I did, see comment below, had to go back a put it in off camera right after i got the crank in. Glad I caught it when i did.

Yeah putting it back in was a nightmare! Especially not pulling the transmission with it. Getting them to mate back together sucked

@@mechanicalmayhem7958if it’s Locked you don’t gotta pull the whole trans just pull the torque converter with the engine like I did

I forgot to film it and had to put them in, yeah initial forgot then and they were still on my table. Video of the Durango running on channel.

Actually if I remember correctly yes, I had a little bit of left and right movement but no up and down movement. However everything is quiet. I will respond again next time a hemi comes through my bosses shop.

If you have up and down play make sure your exhaust push rods and intake push rods are not mixed up

@@mechanicalmayhem7958 yes sir you are correct. I’ve gotten the same answer from other techs as well. When the hydraulic lifters fill up with oil it takes up any lash. Thank you for your response

@@jkjwf No problem good luck with the build!

go to partsology.com they have everything you need. They have kits but I just bought each part individually. I have not yet uploaded but my Durango now runs. has been running great for 4 months so parts seem to be good quality.

by the way my parts were from the brand DNJ. I believe that is partsology's supplier.

@@mechanicalmayhem7958 thanks bro. i do have to replace the piston rod, think i can get away with not balancing the rotating assembley?

@@firehulk4998 Not entirely sure, I'm still learning myself honestly. I did not balance mine. No issues here. However I only replaced the pistons. My rods were re used. watch my most recent upload, I posted it today. It shows how my engine is running.

It does matter, I like to stagger by 180 degrees. Doesn’t have to be exact just make sure the opening’s on each ring are far apart from each other. If they are all the same you risk compression issues or uneven wear in the cylinders.

@@mechanicalmayhem7958 There is in fact a piston ring orientation spec for the Hemi.

Not exactly. Go to Partsology.com, type in the year make and model, and it will give you the one you need. Everything i used was made by the brand DNJ. I know some years for the hemi’s are a bit different due to the new mds system they added in 2006.

As can be seen in the video, the rear main seal is held in place with five 8 millimeters bolts. Per the dodge service manual these “rear seal retaining bolts” require 11 foots pounds of torque. Hope this helps.

For what part of the block are you referring too? Different parts require different torque.

@@mechanicalmayhem7958 a guy at my job told me all over the block gotta make sure the right torque and that it just don't go bk together so easily

@@marcuscalvin6688 correct there are torque specs for every part of the motor. Main caps, rod caps, heads, oil pan, timing chain, even the accessories. Look up the “5.7 hemi torque specs” that should tell you everything in foot pounds.

@@marcuscalvin6688 f01.justanswer.com/dcraig1000/c762f373-4d74-4a67-a9c9-6c7e0d01b0d6_eee1.pdf This sheet should tell you everything you need to know. Hope this helps!

Yes, like mentioned in other comments in this comment section, noticed I forgot it before putting oil pan on. The bearings are in the engine and everything is ok.

I used the Oem sizes. 6.242 in length and the bearing bore is 2.125". Hope this helps.

*rebuild

Sorry I didn’t film the install for those. Forgot to get a clip of it. I had actually forgotten to put them in and saw them sitting on the floor after I had gotten the crank all torqued down. Had to take it back off to put them in 🤣

@@mechanicalmayhem7958 im glad u caught the mistake in time. Happens to the best of us lol

Around $700-800 range without machine work. Used DNJ parts.

Yes, Still does. Check the channel.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/othgitWopqqqmGg.htmlsi=RamO2BV3EHdnbtUX here it is running, from 3:50 until the end of the video will show you all you need to see, includes idle, 3 month update, a 0-60 pull, and standard driving.

They are fine.

Ok sounds good, couldn’t catch a grove with my nail so I figured it was good but definitely keep a closer eye on stuff like that. Did a 4age engine build out of an ae86 after learning some at a machine shop this year and it was definitely a way better build! More thought was put into that engine for sure haha. I will try to post a video on that motor soon.

Yup, been using that on my most recent engine builds after this Hemi. Definitely stays in place better than oil

you may be right, I’m 17, I’m not a professional, I’m not even a mechanic. I just have a passion for cars and I’m trying to learn and show what i did for advice. Ive got 5k miles on the motor and its still going strong for me. Everyone has to start somewhere, its the people that try to help rather than tear down that make a difference. If interested you can check out the next hemi video on my channel, it shows the car running.

You forgot your thrust washers

@@mechanicalmayhem7958 bro. You're good. Dont have to explain to strangers on the internet

@@Realofficialdee thanks man

When I was a 17yo kid - I did the same thing with VW bug engines. Awesome job, you are building it for yourself so don’t get discouraged when someone says you did it wrong. You got more value out of this project then a class in technical college. Run that engine till it blows then build another one - you will only get more skill as you get your hands dirty!

I work at a machine shop now building motors the correct way, learn more and more everyday from my boss. Its my car and my motor, I will do what I want.

Is your day now complete now that you made an asshole comment for no reason?

I’d love to see a jeffreybarton8242 Hemi rebuild video sometime.