Mannnn we never stop. Finding time to do some videos like this is the hard part.

My pleasure man. Iv got a heap of videos from different cars, it’s just sitting down to edit it into something half reasonable to watch. That’s the hard part.

Cheers mate, there’s more to tuning then just pushing engine past their limits. We have to bring some mechanical sympathy to the table to ensure it stays reliable for the customer.

She rips man, that’s for sure.

Thanks mate, defianelty not my strong point, but having a go to help share some more info with people who are interested.

Will try to mate, next ute we have come in I’ll do one. Try find my draggy too, so we can get some more accurate readings from the road test.

Depending how much you can do yourself, ball park, 10-15k.

If you chip doesn’t allow for boost to be increased, this will be your problem. When increasing fuel, we need to increase air volume. This is usually done by increasing boost pressure. On stock turbo, I’d be aiming for 18psi on a FTE. This vehicle was set up for towing and touring, hence it having 5 map select. The owner can choose which tune works best for his driving conditions.

@@boostedsagas884 thanks for your reply, much appreciated, that's the problem then, it stops at 15 psi on the gauge. Looks like a unichip and a turbo upgrade, as I love my fte hundy.

We wouldn’t suggest making this power through the 5 Speed auto, generally we won’t even put +30’s on them. Anything past 5-600nm and those gearboxes won’t hold, even with a valve body upgrade. We suggest a valve body upgrade before we even fit a unichip to a stock vehicle with the 5 speed autos.

Not at all, the highest HP FTE we ever did went 420+hp with 520,000K on the clock. And when it drove in, it made 380Hp and had been making that for over 250,000k at 40psi of boost. As long as it’s healthy, cooling system is fresh, and well maintained, they can keep on kicking for a very long time.

This one did yes. Some do, some don’t. Bigger the injector usually the worse it is. It’s the rev hang (smooth shift) feature in the ecu. It’s trying to hold some rpm up while the cars rolling to make gear shifts smoother, the problem is the ecu can’t adjust quickly enough for the big injectors. So they can get a rough hunting kind of idle as you slow down or just take off.

The A750’s require a HD valve body before even starting, then we suggest staying under 600-650nm. Specific tuning is required to help them survive, plus it’s never great to let them shift foot flat, or tow on big tunes.

No good at all. For the A750’s we try stay at or under 600nm. Even with a valve body upgrade. In fact, we prefer not to tune them at all with out a valve body upgrade.

This is factory fte engine. In touched and unopened besides the mods we fit in this video.

@@boostedsagas884 ok thanks, i should have picked up on that. do you know if the 1hdft conrods and piston are the same as the 1hd fte. early model turbo motors had big end issues(i,m not sure which ones). we have a 1hdft and we want get similar power out of it. thanks

@@horseshoe182 the 1HDT, had the big end bearings issues. The 1HDFT, and FTE can both make great power and remain reliable. Only difference is the FTE can have multiple tunes. This drastically improves reliability as it doesn’t have to be on full send all the time. Where as the mechanical pump of the FT, once it’s tuned, you can simply flick a switch in the cab to change the tune.

@@boostedsagas884 flick a switch, i wonder how that works. yanmar developed the 1hdft , from 315hp to 420hp for a marine applications. i want to build a marine version for myself. as cummins are too heavy. any links to further education, gurus and/or diesel bench dyno testers would be appreciated. i,m in sydney , thanks

@@horseshoe182 sorry I meant you CANT flick a switch in the cab and swap tunes like you can with the FTE. The difference from the automotive to the marine world is, the marine world has unlimited supply of cold water for W2A aftercooler and engine cooling system. Which means engines can generally be pushed a lot harder in the marine world, then the automotive scene.

Hey mate, with a proper economy tune using the unichip people have seen around 13-16L/100km. Pretty efficient but depends on the driver too

I’ve run a 1HDFTE for 16 years and around 400,000 kms in a 100 series landcruiser, I get approx 12 -14 litres per 100 kms, and around 16-20 litres per hundred towing a tandem trailer with around 2-2.5 tonne load. Mine is stock, apart from a rebuilt injector pump. They are pretty reliable motors if you service them regular and don’t thrash the crap out of them. They get not very good mileage in town running. Great on the open road. Even thought the modern diesels produce more power these days, they are too complicated for the long run.

Our own personal 100 series sees 12-13’s on average duties. And around 17’s towing 2-3T this all depends on speeds and the driver.

Not bad

The 4 speeds are pretty stout. We have done a few in the low 300hp and 800nm range. They require a valve body, and extra trans cooling. Beyond that, if your doing a lot of heavy towing, I’d run on a lower tune to protect the box, when the cars empty, you can use your 300hp/800nm tunes no worries. Weight/load and big torque numbers combine with heat is what kills gearbox’S.

On a FTE, we usually see around 200hp and 500nm. Depending on the vehicles history.

More turbo, more fuel, add some forged rods and arp head studs and away you go. Stock fuel pump generally max out around 400-500hp though.

North of 15k

Really comes down to the driver more then anything. Though we have seen 420hp on our dyno through the manual. And I believe that’s still in the car with no issues.

This job start to finish, was north of 15K

North of 15k

North or 15k

North of 15k