Thanks Greg, It came out real nice but I hope I never have to do another one...ever again.

***** No problem buddy, glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks Richard, I think the key to longevity is how well it's painted. water needs to run off the door and not soak in. I'd put a good paint job as top priority.

Thanks Russ!! 👍🏻👍🏻

I totally agree!!!

It’s up for sale right now!

All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. if it’s still for sale, how much!?

Hey there Colt, good to here from ya buddy! I used to build em on site too, 16, 20 and 6 penny nails and all, now I do 1 or 2 a year and I'm just too damn old and forgetful to do em on site...I like the comfort of my shop where if I forget something I don't have to drive back and get it.

Yeah, Thats why the truck we used are equipped (ServiceBeds tha can hold twelve 3/8' sheets of plywood on channel racks) and setup to be a shop on wheels. The truck is low enough to get under the old door to haul away and the rack hight enough so an average hight person can't cut there head open while walking around the truck when theres a one piece door on it.

Yep, the ol 1pc doors are a thing of the past these days.

Thanks JW!! Trust me... when it comes time to getting your dream home, money talks and it will get you anything you want.

So very true. The only hard thing will be finding an R80/Touch N Go to make it perfect. Haha!

Thanks Vlad!! 👍🏽

Well they do make some pretty big springs, normally a 7ft high door would use 2-728s on each side, a fairly hefty door could use 2-528s on each side and a monster could take 2-328s on each side.

Yes, I know this is a couple of years late. But, like me I'm just getting to the point that I want replace my one piece slab door. The spring rate is important however, if your Holmes door Hinges are anything like mine, they have several attachment points where the spring attaches to the lever arm. If the springs are on the upper most hole of the lever arm and it is still not easy to open, then go for the stiffer springs. If not in the upper most hole, try moving the spring further towards the end of the lever arm. Also, in case you forget during all your enthusiasum, do this with the door open and propped up to relieve most of the tension on the springs! Once you unhook the springs (top & bottom, mine has a linked chain with an S hook for more finetooning of the spring tension) give it a try. Start all the way out on the chain and then move in one link at a time until you get it where it works for you. If the door still does not open with the ease that you expect, go to the stiffer springs. If you have older springs like mine, which do not have a safety restraint cable inside the spring should the spring snap (trust me, you'll know when this happens!) replace then anyway! At the least, when this happens a broken bone is the least of your worries!

Dego ROCKS!! 👍🏽👍🏽

Sure, no problem. It might take a while though, for some strange reason when I go in to edit the info for the video an error just keeps popping up, so I will try and get back on tomorrow and see if it's fixed yet.

ALLProGarageDoors Thanks for adding the materials to the description

Fragosgaragedoorvids No problem buddy.

I don't understand why people don't like the traditional wood garage doors? I've had mine for 23 years and never have even changed a spring. It's actually from your Company

Double Dare Fan ... I've seen that done, it does add some weight yes... but it can be properly springed.

I didn't weigh it but I would guess 300lbs.

Well Elvis, I did a 1pc steel door last week and it came with weatherstripping on the sides of the door, I would imagine that any strip of rubber that you could attach to the sides of your door or to the back sides of the frame would work...not great, but do-able. Just out of curiosity...why do you not have a sectional door by now? they seal up damn near air tight. 1pc doors need some breathing room to operate and therefore the gaps on the sides.

Video tape it Nick.

Eventually... lol. No way my parents are letting me do that here! lol especially with that new CHI I just put in.

Nick'sGarageDoorService I

This was great, been searching for "learning powerful methods to build your Chi energy" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Fellmeroni Rudimentary Chi - (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate got cool results with it.

Thanks SUV! I think its do-able, just put silicone caulking thick in between all the sections and brace the back side real good and I don't see any reason it wouldn't work!

ALLProGarageDoors I will try that, thanks!

Thanks Ben, there is a kit for the door called a Holmes E-900 Hardware kit. It comes with the hinges and springs along with some bumpers and assorted lags and bolts.

Thanks Isaac! from what i remember the customer used the garage for storage so they just hand operated it.

+jade007z ....that is a damn good question!!! I think wood would absorb more sound but I think the steel would reverberate it back into the garage and with a good Vinyl weatherstripping around the outside also help keep it in the garage vs the gaps on each side of a wood door...necessary for operation. Close but I'd say steel. Now an insulated steel door with a 9R value....BINGO!! and only about a hundred bucks more than non insulated, totally worth it!!

try this. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZraAosyYxsvSiqs.html

It could be done if you keep the windows small and put them in between the stringers.

probably home depot

i think we might have showed more on the installation part on the steel 1 pc vid or on the hardware installation vid

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8mSqK2Vy8jXYYU.html

as a matter of fact I do….

3/8 roughsawn ply, i suppose with all the stains available these days it could be done to look pretty good.

avaughs 1100 is very light duty and they don't make it anymore to my knowledge. The 1100 doesn't have as many adjustments but the ones it does have should be the same, if you have any questions that you can't seem to figure out shoot me an email at Mike@allproqgd.com

I'm not sure, there is not much in the way of fiberglass down here so all I can tell you is your fine as long as the frame can support the weight and try to keep it as light as possible, hopefully your door is not too wide or it could be a problem. You might be better off building a steel 1pc door...much easier and lighter too.

Not off hand, but alot depends on the size and design. you could get a 1 pc steel door as well, much cheaper than wood with less problems.

The best hardware is HCJ-7 if you can find it the best opener is probably a Liftmaster chain drive. No retail models.

Thank you! So commercial is best for the opener? @@ALLProGarageDoors

It just passed smog... we don't drive it often but it still runs!

Any door over 12ft wide needs to have two "truss rods" one on the top and one on the bottom to support the center of the door from sagging otherwise the door will collapse. If you can't find an actual truss rod then you might be able to substitute it with a cable, but there has to be a bridge or v-shaped block in the center of the bottom and top rail in order to get the middle of the door to come up when you tighten the cables using a turn buckle. But that's really the only way to get the sag out.

This video shows two truss rods at the 7:23 mark. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8mSqK2Vy8jXYYU.html

@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you again. I see the truss Rod. Question can tension cable do the same job, if not do you have any suggestions where i can buy a truss rod that long. Muchas gracias

@@JoseJimenezbravedominican Truss rods are hard to find, i would look for one first but if you don't have any luck i think a good thick cable pulled tight could work, you have to have the ability to tighten it so i think a turn buckle could be the way and also you need a bridge in the middle to force the door upward as you tighten.

@@ALLProGarageDoors The fact that you replied with so much detail is to be applauded!

try amazon or home depot.com they might have it. You might not find the exact same stuff i used but you’ll find something that works.

brush seals are ok. I don’t know of any local suppliers, you might have to order online.

@@ALLProGarageDoors Do you prefer just sticking with the standard 3/8" rubber seals instead?

@@fastsvo Rubber is better for keeping wind, cold and heat from coming in or getting out but short of that not much difference.

you should use Lcj-8 if you can find it. the most common hardware is E-900 but it says for doors up to 7'4" high, i've seen em used on 8ft doors but Holmes doesn't recommend it.

No, it’s all just regular ply. The homeowner will need to paint it and keep up on the maintenance.

No problem, any questions let me know.

I think 350 might be the limit, you’re gonna need a 328 and 528 on each side to balance it. But i’m pretty sure the E-900 hinges can handle 350 max door weight.

@@ALLProGarageDoors I weighed the door and it's coming in at 312 lbs. I could probably reduce that a bit if needed, wanted to get a professional opinion. Do you think it's necessary or have you hung doors that heavy before using the E-900 system? I could replace the 3/8 ply with hardboard which would reduce the weight by 40 lbs - but not really wanting to do that if it's not necessary. thank you for your advice!

@@philbischof Put it this way… I have balanced many doors that heavy on E-900 hardware, I think the hinges can handle it but that being said the lighter the door the better, it’s easier on the wear and tear of the hinges and springs in the long run. One thing that is highly overlooked but quite possibly the most important part of the whole project is the paint job, water must run off the door and not be allowed to soak into the wood, a good paint job inside and out is critical and paint also adds weight. The longest lasting one piece doors are light and have a bulletproof paint job.

@@ALLProGarageDoors Awesome advice! Thank you! I've purchased some lighter ply to reskin the door and reduce the weight. I'll focus next on a bulletproof paint job. Thank you for your time!

Yes

The hinges are called "Holmes E-900" The springs were "Holmes 728-P"

usually a tad bit higher

Yes.

That’s a great question and I don’t. But you can easily find weatherseal for the bottom and sides. the bottom just attaches with nails…supplied. the side weatherstrip is a flat rubber seal that attaches to the back sides of the openings frame.

@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you for responding. I appreciate it so much

Try this one.....kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8mSqK2Vy8jXYYU.html

The truss rods are a must on anything over say...10-12ft they keep the door from sagging. people sometimes remove them so they can pull a taller vehicle into the garage but the door collapses shortly after so they are a must have.

@@ALLProGarageDoors Any idea where to buy one? I found the part number, Holmes TRK-14-6P. HD and Lowe's don't carry it anymore.

Brent Daugherty For the past few yrs I’ve been saving them off of old doors. They might be obsolete.

@@ALLProGarageDoors Oh man. I guess I'll pick up some slotted angle. Probably going to be a lot more expensive that those rods used to be.

@@ALLProGarageDoors I got lucky. Apparently a company called Apex in Burbank still makes the rods.

How to hang that door

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8mSqK2Vy8jXYYU.html

you have to install hinges and springs but you'll need atleast 2inches for the door to turn in and the door including the truss rod will hang down 6" in the opening so you better make the roof of the shack atleast 7ft6" high. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8mSqK2Vy8jXYYU.html

@@ALLProGarageDoors so for a 6 foot tall door, i need a 7.5 foot tall opening?

michigan0207 Well you have to consider the thickness of the door because its going to be below the opening so if your opening is 6ft and your door is 5-6" inches thick then your height is now 5'6" high when the door is open so your opening should be 7ft minimum so when the door is open you'll have 6'6" ish in height, then you'll need a few more inches on the inside for the door to turn. it can be done in two inches but the door doesn't work smoothly, give yourself 5-6 inches clearance and it will.

the steel 1pc doors have side weatherstripping as well as the bottom, the wood doors typically only have bottom seal but if you build it yourself you could add weatherseal sides as well. they only need about 1-3/4 side clearance and about 2" overhead clearance.

I was planning on building a door because I can’t find any one piece doors in Portland. If you have any brands of metal one piece doors that would make my life even easier

@@bigsexyonice there aren't any 1pc door mfg's It's all custom stuff but i do like the sectional doors converted to metal 1pc doors better than wood.

Thanks for the info. I figured there had to be a way. I’m assuming someone must make a conversion kit,? Thanks again for your help

@@bigsexyonice when i used to build the steel doors into 1pc doors we used to buy the kit from a place called Multisales. They only sell to professionals as far as i know. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/icBndZxorZbSf5s.html

you have to watch the video where i explain how the hardware works… it’s easy.

itha2120 the video is many yrs old, I can't remember but it was ALOT. Best off getting a steel 1pc or steel sectional.

A lot? For some plywood and what 1x3's? Forgot those mega dollar cheap nails from Harbor Freight. And that lovely "latex" caulk LOL LOL.

@@jimdavidson5208 For the labor, overhead, and profit.

if your frame is 10 wide you can make the door 3/4 to one inch smaller. On a ten wide by 6 high i'd use one 728 on each side. i use 2x3s to keep it light.

understood & thanks. As far as Headroom (distance between the bottom of the header to ceiling) Can I get by with 6" without changing the headroom adjustment holes? I read 5" is enough clearance.

Yes that is true, 6" should be fine.

what are the "6 - 16p nails 3 on each end" Not sure what is meant by 3 on each end. Each end of what? (in your material list) THANKS again....

Phoebe If you watch the video at 4:10 and 12:05 you can see the 2x4 on the very end is laid flat but there is another 2x4 butted up against the flat one and that one is like the rest of them... on end.The three nails go from that one into the very end one to keep it from warping.

About 2 inches

@@ALLProGarageDoors no kidding?! Unbelievable.

@@Lucas-pv2wn There are adjustment holes in the hardware that change the way the door arcs, so with the right adjustments yea… door will turn in less than 2 inches. The opener will not like it but it will work.

depends on how thick your bottom weather seal is because the door can sit off the ground up to an inch but the average is about an inch above the header.

All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. perfect thank you. does half inch on each side for reveal ok? do they make a weather seal the side or not? any recommendations for floor weather seal

scal760 they do make both, if i do a seal on the side i usually use the flat seal which is the same stuff i use on the bottom. You can a half inch on each side which is perfect if you have an opener, if you are going to work it by hand the go with a quarter inch gap on each side.

All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. I really appreciate the quick replies. is there a name for the flat seal? could I get it at home Depot or Lowe's.

scal760 hang on I'll check when i get home...I'm on the road heading home now, I'll see if I can find a link.

No space at the top. The door uses the header as a bumper and it should tuck up behind the header about an inch

@@ALLProGarageDoors I have never actually seen one of these doors in person so i am only going by what i see online. So the top of the door actually sits behind the opening about an inch? Then the door when it's closed is actually at a slight angle from top to bottom with the bottom sticking out into the opening part way?

@@maliburacer Yea kind of... in other words, it does sit behind the header but the cantelever arms on the hinges are designed to allow the door to stand straight up and down when adjusted. Sometimes it actually will have a slight angle outwards from top to bottom but in most cases it can be adjusted to almost perfect vertical.

@@ALLProGarageDoors OK, i think i get it. The entire door should sit basically even with the back of the door frame when it's adjusted correctly. I want to put a walk through door in the garage door and the garage door being at an angle would be bad.

@@maliburacer Exactly! it can be adjusted to very close if not perfectly vertical... most times. On very heavy doors the springs need to be bigger and bigger springs means more pressure when it's closed and that pressure doesn't always allow the door to sit perfectly vertical until it's locked in place

If it keeps water flowing off the door rather than behind the trim and into the door then yes...it's perfect!!

No it's not.

then what do you suggest, Mr Expert? Easy to be a contrarian

Ditch the Gum, other than that, nice video.

Nothing wrong with screws but it's just more pilot drilling and screwing which takes more time and makes it even more expensive than it already is.

@@ALLProGarageDoors Impact driver doesnt require pilot hole drilling?

Independence City Motoring I didn't use an impact on the door, i probably drilled a pilot or two when near an edge or knot but other than a staple gun for the ply thats about it.

Good question, to my knowledge they aren't available. Home depot sells a screw-together truss rod kit, or atleast they used to.

Thanks for your response, I have learned a lot from watching your videos. Couldn't find anything like this at Home Depot. Do you think this door that you built could go without truss rods? If not could I use a cable and turnbuckles to accomplish the same purpose with a standoff block in the center of the door to help prevent sag?

No problem Travis! I suppose cables could work but they will have to be thick and super tight. the door would collapse without some sort of truss support. Normally when I need truss rods I will take them off an old door I am replacing with a new one. I would venture to say that your best bet for finding good solid truss rods would be to locate about 2 or 3 local door dealers and swing by their shop after hrs and see what they are dumping out back. Most San Diego dealers will have a few decent one piece doors stacked up somewhere waiting for someone to come and load them up for the trip to Mexico, so truss rods are abundant here when needed simply by salvaging them off of old doors.

From what I remember the garage was packed full of crap, it didn’t have an opener and the customer was a little sketchy, so I had to minimize my camera visibility. I think I did a little better on the “steel 1pc” video.

@@ALLProGarageDoors Ahhh, i gotcha. ;) I'm a door installer out by Detroit, was just curious to see it function. I also like to do framing (I've done a lot of rebuilding the face of garages, redoing ties, whatever it takes to get a new door in), so this video was like a blending of the two for me. :D Thanks for the reply.

Paul DeFillippo I hear ya! It’s always interesting to me to see doors and neighborhoods from other parts of the US as well. Sometimes I forget that the 1pc door is mostly here in the south west states, I’m so used to them, they are the norm here.

@@ALLProGarageDoors We have steel one piece doors out here, but they haven't been sold since the 90s so I'm tearing them out, not putting them in.

@@ALLProGarageDoors One last question, was that a normal one piece set up or was that a California tilt or trackless one piece?

Homeowners association required an exact replacement, otherwise it would have been crazy.

I have a one piece that I am tearing out. Springs popped in the middle of the night, sounded like a gun went off.

Yea they do tend to break at night, scares the hell out of folks.

The Internets .... I wouldn't recommend it either but every now and again you'll find a homeowners association that requires you replicate what is already there. Oh well... whatcha gonna do...

I guess the work they pay you to do.

The Internets thats about it. Although with the proper springs even a door this big can be made to lift with one hand, this job was done for an older lady and no opener was installed so she will be working it by hand.

Good to know. Mine is probably in need of new springs then. My house is 80 years old and I wouldn't be surprised if the springs are original. It's not terribly hard for me to open but I can't imagine my grandmother being able to get it open and closed safely.

The Internets that is possible that you are in need of new springs, i have a video on how to install them and balance the door but before you buy em make sure your hinges look like the ones in my holmes hardware video. If not then you might not be able to do springs, at that point try adjusting yours.

Mr. Poopy Butthole If it’s painted properly you can use Russian toilet paper and it will be fine. Plywood is more durable than say a doug fir 1x4 which will cup and warp at every knot. But then again... it all depends on the paint job. I’ve hung 1pc doors back in the 80s for every big player in San Diego and they all used strips of... you guessed it... plywood.

I'm going to pretend that Samuel Taylor didn't used to have his user name as Mr. Poopy Butthole, and the garage guy is insulting him.

Whaaaa? the music is the best part!!

Yes, they are called Truss rods.

@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you ive been trying to look for them but didnt know the name my garage door collapsed on me because the side beams where rotted man it was a 1 piece garage door for 2 cars it was soo heavy i had 6 friends trying to carry it i think its the original garage door and my house was built in 1908

@@miguelplascencia2460 They definitely are heavy!! If you ever build a new one keep it light and very well painted, lighter seems to last longer these days. the ones we take down these days are in the best shape when painted inside and out.

Prolly around 5-6 hundred.

rummy98 I totally agree!!so when I went back to check on the paint I fixed it, the installer said the grain on the 2x3 pulled on the handle.

Good job man!

Thanks Rummy! Can't put forth that much effort then screw up the easiest part. I always show my new guys that video...then show them the end with a crooked handle for a lesson. Your one of the very few if not the only one to have noticed...good job!

Yea buddy, people notice the fine details. They are also way more likely to talk about poor workmanship than good.

rummy98 I totally agree!

jim davidson but paint doesn’t stick to 100% silicone, i think painters caulk if painted... should last. I’ll take a picture of the door up close next time i drive by it.

They make a paintable silicone. Wondering if it's as good as the non-paintable though..... You make a good point by top-coating the caulking with exterior paint.

jim davidson I drive by that job quite often so I’ll get some up close pics of the caulking.

I’m sitting in my truck in front of that door right now, i checked it out... the caulking is fine. Some spots look like they were done yesterday other spots look like they could use some fresh paint but all in all a total success! I took pics for future comments.

Points for following up to you. Probably didn't use primer and Sherwin Williams.

😆 just goes to show that you can’t even leave your crew to wrap up the simplest of things…they bungle it.

jracer77 yep.... ain’t that a bitch when you spend all that time making a great door then leave it up to two cross-eyed knuckleheads to fumble the job on the one yard line?

Rocking Rachelle let us not ask Y... but rather...Y not!