Turtle Roll Hint: when upside-down push the board forward over your head. The motion will naturally force the nose down (do to the inverted nose rocker). Then as the wave passes it will push the board gently back to its original position. 🙂

Paddling Out/Positioning Tip: surfing is about efficiency. ...Don't forget your board was built to "glide". So, let the board glide for one second between strokes. Over the course of a multi hour session you will save a lot of strokes and thus a lot of energy!

Good advice. When the Shore gets big, taking your time, using your experience, and finding the cracks are the most reliable methods for pushing a longboard through the walls of white water. Timing, observation, and patience. Experience will teach you what you need to know. Here are three more techniques to help. Scoot up to the front or the board and push the nose, and yourself (head down) into the water as deeply as you can while hooking your feet under the board. Or, jump off the board and grab the nose under one arm and submerge as best you can - easy and reliable. Lastly, you can duck dive a longboard - do a push up toward the nose while driving one rail deeper (on a slant) into the water and pushing the tail down with your feet. As the soup hits, drop onto and hug the board. It works. All will save real estate. Practicing these things is time well spent. Sometimes you have to bail - proximity to the impact zone and experience will help you sort out what is best when. Beginners - never paddle out behind another surfer. Fan out. Be safe.

It is so nice to come across this video. Today, a few hours ago, even having a few years of experience with that, I asked a guy on the beach: "how do you do to cross the waves?" And he told me about basic techniques. I told him yeah, I already know that, but I'm still getting exhausted sometimes. He said: well, maybe you are missing physical conditioning. I thought: Maybe... Watching this video feels like a game-changer and I can't wait to give it a try. Thank you and the YT algorithms that can read my mind hahaha Let me know when you come to Brazil! Aloha!

I can't begin to tell you how those few pointers completely addressed my issues in the past in my twenties. Boyfriends who surf never offered me any real pointers or advice in correcting my technique almost as if they didn't want me in the water and afraid I'd embarrass them by messing up a line up (I'm talking about Big Dume break in Malibu and 41st & Seashore in Newport Beach). I was pummeled on New Years Day 1997-98 when a southern swell created 10-12 12ft waves in 2 back to back sets when I was just learning. English surfer boyfriend who lives in Malibu, promised me he would not leave me before we paddled out. Of course he was MIA when he rode one in before the 2 sets and I didn't see him anywhere on the beach looking for me. After struggling to keep paddling out beyond the jetty and break of 1st set, duck diving on every wave and I kept count (which is why I can remember this moment with clarity...29 years later), my arms literally just stopped working and it was all I could do to keep them on the 10.6 Stewart by my side. By the 2nd set that came barreling in 5 minutes after 1st set, I was still too close to jetty and not yet beyond the break. I really thought wow..I'm probably going to drown today..on the first morning of the New Year, with my mom inside house with clear view of me, not even aware, which will haunt her forever when lifeguards drive up to try to resuscitate me. This went through my mind as I took one last look of the house and could not duck dive any more so the first wave just dumped me and I didn't have the strength to swim once I was under, but my legs were able to push me off the bottom which was shallow still 8-10ft deep. My board and leash were jerking from behind and I was hoping they would wash me into shore, but no. I was bobbing leashed and just kept trying to sink with every next wave (I know this sounds insane but there were 8-10 in the 2nd set like the 1st. Other surfers (10) out there between the jetties did not look remotely concerned or call out and ask me if I needed help. They were so focused on catching those waves and couldn't be bothered I guess. My arms were just floppy useless limbs as if disconnected from my shoulders. Finally a 10-12 yr old boy on a boogie board swam by me and I could barely find the energy to ask quietly for help...and he didn't really want to help either. But I said I need your boogie board please. I can't use my arms I don't know why. Please please let me use your board. He never said: oh are you ok? he just reluctantly pushed his board over to me and I said could you please unleash me and take my board back in or just let it go don't care. He unleashed me and I kind of kicked myself like I was paralyzed from the waist up onto part of his boogie board and I said I need you to push me into the next wave so I can get into shore. Ok? So he did and I rode in on the back of a 2ft wave and just laid on the sand like I was dead and the water lapped around me. I was too weak to crawl. I did not care how "lame" I looked. There I laid in my pink neoprene. I was too weak to even be mad at my bf. Finally he showed up and leaned down and said all British chummy "Hey where'd you go? I didn't see you so I ran in and got some water." He never apologized and he never understood how close to drowning I came that day. I was built like a ballerina, 125lbs 5'10. Normally a strong swimmer and water skier but not super developed upper body strength. Guys in SoCal(OC is the worst IMO) just assume anyone can surf if they are out there and there isn't any real buddy system or chivalry obviously. I spent a decade watching my stepbros who were well known surfers, and all their friends surf that spot and the wedge and not too many female surfers out there ever back then. The surfers would come by and use the spigot/hose connected to house all day long to wash their board, and strip off wetsuits and basically hose down shower and never once ask if ok or say thanks. Like 20 a day. Every day there is surf. Talk about white privilege. I became a volunteer Firefighter/EMT and RED CARD Type 2 Wildland FF five years later. I am a very strong swimmer now both 50meter & open water, and SUP in Santa Barbara & Ventura. Even Jack Johnson and his wife Kim were swimming with me in Montecito and they were so friendly and nice and we chatted way out while treading. SB is my favorite place on west coast. But I will never forget that first day of the year I nearly died. I took lessons in Maui (where my ohana and all my ancestors come from) and Big Island where the watermen of Hapuna Beach and Paia on Maui and Waimea, Makaha, Sunset Beach, Oahu - Waimea lifeguards are the knights of the water. There is no comparison between the watermen of Hawaii and their respect and genuine concern for the safety of the people than HB/NB/OC and I know SoCal lifeguards are great but the lifeguards in LACo,Ventura & SB County are a different breed.In a good way. LACoFD chief is one of my best friends and Im always telling him this. I am Native Hawai'ian want to say Mahalo Nui Loa for this video and pointers. Sorry for the very long post...I feel like I just had a therapy session on PTSD surfing ..lol... I've never even shared it before. I am headed to Oahu Kauai then Fiji Tonga and Vanuatu in April 2023 so I really hope I can improve and will keep watching your videos!! Aloha.

I have been surfing (shortboard) for exactly 40 years now. Your tips are solid and your video edits are really good too.

You can kind of duck dive a long board. As the wave approaches, do a push up to sink the nose while sort of side-scooping it to get it under the water. As you do this, jump off the side of the board and hold it under your arm in a kind of headlock position as the wave passes over you. You may get pushed back a bit, but you’ll be more likely to hold onto your board. It can be easy to lose your board when turning turtle.

Excellent advice! I finally learned to go out halfway, time the sets and go out during a lull. I use the channels; they are far from the peak, so it's safer as well because I'm less likely to get hit by another surfer. Doing these two things completely changed my surfing experience. Enjoy!

I can't tell you how great it is to find your channel. I've been literally trying to find exactly what your channel does. Thanks for sharing your journey. Great quality of filming too. Cheers 🙌🌊

Good paddling technique comes from well.. lots of paddling. Helps if you have some swim team experience.

Best video I've seen on paddling out a longboard! Well done and thank you mate! I surf a lot of beach breaks too and it's so important to find the rips. It's often easier to walk down the beach. paddle out in the rip, and then paddle back to the take-off zone than try to paddle straight out to the take-off zone.

Great video, I surf in Cornwall, England so same Atlantic to you but on the right! Nothing worse than a 20 minute battle to get out the back!

Totally awesome, thank you - love the "half way" point idea and wait for a good moment to join the line-up!

This is the most helpful longboard video ive ever watched thanks!

The sit back technique is the best for me. Sit on the inside and just wait for a lull, paddle out easy. Tip : if you get pushed backwards, release your board until your hands reach the tail, you won't get nailed.

There two other methods of pushing through a wave worth mentioning that I use after more than 20 years of surfing. First: I call the "nose dive" or "Ostrich-duck-dive" which is simply shuffling all the way up to the nose holding your breath and hugging the board with your legs and arms as the front of the board dips under the water and the tail goes into the air, this is a bit of a smasher but at least your still on top of the board after the wav passes and just have to shuffle your butt backwards to the center vs when you turtle you need to remount to board and keep it from getting torn from your hands as the wave passes over. This technique is often definitely not an option when surfing shalower breaks like in Hawaii. Second. I never named this technique before but ill call it the "human sea-anchor". This is only if you have a major set incoming and your about to get wreked or often times your already caught on the inside and have alread been hit by a wave. You get of the board or stay off the board, grab a hold your leash just a couple of inches past the tail so you you hand isn't crushed/smashed against the board, position yourself between the board and the wave with the board pointing into the beach and directly away from the wave so the positioning is beach-board-surfer-wave, then right before the wave hits dip under the water as deep as you possibly can and then pull on your leash with all your strength which thereby pulls your board under the water after you as much as is possible. Your timing is critical! You want the wave to hit just a millisecond before your board is about to float back to the surface. There are five important points on this technique 1. You want to hold on to your leash rather the just bailing your board because you don't want your surfboard to hit any other surfer in the water behind you, keep in mind leashes stretch so there can be more then 25 feet from the nose of the board to the anclet of the leash and that's not including any distance you might get dragged/pushed along as well. 2. You also want to hold on to the leash so the you don't get whiplash to your leg or ancle as the board is rocked by the wave. 3. Pulling the board under the water just a little will minimize how much force the wave has to pull on you board to dash it around. 4. DON'T EVER WRAP THE LEASH AROUND YOUR HAND with this technique if it gets ripd fromyour hand thats fine a you will still at least have minimized the initial impact and can always reset if there'sanother wave coming. 5. Making sure that your leash, the leash plug and leash cord are all in excellent condition on your board is THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO CHECK before ever surfing! Personally I only surf with a leash when the waves are bigger then shoulder high. I do have enough skill to hold onto my board in most any condition but it's as much of a courtesy to other surfer in the water as it is a convenience for myself.

bro i love the content! learning more about longboarding every time i watch your channel! if you are ever looking for something new or different i really suggest mid lengths. i have started dabbling in then myself and could not be more stoked on the performance and feel of the board. twin all the way!

Great video! ....when ever I choose to teach someone (which is not often), I insist they learn the basics of paddling, finding the center point and balance on the board (both laying and sitting) as well as spinning the board around BEFORE we hit the surf. Which means several trips to the bay. -- With these fundamentals understood the wave count goes way up!

Excellent longboard tips!

When SanO gets big......its a fight for sure. I used to laugh at chuck Norris's total gym, but I got one and mimicked the paddling movement for a workout. Damn!!! It worked. Cable workouts on a sled are just like paddling out. I dont surf anymore (tired of the cold) but I can say, if you want to make it past the slop to the outside waves? Do pully wheel workouts on a sled. I had a lot of fun surfing California when I was in shape. You always go!!!!

Pretty good accurate info for small to medium waves. I agree with the useless roll method .I surfed OB in SF for decades..if there is no rip or channels you paddle out as far as you can then ditch the board and SWIM..as soon as your past your second sandbar you get back on the board and paddle fast as you can.Generally big days at beach breaks have only a few rides. Because you get hammered.

Thank you this video is so helpful.

You explain things so well! Just found your channel and appreciate the quality of your content.... Speaking of 'channel,' another tip for beach breaks is knowing there are channels in between different wave breaks which can be easier to paddle out as opposed to paddling straight into the break.

Some great tips! Also if you paddling is not so good, or you are out of practice, small days are great for improving it. Just paddle 20-30 strokes parallel to shore, do a 180 like you are turning for a wave, then paddle 20-30 strokes the other way; rinse and repeat.

Another Turtle Roll tip is to grab the rail closer to the nose of your board, especially on bigger days, which helps keep the nose from lifting out of the water. You also don't have to pull down so hard doing it this way helping to conserve energy.

Awesome video, 3 keys are identifying rips, timing and sprint paddling. All the techniques you demonstrated here are great to punch through or get under the wave 's energy

Great idea about paddling out half way or thereabouts. Many times I will walk out as far as I can and stand there and wait (without getting pushed too far back), as I see the end or last of the large set coming I start to paddle like mad...

Great topic and video. As a new surfer I only wanted to focus on catching waves. But I found a greater overall improvement in my sessions once I gave paddling the attention it needed. Thanks and keep up the good work! 🤙🏄‍♂️

Oh man, I wish this video had come out a year ago. I learned all this the hard way! Good stuff, now I'm check out your other videos.

Great advice re: halfway point!!! Thx

I swear I wish you gave a workshop on teaching the trainer / instructors !

You can also duck dive a long board, If your have a 9'1" performance long board you can paddle towards the white water with speed and dip one rail just before the white water then follow though with your knee works well if you get the timing right.

Often in NJ and other beach breaks, there is a bit of a deeper area just inside of the main impact zone where you can hang and wait for a lull.

I like your halfway point advice got caught on the inside on friday just coudnt get out In hind sight i should of gone back to the beach and looked for a better way out rather than try and battle out

Try a slice duck dive. Bill Stewart demonstrates it.

i would loveee if you made a video with all your on-land practicing techniques and the reason we need to practice it!

Thank you I love u for sharing this !! Hugs man

Hey this is a great channel, loving the content. Have subscribed 👍😆

Good topic. Here are three tips that are helping me conserve energy while paddling out (from Nick Carroll): 1. Relax the neck. I found I was using a lot of energy holding my head way up. 2. Paddle really deeply. I make sure the top of my biceps rubs against the side of the board during the stroke. 3. (Best tip) Don't paddle fast, ever. Pulling your arm too fast through the water is less efficient. I've also worked on positioning myself better for catching waves, so I don't need to sprint.

Amazing video!

this video is great dude

Turtle Roll Hint too - I launch myself up and forward over the board to one side and kinda dive while pulling the board and then reappear post wave hit If timed, you can achieve it in one motion and paddle on

This is the most comprehensive breakdown of longboard paddle out techniques I've seen. Thanks!!

Look for the rip even if it’s hundred s of meter down from the wave. Know when to go or wait for the crunch. It’s totally cool to catch the wave in if it’s too much to get under or over

Great video as usual. You can also practice the duck dive. Even it is obsvious it’is easier with a short board but it works pretty well with a log too if well excecuted.

I’ve mastered my turtle rolls 🙌 made my life so much easier when the waves are bigger

Great video

Thanks

Where in nj is this awesome looking spot? I grew up in south jersey and just surf in san diego now... But love make a trip east to check out this break. And thank you for the fantastic instructional videos. Peace

Great tips man. I am new and yesterday was first time since my 2 lessons. It took me real quick to realize im dead if i try ti paddle over a set. I am in good shape and i was laying w my head on the board feeling my face flush going wait, if waves eventually stop maybe i should wait and more importantly not take the first one in the set. Is there a usual pattern for how many in a set or does this also change as time passes? Your medium point technique is gold. Ty

There's only one reason for me, I am 2 months short of turning 60, and I'm out of shape! Great video, thanks.

Does this apply to short boarders as well? These are good tips on how to maximize and maintain forward momentum. Thanks brother.

Great advice about the halfway point. If you pay attention to the waves as you're paddling out there always seems to be spots where they reform a bit and you can wait without losing ground. Never tried the climb-over, might give it a go, Cheers.

I made a poor decision last Saturday when I thought there would be time to go up the incoming wave while I was paddling back to the outside. The wave broke on top of me and banged my face on the board. Fortunately it was not bad, no stitches needed, no dizziness... but it hurt & bled, and I had to leave...

Hey i have Been surfing a 7ft foam board, i am 5 foot 7 inches and is pretty new to surfing, would a 6,4 shortboard be a choice? If you maybe have some board suggestions i would love to hear Them, but not too expensive🙏

lol looking at you in a park at the beach is painful! So cold! Come shred Ventura CA. We've got two guest rooms and if you can work remote (presuming you have a day job) we've got good Wifi. Tons of surf options all around and longboards galore for you to borrow. Only problem is nearly everything goes right here... but I'm sure you can deal!

It's funny these videos r pretty much what normally would be conversations between surfing buddies. I guess u r doing ur best. Have fun , aloha Edit, who's the cameraman?

Nice tips. I've not seen that push-up one before. Definitely going to try that.

Thanks man just found your channel two days ago and really liked the videos. Then I find this new one, exactly what I was needing atm. I ride a 7ft fun board and have been surfing 5 times in socal and these tips have definitely helped. I agree, don't like turtle roles too much haha.

any tips for someone who weighs 315 pounds and is 6 foot 1? i have a 9 foot 6 longboard.... when i managte to stand on the board it seems to sink... this is confusing to me as when i catch a wave and just kneel i catch it just fine

...grab the nose in the bigger stuff, angling downward. While the longer you pursue the pastime (actually a hobby, apols) - you get bigger like a great ape, and by year 5 probably can duckdive the longboard, such is your strength. I could duck-dive my longboard or look like I was almost diving the longboard at very many beaches. And many years ago I read about Australians standing on boards, sinking, submarines below the waterline, the ultimate ambition that was never reached during my lifetime, although I prayed to God somewhere out back in France.

Great video and really good/helpful comments too. For decades, I have been simply brute forcing my way through, like an idiot, and always got out no matter how big or short period swell. Nobody could out paddle me. Now, in my 7th decade of life my shoulder is cooked. Sad emoji. Like the video and comments say, paddle smarter, not harder...

If your getting hit by a big wave sometimes you need to ditch your board. Just make sure it wont hit somebody .

Hello, may I ask why my wrist hurts every time after hitting the wave？Do you have any suggestions to improve it？

What board and length are you using in this video? Thanks

the thing is this technics are for smaller not so powerfull waves, i just came back from ericeira surfing 2 meter waves with 2000 of force, and all this technics where not efficient, im still in my learning stage and after trying a few times holding on to my board, i realised just bailing was the best option (always looking there was no one behind me of course)

Great video I use a lot of the same techniques on the longboard. One other method i've found that works pretty well especially on bigger waves is ditching the board and diving under the wave, save your energy, don't fight the waves and paddle hard when there is a lull in the ocean.

I'm one of those who admire you idol, I hope I also have my own board😁

Turtle doesn’t lose distance if done correctly. If serious then just hold board on the nose only! right way up off the board to one side

Wonder why I surf with my brain but when I’m out there is like I have had a wipe out🤔 Well keep calm it’s fun!

You can also rotate 90% and slice through the wave perpendicular like and arrow.

Is your board name, chingona ? Cool

I think you forgot something on the paddling out. If you getting crushed by waves, always hang onto your board and know who is behind you. respect others or be ready to be punched in the face.

There is only ONE paddle out mistake that matters and these days it has turned some line-ups into a dangerous free-for-all! Here it is, pay very close attention kids. When paddling out the Cardinal Rule is to paddle around the bowl or surf zone PERIOD, end of story. So may kooks, newbies, spongers, shoulder hogs think they are entitled to simply barge directly into the path of the oncoming surfer whom is already up and riding, WRONG-WRONG-WRONG! You npaddle around the line up, into the area where the best set waves are breaking, then wait your frickin turn. Sometimes the sets will shift and put you into the path of an oncoming surfer. This is where you Man or Woman Up and take one on the head! NEVER head for the shouler under these circumstances, always paddle inside and duck dive. This is your Surfing 101 Lesson for the day, act accordingly...

Turtlerolls are dangerous in big surf don't do it. Saw a guy do a perfect roll, came up unconscious his head was smacked on the board. He was ok, he remembered going up and coming back down and bang it went black.

🤙

My God 15 Degrees 🥶. What thickness wetsuit are you wearing?

Slap kick the water hard getting there. Turtle role is a grab of the nose not the rails trust me brother. And know then if it flips you the pressure will only snap the board not your arms

You need to learn how to head to the beach with back foot back. Try to avoid cheaters turn as it will throw you off more often. Vertical pressure over tail and head to the beach. If up in the nose and can’t get back then hawihian pull out. See turning video advice for fundamentals

YNWA

Its better to just ditch the board and grab it from the base of the leash an pull it forward...

Turtle Roll Hint: when upside down use one of your feet to put a little pressure pushing up on the tail (not too much though) this helps keep the nose down and forces the wave over the board rather then getting under the nose.

Keep your feet out of the water by keeping your legs together when paddling. A basic mistake I see by novices.

Screw turtle role just throw the board

Do Planks everyday as long as you can , and do your burpees . 🦾😎