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Kainslaton366, your recommendations are as valuable as 12 of these very important Videos! Thank You SO Much !!!

Update? Did it work out for ya!? Peace

Thanks for watching Partner! Hope your Vehicle is Shifting like a Dream after this!

Hey thanks for watching! Im so sorry to hear you're having this issue. I don't like to 2nd guess a mechanic especially one who presumably had eyes on your vehicle. But I don't believe your described issue can be fixed by a Solenoid. A grinding noise/sensation is not a symptom typical to a faulty Solenoid. The noise plus the fact your fluid was "toasted" (presuming burnt) it's most likely the lack of properly maintained transmission fluid has caused damage to your clutch plate!! If the fluid was burnt that means it had zero ability to dissipate heat (its main job) and lubricate for the clutch plate and gears. You most likely have a clutch plate if not torque converter issue. If I'm you, I would save up some tips. Spend the 1 to 2hr cost (assuming they'll charge most shops will diagnose most things for free in hopes you will in turn pay for the repair) and have a transmission shop diagnose it. That way you have 100% all the information you need to properly determine what your next option is. As opposed to assuming it's roached and ditching the van, spending time/$$ swapping a Solenoid to have it not fix the issue or have the van breakdown w/ clients. I hope this was some what helpful, happy wrenching!

Thanks@@minutemaintenance7385, your input is much appreciated!

Hey thanks for watching!! Sorry for delay in response..I did Not drain the fluid first, However You absolutely should! Some ppl have been able to change this Solenoid w/o draining the pan..others have not been able to. Better safe then sorry. I always recommend b4 changing this Solenoid to do a fluid and filter swap first, the majority of "codes" or sensor malfunctions I've seen in my lifetime are due to poor/thin/dirty/burnt fluid or a bad filter!! BUT as you're finding yourself stuck in 1st gear or limp mode..if it's my vehicle I'd plan on draining the fluid, and changing the filter and Solenoid all in one!! Happy Wrenching!!

Sorry for late response...if I'm understanding you correctly you wish to check the transmission fluid "Cold"...not the best idea but better than nothing. If checking "cold" meaning, not at operating temperatures, the fluid will be around the bottom/tip curve of the dipstick. The measurements for a "Cold" transmission fluid check are roughly 5 to 15mm/.2 to .6 inches. Hopefully that helps.

Hey thanks for watching...so based on the Information you gave, and assuming you used a good mechanic who used a new or reliably refurbished valve body...if it's throwing speed sensor and gear ratio codes it is possibly going to be related to the "Compounder". The 62TE transmission is notorious for having these internal gear shafts fail due to bad rings on the shaft. This is a more involved but rebuildable item, but I'd take the van to a Certified transmission shop for appropriate diagnosis. Good luck!

Hey thanks for watching! Sorry for delay in response I did not receive notification of this question! Based on the symptoms and codes I'm lead to believe it may be an issue w/ the Solenoid Pack itself. In this video I replace the TCC/Shift Solenoid but it is Bolted directly to rhe Solenoid Pack so I Show how to get to the area you need to be, and talk about which bolts are next to remove the Solenoid Pack, although I don't perform that specific task as it wasn't required for this vehicles issue. Even though fluid level was full and not burnt if its old/thin OR the filter is dirty/clogged the Transmission will lose ability to develop the hydraulic pressure required to perform appropriate shifts/gear changes. So if it's been..40..50k+ miles since the last transmission filter and fluid swap I'd consider that as first resort, 1 its the most common cause for transmission codes snd hesitations (micro particles shorting out sensors and inability to develop pressure or cool transmission) and its cheaper then buying a whole new Solenoid Pack so if it may fix the issue I'd consider that first. Hope that helps. And Happy Wrenching!

Thank you for watching! Based on your brief explanation there could be varying issues that would cause this issue. I'll list them in the order I'd check.. 1: Low/Old/Dirty transmission fluid and filter. If the fluid isn't the right viscosity due to being old and thin or dirty the van can't maintain the fluid pressure needed to shift/hold gears. Quick shifting will force the van to stall out. 2: Shift Solenoid. It is possible one of the shift solenoids is faulty (or sending bad readings due to issue outlined in #1) 3: Torque Converter going bad. The torque converter I'd the Muscle behind the transmission working, if 1 or 2 have been acting up for to long it will cause overheating and damage to the converter. If you can find a mechanic shop or transmission shop preferred, if have it properly diagnosed. Your issue is clearly a safety concern for you and others on the road. Most shops will diagnose for free (hoping you'd pay them for the job in the end) but even if it costs $100 or so..better to "know" for sure which sensor, which wiring issue, what's part is bad and if it's fixable as opposed to chasing possible sources as the issue described does truly have dozens of possible causes, I simply outlined the 3 I'd be focused on if it was my van. Happy Wrenching and Good Luck!

Hey Thanks for watching and the Question! That is not a symptom in my experience that can be caused solely due to the Solenoid Pack. If the trans pump was recently changed hopefully it's still under warranty as that would be my first guess as to the problem.

Oh No, I'm so sorry to Hear That! It's Possible that Strain to the Electrical System Caused the Code to Erroneously display or the Sensor to Not have enough electricity to properly work thus causing the issue. The 62TE Transmission has an electrically activated Clutch so any change in electrical current could cause a bad shift or sensor to throw an erroneous code. What specific vehicle do you have, code are you showing and are there any symptoms associated with the issue?

Hey thanks for watching! My instincts say no, the main symptom would he stalling. Basically when the shift solenoid fails, it causes the torque converter to lock in place causing the vehicle to stall. If the van just isnt going into the right gear or has low power in a specific gear I'd check my fluid first. Make sure it's full AND clean. Not old and burnt. If that checks out I'd unfortunately recommend going for a formla diagnosis at a shop, its fairly inexpensive, lots of places do it for free expecting you to have them perform the work afterward. But at least youd know. If fluid looks suspect, swap the filter and fluid. Good luck!

BTW, about 2 quarts of transmission fluid leaked. Is this normal? Thanks again.

@@readytoretire1 Hey Boss! Yes There will be Some Fluid Loss, I Personally Had No Loss on this Vehicle but I've Known Others to Lose 1+ qts! Just be sure to top your fluid back off! A transmission fluid and filter swap is never a bad idea! As far as washers my bolts did not have any, nor did my cover have any gasket or RTV..I've Seen others have washers and gaskets and I haven't found literature from a maintenance manual to verify whether they're needed or not! If your car had either I'd toss new ones on! Thx for watching and commenting!

Hey thanks for watching and.the question! I apologize for delayed response I did not get the notification form KZfaq sent directly!! Based on the symptoms you described I don't believe the TCC Solenoid would be the culprit. The most concerning issue mentioned was the "strong impact"..I'm envisioning some form of clunk or drop when shifting which could be caused by a worn out bearing or internal part. If you changed the fluid and filter yourself and can recall if it smelt/looked burnt..overly dark or even silty as if there were fine particles inside that'd be an indicator of a More severe internal break down. You could always pull the dipstick and check the current fluid for any sediment type material (ceramic or metal flakes) or a strong burning smell but won't be as accurate as the old fluid would have been. But if I'm you..I'd have it inspected at a Local transmission shop as soon as possible. Some transmissions can be saved before it gets to the point if replacement/rebuild, let them diagnose it, most in my experience do it for free to attract potential customers, but even if it costs an hrs labor it'll give you the knowledge needed to make an informed decision!! Not the answer you were hoping for but best I can do! Good luck boss!!

Hey thanks for your question, I apologize for the delayed response been busy preparing for the upcoming Thanksgiving festivities this week!! The Solenoid I changed in this video is not the same as the overdrive Solenoid. At the bottom of this I will post a link to the Solenoid diagram for the 62te transmission. Keep in mind with any transmission code..or anything electrical really, there could be many reasons "why" that specific code is appearing..bad wiring, dirty transmission fluid, clogged passage ways w/ in the transmission, bad Solenoid, short in the ecm/pcm..there is no quick fix it will depend on properly diagnosing and Inspecting the transmission and valve body pack for damage. The Solenoid I changed in this video was determined based on common issues w/ the 62te such as stalling when shifting gears that can only be explained (for the most part) by a fault with the specific TCC Solenoid I changed. For individual solenoids such as Solenoid c, b, high/lo solenoids etc the causes can be less specific. For transmission work I always recommend having a vehicle diagnosed by a local transmission shop so you know 100% what is wrong as opposed to guessing. Hope you get your issue resolved and Happy Wrenching! www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/312-62te-solenoid-identification-connector-pin-out

There was no gasket or seal! That side of the Transmission does not get exposed to excessive amounts of fluids because all the electronics are on that end.

My 2015 is doing the same as yours, did you replace the solenoid and if so did it fix the problem?

@joshdavis6753 I haven't had it occur again for me to go out and bite the bullet on this repair. I'm a little hesitant reading comments about transmission fluid leaks while accessing the part and other comments suggesting I replace a seal while I'm down there. Let me know if you end up doing this. I'd like to trade the damn thing in, but times are tough

The honest answer is...it depends! How old is the fluid and filter? If it has never been changed...or hasn't been changed in several thousand miles (50k plus) it is possible the bad, dirty, or burnt fluid caused the sensor to trigger. I would at the very least try and check the fluid. Make sure the level is at the proper place and the fluid looks clean! If the fluid looks serviceable then my next step would he to change the sensor!

Yes Sir! Fixed the Problem Permanently...or At Least for 8 months Before the Owner Traded it In for a Newer Van!! Didn't Seem Prudent to do a "After" Test Drive, as I Couldnt Get the Van to Do the Stalling Beforehand. It Was an Intermittent, NO code, Issue Diagnosed Based on the Owners Description of the Problem and Online reportings!! But Yes IT solved it, I Personally Drove the Van Back to the owner the Following Morning, 150 mile Drive.

Yeesh you are right there isn't much info out on that switch. I'll attempt to drum up a shop manual and get better Info but from what I'm able to determine you'll need to go thru the same process of locating the Valve Body as I did and that sensor is also bolted on in the same general area. Assuming you also have the 62TE transmission. What leads you to believe this sensor is your issue? Are there any codes? Has it been properly diagnosed?

I'm tracking! Sometimes you gotta make adjustments on the fly...if its between saving the insulation cover or swapping the solenoid so the van shifts...I'm cutting that cover out haha good luck!

Oh Man I'm So Sorry to Hear About Your Transmission Problems. Are There any Lights or Codes Being Shown?!?

@@minutemaintenance7385 code says low line pressure, has fluid, new trans filter ect

Oh Geez that's a tough one. That Code can have several causes. Since you've installed a new filter and new clean fluid to the proper level...we can rule out dirty fluid/filter being the cause. But that could still leave a bad PCM, Clogged or Dirty Valve Body, Bad Sensor...Honestly If I'm You I'd take it to a Shop to get properly diagnosed! Something like that is hard to pin point without being hands on! I'm sorry I didn't have more info for ya..if it is as simple as a bad sensor...or even dirty fluid still being in the valve body..the long you wait to get it diagnosed and fixed..the more permanent and costly the damage will be!

Hey, Thanks for Watching the Video! If Your fluid is "Dark" I'd Consider Changing the Fluid and the Filter First and Soon!! The Darker it Gets=the More Burnt/Old it Is. Most Common Transmission Issues as Far as Slipping, Hesitation Shifting etc Can be Resolved with New CLEAN Fluid. If Its My Van, I'd Do That First, If That Doesnt Resolve the Issue Then My Thought Would be a Bad Shift Solenoid.

Interesting! No I did not drain the Transmission for the Solenoid swap nor did I have any fluid spill out. That makes me concerned if somehow you damaged a Transmission Fluid line during your swap? Loosened up the Transmission pan by accident Or possibly the Main Valve Body (the part the Solenoid is actually bolted onto) is loose. If you're able to pinpoint where the fluid started thatd be useful. Being everything is expensive electronic components there should be very little fluid anywhere within that cover.

@@minutemaintenance7385 thanks for the response. Definitely was a surprise. I’ll be pulling it apart again to further investigate. Hopefully it’s an easy fix 🤞

same thing happened to me on 2016 caravan, any info as to why fliud came out? About a half a qt

@@minutemaintenance7385 The most likely reason you had no fluid loss is because the transmission is low on fluid. The cooler lines appear to have been leaking for a long time.

Hey thanks for watching! What your describing are similar symptoms for the solenoid I swapped in this vehicle! I always suggest, changing the transmission fluid and filter FIRST as in ANY vehicle the most common cause of shifting issues is old, dirty or low transmission fluid! But I would say you're on the right path!

Hey Thanks for watching! I always recommend ppl do a transmission fluid and filter change first before changing solenoids or the pack...reason being in my experience the majority of codes thrown or shifting issues occurring..95% or higher are because the fluid is old/thin/dirty or rhe filter is dirty and or clogged! But to answer your specific question you would need to replace the Solenoid pack as opposed to the TCC Solenoid I demonstrate in this specific video. Good luck, and Happy Wrenching!

Thanks for watching! Based on the code you gave that is a "generic" code not really associated specifically with the sensor I changed. The most common cause of that code is dirty, old, burnt transmission fluid, dirty/clogged filter, or low fluid. Meaning the most efficient course to take would be a transmission filter swap and fluid fill. If thay doesnt resolve the issue there could be a problem with the ECM itself. I'll link to a video I did performing a transmission flush on this same van. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nNt9Y8dluMy4nI0.html

Thanks for watching! This solenoid I replaced in this video may fix the issue. BUT I always tell everyone. Change your Transmisison fluid and filter FIRST! 99.99999% of the time, Low, Dirty/old fluid is the culprit! The solenoids will throw a code if it senses poor pressure in the valves..which is almost Always caused by not properly maintaining the transmission. Only AFTER driving for a long time with dirty fluid and filter will the solenoid finally lock up or due to a short caused by build up of ceramic/metal material in the fluid from natural transmission use due to..not changing the fluid! Hope this helps, Happy Wrenching!

Hey thanks for watching! So sorry for delayed response, I did not receive this notice! If your fluid was black it needs to be changed along with the filter asap! Black fluid= Burnt/dirty which could explain the lack of grabbing/power when in reverse. If the fluid is old, dirty, burnt it wont allow for proper gripping within the gears. The fluid not only lubricates and cools the transmission, it also allows for hydraulic pressure and friction needed for the transmission to shift!! Change the fluid and filter and you should see a noticeable difference in all gears!! Now if the fluid is as "black" as I'm imagining then it is possible damage has already been done to the solenoids, gears, bands etc. Hopefully you've noticed the issue in time!! Good luck and Happy Wrenching!

Sorry to Hear you're having issues!! If You Don't feel confident resolving the issue on your own, best bet is to always find a certified mechanic in your area! Good luck!

Sorry you needed a New Torque Converter! That's the tricky thing about these 62TE transmissions..the best way to Determine the issue is Symptom based as opposed to Check Engine Light. Glad your Vehicles running again!

Sorry for Delay in response, somehow KZfaq never sent me a notification of your comment/question! That's a tough one... could be this solenoid..could be a computer/electrical issue in your friends car. Dealerships are all about Making Money..if they have Zero idea of how to fix it/what the problem is (meaning charge your friend to fix it) I'm at a loss on my end!!

Thanks for the info on the Bolts Partner!! I'm not good at Metric/Standard equivalencies. As far as the shifting issue..if only occurring "underload" and "uphill"..and is downshifting that to me sounds like normal Transmission work trying to compensate for a heavy load...is it accompanied by any burning smell, chugging, slipping...something that indicates the Transmisison is working hard?

@@minutemaintenance7385 No burning smell or other scary symptoms. Perhaps it's time to flush and replace the fluid & filter. Thanks for your reply. Cheers

Me to but level is too high

Hey thanks for watching! You are correct I did not mention the Transmission Fluid level check in this video as I did a 2nd video for how to perform a fluid drain and filter swap...that's mentioned at the end...immediately after I filmed this one. I should have labeled this 1 of 2 as opposed to thinking ppl would naturally be directed to the 2nd portion. Good catch! As far as the gasket you are right a bead of RTV would not have been a bad idea, although the van didn't have any leaks in the year the owner had it after the fix b4 trading it in for a newer model. Based on the research, it was 70/30 whether a gasket was used or needed. The local Dodge Dealership said they never replace it and when final taking the pan off I didn't see any signs of a gasket so I ran with it! Thanks for watching and appreciate the constructive criticism!

Hey thanks for watching and reaching out! I'm sorry you're having these issues. Based on the codes you've given, if it may van my main focus or area of concern would be code P0882 (Low voltage between TCM and ECM). This can be caused by a host of issues from bad/faulty/corroded Pin connector, bad relay/fuse or even wiring within the circuit. If it's not getting the proper voltage it cant read the codes appropriately and could also mean the Computers aren't even sending proper signals to the solenoids you mentioned so they could be reading falsely. Unfortunately this issue doesnt have a simple solution, it will require a hard diagnostic to verify proper voltage in several different areas of the system to confirm its functioning! 😬 too complicated for me to type out and I would highly recommend spending the $200-300 a sharp would charge to diagnose such an issue to have a definitive answer provided..could be an easy fix..could need an entirely new wiring harness or computer!! BUT if you want to try a few things first, you could take your battery to a shop or auto store to verify it's good. If your battery has a dead spot it is possible its sitting at proper voltage stationary but under certain load circumstances its voltage or ability to maintain voltage is lacking which could result in the system faulting. Verify the battery terminals are clean and solid, if battery is good then perform a reset of the computer..several different ways to go about this process I'd suggest youtbubing a few methods and see which your comfortable with (certain vehicles have specific intervals of key rotations and timing to perform a reset or just disconnect the battery and ground the negative to the chassis for 2 to 3 hrs to drain every relay and capacitor within the system). If this doesnt change the P0882 code then itll definitely need hands on ohms testing by a technician (if you're handy with a multimeter you can try yourself all voltage readings are listed on several sites with a brief Google search). To address the solenoid codes those could definitely be caused by the p0882 (low voltage) issue or dirty/low transmission fluid and bad filter. A simple fluid and filter flush is always recommended b4 swapping solenoids due to contaminants in the fluid routinely causing false reads. Wish there was an easy answer but the spectrum is so broad when it comes to electrical related issues. Good luck, and Happy Wrenching!!

That's your tipm causing that...tipm is the motherboard of the car and only Chrysler and Dodge have them from 2008 and up ....

Thanks for the Question. I had no Codes, the diagnosis was soley based on Symptoms. The Shift Solenoid is notorious for not throwing codes but having very specific symptoms/struggles as I outline in the video!! The swap did resolve my customers issue!

@@minutemaintenance7385 okay good to know. Running into the same issue. Thanks!! And great video.

Evening Boss, Thanks for Watching the Video! Short Answer is Yes You Can. You May Experience Some Fluid Loss Depending on How Much is Currently in the System. But You Absolutely Can Swap the Shift Solenoid Without Draining the Transmission. That Being Said I Do Have a Video About How to Perform a Transmission Filter/Fluid Exhange and Would Recommend You Do That as Well to Cover all Your Bases! New Solenoid w/ Fresh Fluid and Filter to Put the Transmission in the Best Position Possible!

Thank you friend! You are greatly appreciated! 🙏🏽

Can you give me a bit more info and explain what you mean when you say "not shifting right"

Have you fixed your no shift problem?

740 code most likely needs a new converter... as they say over the forums

Hey Thanks for watching and sorry for delay in answering your question, I did not get notified of your comment! 1st thing I would do is pull the dipstick and check fluid level and clarity! Is the fluid old, thin, burnt..especially look for any signs of burning via dark discoloration or smell as your issues sounds like it could hena fault within the torque converter. If fluid doesnt appear burnt and level is fine, I'd consider a fresh fluid and filter swap regardless as removing old containments/debris and adding fresh thick fluid is the number 1 way to resolve most shifting issues. The older the transmission the less pressure it can build up to allow shifting the more important fresh, thick fluid and a clean filter become! While I dont think the symptoms you describe match that of the TCC solenoid if none of the above helps get you closer to an answer..I'd take the van to a shop for diagnostic. Most shops will diagnose for free to minimum cost hoping you'll pay them to repair it and they'll make money on that end of things. That way you'll at least have a better understanding of what's wrong and what your options are. Not the best answer but hopefully it helps, good luck and Happy Wrenching!

@@minutemaintenance7385 Thanks for the reply. The fluid level is correct and is not burnt or off color. I discovered one more thing. When it won't shift from 5th into 6th I just need to put the car into neutral and shut the engine off. I restart the engine and put it back into drive and it always shifts into 6th gear and stays there. It's not the shifting into neutral that has an effect, it's the shutting the engine off and then on again. It would seem to indicate that the issue is some kind of signal to the transmission to shift that is wrong. The transmission works perfectly once it has shifted into 6th gear.

My 2012 dodge grand caravan just started not shifting from 2nd to 3rd under load on its own but if you put it in manual mode you can shifting it. Also it's not shifting into 6th gear on its own or in manual mode

I Personally didnt lose any oil, but oil does flow in this area. After reinstalling everything just check your transmission fluid levels! I made a follow up video about changing the Transmission fluid and filter AND how to make your own dipstick!

@@minutemaintenance7385 thanks

Hey Thanks for Watching the Video! It took Me About 2 hrs...But I Was Also filming. If I Had to Do the Project Again I'd Estimate 40min to 1 hr!

@@minutemaintenance7385 I need to change out entire solenoid pack assembly. How much longer or long would that be you think?

For the Whole Solenoid Pack I'd estimate another 45 min. There are some connections on the lower end that can be tricky to deal with! Take your time, make sure you're in a warm and comfortable garage..not a project you'll wanna do outside in the cold, makes ya more likely to rush and make a mistake. Good luck!