Thats awesome, and yo are welcome

Mine is P07A2, P0700 no drive reverse , if every time u shift from P-L u can hear it click if they all click it’s not the TCM it’s not the transmission it’s the clutch actuators , giving y’all information for future people who have this issue with a Stalling or slipping tranny

@@LuhNoSho clutch drives - you name 2 motors that turn the fork mechanism?

I just watched a video on KZfaq yesterday where a guy had the same issue. He purchased a Ford "as-is" with no reverse, but it drove forward. He did the ground strap fix (remove the battery ground nut from the wheel well, grind off the paint, and then tighten the ground back to it. It fixed his problem. Here is the link to his video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ip6RfNWUzarRmH0.html

@@DewayneGore thanks you very much for this link. :o) I'll let you know if I have any success. Btw, I went to a local KIA/Ford dealer to have them look at it. Talk about a vague conversation. The lady who took care of me, told me that I need a brand new transmission. 10 grand. That's damn near almost half the price (KIA Optima duel clutch) that I'd paid for the car. No way. Anyways. I sensed b.s. because she didn't give me any breakdown of what kind of test that they'd done, like the other KIA dealer that I normally go to, will tell me. I'm going back to that one this coming week. I don't know if it's a coincidence, but the day before, I had got my car washed at a auto carwash. All was fine. But I remember running over a old bumper on the freeway on my home. A truck had hit it and it hit my bumper. I didn't see any damage, but just scuff marks that was easy to scrap off with my fingernail. I put my car in reverse with no problem, after looking to see if there was any damage. The next day I'm heading out, got in my car and my battery didn't have enough power to crank it. AAA comes out, the guy didn't have the charger on the battery post less than 4 seconds and the car started right up. He said that he was surprised that the battery was drained (Duracell), because that particular brand is a reliable, solid battery He'd done a test to see if it was low. He said that it was fine, but he did point out that my factory battery is a AGM, and was wondering that one in my car that I had replaced at, "Batter store", is an AGM. HE wasn't able to confirm it. Anyways. When I drove it, it was sluggish, so I'd parked it to let the battery charge up more. And it was at that point, where I couldn't reverse. When I put the car in reverse, it shows the "R" logo on the cluster gauge. But it doesn't even detect that it's in reverse gear. I've bought the car brand new, 2016, and never had this problem until that day. So I'm guessing that, either the AAA battery charging device caused it. Or there is a parasitic drawl. I'm thinking that it's the later, because my battery was low. Plus, I recall in the past, a couple of times, where my car didn't detect my FOB key to unlock it. And the battery in that was new. Plus, my car tells me when the FOB battery needs to be changed. Anyways. I'm going to look at the video.

I couldn't go in reverse when it happened. I think that's the cause of the bottom one going bad.

@@RobArmyStrong anything work ?

I just bout my actuator I was able to to go into reverse and I was able to drive it shifted hard going into 2nd gear but I’m going to replace the top one to see if it works

@@loganr7396 Did it work??

@@RicardoTorres-le3ky tbh no not really it helped with the hard shifting but the tcm is what’s fucked I think

I can show you how to do it. I work a full time job, while taking care of my wife who suffered a major stroke six weeks ago, so I'm about tapped out. Haven't had time to even ride my motorcycle lately.

@@DewayneGore I'm sorry about your wife. I hope she is improving.

So far so good. *knocks on wood*

Unfortunately, no. This is for non-shifting issues and the transmission going into neutral while driving and not going back into gear. I would highly recommend trying the ground fix issue as described here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ip6RfNWUzarRmH0.html

Did you fix your "transmission overheating" code? My car has the same problem.

For me when that happened with my ‘15 Ford Focus, it wasn’t the actuator, it was the shift forks binding and the clutch. Got that fixed under the factory warranty no problem, but then…..had to get a new battery which took about $200 out my pocket, but still, not too bummed about it. Now it’s giving me a “Transmission fault. Service now” issue, so now I gotta take it back to Ford and see what the issue is and then go from there

No, they are plug and play.

Yes.

www.ebay.com/itm/253981808668

Hope you didn't fall for that. Hope you get it fixed quickly and cheaply.