Great video and explanation for bearing/hub seal replacement on the Sterling 10.50 axle. Couple of added points, Just use gear oil on the bearings and before you install the hub add gear oil to the recess(About 1 ounce) and roll it through the rear bearing. The 8 drive plate bolts get torqued to 80 foot pounds with the wheels on and the full weight of the vehicle on them. They also use blue loctite thread locker on the threads. Last, jack the opposite side of the axle which was worked on, around 6 inches and allow the axle fluid to run down inside the tube and refill the hub. Refill the differential as needed. Again great video and explanation of the process. So many others leave the oil slinger out but it is a necessary part.

I'll be tackling this project myself thanks to your video...much appreciated

Thanks for taking the time to document the process! Cheers!

I need to do this. Thanks for the video, now I can tackle this repair, it's not as scary as I thought.

Thank You Sir! Looks like you posted this 3 years ago and it’s still helping folks. You helped me Much Thanks Brother

That hub turning while setting the torque was an excellent tip which I'll be using in the future definitely. Makes perfect sense!

If you have a welder, you can lay a big nasty bead in 3 or 4 spots around the inner race, let it cool, and it should about fall out. Then grind the outer surface down til it just slips in the hub. Now you have a race driving tool. If you have a somewhat-steep slope nearby, shoot a touch of your gear lube of choice on the rollers, top off the diff, and park it on the slope with the new bearings downhill for 15 minutes once assembled, the hub will fill right up. If you did both, pull it level and repeat for the other side. Once up to about 45-50, the diff should push oil out the tubes to the hub, so however you do it, be sure to check the diff lube a couple times after it's got a few miles on it.

Great video! I'll just add that I drive the races in all the way with the old race. Then I flip the hub over and drive the old race out with a long punch just like I did to begin with. Also, I drive in the new seal with the old seal. Thanks for the refresher!

Very detailed and thorough. Thank you.

Certainly appreciate your providing this video ... my son and I did make a mistake with a 2000 Excursion, and here found our problem source, then ... its SOLUTION was realized within your video. Thanks Josh!

Awesome job buddy! Thanks for walking me through that b4 I actually take it apart

Thanks Josh! you saved me a ton of wasted time and energy.

IDK if you ever read these. But I want to say thanks. Found out my bearings were bad on the rear pass side even though you say this is for a F-250 in the title. Will work as well for a 1999-04 F350 Remember folk to check your differential for what type of axle you will be working on. this is for a 99-04 F series with a 10.5 pinion gear.

Doing this to replace the parking brake on my 03. Doesnt look too bad. Thanks!

Thanks for your time! Makes my life easier!👍👍😎😎

Thank you! Very nicely done. Merry Christmas!🎅🏼

About to do the same to my 2000. Excellent video!

Great video, helped me a lot, have 4 -- F-250

Great video Josh!! Well done! Doing mine today!

Outstanding job Josh! I did this same job about 8 years ago, I even did a video, but never posted it on my channel because I lost some of the footage on it, sorry about that. I'm hear as a refresher to help do a friends truck. You were spot on with the job and that Slinger. I too forgot the Slinger and I just laughed when I heard you say that. It's so easy to forget it as most wheel bearings I've done didn't have one. Thanks for the super job and video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks so much for your video Josh!

Just what I needed. Thanks!

Thank you for making this video.

Nice job thanks for the great video good info on all points.

Thanks again for the video. Without it I may not have know what all the little flat pieces of metal floating around inside the hub were (oil slinger). Its now an obsolete part, according to ford. But they have one on the shelf, or so they say. Fingers crossed.

excellent video! Helped me A LOT!

I don’t really want to wait an hour or so for penetrating oil to to work, so I use long bolts through the caliper bracket, use two nuts on the bolts and press the rotor off. Usually come off after a few turns on the nuts.

thanks ... this was very helpful.

thanks Josh I'm doing this tomorrow!!!

VERY GOOD!! Thanx A LOT!! 😎👍

Great video. Thanks.

nice video and thank you!

I'm late joining the conversation but I'd like to make the point to never drive or punch any machined parts such as bearing races, and the like, with steel tools. Always use a softer metal. Brass is the go to. In the event you slip and strike any machined surface it won't be damaged. Here in the shop we have an assortment of brass punches, drift pins, etc. in various sizes. I find it odd after watching so many videos like this (excellent, by the way) I have yet to see anyone using these tools. One of the first things I was taught when I started in the shop.

Good job, thanks.

Thanks for the torque spec

Thanks Josh. I have a 99 superduty f250 . I have a vibration at 60 and rear tires are choppy and fronts are good . I am assuming the bearings are done or are loose. I have 100,000 miles on a rebuild and i haul heavy stuff here and there. So I am just gonna order bearings and follow your video. Good instructions ..

good job !

Great job!!!!!!!

Thanks Josh!

Thanks Man

Great video josh what did you use on the spindle along with the hub puller? You said it was a large socket can you disclose what it was? Make/model.. I’m in the process of pulling the RR hub on my 2000 F250 and the hub won’t come off by hand.. I want to be as gentle as I can to the spindle.. what do I use to push the screw on? Thanks for the detail you have in this 👍🏻

I have 2010 F250 Super Duty 4 X 4, 5.4L engine with 160k miles.. My in dust pan rusted enough to push my brake to the inner break pad so I’ve been dragging the rear left break until metal to metal..😏.. So I’m assuming that like your truck I’ll need 2 oil seals, 2 bearings an inner & outer, 2 bearing race rings & 2 oil slingers rings that keeps the bearings in place...? The hub key from Orally Auto Parts, different for my truck ?

What did you torque the axle bolts to?

I didn't see you put the slinger back in when installing the new inner bearing.

I see josh used national bearings. Does anyone have the part numbers for both bearings and for the seals?

What’s the part number on the special socket ?

Thanks for the video! Unless I missed it I didnt see you install the new axle seal. Is there a special tool you used for installation? Thank you

Also, when removing the hub assembly there was a very thin ring on the inner end of the assembly. What is that? It's very thin and flimsy and gets mis-shaped it becomes detached when the hub comes off. I suppose I could simply push it back in place and hope it gets seated correctly and does its job correctly -- whatever that is.

Nice job! Could you provide the part numbers for the inner seal and the race and bearings. It seems that there is only one seal on the inside none on the out, Correct?

What axle is on this truck?

I need to do an entire rear brake job on my 2005 Ford F250. After pulling off the brakes, I realized that i will also need to replace the dust shields as well. Could I contact you with questions? I need a list of all tools and materials needed to do this job. Thanks.

What’s the part number for the bearings ?

Would anyone have the part number for both bearings?

Hi Josh, great video, does this apply to the F-350 Single Rear Wheel 1999 to 2007 as well ? Thank you, Ciao, L

Is there not a C-clip in the differential to take out first?

Were you getting a drivetrain vibration prior to doing the bearings? Under certain conditions I'm getting a shake. It's not the driveshaft or u joints.

Where did you get the special tool to take out the hub nut? Please.

I read that you should pack these bearing with grease. Maybe a thin layer of grease or assembly lube.

I wonder if that race would just drop in if you freeze it first?

What is the tool to remove the rear axle nut?

I didn’t see you add the second wheel bearing on the front. Hmm

What are the torque specs for the axle shaft bolts

When you were removing the seal, you had to pry off the inner seal connection. I noticed that you didn't press the inner connection on the spindle. The seal will leak if this isn't pressed on. I know because it happened to me. The seal is made in two parts that rotate and seal on the inner part of the seal.

What indicated that it needed repair?

What size is that socket.all these vids on this and no one tells the size

What happens if i dont put the oil slinger in at all

Same problem with the seal here..

# 788,.. dont use greese..wash with diff oil, check diff level..

Is this a 2wd truck ?

My truck is original. Bought it new. Never been repaired. Doing mine now. Does not have an oil slinger. 2000 model. Hmmmm

Fuck, this is going to be a bigger pain in the ass than I expected.

Shouldn't use grease use only gear oil

Another comment if I may. NEVER use your torque wrench to turn nuts and bolts down. Use a standard tool to take the fastener to down to snug and proceed from there. Too much wear on the torque wrench and over time it will lose it's accuracy.

To much UH UH UH UH'S AND UM UM UM UM',S !!!

RIP torque wrench