This is the best way to do 7.3 cups and injectors I've ever tried.... Thanks Clint using the shop vac to get the diesel and oil out of the supply rails is absolutely ingenious.... I had never done injector cups before, I followed your instructions to the letter and the priming technique you teach works better than anything else I've ever tried to do with any other vehicle I've worked on. Thanks for your help and time making these videos.

This is one of the best video mechanics around here. He’s very specific, the images and diagrams are super helpful. He’s got it down to every single detail. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and experience

So glad I found your videos, I’ve had a time with my 7.3 dump truck these last few months and now when having issues I come straight here. Thank you for posting quality, informative, and Correct videos to follow! Thank you sir!

Followed your instructions. Took me 4 cranks to get her running. Thanks for your video.

Love all the backround videos! But again its great to see exactly what you are talking about, makes doing things much easier! Thanks for all the work you do to help us out!

Hi Clint You are very good as always with all the cool ideas , thank you .

If only all 7.3/T444E owners had a knowledgeable guy like yourself within reasonable distance from them. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Thank you so much for sharing you expertise. You years of knowledge are much appreciated. You’re my go to guy for 7.3 info!

Really appreciate your videos they are helping me understand how to work on my 2002 f350 7.3 working on rebuilding a little at a time !

Hi Clint, just thanking you for your video. Very informative and straight to the point. I've watch it numerous times as I did not want to make any mistakes. Of course I over did everything you said, especially the Shop Vac and Paper towels. But I must say, it paid off as my truck started on the 2nd crank. Thanks again!!!

Mr Clint is the master mechanic for these 7.3!!!

Love your videos. I totally appreciate that you talk to us like we are five. Because I sure as heck don't know what I am doing. And this drives the point home rather well.

Liked the video soon as it started knew it was going to be some good knowledge as always !

Funny, informative, tutorial. Very good. Getting better every episode. I like the Ferris Bueller fairwell, lol. Anyway, I'd surely appreciate an episode covering your experience in whether or not to change cups, valve cover gaskets, harnesses, at what intervals or circumstances; and also stock vs 160/30 vs 180 etc and other drivable options, along w the results and consequences of each size and style. Im sure you've repaired plenty of mistakes I'd like to hear about before repeating them myself. Thanks for reading! (Late 99 7.3)

Wow, Perfect Timing Clint! I'm getting ready to do that just this weak. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks Clint, Im just about to embark on this project here in Aussie. I have worked on these types of systems with old CAT equipment . I did my apprenticeship back in 70's on International Harvester engines and agricultural equipment so have wielded the odd crescent or 2 . Thanks for your video's both yourself and Clay from Riffraff have helped me immensely to keep my 2005 Aussie spec 250 Super Duty on the road . Kindest regards from Australia.

Huge help!!! Thank you!

Hey Custom Works, Ive got a 97 F350, 7.3, OBS. w/175.000 miles on its clock currently. I bought it w/125,000 on it back in 2017. It's a beauty of an XLT/Crew-cab & runs fantastic ! I store it every Winter. Just lately, it started "starting hard" only when the ambient temps dropped. Over time this hard-start issue is getting worse. What I mean by that is, if the outside temp drops to even 70-degrees, it starts really hard. If its nice & toasty warm out, it'll start right up. So I'm replacing the "Original" Glow-plugs (The valve covers have NEVER been removed until now!) So, I figured while I'm there, I should replace all the Injector O-rings along w/new (German-made) OEM glow-plugs. Now, before I saw your video, I removed the driver side valve-cover & removed #4 injector because it stands to receive the most oil/fuel. But what I didn't realize was HOW FAST the oil/fuel would dump down into the #4 cylinder so quickly ! Holy-shit, that's FAST. I had my shop-vac at the ready, but stumbled to grab it just long enough for all the GD oil to dump down into the #4 cylinder before I could get the end of the shop-vac extension hose into the injector hole ! AAAARRRRGGGHHHH !!! So, #4 cyl is full of oil/fuel ! Goddamn it. I'm going to be much quicker going forward by removing the rest of the driver side injectors & stuffing w/wads of Paper-towel. And then the passenger sides as well. How would you suggest I continue forward. Should I just continue removing the remaining driver-side injectors & paper-towel each hole. Jump to the passenger side, get #3 up TDC & catch the oil/fuel this time w/my quick-draw (Clint Eastwood style) shop-vac BEFORE it dumps down into Cyl #3, and continue forward w/the rest of the injectors by stuffing w/paper-towels to all the remaining injector holes. Then replace all the injectors w/all their new O-rings, TQ them all down to spec. Install both valve-covers w/one bolt fastening them down & turn the engine over 4-5X's to clear most of the oil/fuel that accidentally dumped down into Cyl #4, then remove valve-covers & install all the new glow-plugs, reinstall wiring harness connections to all Injectors & glow-plugs, and then replace all the valve covers back ON & start the truck !?? Your reply would be quite welcome ! Thanks for adding some Common-sense to the Intelligent side of the KZfaq "How-to" community that NEEDS all the help it can get because of ALL the Wanna-be's & KZfaq idiots who dont have any common-sense, and only want to be a KZfaq actor and/or a star ! Ha ! Ha ! These types are only out for fame & fortune, rather than sharing intelligence & helping others ! (That's because they don't have ANY common-sense, or the intelligence it takes to share & help others !) Its the ones who think they are Legends in their own minds, who spread all the driveway & backyard garbage & hacker methods. So they share all their Ignorance, which only spreads the WRONG WAY of doing things. Especially on the mechanical side of life. We NEED to spread MORE INTELLIGENCE, NOT IGNORANCE !

I want to thank you so much. You have been so much help to me.

Great video great info thank you

Luv your videos and thank you

Thank you! Without a doubt, you know these engines, congratulations!!! Last year I purchased a 1999 super duty F-350 with a bad transmission. 356,000 miles. Drive the truck over 2000 miles and it was time to replace the transmission. Now I have an excellent transmission Ford reman. Replaced at a Ford dealer. But now I got an endless string of engine problems. Replaced all injectors at a diesel engine shop with good reviews. I changed them because it started to smoke white smoke. From a little to a lit all the time. They said now it is the turbo. I replaced it with a brand new turbo. No change. Runs powerful, strong and smooth, but white smog. So now the technician is saying the cylinder No. 7 has no compression and rings are sized 😵‍💫🤔🥺😮‍💨 WAF...

Thanks Yes I learned something.

Do you have a video about the injector hold down bolts? I've heard horror stories about the hold down coming loose and being broken beacuse of torque wrench inaccuracy issues. I appreciate your time and help with this information.

awesome advice

The reason most motors (electric ) overheat is due to high current flow. If you try to crank any engine for excessive time, the voltage from your batteries drops, the load on the starter motor stays the same, so the current has to increase to do the same amount of work. This is what causes a starter to overheat quicker. "Regular" jumper cables or the cables on a battery charger are too small to supply the high levels of current needed. If you can get another high output alternator on a running vehicle hooked up to vehicle you are trying to crank, and use large enough jumper cables ( I make my own) you will find you can crank longer, with less heat generated and save a lot of starters. Go down to your local welding supply company and buy 20- 30 feet of 1/0 or even 2/0 cable. Get the type of clamps you want (they usually have those as well). LUG the cables and bolt them to your clamps. They will be heavy as *ell but you can start anything with them.

I have just recently found you Clint. I very much appreciate you knowledge on 7.3’s. I have a specific question about a dead 7.3 is there a way to ask this question?

I thought you were SPAM but I am happy to withdraw that... I love your videos and thank you so much for the effort you've put forth to help...

Question: I removed the two injectors closest to the firewall had them tested and they passed. Went to re install and did not torque them down to spec . Now truck is white smoking . To fix this I want to try your method but SHOULD I DO YOUR PROCEDURE TO ALL 8 INJECTORS OR JUST THE TWO CLOSEST TO THE FIREWALL?

Required watching. Thanks

...I'm thinking of modifying an old glow plug to hollow it out and hooking up an air line to it (regulated low pressure) to blow debris outward while pulling the injector out until I can get the vacuum in place ...what say you...bobthewelder

Hi I have a question. I’m not sure if I have a cracked fuel cup and want to pressure test the cooling system. Can I do that first then return to the start of this process?

I don't have to do this but i want to do this now.

My 99 7.3 is stuck (will not turn over even with socket on the crank pulley bolt) after sitting 5 yrs. I thought it was hydro locked pulled glow plugs. Still stuck. Now soaking pistons with marvel mystic oil to see if rings are rusted. Oil had a little water but I think it’s from condensation, which leads me to think the rings could have rust from condensation. The trans did have problems but shafts turn (it’s 4x4) Any thoughts on this engine being stuck?

Right on

I think you should there's one trick that I learned that works good as you take those top brass bolts there's four on each side I take the one at the back and and I will vacuum pump and vacuum all the oil after high pressure rails and that's pretty good of it all cuz you pull those injectors out at all is going to rain or your method into the paper towel but it seemed to work very good I took off those Allen keys the first time all it is make a mess on the ground but those top rails work a lot better you get all that oil out that's my two cents now make sure also sometime and get videos do not buy cheap o rings I bought cheap o rings and I noticed the orange one for the high pressure oil was soft softer than first I thought my old ones were just hard because they were dried or whatever but no they're supposed to be hard not solved because one of them tore or burst through and I consume I spend like a $1,000 in oil because I had to run that sucker and one of those cut through burst through whatever and it was pumping so much oil it was running off 100% oil no diesel my fuel gauge actually went backwards towards full I wonder if my gauge was out so I filled up the tank with diesel and now my diesel was spewing out the cap house as I was driving it got worse and worse to where I had to use 3 gallons of 15 minutes to get home I just shut it off and rent a U-Haul to deliver my crawfish but lesson learned $1,000 mistakes OEM especially on the o-rings

Awesome video as always sir. But i dont understand why do you want to remove the top injector retaining bolt on #4?

There is still a load on the starter with glow plugs our cause they are tiny holes and the pist builds compression before all air can evacuate the cyls. Best way is to prime the oil system with shop air.

Thanks for your videos. You are a wealth of information. Im getting ready do the injectors on my truck. Just a quick question. Does each cylinder need to be TDC when removing the injector or just 3 and 4? Wasn't quite sure. Thanks again.

Where can I get the internal o-ring kit for a 7.3 liter injectors

I need to remove my cylinder head on only one side to correct a broken bolt. How do you avoid the long start if you're only working on one side?

You mentioned a wire that we could use to crank over the engine by jumping to the battery. Which side do I jump power to? Thank you for the informative videos.

Are there any more specific videos or instructions for the OBS method of what you referred to as the “lone wolf” button?

Sir do you see any issues with installing a boost fooler for a st 1 kc turbo.

expert

Just got my 7.3. What do you recommend I should do to it

Hey clint i have a question. When you put the wire hagner or whatever you use in the glow plug hole do you just push it all the way down and that brings the piston to TDC?

What state are you located, I’m about to start some work on my truck and may need your help

Okay....didn't see this video until after I did it incorrectly. So what now? Turns over and over than starts but idles very rough and smokes. Let it idle like that for about 5mins. And just let it rest for the day. Next day started after a few fails then once started let it idle for 20min. Idles better but still rough. When I put in to drive engine dies....what should I do now? Worked well prior to changing injectors. New icp, cps, ipr and low pressure oil pump just prior to injector change. Thanks, James

Damn good starter to last that long

can you crank for 5 from key? dont see wire at all

Great video just one question why do you put the number four cylinder and then the other one on the other bank up to top dead center? And do you keep putting each cylinder to top dead center as you do each injector?

What/where are you turning to rotate the crankshaft during the procedure to get #4 to TDC.

So just to clarify the wire that you put in the glow plug hole to find top dead center do I only do that on cylinder 3 and 4 only or for each cylinder I do just want to clarify that

You never mentioned anything about removing the two bolts to drain the oil reservoir. Should I do that when replacing the injector o rings. Thanks In advance.

ok i've been watching your video's,99 7.3 white smoke smells like charcoal lighter fluid assuming its unburnt fuel i've replaced ipr ,icp, glow plug's and valve cover gaskets and pigtails ,now i'm moving to injectors and two of them lost a a bunch of diesel from them ,and i mean it poured out ,is that normal or was it my issue, thanks for the video's great material for repairs

I just did mine the way you did a few weeks ago. I have exesive smoke on startup yes it's fuel. Think I may have not got the injectors tightened down or i cut an oring. I did lube them like you showed and i did test my sensor on the intake manifold as well. As the idm. Truck runs great other than the smoke at startup and also a but at running temp. Can you help guide or other wise guess on how to solve this it's driving me nuts? Ps could I have damaged the injectors on startup that would cause them to do this, other than orings and seating them?

2001 Ford F350 super duty, 7.3 power stroke I was going up a hill and I had a quarter of a tank and I guess I lost prime because when I started it was acting like a ran out of fuel it says I had a quarter of a tank left so I just got fuel at the gas station put it in to the gas station with my truck runs like crap cut in and out. I thought it was a big deal it would clear up I kept driving it now won’t start

Hi Clint, thank you for all the very informative videos on the 7.3. You really have helped me get through many questions. I do have one question about the start procedure that you explain in this video. Would you use this same method on a new/rebuilt engine that has no oil or fuel pressure yet? Do you have a different method for a new/rebuilt engine for a first start procedure? Thank in advance!

Can you explain the obs 5 by 5 and how to do it with out turning the key on

Pull both hpop lines, one to a bucket and the other compressed air pressure before you pull anything that will clear the line and injectors most of the oil.

Clint do you recommend anti-seize for GP threads?

Unfortunately no so called Expert diesel mechanic shop will do anything near to this kind of care , the shop that did mine took almost a month to get my injector cups and new injectors in and back running . Totally was a nightmare!

All my questions are answered, lol I still think I’ll rather have a pro install my injectors just to play it safe

I have a 2000 7.3 with 220k miles … im going to change injectors . Cups aren’t leaking and still good … would you change them anyway ? Or just leave them alone ??

Hi Clint. Just confirming- you do not remove the oil rail drain plugs? Just a vaccuum in the bore on 3 and 4 as soon as they’re removed? Also- how do you determine TDC? All feel with the coat hanger wire basically? Thanks for making these videos!

What are your thoughts on stainless steel cups for a 7.3 Clint?

videos at onset are wonderous

so do i pull the drain plu for the oil and diesel rails or do i not worry about it with the paper towels in place? thanks for the video awesome content

1:51 There's a saying about rocks and glass houses.

Are dieselRx any good glow plugs or u recommend the oem motorcraft

What does the coat hanger do? Let you know when your TDC or something else?

I've got to do #4 and #8 as they are weak. They work great when warm up but not on cold start. Anyone got any extra tips for this ? I hope this works out for me.

I need your services! How can this be arranged?

Ok this is nice and all but what about the injector cups themselves? I know a lot of people say to go ahead and swap the cups if you are doing injectors anyway so that if in the event you have a hair line crack in the cups you adress that at the same time you are doing injectors, which cups can be done with heads on its just a P.I.T.A., what then?

I got 3126 cat i got oil coming up oil the injector what does that mean??

This video is 7.3 textbook follow and you will be happy. Fired right up today!!!!

I changed my fuel tank sending unit lift pump motorcraft brand sale for valve my truck fuel filter light comes on at heavy load then goes off it will die and run out of fuel in bowl

who do you recommend buying 2000 7.3 ad reman injectors from?

you must have had been screaming at the movie screen in Farris Buellers Day Off trying to remove mile off the odometer with the car on jacks running in reverse lol chic chic chica chicahhhhhh ummm bow bow

Where is the wire that looks like an old fuse? I have looked and looked. The wire to turn the starter over? Jump wire 2001 model.

Diésel life 😎

Anybody got any idea what all that was about ? in what circumstances ? I drove diesel vans in England for about ten years (the rest being petrol) and never had any problems starting, I mean if it's old (like mine) providing your glow plugs work and you have a really good, or better, two really good batteries, the things will start. Fast and hot, she'll go !!

Clint- back again. Got everything put back together. Did the 5 and 5 with GPs out. Built up fuel pressure. Topped off oil. Got the dreaded long crank/ no start. Do you recommend i pull the valve covers off and take out the glow plugs and bump the starter a few more times? Only other thing i could think is batteries. They were 12.4V after my fourth crank. I shut it down there as to not blow a rod if it is hydrolocked.

Well I'm embarrassed, and well this stupid cranking thing is happening and won't start. Getting cloudy smoke, or white fuel smelling smoke out of the exhaust is all. Any tips to help me recover this cranking so it will start? I did everything you said from removing them, TDC used a vacuum, Rebuilt the injectors per your instruction to the T and re instal. I'm missing something I have to be. Really need advise I can't afford to have a shop look at this. I am quite mechanically inclined, please help?

well Clint i didn't vacuum and oil from pulling the injectors ran down in the cylinder, so will the information you sent still work to free the cylinder or is there something else i might need to do...

Please correct me if wrong, could you not just leave the glow plugs out while spinning the engine a few times?

what’s the best way to get oil out of the cylinders if you didn’t manage to prevent it?

I don't understand why you recommend bringing only those 2 cylinders to T.D.C. What is the significance of doing that (& not to all of them). No other videos mention that in the procedure.

Never mentioned removing the plugs in the back of the heads to drain antifreeze

Have you had any experience with stainless steel injector cups?

Sir...from now on I will refer to you as "Doctor"! Thanks so much.

What if it won’t even crank?

What about hard start after sitting for three weeks

I like the way you say orings ha ha

There is a Ford injector removed tool.

man your funny!! lol

Buying a power stroke was the biggest mistake of my life

#Roger

Don't need 5 minutes of cranking