You're welcome.

I think different people learn differently. I find that I go back and forth. I read enough to have a pretty good idea how to take some first steps. Then I take those steps, get stuck and go back to the manual with a better idea what I need to know. And so on. In this case, overheating the motor freaked me out, so I took the time to read everything before going any further.

@@Clough42 This is me also. Finally getting ready to wire everything up after a year hiatus. Having to re-learn, but seems to be coming back quickly.

They can be. When they work, they're wonderful. When they don't, they can be maddening.

@@Clough42 - Yes. Oh My God, Yes.

Yeah... Thanks for that. I almost missed it.

But you didn't hear me yelling AIR!! :D

Interesting. I have some that are maybe 2-3years old that are just garbage. Almost every single flat blade driver has broken. Sadly, they do in fact have the WF. I got some Wiha extra heavy duty screwdrivers really cheap and they have been MUCH better tools.

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it.

I'm sure the Mechatron ATC 80 spindles cost a lot more than this does.

The fuses actually do disconnect from the bottom, but the clearance is not as great, and I definitely don't trust it enough to touch the fuses.

For LPT port control, I totally believe that. I'm using an FPGA-based motion controller (ESS SmoothStepper) so that isn't really a concern. I fiddled with LinuxCNC when I first started out (on the LPT) and couldn't get it to work on the Eden VIA motherboard I'm using.

I was thinking the same thing. It’s interesting to see that most manufacturer’s sell these things with the regulator downstream from the filters/driers (just like what you have).

The system is modular, so it can be reconfigured, but this is the way it came from the factory.

I'll be covering that shortly. I have some additional concerns, since I'm shooting video and want to be as efficient as possible with air consumption, so I don't have compressor noise in the background all the time. I think I have a good solution for this, and you'll see it soon.

Yes, I have inputs to spare, assuming I use RS485 for spindle control. I am planning to do something like you suggest.

I did my mill enclosure with low-profile 3D-printed plastic rails and zip ties to hold the wires down. The big win with the cable duct is that it's easy to add stuff progressively or make changes in the future. The downside is that it takes up space and blocks airflow.

Those are AMP CPC connectors. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/206486-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvG94qpybaIZbTrHKt3B0oIkUYpYlADsj4%3D

MACH3 is working for me. I have a "new" motherboard already set up with Windows 10 waiting for MACH4, but haven't gotten around to it yet. It's tough to want to jump in and tear up something that's working. Acorn/Centroid looks pretty cool, but also not super cheap if you start adding many options.

Yup. That's the plan.

They're fuse holders that hold replaceable 10x38mm ceramic fuses. Many VFD manuals call for both a Molded Case Circuit Breaker (MCCB) and a fuse. I've heard it suggested that this is because the UL testing was done with fuses on a circuit with a breaker, so something something certification. I'm not sure if that's legit. The Hitachi WJ200 manual calls for a breaker, GFI, or fused disconnect. Some VFD manuals specify "semiconductor" fuses, which are extra-fast, presumably to protect the semiconductors in the drive. In this case, I'm using normal fast-acting ceramic fuses.

@@Clough42 I noticed that, like most CE products, the fuse holders are not UL listed. Not unusual since almost all Chinese electric products are not UL listed and therefore illegal to install by US code regulations. This is a problem I have personally encountered as I am rewiring my 1909 Craftsman home into a modern smart house. Finding UL listed (affordable) devices and components is quite difficult and most of the stuff sold on eBay and Amazon is not listed so while it might be perfectly adequate, electronically speaking, it is, in fact, illegal to use. As an example, the Arduino is not UL listed as is the Raspberry Pi and as such is not useable in a code approved installation.

Check the bell icon to see if it is set to "always". KZfaq defaults to "occasional" notifications when you subscribe to a channel. They don't seem to define anywhere what "occasional" really means, but it appears to be mostly useless.

Yeah, the KZfaq algorithm is a mystery wrapped in an enigma. I think the bell icon is the solution.

@@Clough42 It is strange since the algorithm, must see that I subbed you. I've search for your videos, and watched a ton recently. :-) Your VFD videos really helped me, thanks.

It did come with seal plugs, and I did purge it off camera. Good points.

Sorry... The video was getting long, so I didn't show it, but I calculated the speed based on the top frequency of 400Hz, and also measured with a laser tachometer. I'll show it in the next video.

Yes. Both filter chambers are also water separators. There's no desiccant dryer, but I live in southern Idaho, where we drain the compressor tank every couple of years, whether it needs it or not. :)

Linas - this is Hitachi OPE-SRmini, for example: www.hitachiacdrive.com/hitachi-ope-srmini/

Yes. You're correct. I had always heard it as non-parallel, but that appears to have no basis in reality.

Funny - I've always known it as National Pipe Taper! There is also a straight (non tapered) version.

There is also BSP, or British Standard Pipe, which is a straight thread that ALMOST matches to NPT. Its generally close enough that you can make it work, but I seem to recall it is something like 1 TPI off from NPT threads.

@@lwilton It's the same TPI, but a different threadform (rounded, not pointy), so if you thread a BSP male into a NPT female it will go, but it will leak like a sieve! Damn Brits :-P

It's on the Avid CNC router now.

Did you check the video description?

@@Clough42 Sorry about that didn't see that the first time. In a hurry before work. AHHH

The manual for the VFD specifies fuses. There are lots of details about how fast they open and the current conditions that can break. I just did what the manual said. There is a circuit breaker nearby in the panel, but that's of course not the same thing.

Clough42 thanks so much! I’m currently building a 5 axis with a 54” x 100” x 26” capacity with the hopes of being able to evolve it to machining steel. Your videos have been a huge inspiration and help! Thanks so much!!

The existing spindle in the machine only runs at 2.2KRPM, which has been a big limiting factor. I run a lot of aluminum with 1/4" tools. The tools are specified for use up to 12KRPM, but I can't take advantage of that with the stock spindle. I probably don't need 3hp for that, but the excess power should translate into additional torque at slower speeds. This is my thinking. It still remains to be seen how that all works out.

@@Clough42 if you are strictly wanting 1/4 and under tooling the high rpm nay be beneficial, but on mine i run a 2hp 3ph ac motor with vfd and have 6k rpm top speed with gobs of torque for deeper cutting all the way down to 2rpm (1000:1 constant torque motor running in vector feedback mode). i think the machine itself will become the limitiing factory on its ability to cut at speed. so that 12k spindle will be able to move the 1/4" tool probably faster then your machine can move accurately on the dovetails. and you may have to back the spindle down out of its power range to compensate for the machine feed shortcomings. i run aluminum 90% onmmine and have very quick machine cycles for a small machine. my go to recipe is .75" DOC, 20% tool diameter WOC 0.003ipt using a 3 flute high helix endmill. while it isn't moving terribly fast at only 54ipm, its removing quite a bit of material in each swipe. with the 12k spindle im not sure it will like such a meaty cut. so even if you are moving at 108ipm feed rate (which on a dovetail stepper machine is gonna look awfully jerky probably) you will likely be taking half the width of cut or a shallower depth of cut. there are several of us who have modded these G0704's to the hilt and to date it is hard to beat the nachi tapered roller bearing upgrade, direct poly-v multi-rib belt drive conversion and 3ph AC motor, we are getting under 0.0001" runout on the stock spindle with the better bearings and they are very rigid and give superior surface finishes that shine like reflective mirrors right of the machine. even at 3/4" doc. we favor 3/8 and 1/2" endmills for material removal and use the smaller tools for rest machining. I am curious to see your results and will be following along! if you ever decide to go to a more torque like motor or want rigid tapping etc, linuxcnc and a spindle encoder is all you need and with the vector duty motors rated full torque at like 2 rpm tapping is a breeze as well as larger drills etc.. anyway very cool project regardless and its just different not worse probably, many ways to skin a cat!

I will. I'm planning to use RS485 for that communication, so I didn't wire up any relays or the 0-10v analog signal.

@@Clough42 im going to pretend i understood all that tech talk and say "great!" :)

@@minskmade There are (at least) two ways to control the VFD remotely: One way is to use switch closures to control on-off type things like "on" and "direction", and to use an analog voltage (like 0-10 volts) to control the speed. This takes a lot of individual wires, because you pretty much need a separate wire for each function you need to control. The other way is to use "serial communications". This is like a primitive version of the Internet* where you just need a single pair of wires, and you can send commands to the VFD as a series of bytes, and get responses back from the VFD as a series of bytes. This only takes two (or maybe 4) wires on a single connector, and for most things works at least as well as the many wires that you would use for discrete functions. I don't know if any of that explanation helped, or if it was just more gobbledygook. :-) (* I'm simplifying here, just a bit.)

I see l wilton already responded to you. RS485 is a communication standard for devices to talk to each other. Think of it like a USB connection that allows commands to be sent to the VFD and status information to be read back to the computer. It uses only two wires, and unlike USB, it is designed to operate in hostile, electrically noisy industrial environments.

i havent started mine :P

Agreed.

There's a circuit breaker feeding the panel, and fuses in the box. This is the configuration recommended in the VFD manual. Or at least close to it.

Not at all. Most of the configuration is for advanced use cases, like positioning and PID process variable control. For a simple 60Hz motor, most of the defaults would work fine. You would need to set up the usual stuff (max and min frequency, motor current, start/stop/speed control inputs, etc.) From there, it's just a matter of fine tuning things if they annoy you (start and stop times, carrier frequency, etc.) I would set up SLV and auto-tune the motor, but that's not even critical. It just provides more torque at slow speeds.

@@Clough42 Thank you!

I have been looking at pressure sensors. Most of the ones I'm seeing are designed for compressor air tanks, so they kick on around 70PSI and off above 125 or so. I suppose that would work, since the regulated supply shouldn't exceed 90PSI. That would be a good addition. I don't know yet if I need a braking resistor. This VFD has provision for it if needed. By default, it's configured to spin down over 10 seconds. Once it's on the mill and I can mount tools properly, I'll work on tuning it for faster stops. It can apply 20% braking force with an internal transistor, and that may be enough.

@@Clough42 Where are you looking for sensors? There are a really wide variety of sensors that will output either 0-5V or 4-20ma (depending on the inputs of the VFD) over a useful range for this application. Alternatively, I think I could help source a simple Hobbs switch that would trip below X PSI to provide a really simple safety.

@@mattemther6060 I hadn't thought if using an analog input on the VFD with a voltage or current transducer. Not sure if it has the flexibility for that. I've been looking in eBay and coming up with lots of compressor tank switches that aren't really suitable.

@@Clough42 the manual should have the specs for any inputs, so knowing that would narrow down your choices. sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-switch-5000-series-productsheet.pdf Something like this would fit the bill, I think.

@@Clough42 Stainless Steel 1/8 Inches Pneumatic Adjustable Pump Pressure Switch QPM11-NC Normally Close www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXIXR60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rg5kEbMTCAQMK

Google

I'm not shutting down the power when I turn off the spindle--just at the end of a session. The spindle will stop at the end of a cut, and the power will stay on for a while--until I shut down the mill and turn out the lights. It's an ISO30 spindle. It is compatible with BT30 tooling, but has no drive lugs. It's primarily intended for high-speed operation with small tools. The infrared lamp is a good idea. I have a 4KW electric heater in the shop, but I leave it off while filming to get good sound. The infrared lamp would be quiet, but I also work pretty hard to color-match all of the light sources in the shop. I suspect an IR lamp would mess that up. But it would be worth a try.

@@Clough42 I'm sure your fans would be happy with you being slightly off color and warm rather than being color neutral but on the verge of turning blue. Do you have any info for the Mfg of the spindle or is it a pre-production secret, in which case I'll quit asking?

The 240V wiring in my shop has no neutral conductor. I also have a 120V switched output on the CNC control box, so it's handy for automatically controlling the VFD power.

@@Clough42 now that’s something you don’t see every day… no neutral. There must be a story there.

@@jameshancock not really. It's pretty common for high power outlets for welders, ovens, clothes dryers, etc. There's a ground, and two hot wires.

@@Clough42 oh I bought you meant the entire panel.

I'm curious now. What kinds of differences? I've heard Big Clive talk about ring mains and the ground pin interlock on receptacles, but that's all I know. Disclaimer: I am not a licensed electrician. I'm following the recommendations in the VFD manual, and I have done enough research to feel okay about wiring my own tools in my own shop. Sometimes I even turn off the breaker when working on a branch circuit. :)

@@Clough42 "Sometimes I even turn off the breaker when working on a branch circuit. :)" James, I knew you were my kind of guy. Praise the magic smoke!

Not in this case. All of the energy going out though one phase should be returning through the others, so the net interaction with the inductor is zero. What we're after here is the common-mode energy that's not balanced and would otherwise radiate or capacitively couple to the motor and discharge to ground through the bearings. By putting all three phases through the cores, we raise the impedance to the common mode noise only. Also, the manual is explicit that all three phases loop through the same core four times or pass through the same four cores in series.

@@Clough42 How does this relate to the way you did the ferrite rings on the Lathe motor update? I think in that one, you ran them through the rings in a different way.

Yes, I did. I've done quite a bit more study on the subject and I've learned a few things since then. I'll do a follow-up video with more info.

Actually, what he said is right. I was taught National Pipe Thread which is also correct but not technically what the threads are. Non-parallel threads are important to know as there are parallel threads such as the British parallel thread also used in the US. Technically, the NPT thread, regardless of what you call it is limited in application if you have an application with thermal cycling such as Air Conditioning. Non-parallel threads seat differently at a slight angle and when the connector heats and cools it will loosen itself over time. A parallel threat will not do that and seals face to face and not with compression at the threads.

Think of the G0704 as a casting kit for a CNC mill build.

That may well be. I'm speculating based on general knowledge. I didn't take it apart first, and I hope not to.

@@Clough42 some do some don't. the one you have looks very nice. The most amazing one I worked on ran 190,000 rpm. Thought it was going to be a screamer for the rpms but it was so quiet. Amazing piece of equipment. Great job on your videos. And thank you.

Yeah, and even the import tools vary in price and quality. Offshore producers are capable of excellent quality, but many companies outsourcing production demand a lower price, and the manufacturer is happy to oblige.