Very nice and clear video. I want to bring back up the importance of torquing the Main bearing nut to 173 foot pounds while it is being spun by hand in the counter-clockwise direction. (The torque spec was commented on so long ago, I am concerned people will not find it now. My Ford Focus is 2003. I had a very annoying noise on the passenger side as result of someone else doing this job and apparently not knowing about the importance turning the drum in the counter-clockwise direction while getting to the full torque value. This bearing is a double-roller-style bearing. If you do not spin it while torquing down, what ends up happening is you drive these bearings of the rollers into the race and that causes a brinelling condition, which results in a noisy bearing. See KZfaq "Rear Drum and Bearing Replacement 2000-2008 Ford Focus". Your previous comment reply 6 years ago was: 2CarPros 6 years ago Yes, you are correct the rear axle nut does need to be torqued to 235 NM = 173.3 ft-lbs.

How come you're not starting the bleeding process from the furthest wheel from the master cylinder?

This video really helped me out, great work explaining everything up close.

Does not tell us socket size , WOW.

almost 10 years later and this video is still helpful great work!

I like your method of plugging/capping the brake line with the rubber cap to minimize how much brake fluid that you will spill. This minimizes the mess, and lets you take your time with the repair versus having to worry about draining out all the brake fluid as you work on the repair. (or make another trip to the parts store...etc.) I purchased a variety of these in the vacuum line section of my local auto parts store. They had a variety of sizes for very cheap. Thanks for the tip.

Well done video. I have been planning to change brake fluid and this is the only video I could find that showed where the bleeder screw was on the rear brakes. Thanks

Thanks for the guide. Came in handy in helping me replace the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders on a 1997 Ford Contour, same exact system. Brakes are awesome again!

If drum hard to remove , leave wheel loosely on with only 2 nuts and use wheel as a sort-of slide hammer. Lets you apply huge amount of force to get drum off vs prying on drum from behind. However if shoe is broken inside like mine was you WILL need to use a giant slide hammer to get drum off. Ask me how I know : )

In the UK we would put a plastic tube over the brake nipple and put it into a plastic bottle to catch the break fluid as we bleed the brake lines. Dangerous stuff to have running all over the place, and you can also get a cheap kit that allows you to do the job on your own. Just keep a good eye on the level in the fluid reservoir as it is very easy to be pumping away at the pedal and emptying the reservoir

Good video - thank you. It should be noted that the lower spring was put back on the opposite way it was on originally. Look at 2:32 vs at 7:33. Paul

Good quality production. It answer a question that was unique to me.

Thanks a lot. For the display. It will help me to carry on my mechanical engineering practicals.

Thank you for making this "simple "

Videos like this make me so jealous... I hate working on junk in the rust belt😊

Best tutorial i found to fix my brakes

Thanks for the video!

The factory service manual says: The wheel hub retaining nut can be re-used four times, mark the wheel hub retaining nut. First, tighten hub nut to 26lbs. then, rotate the brake drum 10 times in the opposite direction while tightening the wheel hub retaining nut to 173lbs. To prevent damage to the bearing.

Can u swap out to disc on the zx2 or swap out to the stuff to make it the same as a focus

Very nice video bro☺

Thank you. Back on the road.

Factory says to remove the four bolts holding the spindle on, rather than removing the center cap. Using a chisel may damage the cap.

nice job thanks 4 the video man just helping me

Great idea using the side-cutters, thanks!

Well i think that all looks easy enough. Im going to give it a blast.

Why does the Chilton manual say to remove the axle nut to remove the drum (as you did) while the Ford service manual says to remove the 4 bolts from behind the backing plate? The axle nut is of a layered design and only supposed to be removed four times before replacement.

You have a good cleaning solution for the brake pads

Very good. What torque wrench setting do you use for a axle bearing nut with a 22 x 1.5 mm thread, thread height 20.5mm? For the same type of bearing as that.

Very practic and helpful

im wondering what you recommend doing with the brake dust water ? asking for a friend

Good videos

good job. thank you for posting this

good video very informative.

Well made video

Thanks good video

Good video overall - main nut for rear drum needs to be torqued to 175 ft lb.s approx - over tighten will burn out bearing - under torquing will also cause major issues - you fail to mention this and its a pretty important bit of info :(

thank you for video

You forgot to add grease to the grease points before putting the brake shoes on again.

Thanks for a great video! I have a ford focus 2001 model where Im thinking the rear drum is grinding when breaking. Its not a very high sound, but sounds like metal vs metal. Do you think changing the brekshoe will help?

Wheel nut should be one-time use and slowed video to .25 to see socket is 1 and 1/8 inch diameter=28.575mm rounded up to 29mm is answer in metric. Good idea to apply some silicone sealer to mating area of dust cap , after cleaning all surfaces well , to keep water away from bearing. 173 ft/lbs , while turning drum back and forth to seat bearings.

Thanx for the video.

there is a rubber washer/gasket that came with the new wheel cylinder for my 2003 focus, you guys dont mention or seem to put one on? do i install it without? will it matter? and where does it go? its round and the piece that goes through the hole in the back-plate is oval?

Hi, nice video. Isn't the inner sleeve of the bearing suppose fit so tight that is stays on the axle? Regards

Brilliant. Reset auto-adjusters. Just what we needed. Thanks.

Good job

Tankes for your vedio

what size socket do I need?? using the garden wall as my handbrake these days...

an old flat blade screwdriver with a notch cut in it is handy for removing the springs

Disposable gloves, safety glasses, brake cleaner White lithium grease, for the dimples areas, before to put the new brakes Patience First bolt size 30mm Retainer clips, just hit it flat screwdriver and hammer, on the angule Brake line 11mm Plastic tubes for purge the brakes, (you dont need the caps) Wheel cylinder bolts size 8mm If your car has ABS like mine, remove the magnetic ring sensor, from your old drum In my case, was a PITA removing the drum, because was very stuck...

Very good and helpful video! Thanks, and Jesus loves you.

Always use a torque wrench on the hub nut... ALWAYS, if you sheer the threads you will have a crash, if repairing someone elses car you dont use the torque wrench and they crash you are liable in court. Secondly, only ever re use the hub nut 4 times. THIRDLY, never use sidecutters on brake cables only long nosed pliers.

👍🤔good jobs

What size is the line wrench needed?

What size socket for the wheel cylinder bolts?

Do you (can you) use the impact gun to tighten the main wheel nut, instead of using a torque wrench? Thanks. Great video. Well done.

very good

Thank you soooo much! I did it all by myself with just this video. Really appreciate it

you can buy an inexpensive one-man bleeder that has a check-ball in it to prevent air from going back in system when pedal is released , or...move seat back and wedge stick between pedal/seat after it is depressed fully for the last time. Then go tighten the bleed valve while pedal is to floor. (Scotty Kilmer Method) : ) I did my Jeep with it worked great. Preferably keep end of bleeder tube submersed in fluid.

I am envious of how little rust is on your backplate. I tried removing the 4 spindle bolts, but I broke my ratchet extension! I'll be taking off the rubber seal and then use heat. I know that it will ruin the temper which will weaken the steel, but I've yet to find a better way!

What size wrench do you need to disconnect the brake line from the weel cylinder rear brake ? ( Ford Focus ZTS 2000). THANKS

Has anyone heard of a VICE GRIP pliers? Its the absolute best tool for auto repairs when you need to hold something, and hold it tight. It makes the spring attachment a cinch. Why possibly compromise the spring with something used to cut metal??! I don't get it.

Is it the same when the car has ABS and when it is gone?

Where did you get the plugs to stop it from leaking fluid? What size were they? Great video!

Why do you not locked hub nut. wheel loosen may be.

Thankyou this video

my brake shoes are so new that I can't get my drum back again, I tried and it went try but now seems that iweel is with brake all the time, what might be wrong?

Thanks for the video, it really helped but got one question.... When bleeding the brakes, should the brake pedal stay down while locking the bleed nipple?

2005 model focus MK 2 de bununla aynı mı?

"Use appropriate size wrench..." how about actually saying what size that is? In this case, 8mm. I question the wisdom of using side cutters instead of pliers. You risk damaging the spring, and the e-brake cable. The brake line should be reattached before replacing the fastening screws, to avoid cross-threading.

So theirs no need to bleed the rear brakes after replacing the cylinder?

great

Don't forget to torque! The 30 mm nut is 130 ft•lbs and the lug nuts to wheel is 90-95 ft•lbs

Pretty sure you should torque the hub nut, although the torque is majorly high, something like 235NM and you have to use a 3/4 torque wrench which is huge. They are also very expensive, nearly £500 pound I think so my college tutor informs me as i almost dropped it haha

Good boss

Thanks boss

Just found out the what the cylinder is. My brake line has a pin hole and its closer to the cylinder so i cannot splice it. Thank you.

So to clean it, you can use water instead of brake cleaner?

good job thank

How do I know If I have to change rear brakes on my car?

Hi. It would be a great help if you state the nut sizes and show detail of the automatic adjuster which appears different from the common type. Thank you and 'thumbs up'

is this a Scotty Kilmer video?! wouldn't be this easy, removing the wheel cylinder on a 17-year-old vehicle in the rust belt! just did mine on a 2005 ford focus. was a nightmare.

Tnx sir

Good.

I notice you did not have to centralise the shoes to get the drum on . Was that luck

What are the necessary tools for this job

One question . How does it self adjust ,?

good

Simple for learners

I didnt knew they have drum brakes, i have 2 of them now and sold one few months ago but all had disc brakes

Thanks...

what about putting grease on all your contact points? why didnt you use brake cleaner? why didnt you get a new hardware kit? between the brake cleaner and new hardware is less than $20... why not do the brakes the right way so they dont make noise later?

remember guys that brake fluid is corrosive and any spillages etc, should be flushed away from the affected area with water.

That bottom spring is on wrong position sorry I got that problem befor brake shoes they are not going to last with a post to be less

what is the tourque

Always a good idea when bleeding to use a small tube from the bleed nipple into a jar, two reasons a) To stop any Unnecessary brake fluid spillage, and to prevent air being accidentally sucked back into system

3:40 you could depress the brake pedal and stop that fluid draining (with ABS)

thnx

No brake hose clamps???

Wow so easy...When are some folks from north country areas or Canada going to post to show how it's done after about 10 winters where tons per mile of salt are dumped on the roads every year..????

Let's not forget to torque that hub nut to 173ft lbs!!!