One more upgrade I would highly recommend is when your 2 x 6’s get bad and need to replace them. Do not put 2x6 lumber back on your trailer. Instead get waterproof plywood and put it on your trailer. It much stronger and more stable. It will not twist or split nor swell or shrink like lumber does! It will outlast your 2x6 lumber by literally decades longer! Waterproof plywood I bought actually had plastic laminate glued on the face of the plywood and another type material glued to the back side to protect the plywood more. I bought 3/4” plywood and since my deck was larger then 4’x8’, I spliced the next piece of plywood on the trailer to fill the width with the plywood. After I got the first layer of plywood down with the plastic laminate facing down under the trailer. I off set the next layer of plywood so the seams weren’t in the same area and this time second layer the plastic laminate was face up. After both your plywood layers are down it’s the same 1 1/2” thick just like your original 2x6 lumber would be! Gives you a really super nice floor and you can slide a shovel across the surface if you’re hauling dirt or other materials like wood chips! Unless you really abuse this flooring, it’s going to stay smooth and you’ll never have any kind of splinters to deal with plywood will only swell or shrink 1/16” of a inch, unlike lumber that can swell or shrink up to a 1/4” of a inch and that’s why you need the gap between your lumber boards to give clearance between swelling boards! Won’t have those issues with plywood! I actually put regular plywood on a trailer some 30 years ago and finished it with exterior finish. It held up 20 years before I ever had to replace it. The waterproof plywood will last much longer, especially with the plastic Laminate on the surface of the plywood! Once you try it, you’ll never go back to using 2x6 lumber again!

#1 Wire up some LED work lights with a switch off your 7 pin. #2 Use Rustoleum Garage Floor Epoxy and throw some sand over the drying paint to add floor grip and protect the decking. #3 Add some vertical canes with an Amber LED at the top so you know where the back of your trailer is when backing at night time. #3 Spare Tire Mount on driver side of trailer in front of the fender. #4 Maybe a spare spring set in case you overload it and break the spring. #5 Bottle Jack in the Toolbox.

Thanks this was very helpful. I have small trailer and those items you mentioned are need on my trialer. Thanks

The DOT reflective tape was a good idea. Love the stake pocket D-rings. I need to put that on MY list. I like the storage box idea also. Good install.

Spring loaded tailgate lift by Gorilla Lift is a real back saver for 200.00 and fits virtually any utility trailer.

18” chain extenders with grab hooks are handy . Pear shape rings for 2” wire hook end ratchet straps . 3” delta rings for 2” flat hook end ratchet straps . Brophy portable 2” ratchet strap winches . Mount a few stake pockets in center of the trailer onto a crossmember . Rub rails and stale pockets front and rear of trailer bed . A few suggestions that work well . 12/22

First upgrade to consider if you have a landscape trailer with a 6 foot rear drop gate,, A spring assist lift such as a Gorilla Lift, etc... Once installed, you WILL curse dealing with any trailer that does not have one. They are usually less than $200 and your back will forever thank you!!!

Add work lights. The bed lights and tractor lights aren't always the best. I used a set of bed lights mounted under my trailer rails.

I dont like those d rings that go in the stake pockets. Just weld or bolt d rings directly to the trailer, or use the stake pockets with chains as they were intended. If you put chain through pocket and hook on top then they wont fall off even if loose. You should always secure the load in a way that even if the securement loosens up it will not become unhooked on either end.

Heck... if I knew you were in the market for a harbor fright tongue box I could have worked a great deal with you for a nearly free unit. They do a respectable job of keeping what's inside out of the rain if the trailer is sitting still, but put it in motion on the interstate and you'll find that the absence of lid gaskets make a great path for water into the box!!

Where to start? Trailer jack take it apart (rusts here so prevent it) and put Grease on the threads, that will prevent/extend the time when it doesn't work. The carriage bolts are likely less then gr 5 I would have got used NF gr 8 3/8" bolts. Yes it is sheer which is being worked against but still. The home build trailer I bought I added 3/8"X3"flat bar made slots into the tube to weld both sides of the tube with some 1/2" some 5'8" eye bolt for ankerage points. Depending on what was going to be done at that place. Never had a problem. The big one is (wiring !!!!!!!!! ) as those poor grade blue wire splices will corrode and fail. At the wrong time. I ran mine into two boxes on the frame which I put on for splices. Splicing was solder/ RTV heat shrinks was my design from 40 yrs ago. Never had a bad one yet. The round 4 wire or 7 wire main wire is WELL Worth it.That flat stuff is JUNK! Had it fail within a yr and a half cracked/shorted!!!!!!!!!! FYI LED lights are designed to destroy your eyes. go learn about it My plug in cracks every number of years remove it full it with more Vaseline no bad connections for those years, oh solder the ends of the wires good to go! The trailer was designed to pivot at the center for loading , which was too light of material so I used 3/8" flat bar drilled the hole for pivot and four holes into the sides of the tube two for 1/4X20"s for securing the flat bar to the sides the other two for welding to the tube. Much better design.

How about putting wood sealer/water proofer on your deck. That would be an excellent upgrade!

I like that you can put tail gate down

Good ideas

Good ideas for sure for the lighter trailers. Buts lets get into the real issues on reliability and safe hauling. First, electric over hydraulic brakes are a must, electric brakes suck. We have to replace electric brakes every year. Tires: put those 16 inch 10 plys on your daughter's pickup, go get some 14 ply trailer tires. We use 17.5 lo pro, same bolt pattern more deck clearance and better load capacity. Suspension: when you replace the springs, just get heavier springs. Better to do it now than on the side of the interstate. Get a pintle ring if you're anything over 6 ton. Use a separate ground wire for all you're lighs. Order your trailer hot dipped galvanized, powder coats suck on trailers. They don't get the metal hot enough. We could talk about cross members and grease vs oil bath but that gets into a heavier class of trailer. Last, dont forget to ugrade youre drivers license if youre over 18000 lb. Oh, here's the payoff, dexter axle electric brakes aren't designed to stop the vehicle, only slow it down when the breakaway is pulled. Get the letter from Dexter.

I had a similar keying system for a hitch a long time ago, I left it in my truck all the time cause I hauled all the time. The locking system eventually got corrosion inside of it and I had to cut it off, just an FYI.

Always make sure u keep the Jack all the way up, u could get hung up on a dip otherwise

Good job man

The holes are lower on the D ring because they’re meant for the pin to go below the pocket. Most pocket do not have a hole for a pin. That’s y it is not setting level for you

I upgraded my jack to an electric jack and it’s been the best by far

The Weigh-Safe is great. I can get 10-15% on the tongue with it easily. Once I setup one vehicle on the trailer, I paint the wheel position so I can get it right every time. Though expensive, makes towing safer and well worth it.

Guess I'm just old fashioned but I've had several straps break, give-way, snap & or fray, I will stick with my chains & binders & they don't get all sloppy & slimy & stretch when wet.

What type of brakes do ya have on the trailer? I am saving to get caliper brakes out on . That’s one of my planned upgrades along with adding stale pockets & more lights to include a bright backup bar on the trailer . A lot of times I arrive at night so that would make it easier to see where I wanna go . Good video Senor.

Would have liked to have seen how the tool box was fastened to the trailer but a great video

The first one should be a bull dog hitch imo

Wow it popped up in my feed thing is I’m building a wooden floor to my 1/10 RC trailer I know it’s on a small scale 🤔

What brand jack and/or where did you buy it? Also, what brand are the taillights and/or where did you buy them?

A good fix for your straps rubbing against something is to stop by your local Fire Dept and see if they have a 2 1/2 fire hose that's scrap. If so get one and cut pieces of it in various lengths and slide your straps through the fire hose. The hose outside will take the beating and your straps will stay nice by rubbing against the smooth inside of the hose.

How is spare mounted? Ramp storage?

what brand is you spare tire carrier....my trailer rails are angle iron like yours and i cant find attachment online?

🤘🏽🤘🏽

how about a video: 5 best downgrades for a trailer

I’d love to buy a trailer like that one day and turn it into an over lander camper with walls and roof.

What brand is the trailer jack

What about a wench

Your safety brake cable is connected in a dangerous way, that renders it useless. It should be free from all obstructions from the trailer to your truck, so if your tongue and safety chains fail the trailer applies it the brakes to avoid your trailer from continuing on at the speed it was doing.

No backup lights? No backup alarm that speaks "attention please this vehicle is backing up" that always got everybody's attention and they are pretty cheap:-)

ALWAYS USE CHAINS TO SECURE EQUIPMENT

Or..... Don't buy an el-cheapo angle iron trailers. Buy only pipe rail trailers and then you have continuous tie down points all the way around.

He's not very edumacated when it comes vocabularies . . . . 🤣

less inane bable