2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L P0014 Diagnosis & Fix! [2.5L QR25DE]

Рет қаралды 44,575

2 жыл бұрын

What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on diagnosing & troubleshooting & repairing a P0014 OBD Check Engine Code, as per the Nissan FSM outlines on a 2013-2018 5th gen. Nissan Altima.
Torque Specs included.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech, just a long time wrencher.
Nissan Altima Factory Service Manual (EC):
www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...
*Check out my How-To on getting 5th Gen. Altima on jackstands:
• 2013-2018 Nissan Altim...
Car in video is a 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL.

Пікірлер: 143

@antoineduplessy6009 2 жыл бұрын

From a 61 I mean my age, I want you to know that you are awesome and your demeanor let me understand that you know it too .A very scientifically basic way to explain it to us common mortals .Respect 😊😊😊

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! I truly appreciate your comment 🙏🙏

@brendanalexander3014 Жыл бұрын

Just knocked this out. Honestly is super impressive how you were able to record and work in that space while keeping the quality of the video top notch. Keep it up

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

I definitely appreciate the comment!! 🙏

@lukewielgot712 Жыл бұрын

Awesome video BeeCee! Great video quality and detail. Keep up the good work brother!

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Thank you! I definitely appreciate your comment 🙏🙏

@elwin0212 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for this amazing video! My altima has the same code (P0014) and just want to replace the vvt solenoid. Your video helps a lot!

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

I appreciate the comment, thank you 🙏

@BlueSpades7 Жыл бұрын

Just got this code today at 62500 miles, I have to drive 3000 miles across the US in less than 3 weeks from now, and moneys tight, but you made this look simple and explained it really well so I’m gonna try to repair this on my own..! Thanks for the video, will be using it to repair my own 2013 Altima! Also for more info… my symptoms on my vehicle are more extreme in terms of attempting to start the car up, I had to try 6-8 times before my car decided to start up finally, I seen that time does help though… also I had the car shut off on me too while driving, and ever since I had this car I’ve felt slight jolts and shakiness in the engine on lower gears too… otherwise when the car does drive, 95% of the time it drives just fine.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Sounds like you got about the same symptoms as this had, just more often/severe. Let me know how it goes replacing it!

@aldwaine7171 Жыл бұрын

How did it go ?

@BlueSpades7 Жыл бұрын

@@aldwaine7171 it was way harder then I thought trying to find decent access to the bolt holding the exhaust solenoid valve, I spent almost a good two hours on trying to remove it, but afterwards it went smoothly… car ran just fine since then so I think that was the issue.

@mrdavetrouble Жыл бұрын

Very well done my friend. I have just had a similar situation with a 2014 altima only with P0011 and P0030 codes and CEL that I wnted to relate to you. Following the same debug procedure that you did her the indication was that the problem was probably with the INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE which would be the middle of the 3 VVT solenoids. I used the same under the car procedure in order to replace the solenoid with the same Dorman unit from amazon that you did. I will say that the EM engine mechanical service manual for 2014 seems to behave the above method with motor mount removal but after starting out with that method I realized it would not work and then remembered seeing a different youtube video by Nestor where he did the under the car technique. In my case I removed the solenoid before removing the electrical connector. The reason was because I did not have the manual dexterity to remove the connecter with my hand stuck up in that tight space. I was able to remove it with the removed solenoid hanging down. This is just a minor point but I thought I would mention it. Like in your case the solenoid I removed looked fine and tested fine so I cannot say with certainty that replacing it will solve the problem. I just did this job yesterday so I need to wait a while before I will know. I should mention that in my case the mileage was only 88K but also that the previous oil change intervals were well over 5K. My wife had bought the car used without the maintenance schedule document and I had no idea that the the car would have this type of sensitivity to the condition of the oil. The car does not consume oil so that the oil level was always high. The last oil change before the failure was about 18K so when I did some research I thought for sure the problem must have been due to the extended oil change interval. The first thing I did when I experienced a stall at idle with the car and a pending P0011 code was to change the oil and the problem seemed to go away for about 1000 miles (~ 1 month) before it came back with another pending code and rough running/hesitation. Then I noticed that in the oil change it was still 1/2 quart low so I added the final 1/2 quart and it seemed to run fine for about 1 week. Then it finally came back this a P0011 and P0030 CEL so I knew the oil change did not solve the problem. That's when I replaced the solenoid. However I did not change the oil after replacing the solenoid since at that point the oil was only about 1K old. For now it seems fine but I will need to ride over 1K at least before I can feel safe. I should say for some reason with my scan tool when I look at the status of the monitors for the current drive cycle the misfire monitor never seems too complete so this does cause me concern since I was not aware that the misfire monitor would have a complicated drive cycle that would make it had to complete. Naturally I am hoping for the best but I am wondering if anyone has any information that could help to understand how the misfire monitor might not complete for the current drive cycle even though no misfire codes are being generated. Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to include as much as I could in the hope of someone shedding light on my case.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing your experience! I just actually did the middle intake solenoid on this car as well with the P0011. Pretty much exact same outcome as this video, however the intake solenoid was much less responsive than the exhaust one seen in this video. But i did record a whole video for the P0011 with the same process and approach as this video, I will have it edited and uploaded in the near future!

@jamiespalding1227 3 ай бұрын

Thank you for the video. Helped me fix a friends car in short order.

@TheOriginalBeeCee 3 ай бұрын

Glad it helped 🙏

@PegzieBean Жыл бұрын

omg this was so helpful. There were so many videos supporting the engine and moving that aside but even though this is still hard; it is so much easier than me moving the engine 🤣 I have to take the middle one out, though. So wish me luck.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Lol I appreciate the comment! I think you should be fine though! With the right combo of 1/4 extensions, swivels, sockets, etc. shouldn’t have to move the motor or support anything!

@carljenkins5092 Жыл бұрын

Great video. You make it look easy. I hope my CVT will last this long so far 68000 miles and no issues. The fluid is changed every 35k I guess technically it is a dump and fill. I hope for the best.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Appreciate it! And thats good man….Thats all you can do!

@davidengel5599 Жыл бұрын

Great video, thank you for sharing with us!

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the comment 🙏

@jorgecastro4309 6 ай бұрын

Same I got this code and my Nissan Altima is at 155,000 running good still. As long as you replace the cvt fluid every 60,000 you should be good

@aacantor1 Жыл бұрын

Very enlightening... Well done.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

I appreciate your comment!

@chelseastepherson6342 11 ай бұрын

This video helped me so much thank you!!!!

@TheOriginalBeeCee 11 ай бұрын

Awesome! Glad it helped 🙏🙏

@pauld8369 2 жыл бұрын

If you cleaned the old one with brake clean, (the one you removed), it will fix the sticky solenoid, old oil makes the solenoid sticky and creates the codes.

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

I’m not opposed to that idea. But for the $20-$30 the new part costs, at that price it’s really not worth the gamble. And in this particular cars case….the oil is changed religiously since it was brand new every 5K on the money…and the original wasn’t compromised or sludged up or anything….so idk if cleaning it would have done much for this particular one.

@smestel 2 жыл бұрын

Great tip, thanks!!!

@escapingthematrix3 Жыл бұрын

Funny I did mine earlier with Maf spray and like new amazing

@ahmeedabd4821 2 жыл бұрын

Good job and nice info boss

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

Appreciate the comment!!

@juanfeliciano7592 Жыл бұрын

Wow great video 👏

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Thanks I appreciate your comment!

@gck_replayzz1029 Жыл бұрын

Perfect video!!!

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Appreciate it! 🙏

@user-cj3kv3cb3g Ай бұрын

Welcome from Ukraine! Thank you so much! Very helpful video, fella)

@TheOriginalBeeCee Ай бұрын

Thank you! Appreciate your comment!

@herlessmx5350 Жыл бұрын

Gran video, pero podrás ayudarme con otra consulta? Que número de parte es la válvula? Veo mucha variedad en internet y no quiero cometer un error, saludos desde Durango

@joceysworld5271 Жыл бұрын

Great video,

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Appreciate it! 🙏

@ryanmacedo2117 2 ай бұрын

fix my problem, thank you

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 ай бұрын

🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

@rashidbashir1764 Жыл бұрын

Best video so far on this 💪💪💪 some other dude dropped his engine an all this other shit 😂

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Hahaha definitely unnecessary lol. I appreciate it!!

@andygold 6 ай бұрын

FYI for anyone doing this repair..... The CEL circuit that the solenoids are on are on "non-continuous" monitors. Basically what I'm saying is that if you clear the code, it will take roughly 70+ miles before the circuit reads readiness. You can clear the error, and if your fix failed, you still won't get another light for 70+ miles as the circuit isn't ready to take a reading yet.

@dyno_mite 2 ай бұрын

I get a code P1078 and supposedly it's a exaust solenoid valve. The 3 solenoids were just changed about a year and a half ago. It's a 2014 nissan altima 2.5. I need help on your opinion. And your videos are great and detailed explanation making it easy and budget.

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 ай бұрын

It’s not the solenoid valve, it’s the camshaft position sensor, exhaust side. So camshaft position sensor & EVT control position sensor are the same thing/part. The camshaft position sensors are on top of the motor, there are two of them. Exhaust side is passenger, intake side is driver. This is referring to the exhaust side, passenger. In the Nissan FSM, it outlines checking the power circuit and ground first to the sensor for verification. If they check out, then the camshaft position sensor (exhaust side) needs to be replaced.

@ravenzero7222 6 ай бұрын

SIR you are legendary

@TheOriginalBeeCee 6 ай бұрын

🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

@ravenzero7222 6 ай бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee just a quick question, are 3 valve solenoid the same part ? Or the exhaust and Intake and the other all have different parts numbers?

@TheOriginalBeeCee 6 ай бұрын

@@ravenzero7222 all 3 are the same part 👍

@verinesegarnier-drayton3618 Жыл бұрын

Try using Hotshots FR3 and engine flush prior to oil changes as well.

@theuniverse7227 Жыл бұрын

Hey, I’m getting a p0171 code along with this code. Could you make a tutorial on replacing fuel injectors?

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Hey I would be happy to if it ever comes up on this Altima. I just do videos on jobs on this car as they arise. So if I ever have to do an injector, I would definitely do a video on it. But, if you’re in the South Jersey area I can do it for you! Lol

@aldwaine7171 Жыл бұрын

Could a bad VVT solenoid cause a no start ? Please reply

@Pandacuddless 2 жыл бұрын

Is there anyway you can make a 2018 altima transmission fluid flush outputing from the oil cooler? Ive seen some videos but they didnt show which hose they drained from. Also how to level the fluid using the overflow tank.

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

I actually have two CVT videos on my channel. My original video is really just a spill & fill with the fluid warmer flush: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLSSepOouZfPcmQ.html ...the other newer one is the actual Factory Service Manual method outlined by Nissan: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nLV_p6-erNyvYnU.html ..That's how I would suggest doing it. As I outlined in that video, in my opinion I would suggest spill & fills @ 30K, 60K, then @ 90K perform the FSM "flush" method I outlined in the newer video with filter replacement. Then spill & fill @ 120k, 150K, etc. And both videos have the fluid adjustment via the overflow bolt included.

@Pandacuddless 2 жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee ok thank you so much

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

@@Pandacuddless no problem 🙏

@jayrcastillojr9158 4 ай бұрын

Just changed this thanks to your video ,do u think u can do a cvt fluid change how to video

@TheOriginalBeeCee 4 ай бұрын

Appreciate the comment! And I have one of the most viewed CVT videos on YT! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nLV_p6-erNyvYnU.htmlsi=gTQm4keT7X4qpdjj

@travisburris3397 Жыл бұрын

Just finished this and a oil change on my daughters car. Super tight space to remove the old one and it came out in four pieces.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Sheesh thats crazy it came out in 4 pieces

@dallaspilotcar9293 2 жыл бұрын

Well, thank you for your thoroughness. By chance, did you hear a slight rattle from that general vicinity upon lower speed acceleration? I mean you say that your car was running sluggish but, is there any one thing besides the code that gave it away?

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

No there was no noise from the solenoid or anything from the general area, or anywhere else. I really don’t think any noise issue is something you would experience with bad VVT valve(s). It just fails, it really isn’t a part that makes “sounds”. Car just ran a bit rougher (idle was affected a bit) and it didn’t start once after some driving, and shut off a couple times. That was it really. Its my girlfriend’s car so I didn’t personally experience some of it, but she noticed it for about 2 months before CEL came on. It just didn’t feel “normal”, but it wasn’t drastically affect the car’s performance and it was still getting driven about 500 miles a week throughout the couple months of the problem arising.

@dallaspilotcar9293 2 жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee I am just surprised mine has not gone out yet. I had my third tranny installed about a month ago and it just does not seem to have the get up and go that it used to. No codes and I can see live date with my blue driver. I wished I knew how to interpret the timing advance. Because I think I would be able to diagnose with live data. Again thank you

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

@@dallaspilotcar9293 crazy you’ve done 3 transmissions. I woulda gave up after one replacement lol. But have you been experiencing the lag on since the newest tranny? If that is the case, I would be prone to thinking its trans related. And I’m not familiar with Blue Driver, so I’m not sure if you can pull the timing data from each individual sensor. But if you just read timing advance it should be around 10 degrees on start-up.

@dallaspilotcar9293 2 жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee I may be able to read it on start up if blue driver works with just the key on, but to save battery the accessory will not stay on long. And yes, I pay my car off this month and I use it to work. I drive a pilot car for Oversized loads. I got my third tranny when i had 235K plus miles on my car, I take good car of it and have put so much money into my car in parts, etc, that I do not know when to stop. I purchased it with 4500 miles in 2016 for 16K and since then I know I have spent another 18K on it. SO, i really do not want another car payment right now.

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

@@dallaspilotcar9293 i hear that! Car payments are never fun. But sheesh that’s a lot in repairs lol. But good to see you keeping on it to keep it running!

@MrArtVein 2 ай бұрын

I changed the solenoid but I'm getting a knock still, fresh oil, new filter etc. Only P0014. Could it be the camshaft sprocket?

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 ай бұрын

Here’s the link for the Nissan FSM. Section EC, page EC-212. These are all the steps that should be taken to resolve a P0014. I touched on the FSM breakdown briefly in the video as well, but here’s the link to the entire section with full troubleshooting process outlined by Nissan for the P0014: www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm_download=Altima/2014/EC.pdf#page212

@mkhanbot 3 ай бұрын

i have 2016 altima v4 with 100,000 km and i just got p0014 and p0017 codes plus minor evap leak. Not sure what is going on. But dose it make any sense for it breakdown with such low km's?

@TheOriginalBeeCee 3 ай бұрын

Just for reference, there is no “v4”. The car is a “i4”, standing for inline-4 cylinder. When you hear the terminology “v6” or “v8” etc., it’s referring to the V layout design. 4 cylinders are one straight inline head…hence the terminology “inline-4” or i4. There are also inline 6 cylinders, so they would be an “i6”, etc. Just wanted to shed some light on that for you for future reference. As for the codes, I’m not familiar with the p0017 codes on these cars. However from a quick Google search it looks like it’s a camshaft correlation code, which could just be triggered by the P0014 VVT code. And that is low mileage/km’s to throw that code, but really anything is possible when it comes to vehicles. but it could also be triggered by not being on top of the oil changes/dirty oil, etc

@wu4491 Ай бұрын

My car is a 2013 ALTIMA 2.5. The engine error code I got is P052B. Someone said to replace the top one. I would like to ask you which one to replace? Thanks

@TheOriginalBeeCee Ай бұрын

The factory service manual outlines for that code are to first make sure oil/oil pressure are good, then check intake valve timing intermediate lock control solenoid valve, then check intake valve timing control solenoid valve, then check crankshaft sensor, then camshaft sensor

@dallaspilotcar9293 2 жыл бұрын

So the poo14 is permanent and therefore if i have this issue, that i will not be able to clear this code?

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

No, the P0014 isn't a "permanent" code. As in, it's not a PDTC by definition...where clearing the code with a scanner won't work & only fixing the underlying problem will clear the code. This Launch scanner I have sometimes lists codes as permanent codes when stored, even if the code isn't a "permanent code" by definition...as you see in the video where it listed the same P0014 code 3 times as pending/current/permanent. Launch's user manual defines "permanent DTC" as a code indicating there is a definite problem in one or more of the vehicles systems, and the CEL light is steady on. I probably should have noted that in the video. But when I cleared the code @ 30:36 it cleared everything completely, as you can see there was no CEL (or any DTCs) after I started it up @ 31:08. The code reader completely cleared the P0014 code, and it never returned after resetting after repair.

@shawnbarrett6721 Жыл бұрын

Hey great video man !!! My Altima has this Poo14 code as well except i cannot get mine to start at all !! Is having this bad vvt solenoid a reason for the car to not start up at all ? Everything else seems to be working as far as battery and alternator ?

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

I appreciate it man! What happens when you press the start button though? Anything? Clicking, cranking, nothing, etc.?

@aldwaine7171 Жыл бұрын

Hey did you ever figure this out ?

@aldwaine7171 Жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee hey mine has same code and won’t start either but it tries hard to, replaced cam & crack shaft sensors

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

@@aldwaine7171 as long as your sure your battery is good and is roughly 12.4-12.5v when cold…then there’s a good chance the solenoid can be preventing you from starting if you have the code.

@aldwaine7171 Жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee yes, brand new battery thank you !!

@prc.affliction4447 4 ай бұрын

Hey sir I got 2 codes that is P0776 - P0965 would you let me know what this is and what to do please. Thanks

@TheOriginalBeeCee 4 ай бұрын

They are both transmission trouble codes unfortunately. Both codes are referring to pressure control solenoid B…..which is in the transmission. The solenoids are located on the valve body (inside of the transmission). If you remove the transmission pan, the bottom of the valve body is what you’ll see when the pan is removed. You can get an idea of what the valve body looks like here: ucarpart.com/products/jf016e-valve-body-w-solenoids-31705-28x0b-for-nissan-altima-2-5l-2012-2016?currency=USD&variant=43858873712888&Google%20Shopping&stkn=1191dc9a40be&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA6KWvBhAREiwAFPZM7tThmkIcrkp7vRKXL7xoy64HmiBh5xeZnEaaC6hOkr1MQ2WVPRWxMBoC3YAQAvD_BwE The solenoid needs to be replaced more than likely. You can drop the valve body and replace the solenoid, replace the valve body in its entirety with all new solenoids, or replace entire transmission.

@negranomicon Жыл бұрын

Do you know the code for a stuck cylinder in a 2015 Nissan Altima? The mechanic wouldn't give it to me at the dealership!

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

A stuck cylinder? There is no code for a “stuck” cylinder that I’m aware of, and if a cylinder was stuck….the car wouldn’t run. Very awkward they wouldn’t provide you with a code though. You can really go anywhere and have the codes pulled for nothing or next to nothing to get the troublecode(s) from the car.

@jaquelinesapien1818 2 жыл бұрын

Do they all need to be replaced? How do I know which one to replace

@TheOriginalBeeCee 2 жыл бұрын

Check out @ 11:42. If you have the P0014 code, and only the P0014 code….its referring specifically to the one I replaced in the video, the exhaust valve timing solenoid. Some like to replace all 3 at the same time if one goes bad, which I’m not opposed too. Its really moreso preventive maintenance, with the thought that if one went bad, the others aren’t far behind. But you don’t necessarily have to do that, you can just replace the one that you’re actually getting the code for… and you can get away with just that, like I did.

@escapingthematrix3 Жыл бұрын

If it was your car would you replace all 3 honestly I already did the vvt and the others are fine it's calling for a MAF now and I'm planning on picking her up in the morning

@PremiumBiasYT Жыл бұрын

A multiple misfire can also be your coils. Just had this issue.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

A P0300 by itself would typically stem from coils or plugs. I was referring to the P0014 being specifically being partnered with a P0300, which could be a possibility and would typically be the VVT. Not a standalone P0300.

@jamesferguson6501 9 ай бұрын

I have p0300,p0014 and p0017 where should I start any suggestions??

@TheOriginalBeeCee 9 ай бұрын

The P0017 is concerning. That code is typically thrown when the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor are out of alignment. Could be something as simple as the Crankshaft position sensor. I’ve seen the crkshft code p0335 partnered with p0300, but never all 3 of those codes together. You can do some testing with a multimeter to help do some diagnosing. You can test the VVT solenoid as i did in the video to check that off…you can also check the crankshaft position sensor with a multimeter as well, it should be 0 ohms between both terminals of the sensor. You can also do the same with the camshaft position sensors, they should both read the same @ 0 ohms.

@MrAllenTv773 Жыл бұрын

Will this stop my car from getting power to accelerate

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Definitely a possible symptom. This car was doing that, but it was intermittently

@teresateresa6342 Жыл бұрын

I have a 2014 Altima base 2.5 and my rpm tachometer is fluctuating under 55mph what can cause this? I don't have any lights on no codes either. any clue? when it is fluctuating car slows and then goes on..but again its under 55mph. please help??

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Hello, sorry to hear about your issue. Honestly, its kind of hard to say without actually evaluating the vehicle, as there a quite a few causes to those symptoms. Really the car should be looked over under the hood, as well as have scanner hooked up to read live data to see if anything looks off.

@teresateresa6342 Жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee there are no codes coming up. Never has been any codes. I had dealership check it several times and nothing. They did reprogram the ECM and TCM but again never any codes popped up. I just want to see what's causing it. I'm getting my MAF sensor cleaned tomorrow and have a guy check my throttle to see if it's dirty. Do you know possibly what I can try through process of elimination??? Thanks

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

@@teresateresa6342 i’m not referring to the car being scanned for error codes (check engine light). Higher end OBDII automotive scanners can read/scan live data. So while the car is running, the scanner would be capable of reading live data from most-if not all of the cars sensors, sometimes pin-pointing issues that haven’t trigged the “check engine light”….that is of course….if the individual reading the live data knows what they’re looking at. I would hope the dealer would have done this, and also know what they’re looking at…but unfortunately thats not always the case. For instance, a MAF could cause such symptoms as your experiencing, but i would be curious to see on a live data reading what the calculated engine load, AFR, long term & short fuel trim, & MAF G/S is. These readings would help determine if it is indeed the MAF or not. But your issue could be stemming from a lot of issues, MAF, mis-firing, or even the CVT transmission…which I don’t want to jinx it for you, but from what I’ve seen most of the time a jumpy tach on these cars is a result of CVT issues. Even the tach in the cluster itself could be bad (although I highly doubt that is your issue). The problem is there are quite a few possibilities…and trying to rule it out by process of elimination…which would really involve you potentially spending money on parts you may not need, hoping it fixes something by the process of elimination is never the way. That can get pricey fast. It could even be a bad ground or one of the battery sensors. I would have that all cleaned up well to at least rule that out…and that should be free basically. I wish I had more insight for you, but with a issue like this there is a good variety of potential causes, and all someone can do without properly diagnosing the issue is just speculate. I wish it was a more cut & dry issue where I could say “its this”, but with what you’re experiencing the car should be really evaluated by someone who knows what they’re looking at. Again, I would hope the dealer you went to would have been capable of this, but something is obviously wrong with the car and they weren’t able to figure it out. That doesn’t mean someone else couldn’t. I would maybe even suggest taking it to another Nissan dealer different from the one you went too. I say ensure all the ground wires to the battery and all that is removed and cleaned super well, make sure all grounds look clean and good, sand them and reinstall, and do the same for the current sensor and big positive fuse block on the battery. Try that first and if that doesn’t resolve it, I would suggest another dealer pull live data.

@teresateresa6342 Жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks for the information. I did go to another dealership and both kept looking at me like I was naive to my car. They both were saying we can't find anything wrong. I had even emailed the regional service manager and nothing happened. So today I'm driving home and my car acts like it wants to stall out. It's never done that. Now I'm terrified. I used to go to Nissan dealership every few weeks saying my rpm tachometer is still doing same thing. Each time they send me away. No codes popping up. I never had check engine light nothing. So now I'm like what's wrong with my car??. It's out of warranty for the cvt since earlier this year. But car always drove fine. I had the required fluids.. cvt,fuel and whatever they say changed by Nissan 2 years ago. I don't travel much basically only drive to work and around town. I had it maintained by Nissan since I purchased new in 2014. I'm take by a shop tomorrow so hopefully he can see what's now causing hesitation which is new starting today. 🤔

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

@@teresateresa6342 well damn sorry to hear! Well good luck……let me know what you find out!

@stevey12jrs Жыл бұрын

Is that part the same for the other 2 solenoids?

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

Yessssir

@escapingthematrix3 Жыл бұрын

No it's not

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

@@escapingthematrix3 please, don’t comment on my video with incorrect information. All the 3 are exactly the same. Don’t believe me? Here’s your proof. Aside from visually seeing they are clearly the same……..Only one part # listed for VVT Solenoids for this car. Not one part for each individual solenoid… From Nissan, one solenoid: www.coulterpartscenter.com/search?search_str=Variable+solenoid Rockauto: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2014,altima,2.5l+l4,3305930,engine,variable+valve+timing+(vvt)+solenoid+/+actuator,12910 Advance: shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?searchTerm=vvt+solenoid&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1 (You might have to insert year/make/model for those links to reflect correctly) …on the part listing on Advance, even says “3 required” under the part, indicating all 3 are indeed the same part. ✌️

@Midge1224 Ай бұрын

Would it be better to drain my oil first

@TheOriginalBeeCee Ай бұрын

Naa it really doesn’t matter

@johnbollea Жыл бұрын

Great video. I have 2016 Nissan Altima with 168k miles. When I start my car, it will run for 5 minutes then it will stall out. If I press on gas, the stalling stops. But I have to keep pressing on gas to prevent stalling. I replaced my battery, and air filter which did not help. Any ideas?

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

No check engine light?

@johnbollea Жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee Yes, the check engine light is on.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

@@johnbollea have you ran the code? Is it this code I’m assuming?

@johnbollea Жыл бұрын

@@TheOriginalBeeCee I don’t have a scanner. I’m hesitant to take it to an Auto Zone, because I don’t want to risk getting stuck.

@TheOriginalBeeCee Жыл бұрын

@@johnbollea definitely would be worth it to invest in one. You can get decent ones from Amazon for a good price. I have a couple different Launch scanners which can be found on Amazon, and they’re good for a good price. You need data to figure out whats going on. Otherwise, we are just shooting shots in the dark. guessing is never how you want to approach diagnosing auto issues, you’ll just be throwing parts at it. You need to get that code…I’m sure it’s related and will steer you in the right direction. If you get me the code I could help furthering shed some light.

@dallaspilotcar9293 2 жыл бұрын

Surging? I have 241k miles on my 2016 third tranny. But over all of this time i have had po300 and if memory serves me right i have had that code before. No codes at this point. Never have i ever replaced the VVT valves . What do you mean rough?