The reason the number of rotations to fill dropped is because not all the air that goes into the compressor through the intake makes it into the tank. The reed valve on the intake will leak some air. You have 2 effects happening on the intake reed valve. 1 is because everything is happening faster, there is less time for the air to leak through the valve. 2 is there is higher pressure on the reed valve pushing it closed earlier on in the initial fill up cycle. Then you have blow-by on the piston rings and any other leak that may be occurring. it all adds up. A lot of people are saying you are putting too much load on the motor, or over-revving the compressor, but I cannot just say that without knowing the full specs of the individual units involved. I know how the process works from design to manufacture, and the designers may have originally designed that system with the pulley you put on, but the pulley they actually used may have been 1/4 the price so they made a last minute change and it worked well enough.

And don't forget the slip of the pulley. There is more strain on the pulley, so you have more Slip.

I doubt it. First your pulley change is 50% larger but you did not get 50% results. You probably reduced the life of the machine AND you never showed how much more electricity it takes. 120mm pulley MINUS 80mm pulley = 40mm Which means the belt is traveling 50% faster.

depends on what the compressor is like. its common enough to run the compressors slower to keep them reliable. very common to find cheap brands that will use a smaller cheaper compressor and spin it faster by fitting a bigger pulley on the motor. to get them reliable enough they reduce the max air pressure. i suspect it will work fine provided you keep the duty cycle down.

The reason for the faster fill is adiabatic heating. The air you pump in gets hotter in the cylinders, expands, and fills your 100 liter tank quicker. After filling, let it cool for 30 min, and you will see a pressure drop without a leak. The increased drop between small and large pulley situations will account for the lost 3-4%.

Why would you be ?

I understand. I don't use tools having problems with moisture,i just need air,so it's working well for me. For sure it's a problem with an air dryer ,but you could cool air down before sending it to the dryer if you want. A big air/air heat exchanger like a AC condenser from a car or a big domestic AC system just after the compressor help you a lot. they normally work at 20 bars,so it's not a problem. A good fan blowing on it would certainly work very well. I have a video on temperatures/amps consumption coming soon with the modification i made.

An aftercooler is a good solution, especially using a home built desiccant air dryer like I have now. I want to take it one step further. I've been planning to make a video on converting a window ac into a refrigeration aftercooler/drier. I have an old 12,000 btu window unit ac that I'm going recharge and bring back to life. From that, I will be run the compressed air through another heat exchanger next to the ac output to condense out any water or oil, and attach an automatic drain to the bottom. I'm interested to see your energy consumption and temp readings. It's something I didn't check on mine.

I think you should dump both in coolant ,in an insulated box. you will loose less energy than with an air/air exchange. air/air is not the best.

Good idea.

and use a ton more power to run it ,, also load the start stop contact pressure switch

but then whats the point as it would just be better to go grab a bigger compressor from the start ,, I have 3 a small 5cfm then a twin pot 12 and a massive 50 cfm 2x twin pot with 2 slow run (1440 rpm ) motors , its quiet and fills quick and runs real cool the pip[e from the pump to the tank has a heat exchanger and drier also (I use it soley for the plasma cam table ) and yes the colder the outside temps will make it work harder also ,,, @@householdhacks

Absolutely. May produce too much heat

Typically manufacturers produce the same product to save costs. The 5hp and 2hp etc models are probably all running the same motor different pulleys, so calm down

jy1235689 lmao you expect these folks to use their head? Nope to difficult. They just go buy a bigger one

VFD will only help to save some energy. It will not increase the potential of your machine. max capacity is max capacity,vfd is used under this max level,and do not help to increase it. temps sensors however are a good thing,to save components from a disaster... Have you got some pics or video on it ?

michaelovitch VFD is used to intentionally overclock the motor rpms during initial fill up or lower pressures since the risk of overheating is minimal.As the pressure rises the load increases and this is signal to slow down to nominal rpms. Also several interlocks like those temperatures might get into action if anything goes wrong. VFD is also used as motor protection ( mainly overcurrent, failed start etc. My design has no blow off valve...therefore the VFD and some ramp up scenarios) Its a really strange creation, but it works. Next time I will try to build somwthing like a compressor I will stick to more usual ways how to do it :)

Not to mention that having a pressurized vessel in some states without physical mechanical overpressure protection can be illegal.

JanicekTrnecka There's nothing like building something yourself, from concept to end product a d seeing it work (hopefully 1st run lol)

I have a different compressor with 1.8 HP that draws 11.25A. I increase the pulley by 20mm and I added synthetic oil with Tribo-MAX to the compressor it pulls almost the same amps as before. I should get the same lifespan from the motor.

@@jr0079 what about the compressor head? these pulley driven compressors last so much longer than direct-drive specifically because the compressor piston is moving slower.

@@animefreak5757 I prefer oil and pulley driven compressors. What I forgot to mention is it runs about 20-30% quieter and little cooler with Tribo-MAX treatment.

: )

Correct. I think the lower RPM compressors are quieter and last much longer. Just how do we configure the correct pulley sizes then for this particular machine to emulate this ??

Canon legria hfr606 why the question ?

Because I'm looking for a new camera and the quality of your videos is good :) Thanks for the answer :)

Thank you for your answer too. It's not on sale anymore,but looks like canon have good lenses i think. I suggest you, if you have a limited budget,to spend a reasonnable amount on the camera like a did,but to use a good compression format after editing. I use mp4 format,wich is correct. Crazy money on a camera will not make good quality images if you use a low quality format at the end. I hope it helps.

And they're right, that compressor pump is rated at 1050 RPM. He has it running at over 1500. It won't take long for it to fail.

Yep im here. ABAC piston compressors are built to a set pully and pump size. If that big pully swap was eny good, trust me they would of done it. A piston is designed to run a 50% duty. 4 mins to fill say ,then it should not restart for 4 mins. Making the pump run quicker will kill it in no time. But an odd use to blow up a tyre ect once in a blue moon and he should be ok.. see how long it lasts on an 8 hour day.

@@jonarmstrong6214 don't neglect potential for flywheel to fail explosively due to the significant overspeed.

You assume the manufacturer didn't spec the same motor for a higher power application in the first place.

@@jy1235689 ikr, those 3hp motors can be run in either 110 or 220v lol, if you are running ont he 110v side, then yeah, the load will be noticeably higher, if its ran in 220v like the one im building, the load it takes to move tha motor will not be noticeable at all, at least thats how my motor is since it stars from 0 to 3600rpm much faster in 220 than 110v, but aslong as your motor amperage doesnt go over the one it was max rated to do, you will be fine.

This depends on the motor rating for duty cycle. Probably not as bad as what you predict.

Hi, thank you : ) i agree,the motor is sucking the amps wich are specified on its plate at full pressure,and the heads have car engine oil a 5w40 viscosity,wich is the same as the stock oil compressor 's one It should be good for my application without problems : )

colten1d 60 yes I concur with your post. All the naysayers are sure disaster is lurking when the original engineering is deviated from. I believe that the motor pulley size has less to do with engineering decisions, and more to do with the fact that the "engineers" probably had a barge full of pulleys they needed to get rid of.

Thank you : )

: )

Yes,i will. Thank you for your constructive comment,idea.

Keep in mind that you may have to lower the pressure to less then 6 bar which makes the compressor sort of useless. Your idea can work but i think you overdid it a bit. As a general rule you can overload emotors about 8-10% without severe consequences provided ambient temperature and dutycycle(on/off time) are reasonable, when overloaded and on 100 % dutycycle it will fail, it will need cooling down time, the more you overload it the faster and more cool down time it will need to prevent burning to a crisp. For the compressor pump goes the same, at higher temperatures it will develop carbon deposits in the outlet track from the valves all the way up to the non-return/un-unload valve and burn everything in its track in coal like misery if the bigend will not seize up and kill it, its only drip lubrication and not like a car force fed. If you are prepared to lower maximum pressure to 7 bar (which is for most air tools the max) on a 10 bar compressor you also get some "unused" amperage and combined with the possible 9% emotor overload you could increase pump speed, lets say 20-30% ?, i think thats reasonable although you still need to keep an eye on the pump, emotor and run capacitor and use high quality/brand compressor oil 68 viscosity. Lowering the maximum pressure can have two unwanted side effects: the compressor starts at a to low pressure, standard "delta P" ( differential) on basic pressure switch is usually a fixed -2bar from maximum adjustment, so maximum at 7 then 7-2=5 bar minimum pressure. A pressure switch with adjustable delta P (0,5-2,5 bar) solves that problem and you have two screws to adjust pressure, one (big) for maximum and one (small)for deltaP/differential. The pressure switch model you have may already have the delta P screw? The other problem may be a thermal/power overload switch, if wound in the emotor or a fixed switch with reset button then new hardware must be bought: a emotor overload protection switch with higher or adjustable amperage setting like a "PKZ" (google it for picture). The "extra" filling you get compared to calculation comes from equaling filling time to pump output and forgetting the cooling (and thus shrinking) effect of the tank in the calculation, increasing compressor output with for instance 30 % will give a time reduction of more then 30% because 80-90 degrees C hot gasses (?) get 30% less time to cool down and shrink back to room temperature and thus the tank fills up faster in pressure. Last tip: a very good air filter replicates cool ambient pressure at the inlet port, i would make these hoses much bigger, like a (old) vacuum cleaner hose....

This was my thought. Motor RPM and Amp Draw? Overspeed over amps! More work more energy more heat = cooked windings! But he did foresee the compressor failing sooner due to overspeed wear.

@@Maverrick2140 those motors draw out as much amp as they need to match the speed they are rated for, aslong as the motor amperage under full load doesnt pass the max rated that it was built for, you will be fine, the amp rating on those motors are for continuos nonstop running, but they will happily output more power intermittently, which is prety much how the air compressor work, intermittently running until its filled.

Thanks for the ideas : ) I've checked the amps consumption when full load in hot summer ,it's exaclty what is specified on the motor tag. 20 % increase is ok in this case. it can be a problem only if you have a barely appropriate sized motor.

Good for you both. Tire pressure is important to your safety,and this alone should justify the purchase. here filling up tires is not free,and pretty rare to find a station to inflate tires around.

m 88 I was just stating some facts. If the motor pulls too many amps it will damage the electric motor period. Second is that I have owned several compressors and if they were too small an output, I simply got a bigger one! Or buy the right size in the first place! Sorry about pissing you off!

@@noidontthinksolol tiny 16A fuse? That "tiny" fuse is rated at 3680W for 230...

@@noidontthinksolol actually I only have experience with 230 since that's what we use... "A welder with 140A" is not a benchmark since once transformer can ask for more power to generate that 140A and another can ask for less while an inverter will definetly ask for less... Long story short electricity doesn't work how you or I want it to work, a 16A fuse will run anything that uses up to 3680W on 230V(it's math...not philosophy). I actually have 16A fuse on the outlets where I use my welding inverter...so there's that.

@@noidontthinksolol maybe slap yourself while you're at it and read a bit on electricity befote you go all-knowing on youtube comments. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

@@dalecain1158 AC induction motors will happily output far more than rated HP in intermittent scenarios without damaging them. The HP rating on these motors is the continuous duty rating. Due to how AC induction motors work, as the rotor slows under load, the "slip" (the physical difference between the rotor RPM and the rotating magnetic field in the stator that is determined by the frequency of the incoming power) increases. As slip increases the back EMF in the system decreases, which in turn allows more amperage into the system, thus generating more torque on the rotor. In essence, induction motors seek to match rotor RPM to incoming power frequency and if you load it down, it will automatically draw more amperage in an attempt to get the rotor back to speed. This is exactly why an induction motor draws an amperage spike when first started since the rotor is at zero RPM and little no back EMF in the system allows a massive in rush of amps to get it up to speed. This is also why variable frequency drives are used to control induction motor speed, it varies the frequency of the power fed to the motor. Note, that VFD's are almost always used in conjunction with 3-phase motors. Single-phase motors do not work well or at all with speed controls (that's a whole other discussion), but the same principles of operation of back EMF to amperage draw remains the same. If the motor is continually run in an overload situation, then of course, it will eventually burn it up as the byproduct of all those extra amps is extra heat. However, if you run the motor intermittently it will run just fine. In fact, running electric motors in a temporary, but highly overloaded situation is exactly what electric dragsters do. They pump massive amperage into motors and build those motors to take the heat just long enough to make it 1/4 mile down the strip. Now, in the case of changing the gear ratio on his compressor, the change wasn't radical by any means. One thing of note is, we do not know if the compressor pump itself actually uses or needs the full 3HP of that motor when it is running on the stock pulleys. It'd be a poor engineering design if it did. To illustrate, you could swap out that 3HP motor with a 5HP motor, but gain zero performance increase if the same stock pulleys are used. Induction motors turn the same RPM no matter the HP rating (assuming they are the same number of poles). In this case, the 3HP motor showed no signs of struggling at start up (compressors, when filled, always start with a load on the motor). It is even possible that the increased pulley size has not even exceeded the motor's rated output, but without taking measurements in operation in the stock configuration, there is no way to know for sure. However, even if we assume the stock config used exactly 3HP, the up size in drive pulley is easily handled and any overload condition is intermittent...it is only in the overload state temporarily, for the 2.5 minutes it takes to fill the tank back up. Even better, once full, the pressure switch turns it completely off allowing it to cool before its next run. As for the increase in pump RPM, this is also not particularly drastic. 1220RPM is still relatively low for a reciprocating pump. I have a Campbell-Hausfeld 26 gallon, 2HP, 2-cylinder single-stage compressor that I increased the drive pulley size on 20 years ago. The compressor is still running fine today with the original motor, pump, etc.

Sure,it ran several hours straight 2 days ago to feed a air hammer to break some tiles. Just don't go crazy to increase the pulley diameter. Mine was originally 100 mm and i installed a 120 mm.

Thank you for expressing your opinion in a correct manner. I can also increase its life by letting the small pulley that is smaller than the stock one. Engine oil replaced the stock oil,air filtration is way better and reduce wear by abrasion. There are theorical downsides,but real upgrades into this set up : ) It may balance itself.

michaelovitch I do like the air filter set up you have - much better than the stock setup!

Congrats dummy, you can't read, can you? The original 100mm pulley broke looooong ago and was accidentally replaced by the 80mm one. Instead of returning to the original 100mm pulley, he opted for this 120mm one. An increase of 20% over factory, not 50%. Given the "residential" use this compressor sees, with a duty cycle probably far below 30%, there will be no significant increase in wear on the motor.

​@gregpearce why be rude = just makes you into a guy nobody will listen to.

@@donovanweber6059 - agree completely

It's a good idea to wear very loose clothing when working around moving parts. See, you'll stay nice and cool and you'll look cool as well.

I've checked the current. It's what 's specified on the motor's plate.

Typically the motor plus compressor design is way more reliable than the smaller combined unit design you see today. This thing will last just fine. Will draw more current, but that's fine. Most engineers don't design their components to just barely be in spec, this thing will last.

@@jy1235689 Yay! Someone that gets it! That's a cast iron pump, it will be fine with an extra 400 or so RPMs...and induction motors will happily output way more than rated HP for intermittent use just fine.

: ) Be sure the motor can handle that by looking at how many amps it's using.

My motor has this big ole red reset button on it !!!!!! This thing was bought back in the 70's, when a few things were still built to last. And it has be sitting for about 20 years. I plugged it up and away she went...all I'm using it for is to try and help my BIGGER compressor keep up with the media blasting. Probably won't be running long at a time. Let me know how your compressor holds up, or if you have a heat problem.

No problems for now,one year later. i used it several hours straight to break tiles with a air hammer,it ran good and wasn't overheating. i use 5 w 40 engine oil in it to have a good oil film : )

I got my pulley on, changed the oil, and fired that baby up. 6 min to 90psi. It dropped off to about 40, not sure on that, but it kicked on 4 min to 90 psi. I had a 2 inch pulley on the motor, went to a 3 inch. Worked fine, starting and pumping. Only problem! Over the 20 years it has rusted a pin hole dead center of the bottom....Bummer Man!!!! next project! I'll just hook the compressor in the line of the other compressor, and do away with the tank. I see a small grill in my future. Enjoyed talking with you, best to you, and may the LORD bless you and your family. P.C.

As long as you have enough flow to keep the pressure up to what you need in a tank , whatever its size,you don't need a bigger tank : ) Tanks are just to compensate for the drop and lag in the pressure to build again,when you start to work. It's like a hydraulic accumulator i guess. Thanks for your good words ,and nice work : ) Keep an eye on the motor amps consumption when it's well warm.

Yes it's all been good advice. But it's simpler than all that. You all can tamp up your compressors like I did off grid ten years ago and it's still running perfect.. Decrease the motors pully to a four to six inch and leave the compressor alone. You won't blow snot.

agreed i just didnt want to be as much of a downer ... ive seen plenty of compressors over driven and drop there pistons as shrapnel in the oil res ...... mechanical workshops and apprentices ;)

Sure,and i will show you close shots of the sharp cast iron pump's pieces stuck in my bleeding legs and testicles because it blew up while i was inflating a tire, with the house in the background ,burning because to much load on the motor,and the insurance company yelling at me for the fire i caused ,followed by the hardware store employee canceling the warranty, laughing at me. I will, i promise.

Kewl..

I will ,just be patient.

michaelovitch Hahaha

They had a choice of any shiev that they wnated,,,,They picked the stock size for a reason.

: )

the motor is starting without problem,very quickly. the pump is at 1260 rpm wich is quite normal as i know. If you have more infos or sources to give me about numbers ,rules or norms,i would appreciate. I will take the amps measure on the motor just to be sure.

Not to mention he just significantly reduced his Pumps life. They Engineered it to last for a set time, and as explained in another comment parts that are used inside the head may not be suitable for the increased speed. If you need more Air buy a bigger Compressor.

sniff, sniff, what's that smell? oh nothing but the enamel and varnish cooking off the winding's :) on a side note, the pump may be spinning to fast for the oil to "splash lube" properly

he had replaced the pully because the stock pulley had broken and he put a 80mm pully and it had a 100mm pulley, so he put a 120mm pulley

You should have used a CFM meter on intake on the stock filters, then put the CFM meter on your new fittings through the hoses, you then want that new air filter as close to the head as poss. I put a car air filter on mine but on head (oval tri power filter direct to cyl), the hose's and distance is a loss of air flow, the weak point on your is also speeding RPM up the cylinders past what they are engineered to take, mainly for intake stroke , == motor will over heat, if you run past the duty cycle it was made for, along with I see in your future of replacing the rods in the cyl and poss. the crank ! Quiet is nice, but duty cycle will fail under use ! A real improvement would be to enlarge the holes in head (if it had room to do it) to allow more air without restriction and slow the pump down for longer life to all > SORRY BUT BEEN THERE DONE THAT ! sad to say that the one I fixed up a couple of guys pulled into car port and stole it !! Hope they enjoy all my hard work !

He says his original pulley was larger than the one he replaced. The original was 100 and now he went from 80 to 120, so he's only 20% larger than the one that was there from the factory, which was 100mm.

10 % bigger is more than reasonnable ,and you wil have good results without negative effects. Just measure the amps used to be safe.

No question about that,,,,,,But it's 90% that all the "BUTT HURTs" are 1000% correct. Time will tell, but I'm betting on a rod failure.

Nah, other stuff will give out way before rod failure.

I understand duty cycle. lol What is your point? You think he went down to 5% duty cycle? lol I haven't seen a compressor yet that had duty cycle problems. My welder yeah. And don't think I haven't worked my compressors hard too. I had 3 working together before to give me enough air for my project and I still didn't have enough. They ran nonstop for two, almost 3 days. 2 of them were home built but not by me.

well 27 years in the industry as a technician does give me licence to talk with authority and that pump will have a max rpm of between 700-800 rpm, you are over stressing main bearings , rod bearings and wrist pins and journals. Not to mention increased flex with the reed valves that will be snapping off on you

@@hiredgun7186 That pump is rated for 1250 RPM LT100 Mecafer compressor - 100 l - 3 HP Powerful, proven head, full V-twin cast iron. For sanding, grinding, bolting, chipping, painting on large surfaces and other uses of pneumatic tools. Stretcher complete with 1 swivel wheel. Lubricated. Characteristics : Power : 3 HP Voltage : 230 V Volume tank : 100 l Max. Pressure : 10 bar Cylinder : 2 Rotation speed : 1250 rpm Suction volume : 360 l / min Volume restored at 7 bar : 240 l / min Fast exit : 2

You can't add pressure ,compressors have limits,with pressure limiters and simply design wich is not good to go above. having two tanks instead of one will just give you more airflow,or more air supply time, but at the same pressure than before If you need more flow,use two compressors in tandem. If you want the compressor to kick on less often ,use a bigger tank,or add an other one. The compressor itself will run less often ,but will run longer each time to fill them up. What is your application ?

Wayne Mckenzie if you are a compressor mechanic you should never ever tell someone to shut the compressor of during a load cykle you will Put strain on the motor by starting again and its not something that should happen unless the power goes out let people do misstakes that is how most of the stuff you use comes to be And if it works then why not (had this done on a compressor 10 years ago and my compressor works just fine)

ok firstly ,,i was correcting what was said about starting under load,pointing out what was said was wrong.. also i dont recommend any body doing what i said, thats something i do to see if the motor is going to fail ,when the pump and motor have the right pulley fitted for the ratio that is required for the pump to not over rev..eg..if the motor was a 2.3kw or 3hp,it would be a 15 amp,, power supply needed doing what was done would burn the motor out fry the start and run caps also...but if people that watch this so called good thing ,well thats there problem...

It started under load,there was more than 7 bars in the tank. How could you cook a non return valve since it works only one way and only when the pressure in the tank exceeds the one in the pump piping. i don't have fuses,only a breaker. Unless i don't know something that you know i don't see what you are talking about.

You can shut off the compressor whenever you want as i know. the one way valve do not allow pressure to go back in the pump,and even if it's failing you will just have a big leak in one pump through a valve assembly simply because that mean a reed valve broke,or is dirty and leaking.

If you're going to talk about something get it right....ok....clearly you think you know what your talking about but you don't...i fix and repair all kinds of motors and electric motors and pumps..yours is just a little one but the problem will still happen i will put this in point form for you... :you got one thing right..one way valve thats what its designed to do only air to the tank.. :if it fails the air leaks out the pressure switch doesn't mean the valves are broken thats another problem that made that happen over revving your pump, or dirty air cleaner, pump running to long over the duty cycle,are just a few. : Also the oil the you will blow out your breather :cook a non return valve, well seen shit loads all because people over rev pumps or running continuously but you will find out. : and starting under load,, i was correcting what you said,letting air out to start it ,that's not under load, under load is when the air pressure in the pump has not been released , this is where the pressure switch comes into play, :and about the fuse, well you got me,one to you ,i still think old school...so how about we call it a circuit breaker, : so your motor is what? what brand ? how many CFM ? whats the Lpm. ,the tank says 3Hp ,looking at your set up :well i cant wait to see what your next comment is,, I suppose you're going to tell me you cant have a automatic drain valve.

5w40 synthetic oil better air filtration system to reduce abrasion wear 21% better pump efficiency (The total pump rotation dropped from 4035 rotations to 3165 rotation per fill up) reed valves prefer this speed. The 120 mm pulley is just 20 mm bigger than the stock one wich was 100 mm the 80 mm i removed here was a bad order,so i'm in the really safe upgrade zone compared to stock. I know what i'm doing. I think. lol

what the fuck are you talking about

thomas robinson a good example of why people shouldn't smoke meth and comment on You Tube! Lol

Interesting first question : The total of rotations made by the pump on a full fill up cycle is lower with the big pulley. that mean the pump efficiency is better with the higher speed. the reed valves work better with the actual higher speed,they leak less certainly during the compression stroke. they close quicker. the heat was ok,i could kept a finger on on the shaft to grease it,so it was not that hot. 3165 rotations total per fill up at 1266 rpm 4035 rotations total per fill up at 885 rpm That mean 21.5% better efficiency.

wrong.

He never got anything that hot. I;m a retired Engineer and Electrical/Millwright contractor. .We did things like that all the time,,,,In Steel mills with 8" diameter shafts and 6 or 8 2 million BTU Burneys ! And 50 years of experience says he will yack the compressor, although those Chi-Com motor are traditionally the weak link. Look how many replacement 2-HP 3450s Harbor Freight sells.

Fuel ?

Electricity, gasoline, etc.

Since the compressor rotate less times to fill up the tank it's a good thing on energy consumption. Wear and tear is not really a concern,it can't be measured for the use i make out of this machine. I would need to meter the running hours on two identical machines working the exact same jobs,like in a factory.

That dude am a fan

Your machine is promoted as "slow running" on its ads on the web. I guess they make them slow to make them "silent" lol Slow is pretty bad for the reed valves wich leak back. I suggest you to use car engine oil to be sure all is well lubed at this rpm. I use 0w20 on mine now,and used 10w40 previously wich was the equivalent of the air compressor oil viscosity. He the tapered pully was way more expensive...

@@michaelovitch I get what you mean about the reed valves. Faster is better. I managed to get a new spa100/1 pulley and 1610 insert for a tenner off Ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/SPA100-1-1610-V-Belt-Pulley/141719797961?hash=item20ff2880c9:g:hewAAOSwu4BVwMDJ and here is the taper insert www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1610-24mm-Taperlock-Bush-/141719786124?hash=item20ff28528c

I don't worry about the crank seal it's okay

To answer your question, it's because if I'm required to provide 2 models of a product to market, why not make the cheapest change in production to make the 2nd unit? I.e. change the pulleys.

Meaning I already made the better one, how do I make the cheaper one. You don't typically design the cheaper "weaker" product first.

Yes, Look the set up, results,and improvements here : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdh7dZCozNiomaM.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eK9jaZmir7C2pqs.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/arRppblk38iUe6M.html

Here the amps drawn are the ones indicated on the motor specs plate while finishing to fill up in 35 °C weather. You method is pretty good for setting up a system,thank you for sharing that. : )

lol... Boyles law dosent apply here! He is absolutely right

terje friestad you're not even close

Boyls law assumes constant temperature... you could use the ideal gas law in this situation tho.

Michael M I I couldn't have said it better myself you hit the nail is squarely on the head as you possibly can

lol well I totally agree with you on this poor motor getting plenty angry with all the extra current in the windings and its life being reduced by an order of magnitude, but thats not what we was talking about. We need to consider 3 times and respective conditions inside the storage tank here... lets go T0, T1, and T2. At T0 when there is a call for air by the control valve the relay and unloader close and the pressure starts to rise to the point T1 when the relay/unloader open. The shorter the time between T0 and T1 the hotter the gas in the storage tank will be (imagine the extreme case in a diesel engine if it helps). With the modifications he mentioned its a difference of almost 50% this means that there is less time for the tank to radiate heat from the gas inside it and less time for the water to condense. What I am saying is that this is a "false pressure" at T1 when the control shuts down. Then at T2 when the temperature of the tank is in equilibrium with ambient the pressure in the tank will be significantly lower due to condensation and cooling of the gas. Were both saying the same thing... this compressor is getting all kinds of hot and bothered due to it being overworked. Im just saying that this heat is also going into the storage tank and should be factored. The author simply asked why it shut off faster than anticipated and the original poster offered an excellent suggestion (he may have just needed to make a declaration in this particular case that compressor RPM is proportional to compression rate)

There are gaps in your knowledge about how this compressor works. You asked a rhetorical question, made assumptions and then answered your own question incorrectly. It's good to be cautious and it's good to ask genuine questions, but you need to be open-minded and willing to learn... The pressure switch unit contains an 'un-loader valve'. At the point the switch turns the motor off, it opens a valve that dumps the pressurised air between the pump and the one-way valve on the tank (you can hear it hiss at 6:09) At the point of restarting, the motor doesn't see any significant load for several rotations. Should the motor stall at any point, the current spikes and the resettable fuse will trip (pause at 0:24, fuse looks like a round button above the motor casing). There are several quite common reasons why this can happen under normal use and yes, a pulley that's too large could cause that too (but your house won't burn down). You say "without its cooling fan..." . but he's running with the original fans on both motor and pump. I don't understand why you suggested this.

Philip Rathbone I

Maverrick2140 But theres a valve in the line going to the tank... after pump stops at fill up, it unloads the pressure at the pump. So when it demands another startup, when pressure drops, thete should be no more of a load on it, then when it starts from empty... Or is this incorrect?

Philip Rathbon

Michael M he is right you know Jack shit about compressors which made your comment the more hilarious to read..

It's a 240 volts motor. We have 240 volts here in France. It's starting quite easily,but a frequency variator would be great.

It's a 100 liters tank. The bigger the tank,the bigger volume you can have,wich is often the longer you can use the air before the compressor kicks on. No it can fill up scuba equipment,it only goes to 8 bars. It could fill the scuba tank to 8 bars and then you would have to fill it up on a high pressure one. I can't afford it either lol

I paid for that "junk" and i don't grow money like cabbage. Maybe you are used to fancy equipment,that's good for you. Maybe you don't remember,or understand how they work,because your compressor had to fill up your huge water tank while it was empty. So the time spent to fill it up once,is exactly the same than if you fill up a smaller tank more often. It's just a question of air consumption on time scale. By the way,water tanks are not designed to sustain the pressure a compressor can produce,so you are asking for troubles. Also,a "real" shop is supposed to purge the tank regularly,and use oil and water separators/air condensers and filters. A tank in florida will be full of water even it's rotating at 2rpm...

100 mm was the stock one ; ) i broke it ,and replaced it by the 80 mm i remove in the video. So i just increase a little from the stock set up.

It's good for businesses...

He is not saying to do it he is showing people how to make a little more with what they have. more power to him. U dont like the idea dont do it. Some peeps can't afford new stuff and would like a little better even to just get by

It's about right lol.

You beat me to it, I was going to post the same. :)

Congrats dummy, you can't read, can you? The original 100mm pulley broke looooong ago and was accidentally replaced by the 80mm one. Instead of returning to the original 100mm pulley, he opted for this 120mm one. An increase of 20% over factory, not 50%. Given the "residential" use this compressor sees, with a duty cycle probably far below 30%, there will be no significant increase in wear on the motor.

That's a nice set up. I don't understand how the motor would work less,it has to run the same amount of time to fill up the volumes you need. Unless you reduce the pressure while adding tank volume ?

You tube has some real misinformation by people who love to show off limited knowledge!

Granted read the label on the motor but it's probably underused to begin with. That means this is fine

Thanks : ) This one is big enough lol

It's around 35 °C during the video,so it's quite hot,the air density is low,and the cooling system on the compressor is not happy. I have about 2 months per year maximum of this kind of weather,here in France. I found nothing on the Salisbury drive : do you have some links ? I 've measured how many amps the motor is consumming,and it's quite interesting... I'm making a video of it ,with all parameters.

He might be fine, hopefully it was over-built to begin with. I was considering cobbling together some stuff, then realized that, yes I can make things work... but I want 100 percent usage duty cycles and other engineered qualities.

Andy Tyler exactly. He didn’t “improve air flow” he simply overdrove the pump.... lots of engineering went into this, you know?

Congrats dummy, you can't read, can you? The original 100mm pulley broke looooong ago and was accidentally replaced by the 80mm one. Instead of returning to the original 100mm pulley, he opted for this 120mm one. An increase of 20% over factory, not 50%. Given the "residential" use this compressor sees, with a duty cycle probably far below 30%, there will be no significant increase in wear on the motor.

Pendejo, así le vas a dar en la madre al compresor y vas a quemar el motor.

Guaranteed that when he changed the sheave he didn't take in account the service factor on the motor or calculate the new bhp or new amps with that size pulley. Second you are now pushing that pump past the rpm limit it was designed for.

12 / 4 = 3 (motor pulley is 3 times smaller than pump pulley,so the pulley will rotate 6.75 times slower. 3350 rpm / 3 = 1116 rpm for the compressor rotation speed. Shafts dimensions,and belt dimensions are useless to know rotations speeds of both motor and compressors. You just need to know one of the two rpm and pulleys dimensions.(the dimensions of the grooves where the belt seat on the pulleys)

Thanks : )

In hardware stores,it's in the plumbing section. It's a simple butane or propane torch.

It's going very well : i replaced the oil two months ago with 0w20 engine oil instead of 5w40 ,so it splashes even more the inside. No metal particles,no loss of pressure or compression. The point is to avoid over revving ,and 1200 rpm is not going to blow it up : )

@@michaelovitch Very cool. Thank ya sir good info!

@@dakota-joel7590 Just check the amps consumption on the motor,before and efter the modification. It should be very close,if not ,reduce the size of the pulley,to avoid the motor to work above its ability. Generally there is some margin to play with.

@@michaelovitch Yessir will do!