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This mix of budget tyres on the front axle speaks volumes. As does the fact the customer didn't notice the car slowing down during gear changes.

Excellent commentary-loaded with useful info!

Dave I've been fitting Apex brake components for 30+ years. Very good quality products. Highly recommended 👌

Just finished work, its 3am and at this very moment this is happening to my A5 same side as yours and same year...kudos to you mate I thoroughly enjoyed your tutorial on binding-seized calipers.I know exactly what I need to do now...awesome video Dave....much respect...your a goodun....🔥🔥

It's all labour Dave. I did a similar job on my A4 Allroad in the Autumn on 60k miles but chose to rebuild the calipers all round with new dust boots, 'o' ring seals and rubber sleeves for the sliders, and fitted new Zimmermann discs and pads. I also did the rear electronic handbrake, which funnily enough Audi don't even stock rear caliper rebuild kits. The new calipers are scary prices. Managed to find them and ship from Germany.

One of the strangest british accents but this video saved my life. Been chasing 3 years heavy vibrations on the steering wheel and seats. (the whole car overall). These vibrations were triggered few hours after the first rainy day in winter. I have been suspecting partially seized calipers on both rear and front end but never had the guts to dismantle them. After visual inspection, i can see now that due to slight rust the pins anf calipers are not retracting to the fullest and while the car is cruising the partial rubbing creates vibrations similar to sumptoms of a loose outer tie rod. It s a BMW E60. Many thanks

Some people find it difficult to believe even the simple can fail. The nature of the failure speaks to the fact that upon brake release (no pressure/ hi temp) is where the issue resides. As you clearly addressed. Cheers David 👍

Fantastic and very informative video Dave 👏

Very informative as ever, thanks Dave.

Nice one Dave! This type of dust boot is also on the early Tiguans. Water gets in and the piston corrodes. I rebuild mine. Parts are cheap and its easier to rebuild a front to compared to a rear. Need to Dremel the rusted flange. - there is no material missing - there is no groove / lip on the caliper - it's simply a push / stretch / friction fit onto the machined flange. I use a section of 68mm plastic down pipe with a split down its length. You can then use this as a press / tap the new boot on to the calliper....simples. Bit of rubber grease inside the boot and piston and jobs a good un! Totally agree with you about the aluminium oxide built up on the inner face of aluminium calipers. Yes they come out but don't go back in when pressure is removed - brakes then bind. Again I have done the same as you and popped the piston out and cleaned the oxide off - and the caliper then retracts as it should. Sorry big fan of copper grease - bought a tub of ceramic grease - total and utter rubbish - expensive and washes off in a day and a waste of time. Good quality Copper grease (with high copper content) stays the course far better in my opinion.

Great video Dave i to have a similar situation with my Mercedes c220 when i stop and press hard on the break paddle it holds and let’s me take my foot off the break,but let’s say i get home i can smell the burning breaks 👏👍

Very thoroughly explained indeed Dave, these are all things that I don’t much look at but love to know about. Thank you sir 🙏🙏👍

Hi, Dave. Another great video. Thanks for sharing!

Hi Dave, thank you for your video! We had seized calipers after brakepad replacement several times in our shop too... I use to lift up the boot for inspection before pushing the piston back, but sometimes its hard to spot. If in doubt, best to replace the caliper of course.

Another top video Dave, thanks.

Great video Dave , explains plenty for punters to understand how our job is , had a Toyota yaris last week , slipping clutch , biting really high , stinking clutch , put new ac delco 3 piece kit in it , drove it round the block , all good , 2 days later punter rang me saying smelling again , went for the car , backed it off her drive , noticed a slight grab when reversing the car , drove it 4 miles , brake caliper locked on ,which will have killed the original clutch I put the car on the ramp, wheel tight , took caliper off , pushed back ok , backwards and forwards about 10 times , new pads , still grabbing , would push back so easily, so a new caliper for 45 quid , job done , obviously with ceramic grease as we guys do , all bled up , I was nice to her , no labour , just parts cost , then 5 days later , it needed a battery 😂😂😂😂👍👍, went to her house , new battery fron tps , threw the crappy lion battery in the scrap battery recycling pile , cheers Dave 👍👍

Hi Dave,just out of interest take the rubber bungs out of the two holes where the slider pins go through, I suspect there will be a huge crust of aluminium corrosion under the rubber and if you clean that out the slider pins run through very easily, not disputing what your saying about the calliper being past it, but it will contribute to the brake holding on👍

best way just if in doubt just change it . ive got a old caliper cut in half to show people who they work and wot goes wrong

Great video, I have that exact hidden problem. Thank you very much 👍

I have the same problem with one wheel an Audi a5 2013 …. New discs, new pads and even now a new caliper on the wheel that gets hot and discs.. still the same problem so got a new flex hose and still the same problem.

Great video. Great content. 💯👍💯👍💯👍💯

Great job and explanation Dave. Are we looking forward to the F1 launches soon.

Top channel fella

I think it was Chrysler that came with phenolic pistons and too little wall clearance. Resulting with the same situation.

See the rubber clip is that behind every rubber seal? Great content

I’m having similar issues on the front driver side but the caliper has been change twice with all new components.

Nice video Dave. Poor enough design by the VAG group. I have had to change a couple of rear callipers seems to be regular enough from what I hear but no front to change yet 🤞.

Great videos mate 💯 I’m having a problem with my 2013 VW CC my brake pedal is sinking to the floor when the engine is on it’s like you have to pump the brakes to get the brake pedal hard,iv tested the servo booster and that’s fine ,so I was thinking it could be the master cylinder,put iv heard that a seized/stiff calliper piston could be the problem on my brakes, any information would be appreciated

Happening to me right now. 😭

Happens a lot that Dave doesn’t it?…

Excellent video yet again, but I would like you to wear some nitrile gloves. Look after yourself.