I'd love to see a short space mouse review!

It's always satisfying to use a tool to make more tools/parts for said tool. Sadly less so when you have to tear it apart first and reassemble it before making said parts . . . .

As always, I find these videos fascinating, if not occasionally daunting. Looking forward to your next installment.

James, as usual, the video was very professional and informative. Looking forward to the making of these parts and watching the mill go back to work with the new spindle.

This is awesome to see, not least because you are documenting everything so carefully and employing some great design attitudes, but also because I myself will be mounting a high speed spindle exactly as you are in the coming weeks. :). Keep up the great work

James asks, "let me know what you think......" I think you're channel is awesome! As far as the new spindle mount goes, I would consider using 1-1/2D deep helicoil inserts in all of the aluminum plates. The external thread of the helicoil in 6061 aluminum creates a shear area whose strength exceeds that of even A286 screws. Therefore they will never strip out when tightened, and will not gall with repeated assembly. Also, try and locate the helicoil as deep as possible in the aluminum, with a counter bore equal to the major diameter above it. This way you will be using longer bolts that will be more resistant to loosening due to vibration when torqued. Probably none of this is necessary to what you want to achieve, but a 3HP spindle is quite a jump from what you've been using. All the best.... Joel

Yessssss we are so close to getting the spindle mounted! Super excited to see how the g0704 performs with a "real" spindle

I jut can't wait to see the new spindle in action. Really really insterested.

really enjoy all of your machining videos. I am just now starting to learn about machining I retired last year from 32 years in Law enforcement I just recently purchased a G4003 G Lathe I am learning how to use that so much fun. My next purchase is going to be a Mill of some sort keep the vids Coming I am learning a lot thanks again

Spacemouse! Actually my daily driver is the Space Pilot Pro. I'm a sucker for all the programmable buttons. Been using a 3D controller over 20 years.

Didn’t know your in Idaho. So am I. Just bought a 758Z mill. Hoping to convert to cnc like you. You have really shown me the way. Thanks keep them coming

My son and I played a bit with the Huan Yang 2.2kw 24000 rpm spindle and VFD on the PM25 yesterday. As I mentioned, the mount was made from scrap and it's cobbled together. LinuxCNC talks to the VFD through usb and it's fantastic. Using a speed tiger 6mm end mill we were cutting a 10mm axial, 2mm radial, 4000mm/min cut and the spindle wasn't bogging at all. That's about 5 cubic inches a minute. The spindle rpm didn't sound like it changed at all. And wow, did we make a mess. With some flood coolant I'm 100% certain that same cut at full axial would be no problem, and be about 9 cubic inches/minute removal rate. From a 6mm end mill! We have a 4.5kw, 24000 rpm, BT30 Jian-Ken spindle that should arrive tomorrow and we'll first put that on the PM25 and make an enclosure to get some experience with that. Then we'll take what we learned there and apply it to a PM940. I'm wanting to get a CNC plasma table to make the cuts for the sheet metal enclosure...must...resist... Don't let anyone give you grief over rigidity. Yes, if you're wanting to machine steel or cast iron with 1" end mills then the rigidity isn't there. If you do primarily non-ferrous (aluminum and brass for sure) then it's not an issue. I do think now that flood coolant is pretty dang important at the higher RPMs. at 24000 if you round a corner that blocks the mist air flow for even a moment, that end mill can load up and snap faster than you can react. It was very hard today machining on the 1100MX with 10,000 rpm after playing with that spindle last night. Everything felt soooo slooooowwww.. That 24000 rpm spindle was throwing a stream of chips off that 6mm cutter like a stream of water, arcing up about 2' above the top of the mill. We just sat there with safety glasses on laughing like kids.

Great project. I always learn something from your videos.

Hi James, really want to see how the spindle story ends so good luck to you and hope to see the new episode soon.

Yes your videos are awesome. Amazing job

I am clearly over my head watching your work but it’s still great content. Thanks for sharing.

I just love to watch your videos, so much information in them :)

mr james...an awesome video as usual...looking for ward to seeing the results...the g704 looks like an awesome little mill. prefect foot print for me...thank you as always, for the great content.

Hi James, Some background/perspective to my comments. I am a retired industrial mathematician. I wasn't trained as a machinist. So, I look at things in my shop, perhaps, differently than would a machinist. Regardless, I have had very good luck using the technique I am about to describe. In your case, you have a center to center distance, CCD, of 2.591". The first thing I would do is compute the bolt circle diameter, BCD, (more about this later) and determine if it 'wants' to be a round number in US customary units or, possibly, in metric units. In your case, a CCD of 2.591" implies a BCD of 2.9918". Here, I think the BCD 'wants' to be 3.000". Doing this sort of analysis almost always gets me better fits than relying only on the 'actual' measurement of the CCD. I won't always know why there is a deviation between my measurement and the 'actual' distance. But, usually it is some combination of error stack-up in my measurement and manufacturing tolerances. In my shop I have the following chart that I prepared in Excel laminated and hanging on the wall. Number BCD = of Sides Factor x CCD 3 1.15470 4 1.41421 5 1.70130 6 2.00000 8 2.61313 9 2.92380 10 3.23607 12 3.86370 BCD = CCD / sin(180/n) BCD = Bolt Circle Diameter CCD = Center to Center Distance n = number of bolt holes For ease of reading, I alternate the numbered rows black, red, blue, black, red, blue, ... In your case, you have three bolt holes. The factor for three bolt holes is 1.15470. BCD = 1.15470 x 2.591" = 2.9918". If the BCD was truly supposed to be 3.000" we would expect the CCD to be 3.000" / 1.15470 = 2.598 vs. your measured 2.591". I would say that's well within the error stack-up / manufacturing tolerance for the degree of precision required in this part. I hope this helps someone in the future. Be well & Best regards, Gottfried

Simplicity in design, looks like an easy series of parts to make, can’t wait to see this in action👍. Too bad that the spindle costs more than the mill with cnc conversion. Something to put on the wish list.

I was saying ductile iron as you were speaking it. Hopefully aluminum works but plan B might absorb vibration better. Nice channel, subbed.

This is great, thanks for sharing

Where in Idaho? I grew up in Emmett about 150 years ago (well, sometimes it feels like it). I've been a machinist since 1975, finally "retiring" at the end of 2013. A great profession!

Very nice spindle James! Sacrificing the quill is going to feel like a missing limb every time you reminisce when you need it! 😱😭 🤣 No more tilting the spindle to drill a hole - forcing you to tilt the part! Best keep the old head handy!

I have built an all aluminum mill with vertical glides for the Z axis. I have found that the aluminum machines very well but you lose a lot in rigidity. (I am going to rebuild with steel 4X4" column.) Since the head mount is flat plates it would be best to use steel plate. It takes 4 times the dimension size to replace the steel and equal the strength.

On my drill press upgrade project I’m close to doing the same thing. I need to strip it down to fit and parts then partially rebuild it to fit the table to drill holes in some new parts to take it apart again and fit them. Or I was, now I have a sneaky plan . . .

Can't understand some KZfaqrs who say you don't "need" a Spacemouse. If you worked with them for a while you won't go back. On single Parts not having one might not be an issue, but inside an Assembly you are so much faster.

Great qualety content.

reminds me of fixing my lathe , i often take the part off that needs to be repaired( usually drivetrain related) only to reaasemble it to make the parts for the repair.

That thumbnail money shot. This guy knows his audience.

Wait whaaat the last video I saw from you was the VFD install you did on your lathe. It looks like you turned your life around for the better, you look healthy and strong and I'm very happy for you. The video is nice too haha

Good Show James! NONE finer!

James muy buen trabajo le sigo desde hace 2 años.

If you used mm instead of inch, you would have that done in 5 minutes flat ! :) Nice job.

I saw that spindle. While its 3hp, BT-30 and made in america its price tag is = to that of a import 9kw. "12hp" spindle. Price per performance. Im going to put one of those on my PM25. Stock R8 even with TTS is junk! I just rebuilt the bearing assembly... less then 10 days it's already crunchy and leaving wavey finishes.

Locate with dowel pins and use bolts only to fasten

You really could have made life so much easier for you if you just had pulled a This-Old-Tony and timetraveled to when you already had the new spindle mounted - and just mill the new spindle mount then. 🤷‍♂️

I'm enjoying watching your process and find your CAD explanations very good. Are you relying on the spindle mounting bolts to locate and maintain the location of the spindle or are you keying the spindle to your mounting block via the recess in the spindle?

6061 - Mechanical Properties Tensile strength: 276 MPa (40,000 PSI) Fatigue strength: 96.5 MPa (14,000 PSI) Shear strength: 207 MPa (30,000 PSI) Hardness: 95 (Brinell Scale) Machinability: 50% 7075 - Mechanical Properties Tensile strength: 503 MPa (73,100 PSI) Fatigue strength: 159 MPa (23,000 PSI) Shear strength: 331 MPa (48,000 PSI) Hardness: 150 (Brinell Scale) Machinability: 70%

This is cool.

I would have liked it more when you mentioned the next video if you had also said "tomorrow". :). I'll have to get you some video of test mount I made for a 2.2kw with stuff from the scrap pile. Based on how well it worked I don't think you'll have any problems with rigidity. Good work!

Hi! Great work. Definitely enjoying the continuing shop improvement series. Curious if the dog-point set screw hole was omitted, or I just couldn't see it? Also, a steel thread insert going into the aluminium parts seems like a sensible idea. It may also be overkill, but a bridge-shaped plate on the underside to help prevent flexing of the box section while still giving reasonable access to the underside of the head feels like a good idea, rather than just leaving it completely open.

Maybe a video on putting and setting up it together? I don't even now what steps are necessary to adjust a milling machine.... Thanks for the content!

If it was me. I'd have made the adaptor box section. This would make it much stiffer in torsion, which is this loading you apply to it when cutting in the X axis

Nice job! You could also print a portion of your design first before you put the head back on to check if your design works the way you want it. Goodluck!

Hi James: I new to your chanel and as far as I have seen it is amazing, thanks so much for sharing your path and progress with your shop and machines. One comment that I think it will improve your hability to show the details of your designs in fusion, specially in white parts, Change the "Visual Stile" to "Shaded with Visible Edges Only" option or "Control 6". I hope this helps. Also Great desition to try the space mouse, I refuse to design without it, it is just an extension of my body when designing.

The Space Mouse is the ONLY way to go with any CAD system. I got my first one 10 years ago and quickly decided that I will not design anything without it.

nice job,

I was surprised you measured from bolt to bolt rather than from center to bolt... since it's a circle. then you have the radii. Also, maybe build 2, one with draft, and send one to Clark @ windy hill foundry (utube) and have a cast one made. Then you can have some real beef to your head. And you can finish the casting on your new spindle. While Aluminum is pretty good stuff, I still give it to cast iron. BTW recently found your channel from a forum Machinist's Gazette, and it's great, you are great to watch. I like your engineering, very well thought out.

Love your work, and truly appreciate your practical approach! My only criticism would be to make edges visible when modeling - at least for the videos! Keep 'em coming!

Regarding threads in alu; if you've got room on the spindle, loctite in threaded studs into the alu and fasten the spindle using nuts and washers. Removable and strong.

It would have been fun to see you make this using only the lathe. 😛

you could also add a couple holes to the spindle, that way you could have 6 bolts holding it on rather than 4

Try and incorporate some alignment dowels. no need to worry about strength your design will far exceed any tool that can fit in the spindle. part of the design criteria for a part or assembly for a machine tool should be can it withstand a full rapid crash and not deform past the materials plastic deformation properties.

if you want to use aluminum i would use the threadsert to start with. also have you considered some tecknic clearpath servos over the steppers?

You could do a rough FEA analysis in fusion and find out at least what the likely mode of flex will be.

Hello Clough42, I watch a lot of videos, they are very good, I looked on your channel as you did the automation of the G0702 milling machine, but I didn't find it, you have videos of this mechanization of the G0702 milling machine, it would be interesting if you could disclose how you made this change in the axes X, Y, Z. Thank you

Hi James: How does the motor mount face stay registered to your new side walls, and your walls stay registered to your new base plate? I see a few other comments suggesting dowel pins. Maybe you have some other idea? Thanks for stepping us through your process.. always something to learn watching someone methodical doing that.

Do you know that you can do cut to point or face so you can link it to your z-slide cad extrusion insted of static number even add offset for clearance if needed.

Hi James, I think you're channel is absolutely awesome! What are you going to do about the stylus for the protractor scale?

No locating dowel pins, just held by friction? Seems pretty adjustable, on purpose and by accident / environment?

Thanks for a great video. What valves did you end up using? Model# please

James what about the hole for the set screw, are you going to add that feature

Hi James, I understand you want to keep the head angle option. Great! But putting the milling head back perpendicularly is time consuming. Why not integrate a worm gear into the design? Or, much simpler, a control screw to adjust the last 0.001°?

Hi James. Could you share the cad drawing of the spindle? Thanks

hi very cool

Are you going to put the set screw in the new mount if not used to tilt the head it will assist you in assembly being as you work alone...

just out of curiosity, would it be possible to add a "manual" Z handle like the original grizzly up/down handle? Or solely going the NC approach?

How far out is the center line of the spindle? I have a PM-25MV that I'm making a spacer plate for so that I can reach to the end of the table in the Y axis. It looks like it won't have as much distance from the column to the center line of your spindle, but that could just be the optics of the drawing vs the video showing your mill.

Do you think the G0704 is rigid enough for a 3 hp motor? I’ve got the G0731 which is their knee mill with a 1.5 hp motor and my mill isn’t even rigid enough to take a heavier cut. There’s more than enough power, it’s just the mill wants to shake apart with anything heavier than about 1” axial width of cut, 0.030 radial depth in steel. With a 3” face mill, about the most I can do is 0.030 depth in steel, before it starts to shake badly.

Thank you I was thinking, how to convert the castings I have so I can us the head to rotate in a way so I can cut on an angel, that as mad my choice of dimeson. I will copy that & do the meaning in my fore jaw chuck on the Lath , Shap I cadent get to by that of the shelf electronic lead screw , off you had to revert to the original plan & Fit one. but thanks for this idea . Les England. love the page , interesting , got the Bearings, yesterday for the mill shaft , I was not to shore on tapper did consider a mores 3 . yous I may go with yours & by a one you have ? thanks again , at my age it grate to hove someone ells do the Thinking . At "78" the bran Cells begin to go . . LOL {that us old farts for you }.

how often did you sigh before deciding to disassemble it lol

How much would it cost to order a proper iron casting? You could make a nice 3D printed pattern, and cut a significant part of the cost.

Very neat. Will Y travel be reduced?

Why not measure the "nose" on the z-slide rather than, or at least in addition to, measuring the bore in the head casting?

James: How will you build in tramming adjustments?

What compressor do you use to run the spindle?

am nat expert at all but i think its better to go safe and use cast iron or steel instead of aluminium .

This will be a Not -grizzly mill. Because the only “original” parts is the shell and the table :)

You should Google G0704 tramming aids. Two little aluminum blocks that mount next to the head on the right side and let you tilt the head in very small increments using set screws. That plus a spindle indicator makes setting and locking tilt and getting the head tightened again a breeze. I'll see if I can find a link and edit this. www.migration.g0704.com/Projects2.html Partway down the page

I don't know if it's just me, but I would never make a piece of a machine tool out of aluminum, it doesn't seems right Machine like a DIY CNC router which are entirely made out of aluminum are ok, but in this case I think it isn't beneficial I'm sure you've made your considerations, and since I've seen others do it like that it should all be right, but I wouldn't take the risk of having a weaker material holding a 10000+rpm spindle under load

What is the spindle manufacturer and model number?

If you use 7075 aluminum it should be stronger than the steel or cast.....

Where did you get the spindle and how much was it?

BT30 versus ISO30: did you do any thinking about the lack of drive notches in the ISO30 allowing tool slip in heavy milling? www.stepcraft.us/blog/stepcraft-blog-6/post/iso30-vs-bt30-atc-tool-holders-what-is-the-difference-15

Hi James, I’m new at milling and have recently brought a RF-30 clone. I’m in the process of converting it to cnc and would appreciate being able to email you the occasional question if you would mine. Regards, Dave from Australia

Do you by chance sell this mount now?

Are you going to use ductile iron?

Aluminum is a poor choice due to its meager vibration damping characteristics. The loss factor of grey cast iron is an order of magnitude higher.

Holding spindle like newborn...check!

Where's the dowel pins?

Take the measurements using metric. If you measured .791", chances are it's 20mm.

My engineer's gut tells me that ductile cast iron would be better than Aluminum, but I can't say I did the math to be honest.

What are your thoughts on purchasing an older CNC mill and starting from there? This is a fascinating project, but there seem to be two basics parts of a CNC mill, electronics and mechanical. An older say HAAS has most of the engineering in place. Yours is smaller to be sure. I probably am missing it, but do you use Mach3 or say linuxCNC alternative, Dennis L.

I love your videos , but I cannot stand imperial LOL

Great spindle but the machine is trash. Why you dont build your own Router?

1st like and comn

This Does no Good unless You Fix the Tooth pick that's Holding the spindle, You need to upgrade the Column.

When you buy 2 go pros bammm then you are a youtuber... Hahaha no really...