Juan thank you for the lesson I appreciate everything your teaching. God bless you.

U went from a fresh man to a hard working sweaty man lol ... it must be hot in there! I can’t imagine summer for you Good tips!

Buena clase cómo siempre Juan!! Muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos!! 👏🏻👍🏻

Thank you. From Senegal in Africa. You're a blessing.

Really great tips. Thanks for making these videos

Thanks for all the tips!

Hey jefe, thx for sharing all this on your vídeos. Very nice wsy yo explain everything, i wish you the very best and again i thank you for being such a nice persona!

Thanks for the tips dude!

JUAN, all very good info, thank you

Thank you, great tips.

I like your video about screen printing friend Its very important info👍👍👍

Thank you, great tips

great tips!

Very informative!

Thank you so much for you important vdo. need more.

Thank You For this lovely Video. I really liked it. I find some more info at Moment Screen Printing about this screen Printing techniques.

thank you my friend.

Thanks Juan

Thank you. I counted 9 tips!

Good stuff sir . :)

1st view first comment , great tips thanks 👍✔

I like your tips thanks

Much appreciated tips. Thank you!! Great job!

“A lot of you like to push, I like to pull!” 🙌🏽

I see you using the PMI DST... It is awesome...

Love the new intro!

Good information

exelente, tus videos me inspiran mucho

Good information, Thanks, now go have a cold "beverage".

🔥🔥🔥

Thanks for the tips. I love the liberty graphic at the start and end of the video. Did you do it yourself or did you have someone else do it?

Shimmer / metallic inks also need to be at a higher temp for certain dryers because the shiny reflective surface reflects ir heat away, so you want to have the temp higher . I think the gas dryer won't have the same problem.

Good tips keep them coming. 👍👍👍👍 I also print T shirts. I print from home. The only thing holding me back is to have people buy my shirts i print. Im trying to make it into a business. How can i get notice. I have printed for 3 years for a printing company. Then i said to my self i can do this for me and my family a business. Got any tips to help me out

Is there a press you recommend for new screen printers? I have a 1 color 1 station from Ranar right now, but that was just for practice. I want to get at least a 6x4 , but it’s hard to find a good one that won’t break the bank

What pallet adhesive is good for screen printing?

Thank you so much for the tips sir ^^ what printer do you use to print your acetate? I dont know if someone already ask this ^^ Im learning a lot from your videos

My friend, what size shirts do you start to make a Bigger graphic for? Example, if i am making shirts for a company and the shirts range in size from small to 3xl, i dont want the same graphic size on all the sizes //// CORRECT?

I love the red on the shirt you're wearing, did you laid a white underbase or plain straight red? Thx for the tips

Hey man u replied to my comment om tshirt chick livestream...please provide me a list of things i need for ome or 2 station press including curing options not ready to purchase conveyer dryer thanks bro

Just found your channel, I hope you don't mind my question where are you located? Love your videos

Nice 5 tips make of screen printing friend👍👍👍 What that is a water ink basis🤔🤔🤔

Is that water-based ink or plastisol? also which brand is that Silver metallic ink you're using?

T-shirt printing station. Who is the manufacturer?

As a screen printer by trade for 6 years (not very long, I know) I'll provide any input to his tips as I watch the video: 1) Yes. Screen mesh is very important. Metallic ink with flakes need a very low mesh screen. Reason being that the flakes will get stuck in the mesh and make it a very tedious job to clear the screen every few prints during the run. Water-based inks which may have a different viscosity, resembling almost a paint-like flow need a higher mesh or else it will bleed out and smudge. 2) Ink flow is important as well. I'd say that its a "touch & feel" that you only gain through practice, as he touched on by saying its difficult for beginners. Although I print on an automatic and he's using a manual press, curable reducer with say, no more than 10% by weight (which will keep the color without affecting the print) will get you a runnier ink when you need it. Heat is another factor. The warmer the ink is, the better it will print. Be careful with getting too hot or it will dry in the screen and make your run a headache. 3) Flat shirts in line vertically makes it easier because you can almost get into a robotic-like state when loading them. The easier it is to load them, the more you can focus on the other aspects of the print. Where I disagree with these tips is on the loading method. You don't NEED the shirts to be facing down, and you don't NEED to load them at the wrist. Again, this comes with practice but loading the shirt is a personal thing and every printer will load them differently. Try a few different ways and stick to what feels most comfortable. As I've ran thousands of shirts on a single run, comfort is the most important factor to loading. Speed will come later. Get comfortable first. Also, not all shirts come with a "cheat line" as we call it, where there's a pre-determined fold down the middle. This line won't always be correct either. You can use it in the beginning but I'd recommend trusting yourself and how you load the shirt before you trust the cheat line as you get more comfortable. 4) Another slight disagreement. Grab as much ink as you need. The more pressure you apply, the less ink will be used although a high pressure can result in the shirt bleeding through the fabric. This, again, is a "touch & feel" thing I touched on earlier. The more you print and practice, the more you will understand how much ink is required to be used. The angle he uses is also very aggressive. You could use a more leaning angle with less pressure and achieve the same print without any bleeding or defects. It can result in a (slightly) thicker print depending on your ink selection but it will save your hands a lot of pain in the long run and no customers will know the difference anyway. It will not affect the quality of the shirt. 5) Unloading from the back is fine if the pallet is too sticky from any adhesive you've used. Eventually though, as it becomes less sticky, unloading from the front is fine as long as you keep the shirt close to the pallet to avoid any "snapping" which may cause the shirt to flap into itself causing the uncured ink to touch an unprinted surface of the fabric. Though folding in the sleeves is fine, it also depends on the dryer you use. There are top-drying and bottom-drying machines. Top-drying, as name implies, dries from the top down. Bottom-drying does the reverse. If your drying machine dries from the bottom up, then folding in the sleeves may cause your ink to cure incomplete if the temperature and speed of the dryer is not set correctly. TL;DR: He provides solid tips and his method may work for him, but do not take them as gospel as there are a few caveats that need to be addressed based on what you're trying to accomplish.

Hi! What is the proper mesh for paper bag? Thank you.

español porfavor!!

What’s the cheapest screen printing equipment site?

HOLA DONDE COMPRAS LAS CAMISAS

how big is that pallet Juan? and how tall is the design?

Hola Juan, I’m wondering if your willing to create template that I can purchase?

Hey Juan good afternoon I want to ask you a question why do I need for me to get the t-shirts cheap or do I need to register how does that work how much does that cost I heard that you need a tax ID number I have that what else do I need can you please help me

Show off lol