If you have trouble with it, you might want to loosen the other side of the sway bar as well

The ones I received were longer and did not line up. I’ll make a video about them at some point. It’s hard to find the OEM ones fully assembled

Sadly, but gladly, I have more videos on the way for new lifters and 4 cylinder mode delete coming soon. Im glad the videos are useful

How is the ride with those LuftMeister's?

Jim can you comment about the ride of the luftmasters

Jim please

If you replace only the strut it requires a spring compressor to disassemble the unit, so use great caution as it’s dangerous

The rears should be much easier. Just support the axle with a Jack to lightly compress them as you remove and install the bolts

Mine was okay, but that’s definitely a good thing to check after any front end work. I’ll add that to the video description

The Arnott worked the best for me www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VF88P43?&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=4c1a8f8cd496edc237ddddedfa7bbee7&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage i saw that a guy on another video like those as well. Thanks for the info

They are still doing well. I believe the new shocks just have a resistor telling the computer it’s all okay.

Mine was not on. The strut was greasy from oil apparently leaking, so I was replacing it for that reason. The part that came was not compatible, so I put the factory one back in

Did you solve this issue? If so? How?

I did bit with the Arnott ones

Trying to sound out what you are saying.. Predictive text might of got you 😂

I used Arnott struts on both side on the front.

I still need to do the rears. I’m just finishing new lifters and cam that went out

I had the same issue with a pair of aftermarket struts that did not fit (I also have a video on that). The ones that went right in were Arnott and I made an update video for them www.amazon.com/Arnott-Coil-Over-Eibach-Magneride-L-SK-3354/dp/B08VF88P43?crid=38JDH2IFYEA9K&keywords=Arnott+-+Fr+Coil-Over+Eibach+Strut+15-20+Cad+SUV%27s,Chev+Silver/SUV%27s,GM+Sierra/SUV%27s(K2xx)+w/Magneride-L/R+(SK-3354)&qid=1669272882&sprefix=arnott+-+fr+coil-over+eibach+strut+15-20+cad+suv%27s,chev+silver/suv%27s,gm+sierra/suv%27s+k2xx+w/magneride-l/r+sk-3354+,aps,290&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.08f69ac3-fd3d-4b88-bca2-8997e41410bb&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=6ce005c6cd213796132b9c237f1113d5&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bslnpMl20d3cY6M.html

The tires are very loud and warp easily from the bad suspension. Then it’s like rumble strips at low speeds. If you watch my lifters video it may persuade you to get something else other than the Yukon

Yeah, I am watching them and its breaking my heart, I just want to look away and act like I didnt see it, i have 77k on a 2015 and am about to look for that little filter you found, what a pain.

I did the arnott kit thanks to you, all the way around before putting these wheels on

Because the original video was so helpful, I figured I’d comment on 15’ Yukon aftermarket strut adventures. I first ordered “LUFT MEISTER 84176631 2 PCS Front Struts Shock Absorber w/Magnetic Assy with spring for 2015-2021 Cadillac Escalade Tahoe Suburban Silverado GMC Sierra 1500 Yukon (XL)” off Amazon. My factory units were leaking and riding harsh. It actually caused rapid tire wear on the inside driver side(that strut was in worse shape). My plan was to level the Yukon(XL) while I replaced the struts because I didn’t want to do the job 2x… my initial front/rear rake was -2.25” in the front. That should have equated to the SuspensionMAXX lower spacer and 3 shims to be level. With the new LUFT MEISTER struts and that setup was 1-1.25”HIGHER on the front. overall length on the new struts matched factory(I checked because of this video), so the spring rate must have been significantly higher. Pulled those off today, installed Arnott SK-3354s (they cost roughly double the LUFT MEISTERs )with just the lower strut spacer from SuspensionMAXX and I’m even on the driver side, and .25 front high on the passenger(both sides on the rear were the same fender height). Im assuming the front will settle a bit(probably just from the alignment), but if I need to, I can always open it back up and add a top shim. After the non-factory installed height on the LUFT MEISTER struts(which are going back to Amazon on Tuesday), I decided to wait to install the mangaride linkage plate until I measured the new front height and knew which setting to use(I had the maxx stack setup with the shims and multi position linkage plate). The Arnotts are not 😅 magnaride, but a traditional strut with a built in resistor. In 25ish miles of driving they feel alright. Definitely better than the roached stockers. You could probably get by with Bilstein 5100s (had em on my Tahoe and loved em) set for the lift you need and buy 3rd party resistors, but you should also adjust the linkage arms for the magnaride to keep the computer happy.

@@professorlloyd1789 How is your ride with the Arnotts? I installed them and the ride is very stiff.

@@brentschirm9695 initially(coming from the shot, rock-hard magnarides) they almost felt too soft. But after a few thousand miles, they do seem a bit stiff, but nowhere near as jarring as the shot magnarides. Sharp edge impacts(high speed compression) seems to be the issue and unfortunately, roads in my area of SoCal are garbage. Smooth roads and low speed compression movement feels pretty good. This is why magnaride “can” be good. Altering the viscosity of the dampening fluid in real time allows one size orifice to have varying transfer rates/different dampening. The problem for me is that it’s been so long since I’ve been in a new magnaride setup, my expectation for the suspension might be out of whack. I’ve lost my frame of reference. The other thing “might” be that my rears are shot and stiff, which is going to impact ride quality. They’re not leaking like the fronts were, but at their mileage(79k) they could be done. Overall Im “satisfied” with the Arnotts. If I keep the Yukon long enough for another set, I think I may grab a set of Bilstein 5100s and reuse the Arnott resistor(looks like you can unscrew it off the top of the strut). I had 5100s on my tahoe, and I generally liked them, though thats lots of miles ago, and who know’s how I’d rate them if I were driving them compared to the Arnotts today. One other thing to think about, is if you have any other loose/worn suspension components or oddly worn tires/bad alignment, ride quality can sometimes suffer.

If part of the seat still works it’s probably not a fuse. The heating element itself is probably bad

I assume it was a mistake that mine were too long. I’d purchase at your own risk knowing if it’s wrong you’ll lose $50 in shipping minimum. I can’t imagine they would not fix the issue

I used LuftMeister and the fit was good.

Unfortunately, it’s hard to find OEM parts with the spring installed, so I went with an aftermarket company and the strut did not line up properly and the strut was 2” too long, so I had to put the factory one back in.

💪🦵 An arm & a leg @ a dealer.💪🦵

In Houston at the dealership they just quoted me ~2300.00 to do both sides. I am working with another private mechanic and he's going to be able to do it for about 1/2 and still use OEM parts.

@@gregggreene791 ya...doing this job now in my shop . I watch videos on my smoke break Learn tips and tricks....where a tricky thing is...etc(aka, nit mess up your car messing up a connector or hidden bolt) . . Anyway 2300 is HIGH af . This is not a hard job 2 or 3 hours tops!!

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Did you ever find the correct part? i've now tried 3 different brands and spoke to the engineering team each time trying to solve this problem. So far Arnott, dorman and 1A auto have not fit.

To my knowledge, it only dampens magnetically but does not adjust height. The rear struts do have air bags and adjust height when a load is added

Correct. A shock absorber does just that, but a strut is when it also has support for the vehicle as part of the shock absorber The only thing I would check is if you have the magnaride suspension like my Denali has. If so you will need to delete it with a kit to run the bilstein’s if they don’t have magnaride. You’ll see the plug in the top of the absorber if it’s magnaride. I went with Arnott brand because they have the plug (but I believe it’s just a dummy sensor to tell magnaride it’s all good). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bslnpMl20d3cY6M.html

These are the Arnotts for the Denali. I spent $500 each so they are on sale. You have to get 2 www.amazon.com/Arnott-Coil-Over-Eibach-Magneride-L-SK-3354/dp/B08VF88P43?crid=38JDH2IFYEA9K&keywords=Arnott+-+Fr+Coil-Over+Eibach+Strut+15-20+Cad+SUV%27s,Chev+Silver/SUV%27s,GM+Sierra/SUV%27s(K2xx)+w/Magneride-L/R+(SK-3354)&qid=1669272882&sprefix=arnott+-+fr+coil-over+eibach+strut+15-20+cad+suv%27s,chev+silver/suv%27s,gm+sierra/suv%27s+k2xx+w/magneride-l/r+sk-3354+,aps,290&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.08f69ac3-fd3d-4b88-bca2-8997e41410bb&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=6ce005c6cd213796132b9c237f1113d5&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for the reply I will look more into it

The trans temp and ac condenser were around 50-60k. Everything else I fix in the playlist is from 50k-80k miles as I’ve owned it

Anything that looks worn and dry should be replaced, but be VERY careful replacing the spring. It will shoot off and should only be replaced with the proper tools and spring compressor

If you read the description it says it’s a replacement for Magneride, but I didn’t see anywhere where it actually says it’s magnetic operated. It may or may not be, but it works great. The are actually eibach springs which is cool

I would check alignment after any suspension work

They generally last about 50k miles

I’m using the Arnott. I tried another brand and they don’t fit. Oem is the shock absorber only so you have to take it in to have the spring removed and installed and oem is still $800 each for just the shock absorber. These Arnotts went right in and have been great www.amazon.com/Arnott-Coil-Over-Eibach-Magneride-L-SK-3354/dp/B08VF88P43?crid=38JDH2IFYEA9K&keywords=Arnott+-+Fr+Coil-Over+Eibach+Strut+15-20+Cad+SUV%27s,Chev+Silver/SUV%27s,GM+Sierra/SUV%27s(K2xx)+w/Magneride-L/R+(SK-3354)&qid=1669272882&sprefix=arnott+-+fr+coil-over+eibach+strut+15-20+cad+suv%27s,chev+silver/suv%27s,gm+sierra/suv%27s+k2xx+w/magneride-l/r+sk-3354+,aps,290&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.08f69ac3-fd3d-4b88-bca2-8997e41410bb&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=6ce005c6cd213796132b9c237f1113d5&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

No. The new struts that come with the plug will tell it everything is okay. Factory replacements with the plug won’t require anything either. It will only be a problem if you buy new struts that don’t have a plug

The ones that came for me were too big and didn’t fit. I re-installed the old ones. Did you compare them at all to the ones you took out?

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yea just did and there the same exact height.

Seems like lots of variation in the part. Did the swap yesterday. Same OAL as the stock strut, but the spring myst be stiffer because Im sitting an inch higher up front. Not the funnest job to have to redo in the driveway.

@@professorlloyd1789 I ended up putting the old springs on the new struts and it worked. It did suck having to take the struts apart 3 times and installation.

@@dan79transam65 I thought about doing that or just buying the strut and having a shop swap my factory stuff onto the new strut. But due to time constraints I need to resolve this today… ordered some Arnott SK-3354s from autozone and will try those. About a $500 upcharge, but I can get it today and I’ll have Arnott’s warranty if they start leaking early. They’re actually a traditional Eibach gas strut with a built in connector that keeps the computer happy. I’ll update as they may be another viable option(albeit at a higher price point.)

They are not available as the entire strut, so Arnott is a good replacement www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VF88P43?&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=4c1a8f8cd496edc237ddddedfa7bbee7&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

It’s always a good idea, but I just centered the strut as I tightened it down and the car still drives straight. If you’re found to pay for an alignment you may want to do the tie rods at the same time

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Great advice. The factory tie rods on my GM vehicle don’t have grease zerts.

Here it is amzn.to/45rHLt1

$484 per side is what they sell for now. I paid $500 per side. Install was me installing them so no labor but they are easy to install www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VF88P43?&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=4c1a8f8cd496edc237ddddedfa7bbee7&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

82k currently

Changing mine at 108000

Changing mine at 80K. I get they are mechanical parts and will break down.. nothing last forever but I just feels like they should last longer. 😞