Where did u get a 180 therstat

Grant MX what was the outcome?

KH KH.. CAR SAYS BUMP MY WHEELS, SO U CERTAINLY MUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS LOL

I believe the older (94 through early 97) 3 box computer T444E doesnt have the buolt in provisions in the ECM for an electric clutch.. however you can still use one.. on mine I chose to use a Dakota digital fan controller.. technically its designed for electric fans bit it just turns on a relay at a preset engine temp and turns it off at a preset temp so it can do the same with an electric clutch.. there was a spare 1/8" NPT pipe plug that goes into the coolant circuit behind the fan pulley on the engine so I installed a separate sensor that the dakota controller uses.. then i used a Horton E450 fan clutch and the upgraded 9 blade plastic fan. I installed that setup a long time ago and it still works like a champ..

@@eldoradoboyseriously thank you so so much for that information, that is seriously so helpful!!! I’ve seen people use switches to manually turn on and off an electric fan by wiring into the wires that connect to the fan clutch solenoid, but I had no idea that an electric fan can be controlled by a switch alone on a vehicle without established electrical components. So does the electrical fan then have to be connected to the alternator?

air recirculation is a Hige issue on a lot of vehicles.. hot air fro mthe radiator going under the vehicle.. blowing forward from reflection or from outside wind (while parked).. causing hot iar to get sucked right back in.. ive watched more than one A/C system shut off on high head because of it

In my case the IH 3800 and older 4000 series had a split radiator turbo cooler, the fan clutch on temp was well over 210 that the electric clutches turn on. Due to cool and hot air mixing. In your case if your fan isn’t on by 215 I’d be looking at the clutch as being bad. What you describe is a classic sign of a clutch stuck in minimum speed. Cools fine I’m town but gets hot highway. It never hurts to check the thermostat and radiator, CAC, A/C Combes set for dirt too but by 220 that fan should be screaming. 230 is dangerous for a 466e, surprised the dash wasn’t alarming visible and audio

We’re u correct on this

it does disconnect and go to minimum speed after the initial run-up. ive been told a couple reasons for the startup full engagement . 1 being the fluid settles into the chamger used for engagement. so the unit is stiff after being parked.. 2. being they want a run-up in case you have A/C to cool the condenser before the engine warms up and engages the clutch.

@@eldoradoboy Thank you for a real reply. KZfaqrs may not know of which they preach. And new products are garbage. I just keep working on my beloved 87 Suburban, and I figure it out.

@@eldoradoboy I add more reply. ; Cold, it should free wheel, let the motor warm up. Hot, it should pull full force through the radiator. I've studied the way it works. MOST videos tell it wrong. Ask me how I know.

@@wildbillfirehands When cold the viscous fan should be engaged for roughly the first 20 seconds or so. (may not be as noticeable on warmer days when engine is cold) At which point you'll hear the fan noise subside. If one can freewheel the fan easily when cold it has failed.

not entirely.. at low RPM yes but at higher RPM the clutch has a maximum torque where over that it will slip as its not a mechanical connection.. its still fluid drive.. this helps to protect the fan blades against over-speed at high RPM but still give good cooling at idle.. esp importabt for slow moving vehicles like school busses and refuse trucks - they often ran smaller water pump pulleys to spin the fan faster at idle and then relied on the clutch to partially slip at high RPM to keep the blade RPM down a bit.. most of the medium duty manufacturers required a fan blade change to go from a viscous clutch to an electric full-engagement horton) style clutch.. the newer balde was typically plastic and had a different blade pitch desaigned for full engine RPM..

I get mine from kit-masters they have all different kinds. you can call them if you have a part number from the chevy dealer and see if they have a cross.. they buy borg warner paerts and make their clutches. I think most all of the borg warner clutch packs are adjustable

typically the fluid migrates when the engine is shut off.. if the engine was Hot last time you drove then the clutch fluid has an easier time of migrating to the part of the clutch for engagement..this results in when you first start the truck the fan will run hard for a minute or 2 then shuts down.. I was also told by a manufacturer that this is also done because you need some fan air for the A/C when the engine firsrt starts before the air from the rad is hot enough to fully engage the clutch. the highest A/C load is idling right after startup on a hot day.. at idle the fan will stay mostly engaged for longer than a minute or so.. the A/C stays cool this way..

Nope I played with the heat gun he's correct

so what did you figure out an issue

ive never had the screws snap.. its possible though and no advices other than to drill them out if possible.. the clutch housing is aluminum and the screws are steel so you end up with metallurgy issues when a clutch is old.. the clutch I demo'd was not real old so the screws turned easy.. on older stuff i always recommend a bit of kroil or other penetrating oil to soak before trying to loosen

every function al clutch fan with a Borg warner clutch (many many). will engage for a minute or 2 when the vehicle is cold as the fluid has settled wit hthe vehicle sitting.. this is documented as normal behaviour and I currently own several vehicles with said clutches that engage perfectly when the vehicle is hot ..the clutch is engaged in the beginning when first started then disengages shortly after.. and will then engage as needed with air temperateure fro mthe radiator thereafter during that trip. the forced engagement doesnt occur if the cehicle only sites for short periods of time between runs..