Same!

for tests most places want an uphill root, welds ran uphill are structurally stronger, when you’re in the field after the test it’s different, downhill root is faster

Right on im still learning till this day

Ok I got confused from this.. The pipeliner I bought my SA200 from been in the business 35 years. Said he has never had to weld higher than 2nd gear. I welded pipe coupons in his shop and he instructed me to always keep the rod at 90 degrees. What gives ? Less amps = less chance of too big a keyhole? I'm just an amateur, not my day job.

Thanks !

Thanks for the feedback 🙏🏼

im glad you enjoyed it ill have more tutorials on the way with way better quality and audio

If you have a good gap you can just drag make sure you're breaking down both walls. Only need to step if you keyhole

appreciate the support!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad I can help brother !

🙏🏼 thanks

When doing downhill pipe you’ve got a very tight gap with ussually little to no land. So if the bevel can hold the puddle with out keyholing very big you don’t have to wip in the root. On 6010 uphill roots if you get your heat and landing on your bevel perfect you can drag the rod uphill and get the same results. If you’ve got a bigger root opening or small amount of land on a fit up you can turn your amps down and wip and pause your root to get the same result. Its all puddle malipulation/ control. Watch the puddle and keyhole and you’ll get it!

Yeah man that’s crazy! Did not expect that at all

thanks man!

Thanks!

thannks

H-town!!

@@TheWeldLab thats good Im glad I will subscribe to your Chanel I will message you later on I have a welding company will be needing good welders like you .great work again .

Cool hit me up!

If your running beads drag it unless the key hole opens up then you wanna step in when you downhill . Only time I really whip the bead in is if my doing uphill

I have a 6010/7018 5g on here

A little advice from a seasoned welder of 25 years . Big rod big mess small rod small mess when you're a beginner .

ขอบคุณ

yes but you need to have the rite gap and landing

@@TheWeldLab cool thank you, I will try it out nice vids just subscribed the other day keep it up

Thanks man

If you have a remote dragging the rod is easier and faster. Most of the time you don’t, so you learn how to weld with one heat all the way out. Even with 6010bead and Lohi out I’ll keep the same amperage. Uphill you’ll want to whip that bead in to help avoid trapped slag or internal undercut on the root. Also depends on weld procedure your working under. Api1104 will let all kinds of trash welds where b31 will not. All depends on the job. I personally prefer to whip 5p in on the root to insure a good reinforcement on the inside with no undercut.

ya esta las voy a empezar a poner

Con la imagen lo entiendo

Yes I do and a lil pressure with the heat it will keyhole...are you using the correct rods ?

@@TheWeldLab yep 5p+ but I was always told that Lincoln u can apply alot of pressure but miller u cannot. I haven't welded pipe in 8 years and its giving me alot more hell to relearn downhill than I thought it would

Not sure which Miller u r using but I have used both on the Miller PipePro make sure ur heat is up like a Lincoln but also turn ur dig/arc force up more n it will help penatrate breaking walls u should see ur small key hole, hope that helps

@@1pipepro actually im using a hobart champion 225 basically a miller but no arc force or anything fancy. It welds just like a miller. Tomorrow ill just get real aggressive with it and run my root around 85 to 90 amps and really push on the rod. I bought the machine because it was cheap and same thing as my buddys trailblazer. Not looking to pipeline but chase rigs like he does so maybe I can relearn pipe again. Its been 8 years so its startin all over for me

Run a nickel land and a dime gap. Run your rod 90deg. To pipe . Run a 5/32. 5p pluss rod. Run enought heat to move forward at a ready pace, yes you will have a key hole just keep going if the key hole is not filling in turn down in incriminates of 5 on the box. I learned this a long time ago . I will tell you that for a reference two welders on a 30 inch pipeline tie in crew can put a bead in the pipe in 20 min. Or less. So keep practicing. Good luck.

332 gap 1/8 rod , strike it like you would a match on heat effected zone . If you get stuck pull the stinger off the rod and grab another cause you probably knocked off the flux on the end of the rod and that's why you keep sticking .

One of the best investments I have ever made

Hell yea bro thanks I’m gonna order me one now

Yeah bro you’ll love it

Never seen no one run 6010 down hill on pipe!

@@leeebtire5107 you haven't ever pipeline welded then

@@drewjackson1127 your right I stick to 30/100

about 1/16 for any pipe 6" and smaller and 3/32 for 8"and above is my preference

How hot are you running and what machine are you using?

@@TheWeldLab i run it around 75 and 85 but I watch one of your videos where u were helping one ofur friends , and I was using the same rods 😆 ill try using some good ones later! unas linconl or something

@@horaciosalinas8145 puro Lincoln bro es la mejor ...youll feel and see the difference

@@TheWeldLab i was using the blue can I think the name is bhroner or brohner something like that I sae ur compa using them and your were saying they were not good so i guess it was that