 2.3L engine. After seeing several guys say that the only way to get your motor to run half ass right is to set the timing mark to 20-BTDC. I had started to believe that my Ranger was stuck with that which the 2.3 gods had given her. Even though I still have 3 left to watch, your mini series has renewed my self confidence, while resurrecting the view I had and lost somewhere along the way. When we build something, anything, that lots of people will soon have, finding a defect is most often Not-Intended, or why bother? I'm a Plumber who now has to work on his own truck. That brought me to you and for that I am thankful. On 10/22/2018 I am going to take a stand against the Appliance Division of LG Inc. with the contention there is a design flaw in their Washing Machine Line. I hope I have gleaned enough from you to get them to hear what I have to say, then act on it in a favorable way. I have 5 new customers this month requesting service. Each was to fix a part I have never had to replace in almost 35 years, unless there were other mitigating contributers weather, Bugs, rodents, Etc. Now I have 5 calls in one month for the same thing on 5 different models, all made by LG. These are people like you and I that simply can not afford it. You helped me to fix my truck and in return I am asking LG to pay each of those bills. I'm most certain I will be successful and on behalf of all of them, I wish thank you again and may God bless you !

Thanks for doing these videos on the LF engines. I'm about to do a timing chain on an MX5 2.0L and these helped tremendously.

Well presented , easy to follow video, really learn a lot here 👍🏽

Easily the best most logical tutorial. Thanks

Thank you for such a detailed series on setting the timing correctly. I am going to be replacing the timing chain/tensioner on my ford/mazda 2.3 dohc soon and this helped me understand the process much better.

These were some great videos ! How could anyone give a thumbs down . You are the man!

Great job , I now fully understand the timing . Thanks again

You are amazing, this is all in one, all I need and safe me a lot lot of time.

Excellent videos. Thank you.

@Baxrok2 Thank you very much for all this content sir. Extremely helpful ! I performed with my mechanic a camshaft swap for my mx5 2.0 duratec and the engine was rough at idle + lost of power. I can see that we did 2 mistakes : first one was not turning the crankshaft with the flywheel to get back to TDC before torqing the cranckshaft pully bolt, seconde one is reusing that same bolt as it is a TTY bolt that should not be reused. We will be checking everything this week hopefully we get it right this time !

Presentation well understood. I am currently having timing issue with my Atenza. Had a damaged crankshaft pulley and one of my friends took the pulley out without setting it on TDC. Unfortunately, I wasn't unable to find a replacement pulley so i decided to weld the two pieces together. After all that, i had it fitted back on and started having problem starting.

Unfortunately I got to the videos too late. I was simply trying to replace a $3 crank seal, due to a minor leak. I found out quickly that this timing assy. was different than any other I had come into contact with. Over the next few weeks Ill be rebuilding my head , and hopefully no more damage occurred. Thanks for the video. When it comes to costly and complex repairs the detail is important.

Thank you very much I will be doing the timing today, my mechanic has been struggling for a whole week but I hope this will help us do it thanks

Very detailed information helped me a lot

you are the best teacher, YOU deserve more subs sure!!!!!!!!!

Вы хороший человек. Благодарю вас за качественное видео 👍

Awesome video, very helpful I am a ford tech just did one on a 2012 ford fusion 2.5.

Nice and clear instruction Thanks may jehovah god bless you.

Great video very informative

Very helpful video sir thanks

Really appreciate the time you've put into this...so helpful. I have a question...my 06 mazda 3 has a harmonic balancer that seems different from what I've seen perhaps...the only way I get to the 9th tooth(when the bolt is in at the 6 o'clock position) is counting counter clockwise from 12 o'clock with a gap after 4 then 5 more. Does that make sense?

Thank you so much for this video I was just trying to figure out how to re align My crank pulley on my ford fusion.

Great job on details

you are very detailed sir......if l had teachers who explains well like you do, l would have gotten straight As all the way

You are the Man !!!

Thank you 🙏🏻, this is very very helpful. I have a question for you, I have a Mazda 2008 CX-7 2.3 liter turbo engine. I had a head gasket problem, and I am a diyer like yourself and first time. I Have the cylinder head off and have had it resurfaced and I am ready to get it back together. At this point I still have the timing cover, the crankshaft pulley and bolt still attached to the block and now need to take it off to get the cylinder head back on so I can replace all the gaskets and then eventually time the three components. Question one do I need to set piston 1 at TDC before I remove the timing cover and pulley bolt? Question 2, was it a big mistake not to set TDC before I took of the cylinder head and camshafts? Any way I can reach out to you via email? PM me if you don’t mind, I can clarify the situation I am in. TY!!! Justin Sorrentino. 2008 Mazda CX-7 (Justin@refreshteks.com)

Your videos are very clear and straightforward. Can I ask one question though? When installing the crankshaft pulley bolt do you lubricate it? And if you do is it just the threads or the threads and the washer? Thanks.

very good video .thanks you

Brilliant. Thank you.

great video tutorial thanks

Late to the party but loving the videos. Just to confirm... is the crank pulley bolt a torque-to-yield (stretch) bolt? If so, and after doing the 90* tightening sequence and you find that you're NOT in spec, should a new bolt be used when tightening down after adjusting again?

thanks for your video sir

your video saved my butt!!!!! thank you!!!!!!!

Thanks for taking the time to explain every detail of the process. I am ready to replace the timing chain in my 2.3l engine. Please can you tell me what is the video that you are recommending to watch in order to replace the timing chain?

Where did you buy you’re diamond coated washers? I’m also building a 2.3l duratec, thanks! Supper helpful I’m using you’re video to time mine in a few weeks.

Thanks man!

thank you very good video

this is one of the best step by step how to's i've seen. Thanks very much. Do you recall the thickness of the cam holding tool jig. It looka likw 1/4" or 6mm?? I think you said also that the bolt you were using as a crank pulley position pin was a 6mm? Appreciate your help.

Hello, What's the Dimensions (thickness and length) of the bar that you used for timing the camshafts ?

Very detailed... thank you for sharing! Question / thoughts: - Cam's are locked at TDC (#1 valves closed) - At 7:10 you are rotating the engine down from #1 TDC back to #1 TDC (for demonstrating how to find / set TDC / crank) - Since #2 & #3 pistons are at BDC, they will have to go to TDC and back to BDC during the time that you rotate the engine from #1 TDC back to #1 TDC I was expecting some kind of resistance from #2 or #3 as they got to TDC... why not? I thought you mentioned that these are interference engines. I guess the valves must not be open far enough to make contact?

Hey bud, Great videos, Can I ask you just one thing? when done in the car how can I verify TDC by moving/using the flywheel? is there an access cover? or remove the starter motor? please help as I'm doing this soon, and the thought of tightening this pulley finally with new washers then having to loosen and put it right bothers me, lol keyless crank and cams bothers me, but like you said there are a lot of these engines/cars out there so it must work.. Thanks buddy.

Great teacher thanks

Appreciate the assist in this

Is it easy to slip the cam tool in when the engine is still a truck (I'm thinking of the Ranger)? Isn't the back of the engine pretty well jambed next to the block?

Omg you are the best

To set the timing, engine in the car, car on stands in the driveway, I locked the cams in position - slots on back ends parallel to head surface - with vise grips on the hexes. Used a drill and grinder to cut an exhaust manifold stud down to work as a timing peg, marked it for length by installing it in the old engine and positioning the crank at TDC . Manoeuvered the peg past the CV joint and threaded it into the block as far as the mark. Turned crank until it contacted peg. (Used vise grip to turn nose of crank - crank turns easily with plugs out, no need for big squeeze with vise grip, no marks on crank) Installed balancer, bolted it to timing cover, torqued to 75 ft/lbs, marked bolt and balancer for 1/4 turn more, and wound it tight. Removed peg, balancer bolt, vise grips (from cams), installed ignition and it fired right up. These videos had me intimidated, but after a dealer quote of over $500., for the job, I went ahead with it. Worked out well. No appreciation here for cranks without keyways. D-uh.

Great videos and learned quite a bit about the Mazda / Ford engines crank-/cam shaft timing. One suggestion though. I just learned that in order to get to TDC the crank needs to turn in multiples of 2 which is why you've mentioned 2 or 4 times or more. I also noticed you are cognizant of this when demonstrating the turns and not stop at an odd number of turns. So, turning it an odd number does not get to TDC where the counterweight would probably not touch the TDC, but the M6 bolt could be installed on the pulley. Also, I am having a heck of a time to turn the crankshaft bolt to 90°. I am guessing I've reached the 45° mark so far, but to crank it further with the engine on the car is becoming a bit of a challenge using a 1/2" breaker bar and the same pulley holder which worked nicely when I removed the bolt. Any tips? Thanks, Jeff

Thank you very much

Thank you so much!!!

Thanks for the great videos well done.Would you advise using ARP grease on a Doorman crank bolt threads and washer i am timing a 2011 Ford Focus 2.0L Duratec engine.I had to re-do the timing because i used the wrong timing peg i had a hard time doing the 90 degree torque thought the grease would make re assembly easier.Thanks for any advice.

Does the VVT actuator need to be aligned a certain way? There are so many videos out there where they mark the VVT actuator before removing it, to ensure it goes back in the same position on the cam. What is the significance of that? Also, should the VVT actuator be locked with pin when timing? Or floating?

You can get the timing peg in by turning the cv axle( some axles have a curved section taken out of it for this reason) where the section is curved is lined up with the peg hole!

Thanks for the videos, I need to fix the engine of my 2005 Ford Focus 2.3 but, I don't know how to remove the timing chain, do you have any videos to fix the engine. Thank you

Thank You!

Thank much how I get in touch with you.. This vid was helpful.

I hear it's important to change the diamond washer to the harmonic balancer, I got a new bolt and washer, but I noticed there's another washer behind the chain sprocket, do I have to change that one as well? I can't find that specific washer, I can only find the bolt with diamond washer, is it the same as the one behind the sprocket?

Quick question after doing the timing am getting a code P0012 when i erase it comes back after about 5km of driving. Am thinking maybe my timing is still a little off but not enough make the car not run as should (note:the last torque of polly was not perfect as i thing it moved a bit while tightening)

Si this timing process also apples to the 2.5 sky active on a Mazda 6 sport 2015?

I have a 2004 2.3 Mazda 3 I’ll be pulling apart this weekend. Have all the parts but am uncertain regarding the diamond washers. Will I need one or two of those? Older service manual doesn’t even mention them. I’m guessing there is one on both sides of the pulley? Thanks again.

I watched all four of your videos on this matter and i must say you did a very thorough job. I have a 2012 Mazda 5 and i always wondered if i had to do this on my own car how much different would it be. I have done engine timing on numerous kinds of car engines but not these. You mentioned in part 1 that you were chasing a problem for weeks and it was your timing all along. What problem did you have to make you do an engine swap?

Hey im having a lot of trouble getting the off the crank pulley. Any advise?

Nice video, thanks a lot! I maybe missed it, but what's the torque on the camshaft bolts?

Thank you!!!!

hey! sorta having an issue with this. i have the engine inside the car so the transmission end of the crankshaft isn't available for me to turn. you mention putting a pry bar on the flywheel to bring the crank back to TDC after loosening the crankshaft bolt. what would be the best way to get access to the flywheel? would that mean taking the oil pan off as well?

The tool you made to hold the balancer while you were tightening the balancer bolt what is the spacing between the 2 bolts?

If I set the timing on the stand, how hard is it to reinstall the motor? That double-wide pulley sticks out so much! By the way, thank you for your video’s! W/o this sort of help available, I would be lost!

thank you for tha video

When I took apart the crankshaft pulley there where no washers anywhere. Is it recommended to put some even though there where non in the original?

I've ordered 2 different timing kits of Amazon but in both cases the timing peg would not fit the hole in the block of a 2009 Miata engine. Any suggestions what I should be looking for or what I should order. One of the 2 even has the purple pegs like you are using.

Where do I put my pry bar to get back to tdc when motor is still in car? I took off starter but have no idea... can you please specify or show us?

Not sure if you will see this comment, but if so, I'm a little confused. I'm swapping a 2012 2.5 out of a fusion into my 2007 2.3 mazda 3s. The engine is timed with the back plate in the cams, the peg is screwed in the side all the way, and the screw is thru the hole in the pully..... Except my 9th tooth isn't even close to lining up. And not just because it isnt adjusted. Its lined up with the 5th tooth and there seems to be paint on that tooth and only that tooth which would make me think thats correct?

I really need your help. Ive got a 06 ranger 2.3 duratec. Truck was given to me by my napa lady i work next to(mechanic at a shop) ive always built sbc and got this motor already apart needinf to be timed and back together. Got the tools and cams look like 180 degrees out.

i don't know if i missed it, but does it not matter where the camshafts are in correlation to the cam sprockets? with vvt and high pressure fuel pump? i'm not finding that anywhereont

Another option I saw on some other video is to rotate the crank with a vise grip instead of the bolt to get to TDC at the end. I'm curious about possible material damage from the vise grip, but maybe I'll give it a try.

So I just got a used 2.0 mzr mx-5 miata engine. To verify it's timed correctly I could just rotate the crankshaft/pulley bolt and see if there's any interference between the pistons and valves?

If the piston hit the valve will it make it look like the motor is locked I timed mine now it seems like my motor is locked

You videos are great! But now I'm fearing the worst. Have Mazda3 s 2007 2.3l hatchback. I have engine stripped down to timing cover off, and chain removed and I'm trying to spend crankshaft around to TDC. However, I can only rotate the crankshaft a total of ~270°. Looking at crankshaft counterweight, the closest I can get it is cranking it counter-clockwise and it stops in the just past TDC. Is there anything that would block the crankshaft from turning all the way except for piston/valve blockage of some sort? I haven't tried to get to the flywheel yet.

Where can I order the timing peg for a 1998 mazda 626

Thanks 🇻🇳

How to remove timing chain cover? take out several pulley

my question is can the crank be 180 degrees out? timing peg was sitting against the crank. I lined up everything with the tools but can still will not start.

What about the gear position? Where should the timing marks on gears be?