I'm convinced you don't need a fancy, expensive tool to do this job. They do make it easier when you have the remover, and something to press it in.

Thank you for watching and subscribing! I hope to have more videos out soon.

Very good advice! I cranked it over by hand with the glow plugs and injectors out.... It got the fluid out of the cylinders but pushed some back into the cups. I also strongly recommend putting the valve cover back on. I just covered the holes with rags and ended up spraying my work bench!! 🤣 had to edit that out of the video. 😏

Thanks for watching! I'm glad you like it.

Yeah, that works too! Thanks for watching!

​@@mygarage. Just costs "8 sense" to pull cups .. lol 😂 ... I DO thread cut all the way to the bottom, and then back off 1/2 turn... because it is possible to try to pull a cracked cup (and a lot of them Crack just above the first bevel at the weak point) and have the cup separate during the pull... Bottoming out, seals the penny to the bottom of the cup further protecting the hole from shavings falling on in. And reinstalling rule#1 ... CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN ...

@@usmcmustang2972 that is a good point!

Thank you for watching and your comment. I try to make it educational and entertaining!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you! I hope it was helpful.

Thank you!

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy my videos. Yes you can switch split shot over to single shot injectors, I would suggest getting a power hungry Hydra to maximize your performance.

I am going to be replacing it, there is a lot of RTV gooped up around it, and its leaking. I want to get the pan off and reaseal it right. Stay tuned, it's going to be in a video soon! Thank you for your comment and support. The next video should be out soon! I made a decision to get some up grades. This should get better as it goes.

That's a good question. I was using a new brass brush, much softer bristles than the steel wire ones if they do fall into the cylinder.

Once you get the cup out, there isn't much left in the bore. I used a cylindrical wire brush and sprayed it down with brake parts cleaner. Nothing big goes into the cylinder.

You don't have to pull the cup out to do injectors. I would recommend installing the injectors, removing the glow plugs and crank the engine over.... It's going to make a big mess, but you will need to get the oil and fuel out of the cylinder or else you will hydro-lock it.

Yeah, that's a good idea too! I used the masking tape because it's cheap and I had it right there. Thanks for watching!

Jeff, thank you for watching and subscribing! The engine stand is rated at 1,000 pounds. I got it at summit racing.

Thank ya sir! God Bless and take care...

No problem!

I would drain the coolant, and the engine oil, pull the glow plugs out, and replace the injector cups. Then install the injectors, then roll the engine over by hand to "pump" the Coolant and oil out of the cylinders, re install the glow plugs, add oil and coolant, and fire it off.

@@mygarage. Can’t tell you how much this helps! I appreciate your commitment

No problem! Anytime I can offer my advice.

Usually a crack in the injector cup will put fuel into the coolant. Oil and fuel mix has to be within the injector, or oring, possibly the fuel pump failed and it's leaking from the pump pushrod.

If you get the injector cup out without getting coolant, oil and fuel in the cylinder, there isn't much debris to worry about. I used a cylindrical wire brush on a slow speed drill. Basically like a shot gun barrel brush. Not really any debris was in the bore. Sprayed with a small amount of brake clean, and blew it out with compressed air.

@@mygarage. Dang, I found a good article with dummy proof photos so I figured it out. I have the injector bore brush but my loc tite was rock hard lol. So far since posting the comment I have 4 cylinders done. I have had to use a long pick and a modified shop vac hose to get the debris out. I really appreciate your video it is helping me.

Oh yeah, the sleeve compound can be a little hard. A pic and a vacuum should work out pretty well. I'm glad you like my videos. Good luck with your build.

Yeah, its normal to have it fill with fuel, and oil. You HAVE to drain the coolant too or else all that will go into the cylinder also. Having fluid go into a cylinder isn't a big deal, you just need to crank the engine over with the injector or glow plug out so you don't hydro lock it.

@@jeremybarbieri5150 thank you for responding so soon. It kinda gave me a scare when I saw it fill up but I'm happy to hear it's normal. Thank you for the help. Great video!

@@jeremybarbieri5150 I hydrolocked mine today I'm lucky it still runs after in hydro locking it but I have a feeling I damaged it

I assume it locked when you were cranking it over? How did you correct it?

This an engine stand that was purchased from Summit Racing. I found an even better one at Jegs. It has the same crank on it to roll the engine, but its rated for 1,500 pounds. The one I used is only rated for 1,000.

Sorry. I don't have any links. A lot of the parts were bought from riffraff.com, it performance.com, and 1023 diesel.

I am not sure. The Engine serial number was a 98 production. So obviously was not original to the donor truck (it was a 97) the donor has 324k on the clock, but the engine looked relatively clean inside, and had even compression between 375psi and 400psi (Measured cold @ 6,000 ft elevation) I know it wasn't the correct way of checking compression, I was only looking for good even numbers.

Well if it's a diesel and it doesn't have any emissions equipment... Carbon is normal. If it's gas powered, carbon at the tip would mean it waaaaaaaay too rich.

@@mygarage. same 7.3 swapped new injectors some where they sit in the cup were carbon some were not

I recommend you only use the locate brand or permanent brand retaining compond. It's a big job to have to do again if it leaks.

Is the seme brand only difference is 271 threadlocker

271 is for threaded bolts. It will not work.