The Reason You May Not be Ready
12:10
The Inside of a Surfer's Brain
20:08
A Surfer's Live Commentary - RAW
28:39
Surfers hate that I do this...
5:20
Пікірлер
@wilhelmschroeder7345
@wilhelmschroeder7345 8 сағат бұрын
1. When you paddle out, keep paddling. I'll tell you when to stop once you're out of earshot.
@DeshawnFindley
@DeshawnFindley 16 сағат бұрын
Does that mustache cause drag for you? lol
@Bohoviajante
@Bohoviajante Күн бұрын
This was amazing.. thank you.. been going thru a break up and picked up doing surfing solo trips around the world 🙏💛🌊
@davidbailie329
@davidbailie329 Күн бұрын
Best instructional videos! So so helpful. I am trying to get better on a 8ft single fin rounded pin. Living on the west coast of Ireland. 😁
@SaltBushCity
@SaltBushCity Күн бұрын
Did you think about getting your hands further back? I've seen some guys do this longboard pop up with their hands almost back towards their hips. Then they just do the standard 2 footed jump but both feet land for the back. What do you reckon?
@michaelangelos5117
@michaelangelos5117 4 күн бұрын
I would rather be the surfer where I was too far forward on the board and the wave crashes on my head, then just missing wave after wave, and being on the back of the board. The reason being is that the surfer that is too far forward has courage and is going down the face of the wave with some guts where the person on the back of the board and missing wave after wave has fear. Anyway that's my input. Trolls reply below.
@emisurfchannel2280
@emisurfchannel2280 4 күн бұрын
position is everything, there are days that the waves make fun of you, too far to the right, too far to the left, too under, too out. every ride into the wall is a victory!
@MariaMoleEpic
@MariaMoleEpic 4 күн бұрын
I think it’s really hard to do a comparison when you are using two different size boards. Of course the bigger board will offer you more stability. I don’t have either of those boards however there is a notable size difference, correct?
@simontemplar1
@simontemplar1 5 күн бұрын
Nice video, and thanks, but none of this works on a foggy day at OB in SF. Sometimes the fog is so thick you will end up a mile down the beach from where you paddled out. It's a bitchin' freezing cold long walk back with a 10 ft board. The line up is the most important though on a clear day. Get your landmarks front and side. But remember, sand bars are always shifting. As for the hunting wave tip, well you might paddle to where you saw it breaking, and then you get there and it breaks back where you just paddled from. Wish I had a penny for every time that happened to me. Another very important thing for low level or beginners is if you become frustrated because you are not catching waves, paddle back to the beach and sit there watching for 5 mins and then paddle back out. Oh yeah, and never blame and curse the ocean...............it's YOUR fault no matter what happens out there.
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
haha yes! Iv'e surfed OB before.. quite a current! Fun wave tho. All very well said
@AnzaValley
@AnzaValley 5 күн бұрын
All fins are to thin. What how can that be? They are made to fit in a fin box. Not for maximum efficiency, It is simple hydrodynamics. A thin fin will cavitate much earlier than a thick fin. Cavitation causes the fin to lose it grip in the water. The proper ratio of in thickness to length is 1/8th inch of thickness for each inch if length. A 10inch long fin will be 1 1/4 inches thick at the base tapering up to the tip. This allows your board to ride up at the steep top of the wave with out the fin losing grip with the water. The other benefit is that because the fin work much better it can be place further forward from the tail making the board looser.
@Guycanha
@Guycanha 6 күн бұрын
Thanks for the great tips. Can't wait to get back in the water . . .
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
You got it! Go get it
@moritzlehmann9569
@moritzlehmann9569 6 күн бұрын
This was a very enjoyable episode. The interview added a great perspective and inspiration.
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Thanks so much!
@jenniferchristinebragg2054
@jenniferchristinebragg2054 7 күн бұрын
Leveled up at my local beach honolii after this. Thaaaaanks bro!
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Oh sick!! That's great to hear
@tuberworksjones
@tuberworksjones 7 күн бұрын
If you cant catch a wave on a longboard , you really need help
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Hey,,, you might have a point. Unless you're a beginner of course hehe
@marckruza5914
@marckruza5914 7 күн бұрын
On knee-waist high waves on a longboard, I have zero problem popping up, looking up and getting down the line. But on a funshape on a shoulder-head high waves, I look down at my board, sort-of pop up and "dance" on my toes to find the right spot, or just go straight on the whitewater. Any suggestions for improvement?
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Hmm that's a tough one. You're issue is confidence in your pop up I imagine. Since you don't feel confident, you look at your board. My biggest advice would be to drill the pop up at home as much as possible and when you take out the funshape, force yourself to not look down. Really laser focus on the wave face
@marckruza5914
@marckruza5914 22 сағат бұрын
@@LongboardSessions Thanks, I will
@kenreese51
@kenreese51 7 күн бұрын
Love your KZfaqs! Here's an idea that's never been covered by anyone. Pop ups and tips for a tall, long legged surfer like myself. Say 6'5". I'm always envious of your effortless pop ups. Try adding 10 to 12 " extensions to your tib fib bones! I'm not that good but love the knowledge that you give to others.
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
haha thanks so much! Well I'm on the other end of the spectrum at 5'4" so not so sure I can give you good advice on that one haha! Bigger board may help quite a bit.
@user-ff6hd7rh9k
@user-ff6hd7rh9k 9 күн бұрын
I surf waves this big and I’m 11
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
great job!!
@Hotwire_RCTrix
@Hotwire_RCTrix 9 күн бұрын
To draw a line you need 2 points. This is basic geometry. To find a point you need 2 lines. That's surveying. I'm not going to reveal anything else. 😉
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
yes! Especially if you wnat to be accurate
@skpearce68
@skpearce68 10 күн бұрын
Great tips. I'm 55 and had my first surf lesson last Sunday here in New Zealand. Hooked already.
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
oh that's awesome! You're in a great place for it as well
@skpearce68
@skpearce68 5 күн бұрын
Ten minutes from Hahei and Hot water beach. Coromandel peninsula.
@amahsue
@amahsue 10 күн бұрын
Love the mic out on the water!! How’d you do that??
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
thanks!! Slightly complicated haha, but basically I waterproofed the mic itself and through the recorder in a waterproof bag.
@amahsue
@amahsue 5 күн бұрын
@@LongboardSessions dang, props!
@andreazerbini9313
@andreazerbini9313 10 күн бұрын
to correctly marking a position you should take two references at different distances and keep them aligned. This is what they teach at navigation school. it's extremely precise, I use it both for x and y axes and always place me right where I want to be. One point, expecially far from the shore can be confusing
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
That's great advice! Way more precise for sure
@rabd77
@rabd77 11 күн бұрын
Great little surf video. Thanks for your pointers. 🏄‍♂️🤙🤙
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
You got it!! thanks
@spinachwiththeleaf1300
@spinachwiththeleaf1300 11 күн бұрын
Love your helpful videos. Quick question: are you Mocca Joe?
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Thanks!! Haha nope!
@gatesurfer
@gatesurfer 12 күн бұрын
Has Morgan been sent this?
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Highly doubt it haha
@HowardWimshurst
@HowardWimshurst 12 күн бұрын
dude, this video is EXTREMELY good
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Thanks so much Howard!
@geoffhenson792
@geoffhenson792 12 күн бұрын
I went out this morning after six months of not surfing and I was terrible. I had put on weight, my arms were sore and my general aerobic fitness poor. I was exhausted after ten minutes. I didn't even catch a wave as my paddling power didn't exist. Waves were a perfect shape 2 to 3 feet.. Funny your video popped up. As I've watched this before, it reminded me to not give up, start eating better foods and work on my core strengths (push ups sits ups and stretching. Thank you again for this inspiring clip. Cheers
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Wow great to hear! Keep at it and you'll get right back into it. 6 months is a long time.. inactivity creeps up fast. Especially as we age hehe
@LordPhoenix140
@LordPhoenix140 12 күн бұрын
How do you like the Crooked wetsuit? Is it warmer than the same thickness other wetsuit?
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Loving em so far! Hmm warmer.. hard to compare that, but I do like certain things about them. So far, the seems are slightly more durable which I appreciate because I destroy my suits lol. I also like how the hood fits on the 5/4
@LordPhoenix140
@LordPhoenix140 5 күн бұрын
@@LongboardSessions gotcha. I'm just debating on thickness. The Yamamoto rubber is allegedly one thickness warmer than normal neoprene, Isurus sells their 3/3 for the same water temp as you'd normally want a 4/3 and their 2/2 in place of a normal 3/2, but I don't want to go too small. I surf Southern NC and have a Hyperflex 4/3, though now it's leaking at the seams a bit since they're only glued and not glued & taped, and most people here use 3/2 most of the winter. I'm having trouble deciding which to buy for next winter.
@thevitorialima
@thevitorialima 13 күн бұрын
How many ft is your board? 😊
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
9'6"
@julierussell4316
@julierussell4316 13 күн бұрын
Me... subbed
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
nice!
@quartzdeplorable1125
@quartzdeplorable1125 13 күн бұрын
@9:05 Contrails!!!
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
haha!
@BrolyRajang
@BrolyRajang 14 күн бұрын
😂😂👍🐒
@DanielRodriguez-ps9fq
@DanielRodriguez-ps9fq 14 күн бұрын
ur, the first guy I've heard saying this but man are u right. I've been doing it for years, and ur right it's a window on what u can't see yet....
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Yes! Helps so much
@leochalland9546
@leochalland9546 14 күн бұрын
although I surf a fish, your video's still teach me so much! I think fihses and longboards are the same spirit just in a different body-- the approach is the same.
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Great to hear! I actually want to get a slight shorter board for certain days. Like a mid length. I think you're right, similar spirit and they both help each other out
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 14 күн бұрын
Hey everyone! Unfortunately it seems Solofins has gone out of business. I'm hearing from many people who said they ordered fins, but have not received them. However, I am hearing that people are eventually getting their fins. Super annoying. I'm going to continue to try and reach out to the owner and see If I can take over the manufacturing of this fin. I'll keep everyone updated on this pinned comment.
@iraklispanagiotidis2827
@iraklispanagiotidis2827 14 күн бұрын
Great channel! What is the size of your board?
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Thanks!! Mine is a 9'6"
@jonathandelapina1262
@jonathandelapina1262 14 күн бұрын
Sounds great for where you are. Cant find any breaks that empty where I live. Looks cold though, we don’t wear wetsuits
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Well that's one of the perks over here, pretty easy to find empty waves. But oh the cold.... haha
@matthewhoang1367
@matthewhoang1367 15 күн бұрын
WTH! I pre ordered this fin with solofins and after multiple attempts at contacting them still nothing… their website (from your description) is now gone… so disappointed
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 14 күн бұрын
Yep, they're out of business and this has happened to multiple people. However, People seem to eventually be getting their fins. Keep me updated on the status of this. Sorry for the trouble
@matthewhoang1367
@matthewhoang1367 11 күн бұрын
@@LongboardSessions all good man! Im glad to hear some are getting their fins i was keen to try it :)
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
Any luck yet!
@andry744
@andry744 15 күн бұрын
Brilliant, mic in the water can be the next big trend for surf coaches 😂 really great work man!
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
haha maybe!! Thanks
@tondog9070
@tondog9070 16 күн бұрын
Great video! Shredding is much the same way in that if you relax & feel the mountain it's usually a great run. When fighting or overly attacking the mountain it usually not as smooth. You don't want to take to many hard falls (catching an edge) snowboarding as it's way worse then getting dumped off ur board.
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
for real, catching an edge on a snowboard is horrible lol. Face plant city
@stuartholme4457
@stuartholme4457 16 күн бұрын
Ocean Grove?!? No way!!!
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 5 күн бұрын
No, but close !
@alexandrerdneev9725
@alexandrerdneev9725 16 күн бұрын
Check it out socal surfing, great spots for longboarding, tourmaline, San onofre and Church. It’s time dude 🤙🏼😎
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 16 күн бұрын
Yea love those places! I'll be there in a few weeks
@50TillIDie
@50TillIDie 17 күн бұрын
Well done Liam, nice little laugh at the end!
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 16 күн бұрын
haha ! I'll relay the message
@davidgodoy826
@davidgodoy826 17 күн бұрын
Wave position is about knowledge and being in paddle shape
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 16 күн бұрын
Nothing beats time in the water!
@benpop9365
@benpop9365 17 күн бұрын
The TRIME line 😊 surf is all about fun , never forget thx à lot for all thé laugh 😂😂😂
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 16 күн бұрын
Absolutley! You got it
@huertalapaz8359
@huertalapaz8359 18 күн бұрын
lots of chem trails
@paulcorrigan7999
@paulcorrigan7999 18 күн бұрын
You probably think it's weird but I don't even surf, yet l watch these videos just because they're put together so well!
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 16 күн бұрын
Oh that's awesome!! Might be time to start surfing... hehe
@richardreimer
@richardreimer 18 күн бұрын
Another thing is what I call the "Indicator", the foam on the water shows where the wave is breaking. 🏄
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 16 күн бұрын
Oh yes!
@billytuchscher
@billytuchscher 13 күн бұрын
I use that a lot here on the reefs off San Diego. The foam will actually for a triangular shape (pointy end at the peak and wide end toward the shore). Stay just on the outside edge of the foam. That's were the last wave(s) broke, and highly likely where the next one will roll through.
@RobMcGarr
@RobMcGarr 18 күн бұрын
Would love a video on the normal pop-up and how you make that look so easy @0:28
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 18 күн бұрын
Thats coming soon! Before the end of this year I imagine. I guess that's not so soon lol but it's coming
@bosshossmotorcycle385bhpwi9
@bosshossmotorcycle385bhpwi9 18 күн бұрын
Great tips for a brand new UK longboarder. Many thanks.
@LongboardSessions
@LongboardSessions 18 күн бұрын
Awesome, you got it!