You are spot on little guys do not like to be tugged, they like to be squeezed. 😂. Great video thanks for breaking this down I have to get on this when I get off work it's getting hot here in Missouri

Thanks for the video. This helped me a great deal today. Replaced the actuator in my '11 Raptor. Once I got the console loose and moved back from the dash, your instructions were spot on.

Okay....I think I just pulled off THE...most luckiest weirdest..MacGyverest shyt ever...but i hope it helps one of u guys or gals who find it a lil too tight for comfort for that dreaded back screw. 1. 8mm socket...carefully...slowly place it on the back screw...it should settle in on the screw...I STRESS...take it slowly or u will be losing the screw in your dash... 2. Go get some rubber dishwashing gloves...get a size smaller for your hands you want it to be tight to help with leverage 3. Put one glove on...go bareback on the other...you can use both gloves if you want but i used glove on the right hand bareback on the left 4 Using right hand glove...left hand to twist the 8mm socket lefty loosey...right fingers toward the dash...twist left finger towards you. Twist bolt until its loose a third of the way...not all the way or you wont be able to remove the bolt. 5. Remove bolt and you should be able to twist the screw the rest of the way with the rubber glove providing torque and leverage. 6 Carefully remove screw. Unplug and plug new one in thru the front of dash...make sure you push red clip out to remove...push red clip back into to secure... 7 MacGyver shyt time....I was scared to love screw so i cut a long strip of duck tape in half....about 12-15 inches...i wrapped it once around the top of the screw....i then taped the end of duck tape to the inner dashboard metal. This was in case i dropped screw...i had it duck taped to the inner dash metal. Slowly placed screw into hole...then twisted as much as I could...i then grabbed the end of the tape pushed it thru the dash and out the glove box and pulled it down thru... causing the screw to thread into device. I then gloved up left hand...barebacked the right and hand twisted it as tight as i could... Dont know how it worked but it did. Put dashboard back together and voila...no more knocking sound air flow like a mug!!! Sorry for long msg but i had to share

Thanks so much for the video-Honestly, I appreciated the narration, as I have a hard time remembering anything due to a brain infection. I don't know how you men can get your fingers in there! I ended up dropping the harnesses out of the way, and then it came right out. I hope I win the lottery before this part breaks! Lisa D😎

Thank u so much for the video. Helped me alot to replace mine. Thank you!

Great video! It's alot easier to get the 2nd screw out simply by removing the glove box..you have better access to the unit.

Try a finger ratchet for that tight spot on the back bolt next time with a magnetic bit driver and a 1/4 inch socket adapter. It may make it smoother and less likely to loose the bolt.

This needs to be a recall. Once it breaks, there's no making a part last more than a year

what about using one of them round plastic deals on an 8mm socket to let you turn (like a knurl knob) i have a cheap travel kit (socket) and i think it might work for this. just fingers and twist. and as mentioned magnetic telescopic grabber is awesome to get wrenched n dropped screws

Hi sir, would you mind to post the link from where you bought the part, I am little confused with the part number so. Thanks

I’m going to use a zip tie for that rear bolt.

Do you NEED to replace the back screw?

My driver side temp is stuck on cold and passenger can change temp from cold to hot. Is this the motor I need to change for that fix?

Here’s a trick on getting that back screw. Break that part off you fixing lol. Pull up on it and the screw will still be there but you can easily get it out now that the bad parts gone. I mean hell. It’s broke any way. lol

great video, How did you know which to do first [top or bottom]. Mine only blows cold air on the passenger side and sometimes will blow cold on driver & sometimes hot,

Does anybody have links to the parts?

@TheDeeVee by changing this motor you gained your upper dash vents blowing air again correct?

Have u got a video of the blend door replacement

do u know if the dorman has thicker gears than the oem part

Was due to the clicking or no heat on driver side but heat on passenger

Thanks for this video. Thanks for stating this is a common problem. You replaced this motor three times in how many years? Thats annoying! BTW, what radio do you have in your truck?

What are the symptoms of a bad upper actuator blender?

Doesn't that actuator work the heat as well or just the AC... i have no heat?? thx.

This was very helpful and appreciated. You mention though about talking too much. You are still doing that. Repeating yourself repeatedly and gets to be real annoying. Keep working on staying just with the salient points and edit out all of your reitterations.

I have a center council

Which actuator controls temperature? Which one controls airflow direction? My 2013 will switch airflow direction fine (head, foot, defrost), but is stuck at a set temperature, kinda halfway between hot and cold.

Was yours making a consistent clicking noise

how much the shop charge for this job ?

Skip to 3:10

Everybody changes parts in all videos . But they never explaining what going on with your trucks. And why you had to change it .

Such bullshit that plastic crap instead of brass is used for a constantly used sprocket.